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May 07, 2017, 08:37 AM
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Hello,

Quote:
Originally Posted by mnemennth
Glad you actually got BWHOOPs and not boxes with rocks in them.

Throttle response is nonexistent due to the fact Altitude Hold is always on and cannot be turned off.

Auto Land/TO is more headache than its worth. It's too easily confused if it sucks up to a wall or ceiling; it tries to stick there and then loses its mind and falls to the ground, where you have to recal before it'll fly right. After that, it can't figure out where to land.

If you have the programming dongle from an HS1177 family camera, you can hack the end off that and solder in 0.100" pin header, then use it for both purposes.

mnem
I am not my pants. No, I am not your pants either.
Yep, there is no throttle punch available for us on stock fw but quad *is* powerful, just try loops, it jumps up and loops so fast and so nimble.

At the moment I'm having fun confusing stock fw with Headless Mode button and Take Off/Land button !
I would have lost bwhoop already if it isn't for Emergency Stop button tho Once it catapulted over 20m up in the air !

--
Mozz
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May 07, 2017, 11:05 AM
AMA 1033652
mnemennth's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mozgy
Hello,
Yep, there is no throttle punch available for us on stock fw but quad *is* powerful, just try loops, it jumps up and loops so fast and so nimble.

At the moment I'm having fun confusing stock fw with Headless Mode button and Take Off/Land button !
I would have lost bwhoop already if it isn't for Emergency Stop button tho Once it catapulted over 20m up in the air !
--
Mozz




If you're still flying the stock TX, do this mod; it swaps the ALL STOP and Headless/RTH mode buttons.



Labeling the TX and extending the sticks this way also helps a lot... makes the stock TX actually flyable.

You can see the full mod gallery here; I haven't finished the How-To yet.

This mod is based on the similar E010 TX mod in my Blog.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirDomsen
Well the losis don't melt but the voltage drop is way too large. Usually I take 2mm gold plugs, but they're a bit long for a BHoop/H8mini
If you're having voltage drop issues, it's probably due to one side of the connection being a cheap knock-off part. It is almost an epidemic... cheap China-direct batteries (and even most name brands take their turn trying to cheap out) almost NEVER come with genuine MOLEX crimps inside, even if they use genuine MOLEX housings. These nearly universally have issues with poor contact tension and self-alignment.

I learned the hard way to build all my own (BOTH SIDES) out of parts ordered direct from DigiKey. I consider the connectors to be a "consumable supply" anyways, just like bearings in a motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefromgermany
For connectors exceeding 5-6A on micro builds I use 1223 Micro Deans. Although ancient, still hard to beat in weight v.s. current/cycles.
The few brushed low current 1s and 2s micros I have left just get new Losi Micro-T aka Walkera Mini aka Molex 51005/51006 crimped on periodically.
I used to swear by Deans', now I swear at them. After they caused a crash that cost me a critical race AND totaled my primary car for too much of the season for me to recover my points standing, I will NEVER use another un-shrouded connector again. The thing Deans' have in their favor is that even the cheap knock-offs perform almost as well as the original; this is not true of XT series and HXT connectors.

I use XT-30s on anything bigger than a Whoop up to 150mm or so. But I'm a "Shortest, fattest pipes possible" fanatic; I feel that is the one area you should ALWAYS spend the weight on first.


mnem
Also, your fly is down.
Last edited by mnemennth; May 07, 2017 at 11:18 AM.
May 07, 2017, 11:19 AM
Wicked, tricksy, false!
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Regarding Deans: you mentioned the biggest drawback for sure. Unfortunately I still wasn't able to find any similar specced connector in this weight class.

+1 also for the XT30 on (again in my case, ymmv)
brushless mini builds.
I've had my share of fights back the time when JST RCY were the preferred and most recommended connectors on these upcoming high performance 130/150mm builds, and I was one of the first who argued against them, proposing new (back then) XT30 instead ....

BTW, do you know any source for gold plated micro JST?
I've seen them a few years ago, and unfortunately didn't' pay too much attention as I had no need for these.

Also I'm not sure if these were 1.5 or 2mm pitched.

These perhaps COULD be a lighter alternative for nano builds.
Last edited by mikefromgermany; May 07, 2017 at 11:31 AM.
May 07, 2017, 11:46 AM
Registered User
Arthure's Avatar
Yesterday was the change over the batteries to XT30 day. Only had 10 pairs on hand so the RS90 Torrent batteries got the call. 3 800 2s, 3 450 2s, 3 450 3s and one 800 3s just for fun. Plus the RS90 ... the other (Mini Owl now Torrent DIY) was XT30 already.

Using Losi and MCPX style on the brushed quads. Only using MCPX style still as I'm repurposing MCPX batteries on the E010.
May 07, 2017, 12:07 PM
AMA 1033652
mnemennth's Avatar
You mean the JST/mCPX/PowerWhoop 2mm pitch square pin connector? That's a JST-PH.

The 1.25mm pitch flat-pin connector usually used on eFlite micros like the Vapor and the orignal Blade NanoQX is a JST-SH.

The 1.25mm pitch flat-pin connector used for the programming port on the BWHOOP is a MOLEX PicoBlade.

The red JST-RCY are a great connector for their intended 1-3A current range; genuine connectors will handle 200% overload without so much as a whimper. Again, cheap knock-offs have severe contact tension and self-alignment issues. But they are so close to the weight of the XT-30 there's no point, IMO.

Gold-plating these connectors isn't exactly a good idea; I know the MOLEX 5100x series are heavily tin-plated on purpose, as this "malleable" coating combined with the self-wiping contacts actually yields a lower contact resistance due to minute metal displacement than is possible with a few microns of gold electroplate.

Gold-plating is really only a positive thing in small-signal applications where something is plugged in and left that way for long periods; like computer memory card slots and processor pins. It prevents contact resistance in low-current signals caused by corrosion due to sitting for long periods.

It really isn't all that great for high-current applications like battery power, especially ones that get lots of plug-unplug cycles. For these applications, tin-plating is better.


mnem
A fool and his money are SOME PARTY!
May 07, 2017, 12:56 PM
Registered User

Found a use for the exercise machines in the park...


Stock Bwhoop + Silverware.

7 May 2017 (3 min 58 sec)
May 07, 2017, 04:54 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnemennth

The 1.25mm pitch flat-pin connector used for the programming port on the BWHOOP is a MOLEX PicoBlade.
A 3 pin one, all I have is 4 pin Picoblade(s). This doesn't look like a real picoblade, wonder if it will fit.
May 07, 2017, 05:15 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuartambient
A 3 pin one, all I have is 4 pin Picoblade(s). This doesn't look like a real picoblade, wonder if it will fit.
I don't know if it is "a real picoblade" but that is what I am using for programming the BWhoop and the E011.

I bent the V+ pin over to make sure that it does not get plugged in wrong on the BWhoop.

The E011 does not have a programming port on the board so I removed the 3 pin camera port from the BWhoop and soldered it onto my E011.

Note: I am using the BWhoop firmware on the E011. I just replace the hardware.h file with the file from the E011.

I just re-read your post, the 4 pin should work on the BWhoop just don't hook up V+.
Last edited by Ardy; May 07, 2017 at 05:28 PM. Reason: Opened my eyes.
May 07, 2017, 05:23 PM
Registered User
Ok, that is good to know. The hood on the picos I have are shaped a bit different. If it works that is all that matters.

I have no idea which pin the V+ one refers to.
May 07, 2017, 05:37 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuartambient
Ok, that is good to know. The hood on the picos I have are shaped a bit different. If it works that is all that matters.

I have no idea which pin the V+ one refers to.
Check the picture at the bottom of this post: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...82&postcount=1
Shows the pin out for the program port.
May 07, 2017, 06:03 PM
Registered User
Ok, apologies as I haven't been reading as closely to date, was waiting for arrival. When I popped open the cover yesterday I saw the SX port and without looking with some magnification, I thought that was the programming port.

Ok, I'm straight on that now. I was under the impression though that the board had everything on one side. I'm almost sure that was mentioned early on and how it would be easier, if wanting to mount it flat on another frame. Maybe I misinterpreted.

The programming port location makes it slightly trickier plugging in.
May 07, 2017, 06:08 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by mozgy
Hello,
Yep, there is no throttle punch available for us on stock fw but quad *is* powerful, just try loops, it jumps up and loops so fast and so nimble.

At the moment I'm having fun confusing stock fw with Headless Mode button and Take Off/Land button !
I would have lost bwhoop already if it isn't for Emergency Stop button tho Once it catapulted over 20m up in the air !

--
Mozz
I pressed the stop button instead of rates ... They are kind of close together
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuartambient
A 3 pin one, all I have is 4 pin Picoblade(s). This doesn't look like a real picoblade, wonder if it will fit.
They are 4 pin on the board, and that 3 pin does fit but it can be plugged incorrectly in the 4 pin connector.

The 3 pin can be used on top for cam power.
May 07, 2017, 07:52 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverxxx
They are 4 pin on the board, and that 3 pin does fit but it can be plugged incorrectly in the 4 pin connector.

The 3 pin can be used on top for cam power.
Ok, I'll be careful regardless , but what about being able to get the plug in without removing FC from frame?
May 07, 2017, 09:28 PM
Registered User
Throwing this out there for anyone looking for 3-blade 0.8mm hole 31mm props.

I fitted my new stock B03 with these 31mm 3-blade Kingkong Tiny6 propellers (http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pairs-31mm...-/252921026410) and they fly extremely well. No problems with prop inbalance. I recall a few folks mentioning they received unusable unbalanced props in one of the other threads.

I got a set of yellow ones and they look fine in the bag. I got them for around $4.50 to the US but this seller has bumped up the price slightly since then. They came in a padded envelope after 2.5 weeks.
May 07, 2017, 10:26 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuartambient
Ok, I'll be careful regardless , but what about being able to get the plug in without removing FC from frame?
I press mine in with a ballpoint pen


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