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Sep 03, 2019, 08:39 PM
FPV IT
TOMZILLA's Avatar
I printed the nozzle insert on Thingiverse out of TPU. Its a tight rubbery fit and shouldn't blow out. Maybe it'll turn better if not then I'll be buying the nozzle upgrade listed here.
Last edited by TOMZILLA; Sep 06, 2019 at 07:42 PM.
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Sep 05, 2019, 10:58 AM
Registered User
tware's Avatar
what size battery? Stock RX and ESC? yeah, the grate is just a gasket, will leak.
Last edited by tware; Sep 06, 2019 at 11:13 AM.
Sep 05, 2019, 05:12 PM
Jetdrives R Us
sundogz's Avatar
Thread OP

Improved canopy retainment


Is it annoying that you have to turn 4 long thumbscrews out what seems to be 20 turns each just to remove the canopy? Well it is more than annoying if something lets out the magic smoke and you are frantic to get to the root of the problem.

Here is a solution that only takes a quarter of the time it usually takes to remove the canopy. It involves removing the front two thumbscrews and installing a 3D printable clip (.stl file provided below) between the drivers, and then removing (grinding/filing off) half the threads of the two remaining thumbscrews.

Now the front of the canopy will be held by the clip while the two remaining thumbscrews only take half the turns to secure, and it will be as watertight as it ever was (tongue in cheek).
Last edited by sundogz; Sep 05, 2019 at 05:31 PM.
Sep 06, 2019, 10:06 AM
Jetdrives R Us
sundogz's Avatar
Thread OP
I realize the problems with the stock RiverJet are numerous, but please let's try to not use this forum for bashing what can be a good boat. The purpose of this thread is to list possible solutions to the various problems inherent in the stock boat. If you have found a solution to a problem or complaint, then this is the place to post it! Here is a thread on the boat that is more suitable for venting frustrations....and the thread we get many ideas from!
Last edited by sundogz; Sep 06, 2019 at 08:54 PM.
Sep 06, 2019, 07:46 PM
FPV IT
TOMZILLA's Avatar
Bashing, umm ok. Its edited carry on.
Sep 06, 2019, 08:48 PM
Jetdrives R Us
sundogz's Avatar
Thread OP
I may have chosen the wrong word, and certainly didn't mean to offend anyone. Thank you both for the edits. I'll remove the title, too.
Last edited by sundogz; Sep 06, 2019 at 08:53 PM.
Sep 06, 2019, 11:26 PM
Registered User
KiwiKrawler's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sundogz
Is it annoying that you have to turn 4 long thumbscrews out what seems to be 20 turns each just to remove the canopy? Well it is more than annoying if something lets out the magic smoke and you are frantic to get to the root of the problem.

Here is a solution that only takes a quarter of the time it usually takes to remove the canopy. It involves removing the front two thumbscrews and installing a 3D printable clip (.stl file provided below) between the drivers, and then removing (grinding/filing off) half the threads of the two remaining thumbscrews.

Now the front of the canopy will be held by the clip while the two remaining thumbscrews only take half the turns to secure, and it will be as watertight as it ever was (tongue in cheek).
Once again...great minds think alike Sundogz. Iím just in the process of fabricating a similar method of hatch retention on my spare boat. I figured the boys needed some headrests cos this boats got some serious boggie...and would hate for them to get whiplash. Pictured below is my initial template. Will possibly cut off the tops of some race seats that usually get mounted in my crawlers to put on there...and shape them to fit on the retention plate. Will relieve the front edge of the hatch with a dremel so it slides straight under the plate. And obviously remove the front two thumbscrews to speed up the hatch removal process. Iíll also be installing quarter turn cam-locks on the rear to make the hatch removal even quicker and easier. 🙃

Or....maybe someone could design a 3d printed one to save me all the work....😬
Sep 17, 2019, 04:41 PM
Registered User
Has anyone found any good way of removing the stock battery tray? I would love to try and put this Traxxas TRX-4 battery tray in its place or possibly in front of the motor. I think this quick release battery hold down would eliminate the complication of the Velcro straps. Of course this tray would need that lower hump and those side nubs trimmed off.

P.S. My Sundogz Nozzle/Bucket & Ride Plate shipped from Shapeways and I am pretty stoked.
Last edited by Jetterbug; Sep 17, 2019 at 04:56 PM. Reason: Improper pic upload
Sep 17, 2019, 05:05 PM
Jetdrives R Us
sundogz's Avatar
Thread OP
I had planned on making a tray to go in front of the motor, but after poking my ruler around I realized this wasn't gonna work the way I wanted.

The epoxy Proboat uses to fasten the tray is (as far as I'm concerned) permanent. You will damage the hull trying to pry/scrape/cut it away. What I did was to convert the esc/Rx tray to another battery tray and moved the esc &Rx rearward. This will balance the weight and keep the COG low. I can run 2 lipos in series (2S) or in parallel (3 or 4S) and my lipos all fit the narrower space just fine. I just twisted the sides off with pliers, filled the Rx indent with epoxy, covered it all with self-adhesive Velcro and made Velcro straps for it. Easy to install/remove batteries now.

I also removed the water outlet from the side of the boat to give more room forward, but probably won't need it. This was really just an excuse to relocate the water out to the top of the transom where it belongs (much easier to see if water is flowing). It was a pain in the , as the water outlet nut is glued on, so you have to drill it off from the outside, then epoxy/glass the hole.
Last edited by sundogz; Sep 17, 2019 at 05:15 PM. Reason: added pics
Sep 30, 2019, 12:02 AM
Registered User
KiwiKrawler's Avatar
Another thing that impressed me with the reverse bucket available for the River Jet...is the fact although itís seems rather large and obtrusive...there is no obstruction to any of the fixing screws for the stator. Makes servicing the boat as easy as if it wasnít there at all.
Sep 30, 2019, 12:12 AM
Registered User
KiwiKrawler's Avatar
Havenít run this boat since I shot the video trying out the newly fitted reverse bucket. That was because when I was trying it out in shallow water I heard the dreaded noise a jet drive makes when it ingests a big gob full of gravel. So a strip down to investigate was needed...and I was expecting the worst. To my amazement the impeller was still like new. And the stator only had the one chunk out of it from the last check up. But. The supposed stainless bearing I understood Iíd purchased was a rusted blob of crap. Showing the necessity to run a good quality ceramic bearing out back in the stator.
Sep 30, 2019, 12:27 AM
Registered User
KiwiKrawler's Avatar
And that brings me to the point. That Iíve been having a heck of a time sourcing a good quality ceramic bearing to insert into the stator. So Iíve had to grab what I could...which is a millimeter smaller in diameter than whatís required. And to make it fit Iíve fabricated a sleeve out of copper tubing that is an interface fit between the bearing and stator. I like the fact that if the bearing seizes and spins for any reason...the only damage will be to the sleeve and not the stator. For that reason...I think Iíll do the same on my FJD to protect the drive from damage in the event of a bearing failure.
Jan 25, 2020, 01:55 PM
Registered User
Panhead5496's Avatar
Anyone still running these??

I haven’t driven mine in months and got it out last weekend. Way more fun than I remembered! I added the nozzle insert and it helped with steering very well. Still got to order a ride plate as it still hops a bit. Might just go ahead and get a nozzle as well. and maybe reverse bucket lol!

My question is about maintenance...do y’all pull the whole pump or just put new grease down in it? I did the grease port mod a long time ago and haven’t pulled the pump since. I just use my grease gun and pretty much force as much grease down in there as I can get, slowly spinning the motor by hand until it gets filled up. Is this adequate??
Jan 26, 2020, 09:25 AM
Jetdrives R Us
sundogz's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panhead5496
Anyone still running these??
My question is about maintenance...do yíall pull the whole pump or just put new grease down in it? I did the grease port mod a long time ago and havenít pulled the pump since. I just use my grease gun and pretty much force as much grease down in there as I can get, slowly spinning the motor by hand until it gets filled up. Is this adequate??
That outta do it! If you find you're breaking parts more often than you like, the 3D FJD drop-in replacement for the Riverjet (page 16, post 236 of this thread) works a treat. Speed is about the same, but if you manage to break something, parts are cheap (if you have a 3D printer). Here is a build thread.
Jan 27, 2020, 03:41 PM
Registered User

Motor recommendations.


Hi I am building up a River Jet boat from spares and was wondering if there was a recommendation for a motor or the Kv for the most excellent 35mm drop in replacement jet drive designed by sundogz,
I presume I can play with stators and cells to balance the load somewhat but it would help if I could get a ballpark motor to help keep costs down.

Many thanks


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