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Apr 10, 2017, 03:37 AM
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Discussion

NEW PRUSA i4 3D printer


I have just ordered one of these. It is billed as a 2017 improved version of the Prusa i3 and appears to be greatly improved over the older model. I has both aluminum and lexan frame parts, but appears to be a boxed frame type.

I have just ordered this printer today and have confirmation it has been shipped, so I should receive it sometime late this week - I hope! LOL!!


This thread will be for fans of the PRUSA i4.


Hillbille
Last edited by hillbille; Apr 12, 2017 at 12:51 AM.
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Apr 10, 2017, 08:53 AM
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Be aware, this is not a Prusa printer. Joseph Prusa hasn't announced an i4, check out their website. Just another knock off using the Prusa name. However, many of the knockoffs work just fine after lots of mods. Looking forward to your reports on how well it works. Here is a link to the Facebook group for this printer. https://www.facebook.com/groups/573076312852368

Don
Apr 10, 2017, 12:58 PM
SJ
SJ
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China stuff....cancel the order, and get the real Prusa if you paid just as much as the original.
Apr 10, 2017, 01:44 PM
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Didn't pay much and I'll wait it out. It is still an improved i3. That's why I posted the picks. Looks to have improved aluminum frame that is boxed as opposed to flat and open. The way I could tell it was not the (or "a" ) "new" printer is all of the upgrades and improvements that are available for it from so many people. I would hardly expect a "new" printer to get that widespread so quickly.

Hillbille
Apr 10, 2017, 01:50 PM
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Perhaps I should edit the title to NEW PRUSA i3 DESIGN - sold as i4 3D Printer.

I think anyone seeing the photos though will know what it is.

Hillbille
Apr 12, 2017, 11:06 PM
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UPS truck just left my house - from delivering my printer! NOT BAD!

There will be a slight delay on my next post as I am totally unprepared to start unboxing this thing - it has arrived 6 days early! I don't have a place to put it yet! (Okay that's not true - I have a place for it - it's just not clean or ready... yet! LOL!


Will advise!

Hillbille
Apr 13, 2017, 10:47 AM
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I like the 3 screw bed leveling. That's just natural.

Ken
Apr 13, 2017, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by dz1sfb View Post
I like the 3 screw bed leveling. That's just natural.

Ken
I agree IF the bed isn't warped. If so, the 3 screw approach is even more compromised than the 4 screw approach which can help reduce some of the warping.

I reluctantly went to Auto Bed Level Compensation on my printer and it is surprising how much warping/ripples it picks up during the bed mapping, even on a glass top

Don
Apr 13, 2017, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by DonA View Post
I agree IF the bed isn't warped. If so, the 3 screw approach is even more compromised than the 4 screw approach which can help reduce some of the warping.

I reluctantly went to Auto Bed Level Compensation on my printer and it is surprising how much warping/ripples it picks up during the bed mapping, even on a glass top

Don
Don,
If you have to fight a warped bed, then you are driving loads into the support system that could impact printing performance. Best to replace the bed. Or better yet employ a stable bed platform that in and of itself is leveled at three points.

Ken
Apr 13, 2017, 05:37 PM
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Ken, I agree with you but as our beds get bigger (and bigger) and are aluminum, they warp (actually more of a bow) pretty easily. My X axis is over 350mm and I have now gone to a 5 point support system, my bed has a tendency to sag in the middle as it heats. Glass will somewhat compensate for that but it will also sag over time. Since I use a bed level compensation setup (BL Touch) I don't have to re-level often but even the BL Touch system works better with the bed as level as possible.

Don
Apr 13, 2017, 06:49 PM
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Un-boxing today.

Will advise.

Hillbille
Apr 13, 2017, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DonA View Post
Ken, I agree with you but as our beds get bigger (and bigger) and are aluminum, they warp (actually more of a bow) pretty easily. My X axis is over 350mm and I have now gone to a 5 point support system, my bed has a tendency to sag in the middle as it heats. Glass will somewhat compensate for that but it will also sag over time. Since I use a bed level compensation setup (BL Touch) I don't have to re-level often but even the BL Touch system works better with the bed as level as possible.

Don
Don,
I believe we could learn something from the amateur astronomers, of which I am not, though one taught me how to build a telescope. The instrument I built has a 8" diameter mirror that is 1-1/2" thick Pyrex (borosilicate) glass. It requires a 9 point suspension system at minimum to prevent distortion of the optical surface under its own weight. Yet it is kept aligned by three screws. Utilizing a similar concept, our heat bed flatness could be controlled in a like manner. This set up in the telescope is called a mirror cell. Perhaps we need a heat bed cell?

Ken
Apr 13, 2017, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hillbille View Post
Un-boxing today.

Will advise.

Hillbille
Looking forward to learning from your experience. I apologize for the hijack.

Ken
Apr 14, 2017, 07:34 PM
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Looking forward to learning from your experience. I apologize for the hijack.

Ken
LOL! Hijack away - it's all good and it's all about 3D printing, printers, and how to use them in the best way. To me it's like a bunch of car guys - one's faster, bigger, smaller, quicker at this or that, but in the end they all transport the drivers home.


Hillbille
Apr 16, 2017, 12:20 AM
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Trouble.

System check seemed to be fine. All axis move correctly and smoothly. It will go to the home position.

I leveled the bed (several times! LOL!

Testing has revealed a problem with the printer.

When I try to preheat the PLA (LCD menu - set Control - Temperature - Preheat PLA config - Nozzle - 200 - Bed - 50) then go back to prepare and Preheat PLA. The bed goes pretty fast to 50, the nozzle climbs with it to 50 then continues on by itself, but will not heat beyond 160 (well I did watch it get all the way to 169 - once - but then it fell sharply back to below 160). Sometimes the temp will fluctuate between 150 and 160 for a while then it seems to shut off completely and fall as low as 50 and then begin a slow climb back to 160, but NEVER gets to PLA print temp no matter what.

At first I thought it might be the SSR acting up - under amping the heat, but I am beginning to think it is the main board. I have sent the supplier a request for help and described the problem and... we'll see what happens.

Sorry for the edit - but - my reasoning for the thinking it's the main board is that I cannot connect to the printer through the USB either. Settings are correct and Repetier says it is connected, but no control what so ever and no functioning via USB.


Hillbille


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