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May 10, 2017, 05:13 PM
Registered User
Hey Dave, Could you send me some semi detailed pictures of your rigging on the whirlwind. Also what is your opinion on drilling the wood blocks glued under the deck for the stays and adding a stainless nut and bolt. The screws into the wood seem to do the job. But i have little faith in real wind. I am derigging the boat as we speak and will be fairing the bottom over the weekend. Then she will be getting awl grip on the bottom. A vinyl wrap above the waterline and possibly laminate flooring on the deck .
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May 11, 2017, 10:30 AM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
I can, but my boat is in the same condition as yours at the moment. What details do you need? My boat has a very tradition rig with Fisher fittings. The mast is built up wood. The same basic rig setup as my A class, 12 meter, Frer, ...
And I would think that thru bolting would not be a problem. The wood blocks are most likely simple ply pieces bonded to the underside of the deck. I've had the same thought, especially when several of the tiny brass screws holding the deck fittings down were stripped. Is your deck the original molded glass version with the three hatches?
I'm off to our monthly club meeting tonight, but can get pics for you tomorrow and the weekend.

Dave
May 11, 2017, 10:46 AM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
Had to dig a bit, but here is a scan of the original Vanguard instructions. It has been posted before in one of the J threads.

Dave
May 11, 2017, 12:13 PM
Registered User
Yes it is the original glass deck. The deck and hull are surprisingly robust. No spider cracks ect... But yes the brass hardware is less than ideal. The standing rigging is all the same style turnbuckle as my IOM. I am going to replace them with something a little more home depo-ish. It is a huge pain to rebuild the standing rigging on these boats when you have to roll them outside to get anything done
May 11, 2017, 03:08 PM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
I laughed when I read your comment about going outside to work on the rigging. I can't stand up the rig on my three biggest boats in may basement workshop, and I have more than average height there. In my garage, I have to aim for an empty space between roof trusses. Lots of the good floor space already has stuff stored above, so it is a trick.
During the summer, I keep my boat laying on it's side on a wheeled cart so I can roll it out, then pick it up and go sailing. I'm very fortunate to have a nice lake in my backyard. One of the many reasons we built a house where we did. But I've been thinking of a cart that holds the boat bow down, and hoping that lowers the mast head enough to clear the overhead door.


Dave
May 11, 2017, 08:39 PM
Thomas Armstrong
Quote:
Originally Posted by boater_dave
Had to dig a bit, but here is a scan of the original Vanguard instructions. It has been posted before in one of the J threads.

Dave
Boater Dave: was already available here http://www.allradiosailboats.com/des...guardWhirlwind
Just keen on saving people time....
May 12, 2017, 07:22 PM
Registered User
Well being that I had the booklet before I picked up the boat..... It does not have the info I needed. This boat has a double spreader rig that is mangled I am going to have to redo the whole mast. Boaterdave and I have different mast setups. Boaterdave I also live on a 40 acre lake. I have welded a micro hitch to my daughters RZR 170 and use it to tow a lawn cart I have retrofitted into a IOM trailer down to the lake. My house sits high on a hill and its a pain in the a$$ to walk the rigged boats down. As far as ceiling height you have got me beat. My ceiling is sheetrocked in the garage and I only have about 10ft to the floor boards in the unfinished part of my basement. Enough for an IOM but this boat is a monster. Getting ready to go buy a spool of cable and new deck hardware. Are you using general IOM style turnbuckles?
May 12, 2017, 08:10 PM
Registered User
Dick L.'s Avatar
Point of interest for 12 meter owners ( and wishing to be an owner) "MeterFest" regatta is set to take place in Newport, Rhode Island June9 thru June 11 and will feature 6, 8, and 2.4 Meter classes as well as a series of regattas culminating in a 2019 12 meter world championships in Newport as part of New York Yacht Club's 175th anniversary celebration. In 2001 38 twelve meters gathered in Cowes, England. Organizeres are hoping for more for this series "Road To The Worlds".

I envy those who are able to attend this very cool regatta series



More info at METREFEST.COM forboth regatta events.
Last edited by Dick L.; May 13, 2017 at 03:53 PM.
May 13, 2017, 03:10 PM
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SailingJunkie's Avatar
It's an hour and a half from my house.
May 13, 2017, 04:02 PM
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Dick L.'s Avatar
Enjoy yourself and keep your pants dry.

Signed: "envious"
May 15, 2017, 11:43 AM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by broke1gtsi
.. Are you using general IOM style turnbuckles?
My boat came with the larger size of Fisher brass units. The rig has a single spreader, with one main side stay and one lower, per side. I used the bigger plastic coated stainless downrigger cable for rigging. Model Yacht Fittings makes a nice version of the vintage Fisher parts. Also used some bigger braided para-cord for sheets because it came in colors.

Dave

Model Yacht Fittings
http://www.modelyachtfittings.com/Pa...RNBUCKLES.aspx
May 15, 2017, 05:23 PM
Registered User
Would you happen to know the oztq of steering servo needed to hold this big boat on course?? The boat has a dinosaur of a steering servo in it. Has to be early 80's I intend to use all HV servos in this boat. Separate jib and main winches as well. I need to email the sail maker for a quote but first I designed a new jib in solidworks and my buddy is cutting it on his plotter for me to sew. We will see how that goes I am no sail designer but do have a solid grip on full scale sail repair as I have sewn panels into my sails in the past. I will float the boat for the first time tonight and make sure she is on her lines. I have a weird feeling this boat may have never been used Or very little. One more question while rambling on..... The lead shot is pretty rusty and loose. My plan is to dig as much out as i can and replace it with new then pour wast system epoxy into it. I dont need removable ballast Does this sound about right new to this full keel rc boat stuff
May 16, 2017, 12:45 PM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
My boat had a basic Futaba servo for the rudder. I may upgrade to a higher torque version, but you don't need too much. Just make sure the rudder swings free.
For the ballast, canning wax works well to secure pellets and still be removable.

Dave

PS: do you still need/want pictures? Sounded like most questions got answered but I don't want to leave you hanging either.
May 20, 2017, 01:53 PM
Registered User
Dave its kind of on the back burner at this second. I Import Landrovers from all over the world for a living. These british rust buckets have been taking up most of my time this month. I have my cad drawing for my radial sails Just need to get them cut out an sewn. The boat has been stuck in a barn for some time I am cutting out the radio deck to get the ballast cleaned up and the hull cleaned up on the inside Mice and what not. I will be getting new standing wire this week. I feel once i get the mast up and secure I am almost on the finish line


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