Blohm & Voss Ha-137 1/10 scale 44" electric - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Apr 28, 2017, 01:14 AM
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Wing Panels, Ailerons & Flaps


Starting with the Left outboard wing panel, pin a 1/4 scrap to the plans as shown for washout. Pin the left leading edge-1, the left front spar, and the left rear spar to the plans. Add ribs R-4a thru R-12. Cut four 1/4 sq x 1/2 hardwood blocks. Align LS-3 in place with wax paper over the top, then LS-2, and LS-1. Insert the four hardwood blocks and glue all.

After laminating the wing tip blocks, glue to rib R-12 flush with the bottom edge. Now add the 1/16 leading edge sheeting. Unpin all from the plans, add the bottom leading edge sheeting, and sand all to shape. Complete the right panel the same.

Even tho I don't have proper photos, I will detail the build of the ailerons and flaps.

INBOARD FLAP
Pin the 1/16 ply RF to the plans. Position LF-1. Insert F-1, and align with the F-1 template. Using the plan drawing, bend the 1/16 wire flap torque rod. Align over RF and F-1,epoxy in place. Add ribs F-2 and F-3, then insert FF. Make the opposite side the same.

OUTBOARD FLAP
Cut a piece of Sullivan yellow "inner"plastic tube, or 1/16 ID brass or aluminum tube to length shown. Pin the 1/16 ply LFF to the plans. Position LF-2. With your choice of tube in place, add ribs F-4, F-5, and F-6.Now epoxy the tube. Make the opposite side the same.

AILERONS
Pin 1/16 ply base LAB to the plans. Glue part RR in place. Pin 1/8 balsa A-12 in place.Glue leading edge LALE and all ribs A-6,7,8,9,10, and 11.

Sand the flap and aileron leading edges to shape shown on the plans
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Apr 29, 2017, 11:08 PM
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Wing Assembly


Hinge the inboard flaps to the center section. Hinge the outboard flaps and ailerons to the outboard wing panels. I used medium size pinned hinges for the flaps and small pinned hinges for the ailerons. * The flaps are BOTTOM hinged, and the flaps areTOP hinged *.

Slide the 1/16 torque rod into the tube and continue until the wing rib slots fit the tabs on the root rib. Mark where the torque rod passes across the rear bottom of the gear fairing and sand a slot at this location for the rod to retract flush.

Lowering and raising the inboard flap should lower and raise the outboard flap in unison. If there is any binding, tweak the torque rod until smooth. When everything is aligned and working properly, glue the outboard wing panel to the center section.
May 01, 2017, 11:32 PM
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Fin & Rudder


Cut four 1/16 X 1/8 x 13" balsa strips. Laminate around the rudder template to make R-4. When the laminations are dry (overnight) cut notches and trim to fit
R-1.

Pin fin 1/16 sheet FF in position followed by parts F-1 thru F-3 over the plans. Add F-4 the 1/8 lite-ply hinge extension.

Trim and fit 1/8 x 1/4 ribs dwith 1/16 shims under all. Add parts R-2, R-3 and R-5.

Section 1/8 alum tube as shown. Tack glue all, using 3/32 wire to align. Remove all from plans, lace and re-glue securely.

Now 1/16 sheet the left side of the fin. Sand all to shape, tapering the rudder from R-1 to the 1/8 trailing edge.

Insert the 3/32 hinge pin wire and check for free movement. Install the left side rudder horn.
May 01, 2017, 11:41 PM
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Stabilizer & Elevtors


Cut eight 1/16 x 1/8/x/18" balsa strips. Laminate around the elevator templates, make a left and right. Let dry over night.

Continue the build same as the fin and rudder using the same tube and bind technique. Sand all to shape, and check smooth movement. Install right side elevator horn.
May 02, 2017, 03:22 PM
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aichi type 99


Hello Bill,
Sorry to slide off subject but, I was looking at your aichi val kit for sale at Manzano laser works and I was wondering if you could tell me the fuselage
length. The reason I asked is a have a pair of floats lying around and would like to use them for my own version of a Aichi E13A

thanks much !
Mark
May 02, 2017, 09:06 PM
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Mark, it appears that the "Jake" has the same length fuselage as the "Val". The extended fin of the val was removed, and the canopy extended to the rear to make a 3 place aircraft. Should make a pretty scale conversion.

My Val is 24" from the cowl to the rear cone. The cowl is 3 1/4 diameter, and the wingspan is 36"

B. Bradley
May 02, 2017, 09:49 PM
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thanks Bill,
I think it will work great

Mark
May 02, 2017, 10:31 PM
What ground?!
FokkerAce163's Avatar
This looks great already! Gull wing designs are always really neat, whats the wingspan going to be on this?
May 03, 2017, 12:19 AM
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Ace, 1/10 scale, 44" span

B. Bradley
May 03, 2017, 05:08 PM
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Fuselage


Start the fuselage by laying the 28" lite-ply Battery Floor flat on wax paper. Install all lite-ply formers M-1b, M-2 thru M-7. Position and glue vertical and square. Insert the lite-ply Servo Tray between M-4 and M-5 and glue.

Position the two top 1/8 x 1/4 side rails and glue. Caution here, the side rails extend beyond M-1b to the very front of the Battery Tray. A square will be handy here. Crack the side rails at M-4. End the rails at T-5, then add 1/8 sq to M-7. Add T-7a to M-7 aligning with the top rear keel. Insert the Top Rear Alignment Keel, and the 1/8 stringers to the rear top.

Position the Lift Off Section Base on the fuselage using wax paper to separate from the Side Rails and rear formers T-5 and T-5a. Add formers T-1a, T-1b, T-2, T-3, and T-4 all vertical except T-5a that aligns to T-5. Install the Top Front Alignment Keel, and Headrest Keel.

With the Keels in place, and all square, start 1/8 sq stringers from the bottom up.After installing the first two stringers on each side, position and glue former T-3a aligned with Top Front Keel end. Finish the stringers leaving the gap between T-3a and T-4. Holes are included for 1/4" diameter magnets that can be installed now. The headrest part HR and the scrap balsa sides sanded to shape finish the Lift Off Section.
May 08, 2017, 11:41 PM
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More Fuselage


Laminate formers F-1 front and F-1 rear. F-1 rear has the alignment pin hole for the Lift Off section. Also laminate two BB-1a's to be used later.

Test fit the laminated F-1's to the Battery Floor tabs, and the extended side rails. Place the F-1's face down on wax paper. Apply epoxy to the tabs and side rails. Lower the fuselage into the slots vertical, add weights, check for square and let cure.

Use short keel part BFK, and slots in the Battery Floor for alignment, install BB-1a. Continue down the bottom wiwth B-1b, B-2, B-3, B-4, B-4a,B-5, B-6, and B-7a . Add short 1/8 stringers under the nose and between B-4a to B-7a in the rear.

Laminate 1/8 lite-ply partsHD-1 and HD-2 using the holes to align. They are staggered. Epoxy into the slots in B-4a and B-4. This plate will be threaded later for the nylon hold down screws.

Laminate 1/4 balsa parts E and F, and 1/8 part G, using the hole to align. Glue this completed part to the back of M-7, centered on the bottom fuselage.

Laminate the two 3/16 balsa parts D together. Glue to the back of former M-7 and level with the 1/8 stringer. Make a temporary "prop" for the aft end. Install a 1/4 spacer on top. DO NOT GLUE "prop" or spacer. The spacer is for the stabilizer that will be installed later. Check the plans for this set-up.

Lamminate the 3/16 balsa parts C, B, aand 1/8 part A. Align on top of the spacer,glue to M-7, but NOT to the spacer.

Now remove the "PROP" and slide the fin/rudder into place. Check alignment with the slots in R-3 and M-7. DO NOT GLUE. When satisfied with the fit, trim and sand the blocks to the fuselage shape.
May 11, 2017, 11:09 PM
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Tail Wheel


Start with 1/16 wire. Bend to shape as shown on plans. Fit the tail wheel to the axel with washers as needed to center the wheel.

Parts TW-1 are 1/16 ply lightly grooved to fit over the wire. Laminate with epoxy.

Continue with 1/8 balsa balsa parts TW-2 and TW-3 to each side. Glue the 1/16 ply outside TW-4 in place The inside TW-4 is glued after shimming with washer spacers.

The wheel is held in place when TW-4 is added. Sand all to shape.

The finished tail wheel assembly can be insstalled using your favorite method of pushrod attachment.
May 13, 2017, 12:08 AM
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Plastic Cowl


Formers and keels were cut to the cowl shape. The inside was stuffed with scrap balsa and rough sanded to shape. A coating of Bondo was applied and final sanded and smoothed. This form was sent to Mr. Sparks at Parkflyer Plastics where he did his "magic" and delivered a plastic cowl with interior supports around the open nose.

The plastic cowl is assembled from four parts. Glue the left and right large sides together. Glue the left and right small cone parts together. This small cone is the nose stiffener and installs from the back and aligns with the seams in the large part. Glue in place. I used Model Master Liquid Cement for plastic models.

The exhaust stacks are made from 3 laminations of 1/8 lite-ply in two parts, EX-1 and EX-2. The EX-1's are horizontal, and the EX-2's glue to the ends vertical. Make a left and right set. Sand all edges rounded. I painted with Krylon ruddy brown primer.

I positioned and marked the tabs on the stacks in the recess of the cowl. Slots were cut for the tabs and the exhaust stacks were epoxied from the inside.

Check the cowl with your motor for spacing. You should have 1/16" between the spinner back plate and the front edge of the cowl.

The 1/8 ply C-1 is epoxied into the back of the cowl flush with the edge. C-1 has provisions for three 1/4 magnets, matching F-1, and two 1/8 alignment pins matching the holes in F-1. I painted the inside cowl and the exterior exhaust slots flat black.

Install the magnets and the alignment pins, and check fit to F-1. The recessed exhaust slots should align with the fuselage slots.
May 14, 2017, 10:29 AM
Manzano Laser Works
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Hi Bill,

I was just reading back thru this thread and noticed your torque rod solution for the flaps - ingenious!

You are really bringing Herr Hamburger's classic design to life with this model!

-=Tom=-
May 15, 2017, 10:14 PM
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B. Bradley's Avatar
Thanks Tom.
I think I should mention here that about 20 years ago I had occasion to purchase a pack of copper coated 1/16 steel welding rod. There were 50, 36" rods in the pack. They were very cheap. I think I still have 25 . They don't rust because they are copper coated. They do solder extremely well. They are not "springy" , but will take a great "Z" bend, and are just very handy to have in your shop.

I used this wire for the flap torque rods because it is so easy to work with.

B. Bradley


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