Has anyone ever used Sadolin PV67 as a finishing medium with glass cloth (instead of using epoxy)?

I have not used Sadolin PV67, but I have used a great deal of Minwax oil based urethane for applying 3/4 oz. fiberglass cloth over balsa wood as a finish medium, works great and easy to apply.

Bob

Thanks Bob. I am building a big SR 71 (https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-12-Scale-SR71) and one of my clubmates said that he uses Sadolin P67 instead of epoxy. It certainly seems easier to use and dries much quicker. I was looking for a second opinion on it. Looking through this forum, there is lots of water based PU but it doesn't go well with balsa.

Ian

A while back I saw a video of a product called Skinny Dip, haven't heard anymore about it since though, has any body tried it, and if so what were the results? It was a brush-on product that left a fairly durable finish for painting.

bhady

"Sadolin PV67 Heavy Duty Varnish is a two-pack varnish"

Sounds like it is still a product similar to epoxy if you need to mix two components. In my book it is hard to beat epoxy for this application. With that said, some of the pattern guys that still build have been using silkspan with lacquer. Glass cloth could be substituted for the silkspan. Lacquer from the big box store can be used. I did a test on lacquer over cloth and it performed just fine.

Ken

EDIT: RE reading the Sadolin product info. It IS catalyzed lacquer.

Is there a problem with using epoxy?

There is no problem using epoxy from my standpoint, it is just much easier to use Minwax oil based single component urethane as the matrix to attach the glass to the surface. There is no mixing, no pot life to think about and no waste, it is very light, it permanently seals the balsa and kills the swell back from showing through the topcoat. That is about the most you can ask for from a single ply of 1/2 oz. or 3/4 oz. glass. Strength is not in question here because there is no strength worth mentioning in a cosmetic ply like what we are talking about.

Bob

For me, the main attraction of something like the Sadolin product is the relatively short drying time. I don't mind mixing the two components, it's the waiting at least 24 hours before I can handle the parts again that bugs me.

Originally Posted by Ianda217

For me, the main attraction of something like the Sadolin product is the relatively short drying time. I don't mind mixing the two components, it's the waiting at least 24 hours before I can handle the parts again that bugs me.

By the way, I looked at your project of the SR-71. Very cool!

Bob

I always have laminating resin around for layups and to make up paste adhisive so it just makes sense for me to grab what I already have. Most systems have multiple hardeners avalilable. In most cases I can lay down one side and after a couple hours it's ready to trim and lay down another sheet of glass. As always many ways will work.

Bob,

Thanks. I'm really enjoying the build although when the actual building is done, it's going to need more sanding than anything I've ever done before. I'm hoping for lots of dry weather so that I can sand it outside.

Exf3bguy,

Most of my previous models have been built up structures - WW1 and the like so I haven't done a lot of glassing. I'm looking for something that will make the job quicker and/or easier but will give similar results. One problem over here is that our average summer temperature is less than 65 degrees which does not make for rapid curing.

Rather than the Sad-olin Floor varnish .. Try some Eze Kote from Tower hobbies. for glassing your model
Much better than Miniwax polyU.
Water soluable :_) thicker, applies Much easier, dries faster /harder and is sandable within the hour .
Sans the Weight , Sticky Mess or toxicity issues with using Epoxy. Once tried, few revert to the Goo.
Yes not quite as strong, being only 90% of epoxy on glass cloth.... 10% seems a Very small price tough :-)

Originally Posted by exf3bguy

I always have laminating resin around for layups and to make up paste adhisive so it just makes sense for me to grab what I already have. Most systems have multiple hardeners avalilable. In most cases I can lay down one side and after a couple hours it's ready to trim and lay down another sheet of glass. As always many ways will work.

Yes sir, as always, you are a wise man my friend.

Bob

Originally Posted by Bare

Rather than the Sad-olin Floor varnish .. Try some Eze Kote from Tower hobbies. for glassing your model
Much better than Miniwax polyU.
Water soluable :_) thicker, applies Much easier, dries faster /harder and is sandable within the hour .
Sans the Weight , Sticky Mess or toxicity issues with using Epoxy. Once tried, few revert to the Goo.
Yes not quite as strong, being only 90% of epoxy on glass cloth.... 10% seems a Very small price tough :-)

I just get a good laugh when guys talk about strength in the same sentence with the utilization of a single ply of 1/2 oz. or 3/4 oz. glass applied as a surface prep media only. I mean you just have to wonder about their credibility on any level after that. Now if we are talking about a structural layup with multiple plies, or even a single heavier structural ply, then an epoxy matrix is the only way to go! At least in my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions...

Bob

Bare,

I've used Eze Kote on an Avro Vulcan that I built a couple of years ago. It was certainly easier than epoxy but, because of the water base, it warped some of the sheeting on the wing. As a result, I'm trying to avoid water based finishes.