Norvel .074 Big Mig. - RC Groups
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Apr 01, 2017, 04:13 PM
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marmalade1's Avatar
Discussion

Norvel .074 Big Mig.


Dear Enablers,

Just getting into 1/2A (or close).
Bought 2 NIB Norvel .074s as everyone seems to rate them highly for small planes.

What engine mounts fit perfectly? I try not to have mounts with holes near the edges, and the popular fixed sized mounts offer little flexibility. So what's worked well for you?

While I have your attention:
What break-in props do you suggest?
What sport props do you suggest?
I'm going to be using 10% nitro Omega fuel.

Most likely for a Herr Cloud Ranger set up for aerobatic performance (no dihedral, larger throws, hot / light engine, ailerons).

Thanks for the input.

PD
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Apr 01, 2017, 10:58 PM
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Like this? (The engine is an AME 0.060 which I think is similar to your Norvel)

Apr 02, 2017, 12:50 AM
Registered User
They are awsome engines! Be aware that some glow drivers will NOT make the glow element glow nicely. Take the plug out and check/adjust the voltage before running. 10% is good. They like some nitro. Super economic and great power to weight.
Apr 02, 2017, 04:01 AM
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surfer_kris's Avatar
There should be a Hayes mount for it I think, but one can also use the Hayes one for the .061 engines. It needs some material to be removed, but I have done that in the past when the space was limited (see below).

You'll need to run-in the engine on the bench first as these engines are usually quite tight. Just pre-heat the cylinder with a heat gun or small portable torch. Use plenty of castor in the fuel (20-25% all castor) and a bit of Nitro (10% is enough). They came with 3 head shims I think, use all of them until the engine is run in, and then you can experiment if you want to. The APC 6.3x4 prop is a very good match for the engine, but you can also use a 7x3-7x3.5 prop. For easier starting you can also use the starter spring for the .061 engine, just rotate it 180° and make a small hole in the engine mount (I prefer that to making it in the engine lug).

Below is a little movie I did some time ago, the power to weight is excellent in these engines and they throttle well too.
(skip to about 1:05 where I'm fiddling with the throttle stop)

Super Chipmunk (speed 400 ARF) on glow (2 min 56 sec)
Last edited by surfer_kris; Apr 02, 2017 at 04:32 AM.
Apr 02, 2017, 04:24 AM
Registered User
Nice muffler! The nitro helps with starting and does give a higher rpm. Merlin do an excellent plug for these. Not sure if they are still around?
Apr 02, 2017, 06:05 AM
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surfer_kris's Avatar
I haven't seen any .074 glow-heads from Merlin, only the .049-.061 ones.

There was a also a Turbo-plug head made by Ronald Valentine, these work well and give you a selection of heat ranges. Don't know if he still make them though.

Regarding the engine mount, the Cox .09 is almost a direct drop-in, just needs a little adjustment on the beam width. These are still available here; Cox .09 mount

It seems the best time for the little ones where about 10-15years ago. It is a pity as the planes are much more fun and competitive today with the modern radio equipment. Appart from scratch building I have also converted a few "electric" ARFs and they come out much lighter on glow, plus all the other advantages you get with a glow engine.
Apr 02, 2017, 06:36 AM
the great Gassifďer
Quote:
Originally Posted by surfer_kris
.... plus all the other advantages you get with a glow engine.
Such as a lot of noise, lugging around a lot of starting equipment, planes covered in oil, smelly clothes and less power

(just kidding: I LOVE IC engines and rather give up on flying than to convert to all electric!)
Last edited by Brutus1967; Apr 02, 2017 at 01:10 PM.
Apr 02, 2017, 07:29 AM
Engine Frankensteiner™
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
Doug Galbreath also makes a conversion head for the Norvel engines that uses Nelson glow plugs - which are priced attractively at around $5/ea. The listing in this link shows .049 and .061 engines, but I'm sure they have heads for the .074 also. Maybe drop him an email. http://kittingittogether.com/accesso...nversion-head/
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; Apr 02, 2017 at 12:10 PM.
Apr 02, 2017, 09:40 AM
Registered User
PD,

I used to fly my cloud ranger with th 074. It is a perfect combination. I used a 7x3 APC on mine.
I currently fly the ranger with an OS 10 FP. The 074 is lighter and better on fuel but the
OS 10 FP is almost impossible to make run poorly no matter what you do to it.

I put a micro servo in each wing panel. Haynes makes an engine mount that fits the 074 very well and they also make a fuel tank that fits snug up in front the ranger. I think it is the 4 oz. You have to "build" it into the plane. I can get almost 30 min if I take it real easy on the throttle if my memory serves me right.

The ranger is a great plane. I am sure you will love it.
Apr 02, 2017, 12:29 PM
Registered User
marmalade1's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snorks
They are awsome engines! Be aware that some glow drivers will NOT make the glow element glow nicely. Take the plug out and check/adjust the voltage before running. 10% is good. They like some nitro. Super economic and great power to weight.
I've been using the Dynamite Lipo glow driver. It is supposed to down regulate voltage, but it glows so bright that I'm not convinced. (I think I entered data on another thread about it a while back).

No burn outs yet, so I'm really happy to be rid of NiXX glow batteries.

Regarding fuel, I really don't want to get into multiple blends, I expect I'll just use Omega 10% (17% castor/synth blend).

After reading here from reputable posters that some in Europe use 10% all synthetic lube on all their plane engines without issue, I stopped worrying so much about "just" 17% lube of which about 1/3 is castor.

PD
Apr 02, 2017, 12:36 PM
Registered User
marmalade1's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by surfer_kris
There should be a Hayes mount for it I think, but one can also use the Hayes one for the .061 engines. It needs some material to be removed, but I have done that in the past when the space was limited (see below).

You'll need to run-in the engine on the bench first as these engines are usually quite tight. Just pre-heat the cylinder with a heat gun or small portable torch. Use plenty of castor in the fuel (20-25% all castor) and a bit of Nitro (10% is enough). They came with 3 head shims I think, use all of them until the engine is run in, and then you can experiment if you want to. The APC 6.3x4 prop is a very good match for the engine, but you can also use a 7x3-7x3.5 prop. For easier starting you can also use the starter spring for the .061 engine, just rotate it 180° and make a small hole in the engine mount (I prefer that to making it in the engine lug).

Below is a little movie I did some time ago, the power to weight is excellent in these engines and they throttle well too.
(skip to about 1:05 where I'm fiddling with the throttle stop)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trSCx-6zlAo
Kris,
Great looking Chipmonk!
The plane 'looks' so much bigger than 1/2A!

In a moment of clarity, I thought to look on the NV website. They have the .074 mount in stock. That'll fit!

Yes, I heard about the heat gun on the head before starting. Makes sense. I'll take my time running it in. No hurry.

What kit was the Chipmonk? CG?

PD
Apr 02, 2017, 12:41 PM
Registered User
marmalade1's Avatar
Thank you, 1QwkSport,
Yes, the conversion heads seem to need to be on the shipping list for these.

I'll keep that email address.

PD
Last edited by marmalade1; Apr 02, 2017 at 12:45 PM. Reason: Name
Apr 02, 2017, 01:17 PM
Registered User
marmalade1's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by xanaphyst
PD,

I used to fly my cloud ranger with th 074. It is a perfect combination. I used a 7x3 APC on mine.
I currently fly the ranger with an OS 10 FP. The 074 is lighter and better on fuel but the
OS 10 FP is almost impossible to make run poorly no matter what you do to it.

I put a micro servo in each wing panel. Haynes makes an engine mount that fits the 074 very well and they also make a fuel tank that fits snug up in front the ranger. I think it is the 4 oz. You have to "build" it into the plane. I can get almost 30 min if I take it real easy on the throttle if my memory serves me right.

The ranger is a great plane. I am sure you will love it.
Great information, thanks.
With micro servos on the wings, .074, mini rx, 1s lipo rx power... it could be really light!

I still haven't ordered the plane, but I'm excited. Sig has it for about $60 shipped.

Looking at the Super Chipmonk in this thread makes me plan for using that 2nd engine....

PD
Apr 02, 2017, 02:50 PM
Engine Frankensteiner™
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by marmalade1
I've been using the Dynamite Lipo glow driver. It is supposed to down regulate voltage, but it glows so bright that I'm not convinced. (I think I entered data on another thread about it a while back).

No burn outs yet, so I'm really happy to be rid of NiXX glow batteries.

Regarding fuel, I really don't want to get into multiple blends, I expect I'll just use Omega 10% (17% castor/synth blend).

After reading here from reputable posters that some in Europe use 10% all synthetic lube on all their plane engines without issue, I stopped worrying so much about "just" 17% lube of which about 1/3 is castor.

PD
1/2a engines are in a different realm when it comes to fuel. You cannot fuel them like you would a .45 or .61. They need more oil. 20% should be the absolute minimum - at least in the USA. If you use some European synthetics, you may have a chance of the engines surviving for awhile, but I that stuff is expensive.

JMHO. YMMV.

In regard to the LiPo glow driver - 3.7v (1s) will burn a 1.5v glow plug out immediately. A fully charged NiCd cell will glow a plug so bright and hot it can burn your finger, so I'm very certain the dynamite driver is doing what it's supposed to be doing (regulating voltage).
Apr 02, 2017, 04:01 PM
Registered User
surfer_kris's Avatar
Yes, the Lipo driver from Dynamite RC is regulated to keep 1.5V over the plug, independent on the battery charged state. This is a big improvement over NiMh ones that are never up to 1.5V, even when absolutely fully charged, and then drop from there...

The Dynamite driver works well on the stock norvel plug in terms of voltage. It was only the very early .049 Norvel that needed a little bit more juice. The driver can sometimes fly-off from the head though (since there is not much to grab on to) so be careful with that...

The Norvel engines run the crank directly in and aluminium crank-case, the conrod is not bushed either and the aluminium piston runs in a ceramic coated cylinder etc. Need I go on...?
This is why you need castor in the oil!

(one cannot compare the need for oil in these engines to larger engines, as the construction is very different)
Last edited by surfer_kris; Apr 02, 2017 at 04:08 PM.


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