G-clone 2m, easy plank - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Apr 21, 2017, 02:02 PM
Registered User
Build Log

G-clone 2m, easy plank

Here’s a way to produce prototype wings that is both: economical in terms of time and material costs and capable of producing relatively complex shapes.

This construction will demonstrate the technique and give a good flying ship. Electric power and/or slope are practical.

This ship is inspired by threads showing the Minirock and Gizmo. It’s no substitute in terms of quality or performance for the molded or vacuum bagged machines. It does offer a chance for those with less resources, skills or time on a waiting list, to get a taste of some unique designs.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Apr 21, 2017, 05:45 PM
Pro Hoarder
turbonut's Avatar
It looks great! any video from flying yet?
Apr 21, 2017, 07:36 PM
Registered User
Video in processing. Post to come.
Apr 22, 2017, 03:10 PM
Registered User
G-clone details:
• materials - fan fold foam, coroplast, plywood (fire wall) only.
• span - 80”
• length - 28”
• motor - 32mmXXXXX
• prop - 9x6 folder (Radian)
• area - about 1280 sq. in.
• battery - 3 S 2200 mha
• weight - 53 oz. all up.

List of materials:
• 24” x 48” fan fold foam (4 sheets)
Coroplast 6mm 12” x 24” (1 sheet)
1/4 plywood - 5 ply (2 x 6”)
new film 1.9 mil
cross hatch fiber tape
3M mending tape
packing tape
motor - 3525(?) 1130kvp
9 x 6 radian prop/spinner
hot melt glue
white Gorilla glue
30 min. epoxy
standard servos (2)
servo extensions.
Apr 22, 2017, 04:18 PM
Registered User
EdSoars's Avatar
Very interesting! How about a side view to see the fin layout?
Apr 22, 2017, 05:22 PM
skumgummi dave
low down and dry:

Such a cool plank, and fan fold to boot. Tell us more...

Apr 22, 2017, 05:54 PM
Registered User
Layout and cut wing skins.
Cut coroplast nose inlays.
Cut rudder (double thickness fff) and spars.
Mark and cut 2 ribs (half ribs).
Mark spar and rib locations on inside of lower skin.

Bevel sand trailing edge of wing skins (4’’ wide bevel).
Bevel sand leading edge of wing skins (1/2” wide bevel).

Glue midline of upper and lower skins.
Mark, cut, fit, glue nose coroplast inserts.
Roll fff skins in front of spar to aid conformity to ribs.

Hot melt fff spar laminations together and to lower skin only.
Glue ribs in front of spar.
Add triangular slivers of fff from spar to trailing edge bevel on the diagonal to help support wing skin behind spar.

The wing will feel floppy with the spar in place until the wing is closed. No wood is needed for a spar.
Apr 22, 2017, 07:28 PM
skumgummi dave

Apr 23, 2017, 01:35 PM
Registered User
Position the servos and attach securely (hot melt glue?) to upper skin. Cut slot in upper skin for servo arm. Check servos for centering before you close the wing. Any later changes in servo arm using the center screw, will require wing surgery! Feed the servo leads through an access hole in the inner rib. Check lead length. Secure to bottom skin with blue tape. The hatch will be cut later in the coroplast.

Add the motor to the front of the ply firewall, drill for mounting screws, clear the center shaft and provide wire pass through to the ESC. It’s much easier to mount the motor to the fire wall now, than to work through the hatch later.
Locate the fire wall and hot melt it in place with excess, to the lower skin. It may be necessary to trim coroplast to clear motor.

Using 30 minute epoxy (or Gorilla glue ?), glue 4” trailing edge bevel of top to bottom skin, making sure you have full contact as the control surface will be cut from this area later.
Carefully position the upper and lower skins. Use blue tape to hold skins in position. Add weights to secure the join while the epoxy sets.
Last edited by low down and dry; Apr 23, 2017 at 02:46 PM. Reason: spelling
Apr 23, 2017, 02:40 PM
skumgummi dave
Did you take any other pictures of the build?

Apr 23, 2017, 02:48 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by foamdave
Did you take any other pictures of the build?

More photos and video to come.
Apr 23, 2017, 03:07 PM
skumgummi dave
Apr 23, 2017, 04:05 PM
Registered User
Pull leading edge of skins together without glue, holding with blue tape. The tape should individual strips about 3” long with no space between tape strips. Proceed from wing tip to nose center.

Let the skins set over night in a warm space. The skins will bend without heat. A heat gun can help the skins take a set. Use the heat gun with care.

Check to make sure no warps are in the wing now! If needed untape and correct before proceeding.
Remove the blue tape. Add gorilla glue to spar and ribs and replace all the tape. Weight the wing down on a flat surface to fully cure.

If wing is straight, no washout, proceed to to the wing tip and remove about 3” to 4“ of the blue tape and carefully squeeze hot melt glue into the space between the skins. Immediately replace new blue tape strips to hold this segment together. Let it cool for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on room temperature, before opening the adjacent 3” to 4” of tape and repeating the glue and tape.

After the glue as fully cooled, remove the blue tape, starting at wing tip, in 3” to 6” segments and replace with bidirectional fiber tape segments, extending about 1” on to the upper and lower skins.

Cut the 3 inch wide control surfaces free. Bevel the control surface to be hinged on the BOTTOM! Check glue laminations on control faces and spot any areas needed. Add one strip of bidirectional fiber tape top and bottom, to each control surface. Cover control surface completely with packing tape. Add packing tape to control surface cutout to help seal upper and lower skins. Add one full span strip of packing tape from wing tip to wing tip, top and bottom. Try to center tape over spar.

Cover upper and lower wing surfaces plus fin in 1.9 mil new stuff. Hinge control surfaces with mending tape. Add control horns.

Cut hatch open on 3 sides, on 4th side cut through top skin of coroplast and remove about a 2mm wide strip of the upper skin and most of depth of the flutes leaving the inner skin as the hinge.

Add trim colors. Attach control linkages. install ESC and Rx. Two 3s 2200 mha batteries were needed as far forward as possible to balance at 10 3/4” from tip of nose.

A plastic wall hook was stuck on the underside coroplast as a catapult hook. This greatly facilitates the launch for trim flights. Although no trim changes were needed.
Apr 23, 2017, 06:06 PM
Registered User
Video of G-clone. Bungee launch, power, glide and landing. Can you identify the back ground sound?

G-clone 2m Flying Wing (6 min 39 sec)

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Build Log Easy Fly Glider ST330 (Easy Glider Clone) FPV Build Thread SoMoney FPV Talk 493 Nov 12, 2012 04:08 PM
Discussion Flying a plank must be easy after Heli's... right? rusty_y2k2 Sport Planes 6 May 22, 2011 07:15 AM
Discussion An easy Question on JR XP9303 Setup for a Plank jims123 Slope 16 Aug 23, 2009 12:48 PM
Discussion 2M LEG Plank with air brakes Rwilkinson Slope 23 Aug 19, 2009 06:21 AM
Enigma 2m/Highlight 2m C of G Neil Stainton Thermal 12 Oct 01, 2003 02:05 AM