Down Under - Race Ready II - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Mar 24, 2017, 06:25 PM
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Dirk25's Avatar
CNC routing IOM profiles (0 min 13 sec)
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Mar 24, 2017, 09:48 PM
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Hey coolmobility

Awesome images you posted of the hull planked using Real Wood Edgeband Veneer ...

Not to highjack this thread ... but ... hoping someone STARTS NEW THREAD about the use of Wood Veneer Edgeband material for plank-on-frame construction ... or... deck planking.

Using Edgeband Wood Veneer sure will save time and material ripping down large stock materials into thin planks
Mar 25, 2017, 07:57 AM
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Dirk25's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by slo.ca6
Dirk25

Just an FYI ...
There are a wild range of suppliers for edgband tape materials of real wood veneer ... as I noted on other forum posts (Google search)

In particular ... edgband comes in THICKNESS from 1mm to as much as 3mm ... as well as ... down as thin as 0.020"with standard thickness of 0.060" and 0.080"

I to had original interest as you noted ...
Build balsa plank-on-frame ... then add on ... an additional top thin real wood veneer planking ... with final 0.5 oz glass layer for water seal n strength.

Using edgband real wood veneer was also something I considered when doing non-structural deck planking.

Will be watching your build ...

Always good to see what others are doing and sharing ideas to make improvements ... especially sharing lessons learned to make things easier for others getting started (and old dogs learn new tricks) ... I am in then latter group (ole dog)

All the best n success in your build
I know everything there is to know about edgetape.
I had to clean out our edgebanding cupboard at the start of the year. I had 300 rolls of edgetape and I only kept what is left in the cupboard now approx. 40 rolls.

I do wish I had kept some of the really nice 2mm stuff we had. Wont be long till I get another 100 rolls of various colours and thicknesses that I'll be able to use.

I can also get whatever Veneer leaf I want glued up into various thicknesses and cut to whatever size I'd like so no shortage of stock to build boats.

Not to mention all the timber we have that I can easily rip and thickness to the right size within minutes...
Oh the joys of having all the machinery set up 24/7.

I'm really enjoying this hobby
Mar 25, 2017, 08:05 AM
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Dirk25's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmobility
Dirk, if you want to show a video, you need to publish to Youtube, Vimeo, etc first then you just insert the link. We'd love to see your gear working. What CAD software do you work with? David J. and I use AutoCad. All the best with your build and make those critical old farts eat crow.
Colin
Colin,
Thanks for the tip on the video. I didn't even think of doing it that way.

We run an American program called Microvellum which works inside AutoCAD. Its mainly for the Cabinetmaking industry but we have done so much more with it.
We were one of the first companies to use it when it came out in Australia.

The next build I do I'll try and include a detail of all the machinery and tools I use. I didn't realise that this was something that was very interesting to most people as I take it for granted having been around it my whole life.

Also sweet looking hull mate.
Mar 25, 2017, 08:15 AM
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Dirk25's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by slo.ca6
Hey coolmobility

Awesome images you posted of the hull planked using Real Wood Edgeband Veneer ...

Not to highjack this thread ... but ... hoping someone STARTS NEW THREAD about the use of Wood Veneer Edgeband material for plank-on-frame construction ... or... deck planking.

Using Edgeband Wood Veneer sure will save time and material ripping down large stock materials into thin planks
Don't be sorry about hijacking the thread. Its a discussion and you might be on to something.

A new thread if done right utilising Veneer Edgebanding might open up a whole new level of building techniques that will give a great effect, is cost effective and is readily available to everyone and can easily achieve a hull that is light weight.

I may take the lead on this once this build is done if someone else doesn't jump in before me!
Mar 25, 2017, 08:33 AM
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So Friday afternoon was taken up by chasing girls at the local with a bunch of mates. As us 25yr olds do!

Saturday I worked as we are so busy so knock of time couldn't come around sooner.

Finished the hull after work and had afternoon tea to wait an hour for the glue to dry.
Quickly got it to shape using a block plane very, very carefully and then gave it a rough sand with 180g
Mixed some dust with some titebond and made a paste to fill the pin holes and then let it sit to dry.

Started and finished the boards for the foredeck. Set aside for the night to let the glue fully cure before taking the pins out and getting it to shape.

Hardest part will be finding the time to go to the Fiberglass supplier and picking up the mat that I need. I have the resin from doing some fiberglass work in my ute.
Mar 25, 2017, 09:30 AM
The wind is free, go sailing!
Scratchy101's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk25
Hardest part will be finding the time to go to the Fiberglass supplier and picking up the mat that I need. I have the resin from doing some fiberglass work in my ute.
Just some words of advice when fiberglassing.
Use FG cloth, not mat and use 2 part epoxy, not Polyester resin.
A very thin single layer of lightweight cloth is all that is required.
http://www.fibreglast.com/product/2_...erglass_Fabric

Make sure to squeegee/scrape out all excess resin and let it set, otherwise you will be adding extra weight from the resin as the cloth will float on top.
Then add a generous cover coat of epoxy and let that set, before you start sanding, otherwise you will sand through the cloth.

BTW, I will be building an IOM using edgetape veneer, but I have to finish building my portable dust collector/band saw stand first, before i can start,
I will be starting a build log here to document the process.

Art
Mar 25, 2017, 11:17 AM
Registered User
Hey Dirk25

From your recent several forum posts ....
Several things are more clear - especially your ability to jump in and rapidly make progress - working in a shop with access to tools n equipment "REST OF US COULD ONLY DREAM OF HAVING" ...

As well as ... being 25yrs old and single (still doing this hobby and chasing the girls) ... makes sense to me now how you are able to do all this progress - and - forum postings (vs me at 55yrs and married with 5 yr daughter ) ...

KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK - especially forum postings here ... Many are watching and learning some new things for future builds - hoping to make easier and available materials vs extensive and expensive tools.

From the above forum posts ...
Looks like you and Scratchy101 will soon be considering projects where hull planking construction will use "Real Wood Edgeband Veneer". This will be great to watch and benefit everyone.
Mar 26, 2017, 02:22 AM
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Dirk25's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scratchy101
Just some words of advice when fiberglassing.
Use FG cloth, not mat and use 2 part epoxy, not Polyester resin.
A very thin single layer of lightweight cloth is all that is required.
http://www.fibreglast.com/product/2_...erglass_Fabric

Make sure to squeegee/scrape out all excess resin and let it set, otherwise you will be adding extra weight from the resin as the cloth will float on top.
Then add a generous cover coat of epoxy and let that set, before you start sanding, otherwise you will sand through the cloth.

BTW, I will be building an IOM using edgetape veneer, but I have to finish building my portable dust collector/band saw stand first, before i can start,
I will be starting a build log here to document the process.

Art
Thanks for that. I have the 2 pack epoxy resin. I was just looking at all the different types of cloth and was just about to ring a mate that's in the boat building game. Now I don't have to.

Unreal mate, we should be able to bounce a few ideas and tips around for everyone else once we get started on them.
I have to finish this one first though so I wont be in a hurry to start the next one.



Quote:
Originally Posted by slo.ca6
Hey Dirk25

From your recent several forum posts ....
Several things are more clear - especially your ability to jump in and rapidly make progress - working in a shop with access to tools n equipment "REST OF US COULD ONLY DREAM OF HAVING" ...

As well as ... being 25yrs old and single (still doing this hobby and chasing the girls) ... makes sense to me now how you are able to do all this progress - and - forum postings (vs me at 55yrs and married with 5 yr daughter ) ...

KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK - especially forum postings here ... Many are watching and learning some new things for future builds - hoping to make easier and available materials vs extensive and expensive tools.

From the above forum posts ...
Looks like you and Scratchy101 will soon be considering projects where hull planking construction will use "Real Wood Edgeband Veneer". This will be great to watch and benefit everyone.
Hahahaha I'm glad you guys are enjoying it.
I am having a ball and I love getting back into remote control stuff. I used to race at a state level in 2wdrive and 4wdrive 1/10th off-road buggies. That was at least 10 years ago. Still got all that equipment and it's all in perfect working order which is good fun every now and again when I pull it out.

I'm not to sure how you guys all fit your planks but the most useful tool for doing this is a block plane and a Stanley knife. Make sure they are sharp though! I never touched one with sandpaper. I only used sandpaper after I finished shaping it with a block plane.

I don't know how well I can keep up this process doing it this fast as work is ridiculously busy and I might have to work back till really late.
So that may slow me down.

On the up side I bought a heap of gear this arvo.

1 / The Australian import of the OrangeRx T-SIX 2.4GHz DSM2 Compatible 6CH Transmitter
1 / S603 2.4GHz 6ch Receiver ( came with Transmitter)
1 / Cool looking Camo Transmitter bag
2 / Zippy Compact 850mAH 2cell 7.4v 25c Lipo Batteries for the Transmitter
2 / Zippy Compact 1300mAH 2cell 7.4v 25c Lipo Batteries for the Boat
I have 3 chargers and 4 Lipo sacks already so didn't think I needed any more.
2 / 9kg, 0.17sec at 4.8v Metal gear digital servos (came as a pack of 2)

Now all I need is a RMG 290EF Smart winch and the RMG switch
and that's the electric's done.

Cheers
D.
Mar 26, 2017, 06:06 AM
gp.
gp.
gp
gp.'s Avatar
Dirk25,
Ripping work, great having some passing on their well honed skills, sorry about your club experience, my personal experience is totally opposite old hands have be helpfull.
Have a great day
Mar 26, 2017, 08:49 PM
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coolmobility's Avatar
Hey Dirk, great build that is coming along so fast with tools you have access to . Now comes the time and thought provoking business of insides and fitout.

I use same Zippy boat battery and find it gives a full day's sail with RMG and no problem or switch required, good choice.

Re your servo, it can be good preventative measure to cover with Liquid Electrical Tape or some other elastomeric material to waterproof it. I use cheap MG servos too but first pack the electronics at bottom and gears at top with Lanolin grease. Once then sealed they last for years, even if drowned, provided you protect plug contacts and Rx with Inox or Corrosion X. Prevention much better than having to rescue a boat. Small jobs you should be able to fit in between girls and work :-)

Love the posts. Would be great to see the finished boat sometime.

Note: I love those remanufactured veneers too. could look really cool on a hull. I designed a reception desk in the black/grey about 20 years ago (when they first came out), and it always drew comments.
Mar 30, 2017, 05:24 AM
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Dirk25's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gp.
Dirk25,
Ripping work, great having some passing on their well honed skills, sorry about your club experience, my personal experience is totally opposite old hands have be helpfull.
Have a great day

Thanks.

They were much better this Tuesday. The local IOM boat builder (Scott) was there and they were actually racing and not stuffing around.
There were a few words said about the Windstar again by 2 guys and they quickly shut up when Scott said that Brad Gibson took 1st in the UK IOM Ranking Race in 2007 and then 7th in the UK National Championship 2007 with that exact boat (different rig and sails).
I think they were a bit taken back then and kept to themselves.

Afterwards I had a decent discussion with Scott and we worked out we had actually done some work for him. (he's a carpenter) and his factory is down the road.
That led to exchanging of phone numbers and he said to call him Friday to see if he's going to be around on Saturday in his factory so he can show me a few tips and tricks on building rigs and trying to setup the Windstar to prove to these guys that it has what it takes.
He WAS the youngest of the group and is now happy that he's not anymore
He was also happy that I am building a IOM and he told me where he get's all his fittings, rig parts and sails from.
He also said that next week if it's not raining he would bring along one of his hire out IOM and let me have a good go of it with them and he hinted that he wants to get rid of it to make room for a new design that's in the pipeline.

Complete turn around from the few weeks before and I am actually starting to think that these guys gave up on the younger generation getting into their sport but are now starting to come around again. I'd say as a few more weeks past, these blokes will get used to me being there and they will lighten up a little.


Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmobility
Hey Dirk, great build that is coming along so fast with tools you have access to . Now comes the time and thought provoking business of insides and fitout.

I use same Zippy boat battery and find it gives a full day's sail with RMG and no problem or switch required, good choice.

Re your servo, it can be good preventative measure to cover with Liquid Electrical Tape or some other elastomeric material to waterproof it. I use cheap MG servos too but first pack the electronics at bottom and gears at top with Lanolin grease. Once then sealed they last for years, even if drowned, provided you protect plug contacts and Rx with Inox or Corrosion X. Prevention much better than having to rescue a boat. Small jobs you should be able to fit in between girls and work :-)

Love the posts. Would be great to see the finished boat sometime.

Note: I love those remanufactured veneers too. could look really cool on a hull. I designed a reception desk in the black/grey about 20 years ago (when they first came out), and it always drew comments.
That's awesome to know I've chosen the right batteries then. No switch Yippee
Awesome advice I will do that to save them from any damage. This will be a dry boat so I'm not to worried about the water. I didn't mention I also Cut vinyl stickers at work so I have all the gear to make fancy hatches and logos and numbers and things for the boat.

I'm having trouble fitting just the work into my life at the moment. No time for girls as I have a IOM to build...hahaha

I received my transmitter, transmitter bag and batteries today. Waiting to hear back from Rmg winches with an invoice so I can get that going. Also waiting on the servos.

Sanded the hull and it looks mint. I sanded with 80g then I'll go down the grits till I get to 320g. Then for the fiberglass cloth which I still need to get.
I have sanded the foredeck down to 180g. I have decided after rubbing Metho on the hull that the colour jumps out at you if I just leave it Cedar. So I may not stain it after all but I'm thinking of painting the foredeck, deck, rudder and keel white (or another colour) to give it some contrast.
Mar 30, 2017, 08:53 AM
Registered User
A critical factor for the success of an IOM is the keel fin. No matter what the hull shape, a fin that twists or otherwise deflects too much or that is too fat or too skinny will kill performance. Ask Scott where he sources his fins. It's an art to make a good one.
Mar 30, 2017, 12:17 PM
Registered User
That is a good point Tom. When BG made his run with the widget, didn't he use modern foils?
Mar 30, 2017, 12:59 PM
Registered User
That's no real secret: a David Creed fin/foil is all you need.


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