Guillow Junkers JU-87B Stuka 1002 - RC Groups
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Apr 17, 2017, 01:57 AM
Registered User
Build Log

Guillow Junkers JU-87B Stuka 1002


Original First Post
I was filling up a different thread with images of this little project so I decided to move my progress here. Its my first time doing a conversion with one of these so we shall see how it goes.

800 mah 3 cell
Eflite Park 340, 4 channels, planning on doing a partial sheeting of fuselage and wings with 1/32nd balsa and thats about it. Not hoping for anything to fancy except a flying model perhaps the 2nd one will turn out better we shall see.

Cheers


BUILD STATUS :: COMPLETED NOV 2017
I have moved the completed Model Image and link to the Maiden Video to the First page in the Build Log for ease of viewing. Please feel free to look through the build Pictures. This Thread will remain active until I add my final notes about the Build. Some tech changes, I abandoned the Park 340 and went with the Park 370.
Cheers
Guillows Stuka Maiden Flight (3 min 30 sec)
Last edited by PWJClub78; Nov 18, 2017 at 02:11 PM.
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Apr 17, 2017, 06:29 AM
CH Spring
I will be interested in how you make out, and how it flies.

Good luck with the build.


Cheers!
Apr 17, 2017, 09:13 AM
Summit Model Aeronautics
Steve85's Avatar
I have this kit in my "one of these days..." stash. Subscribed!

Steve
Apr 17, 2017, 02:41 PM
Big gov never Works
St. Martin's Avatar
Out of the four designs, that are in this series, the Stuka and P-47 have airfoils designed for rubber. The Dauntless and Hellcat have ready made RC type airfoils. The flat bottomed rubber intended airfoils are for a radical climb under strong rubber power and transitioning to a slow glide.

My first Stuka and P-47 were built with the stock airfoils, and were really nothing more than RC guided free flights. This was long before electric, but they both flew best with the Cox thrtl sleeve in idle to just partial power. Any power setting above that require holding a lot of down elevator for level(altho bumpy) flight. Very touchy between slow and higher speeds, all because of the very high wing lift. And that center of lift far forward in the chord.

All later versions of these two designs incorporated adding strip wood to the bottom ribs and sanding in an airfoil. Root rib increased 1/8" to the tip rib of 1/32" added strip wood. The wing needs positive of 2deg and washout of the same. Still, some downthrust added for final trimming. CG with modified airfoil around 25%MAC to start.

Be prepared to add a lot of downthrust and mix in some down elevator to thrtl, if the stock airfoil and wing angles are used. And, the ailerons in scale configuration are like the real plane. Very ineffective for roll. Just used to keep wings banked/level. It needs to turn with rudder.

I never made one of these in electric. But, the last version flew with a Cox Medallion .09 and thrtl sleeve. With the airfoil/wing angles as above, it was a good flyer using 6ch for flaps and bomb drop. Flew it till the motor flew out of the oil soaked nose. I have this and several other large Guillows, waiting for a day to fly them electric.

Fuzz
Apr 19, 2017, 04:29 AM
AKA Jagdpanther9
meltor's Avatar
cool! i'm on board.
Apr 19, 2017, 11:55 AM
Registered User

UpDate


So progress is a little slow at the moment, since on this build I have decided to take care of all major technical hurdles up front, as everything is still exposed and easy to get to. First task was cutting out the battery hatch which was a little tricky. If you have this kit and decided to place the battery hatch in a similar location make duplicate copies of formers B2 and B3. Then after you have glued the stringers cut these extra pieces at the height you want the battery hatch slide them in next to the other B2 and B3 pieces glue a 1/32nd balsa sheet on top and there you have it. I had to do a little jerry rigging to get the desired result.

If I had to do it over copies of B2 and B3 would have made this go a lot fast. So far I think I am doing pretty good for weight coming in just under 7oz with all electronics, plastic bits etc... I imagine the wings will probably come in at 3 oz since the fuselage is 1 oz all by itself. The park 350 is rated for a plane of up to 15 oz but I do not think I will get that heavy. Cheers
Apr 21, 2017, 01:41 AM
Registered User

FireWall


Firewall... using 1/16th inch plywood for the firewall, and 1/4 ply for the motor block which gives it the necessary clearance for the cowl. Punched some holes in it to still try and keep it light. I can't wait to start the wing, I think the rest of this build is going to go pretty quick once I finish up this technical stuff. Ahh the zen of gluing sticks.
Apr 26, 2017, 11:42 AM
Registered User

Beefed up the Fuselage


Well after some consideration I beefed up the air frame with some 1/8th balsa I only gained 1/4 of an oz of weight so as of right now my fuselage is coming in at 1, 1/4 oz so its still fairly light.

I do have a question that maybe some one knows the answer... About how much "Down Thrust" and "Down Right angle" are you giving these Gillows models? I know they were setup for rubber band power originally so I image that perhaps inherent to the design is a tendency to climb steeply at launch and then settle into a glide. If there are specific degrees that counter this tendency that would be great info...

Cheers
Apr 27, 2017, 09:54 AM
Summit Model Aeronautics
Steve85's Avatar
I've had success with 2-3 degrees right and down thrust. As you say, these were designed for rubber, so the aim was to achieve maximum climb during a short burst of power. I'd rather my RC models not climb too much as power is increased.

Steve
Apr 27, 2017, 10:54 AM
Registered User
Agreed... I just read another post on this Guillows Stuka that said, the wing design on the Giant stuka is especially notorious for a steep climb. I am just starting on the wing, I am building in 3 degrees of washout on the tips, I wonder if I can build some of climb that out as well. I did go with the Control Line Spar instead of the free flight spar so there is less dihedral.
Apr 30, 2017, 11:07 PM
Registered User

Beginning the Wing


Well Finally got to start the wing build, I couldn't decide if I wanted to run the Ailerons on a single servo or two. I looked at a couple of setups that used a single servo in the middle of the air frame and a run of guitar wire pushing both servos. In the end I have opted to run two servos instead of one. I have also opted for mounting the servo sticking out of the wing for simplicity. It won't look as clean as it would with a servo tray but sometimes over engineering things can cause you problems. I know this will work Cheers
May 03, 2017, 10:57 AM
Registered User

I see a Plane


I do believe I am starting to see an Airplane I think I will have the main wing section finished tonight after work. I am thinking about doing a Monokote Dove Grey.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flite-MonoK.../dp/B000X4OQFS

I think this will be lighter than sheeting but stronger than the tissue with dope method. I am still doing fairly well with the overall weight so it should work out.
May 03, 2017, 11:29 AM
Retired and Lovin' it!
TPfingston's Avatar
NIce job! I believe though that you will find Monocote to be a bit heavy for this type of airplane. There are other coverings that are much lighter.
May 03, 2017, 11:48 AM
Registered User
I am not a fan of the dope and tissue method... What is an alternative to monokote? I need to be able to paint on it.
May 03, 2017, 02:05 PM
Registered User
AntiArf's Avatar
I've been painting Microlite iron-on (not the synthetic tissue type) for years. The Rustoleum American Accents is one of the best paints I've used, for coverage and not relaxing Microlite, as some paints will. Most of the relaxing will reshrink when dry, and can be removed with a high power hair dryer or very careful heat gun from a far distance, if necessary. I've found setting 4-5 feet away under a heat lamp while drying paint will also remove and relaxing, due to painting. Here's the small Stuka with painted Microlite. I used Monokote (heavy) on my larger Guillow's Stuka with 1/32" sheeting. Done again, I would have gone the painted Microlite route on that build also.


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