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Oct 23, 2017, 12:50 PM
Wisconsin

ProfiCNC Here GPS with UC4H GPS Mag node inside


First ProfiCNC Here CANBus GPS/MAG.



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Oct 23, 2017, 01:12 PM
OlliW
hold on, that's cool now
more infos, more pictures, pl
could be worthwhile to share also at Ardupilot discuss

may I guess, you've opened that gps and placed a gpsmag node inside it? pics of that!?
Oct 23, 2017, 03:54 PM
Wisconsin
YA instead of one of those "Intel inside" stickers we need a "UC4H inside" sticker! I expected the mag not to work but it calibrated fine. Since the UC4H is not in a can like the gps receiver is it might still affect readings I suppose.

It was not hard at all. Ringing out the pinouts was not easy since ProfiCNC does not label anything. I just used standoffs to widen the case a little. Bolts solidly back together and a little ring of tape for cosmetics.

We will see how it works in flight. I like the ProfiCNC Here GPS because it has a nice big ground plane for the receiver.











Oct 23, 2017, 09:12 PM
OlliW
very nice !

as regards the possibility of interference, a slight improvement: You can mount the gpsmag node flipped upside down, i.e., with its bottom side towards the gps main board ... the idea is that the node pcb has a big ground plane on the bottom which in this way is in between the node's and gps'es electronic, acting as a kind of shielding layer ...
that's at least how I mount it for the reasons of minimizing interference
I do not really expect this to have a noticeable effect, but since its easy to do for free, I'd do it

maybe you want to put some foam between case and gpsmag node pcb, to make it mechanically more stable
Oct 23, 2017, 09:45 PM
Wisconsin
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW
very nice !

as regards the possibility of interference, a slight improvement: You can mount the gpsmag node flipped upside down, i.e., with its bottom side towards the gps main board ... the idea is that the node pcb has a big ground plane on the bottom which in this way is in between the node's and gps'es electronic, acting as a kind of shielding layer ...
that's at least how I mount it for the reasons of minimizing interference
I do not really expect this to have a noticeable effect, but since its easy to do for free, I'd do it

maybe you want to put some foam between case and gpsmag node pcb, to make it mechanically more stable
I mounted it exactly where it is to minimize the thickness. The connectors on the GPSMag interlock with other things yielding the lowest profile. I did put a thin piece of rubber between GPSMag on the receiver can. I think if I have to I can build a cage around the GPSMag with very thin copper tape. I use it a lot to create ground planes on frame plates. As it is it kinda is shielded top and bottom. Top because of the receiver can and bottom the ground plane on the back of the GPSMAG.

But it did cal just fine with low value offsets. So lets see how it does.

Getting to feel like I might see light at the end of the tunnel. Mounted the power brick tonight an it looks good, if I did not fry it. I HATE soldering big gauge wires. My basement is quite cold and solder joints cool down way to fast. But there is nothing I can do about it. I end up using too much heat to get them to solder. I need to drill holes for the ESC's and mount them tomorrow.

Can't wait to see it fly!
Oct 23, 2017, 09:50 PM
OlliW
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_kelly
I mounted it exactly where it is to minimize the thickness.
ah, ok, makes total sense
as said, I would no expect this to really matter
very cool. I like that UC4H-ized gps

edit: I took the liberty to post this at ardupilot discuss
Last edited by OlliW; Oct 23, 2017 at 11:44 PM.
Oct 24, 2017, 06:20 PM
Wisconsin
Got the powerbrick installed. Now I have to get brave enough to power it up!



Oct 25, 2017, 12:15 AM
OlliW
you surely have seen this on my web page, but I post it here nevertheless:



I see you've cut off the pin headers
it would be now easy to also remove them: strip of the black plastic piece which kind of frees each pin, now just heat each pin individually and it should fall off, or can be taken out with a pincer

if you go in steps there is no braveness needed
first power up the power brick disconnected from the flight controller, and check the 5.3V voltage
if that is good, connect the 5.3V to the flight controller, it will work
Oct 25, 2017, 05:37 AM
Wisconsin
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW
you surely have seen this on my web page, but I post it here nevertheless:



I see you've cut off the pin headers
it would be now easy to also remove them: strip of the black plastic piece which kind of frees each pin, now just heat each pin individually and it should fall off, or can be taken out with a pincer

if you go in steps there is no braveness needed
first power up the power brick disconnected from the flight controller, and check the 5.3V voltage
if that is good, connect the 5.3V to the flight controller, it will work
I usually strip-back the insulation on the ground wire and don't even cut it. But I was having a real problem getting things to solder at all. Even tho I have a high temp station I could not get it to attach. Too much wire as a heat sink and the workspace is too cold. So did the best I could. The ground wires are close but not touching.

I trimmed back the pin connectors so they would not touch anything but I did not want to remove them in case I found I needed one, then I can solder to the pin. Again in my workspace using solder wick to remove solder usually results in delaminating the brd.

I am having a problem now routing the 16gauge motor power wires. I was going to have two power supplies, one for motor power and one for electronics but I think the extra wires will not be possible. I don't like the way 3DR ran the motor power through their main circuit board right next to all their electronics. No wonder they had noise problems.

The braveness comes in being willing to find out if you cooked the brd because of too much heat soldering.
Oct 25, 2017, 07:00 AM
OlliW
it sounds as if you in fact have a too weak solder iron ... I had this very same kind of issues when I still had my 30W Ersa iron ... since a while I have a 50W Weller, which allows me to go beyond 450, and with it this sort of solder job became a piece of cake .. and at the same time it is great to do SMD work ... I think it's high time for you to get a reasonable solder station
Oct 25, 2017, 07:49 AM
Wisconsin
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW
it sounds as if you in fact have a too weak solder iron ... I had this very same kind of issues when I still had my 30W Ersa iron ... since a while I have a 50W Weller, which allows me to go beyond 450, and with it this sort of solder job became a piece of cake .. and at the same time it is great to do SMD work ... I think it's high time for you to get a reasonable solder station
I have a 500deg C, 50w temp controlled station. My workspace is just too cold to work well.
Oct 25, 2017, 07:59 AM
OlliW
honestly, I put this "cold workspace" argument in doubt (heatflow and other properties is determined by T in Kelvin ) ... unless it's way below zero centigre, which I would doubt too
strange, I think there must be some other reason
anyway
Oct 25, 2017, 09:57 AM
Wisconsin
Could be a defective station, not getting up to temp. But solder joint cool instantly when the iron is removed. I never get a "shiny" joint, always looks crystalized. I'll get another station just to be sure.
Oct 25, 2017, 10:01 AM
OlliW
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_kelly
I never get a "shiny" joint, always looks crystalized.
this I think "proves" that something is not as it should be
Oct 25, 2017, 10:04 AM
Wisconsin
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW
this I think "proves" that something is not as it should be
But it starts shiny until I remove the tip from the joint.


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