Thread Tools
Mar 22, 2017, 06:31 AM
Registered User
Dirk25's Avatar
Build Log

Down Under - Race Ready II


Race Ready II being built In Australia. By Me!

I am a Cabinetmaker, Joiner and Carpenter.
I am 25yrs old and I work in the family owned and run business in Sydney, Australia.

I have always been into and around boats and I built my first IOM Robbe Windstar when I was 13-14.

I thought it was time to do another nice project and what better than to do a IOM that I can actually race at club events up the road every Tuesday when I have the time.

So here It goes...
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Mar 22, 2017, 06:45 AM
Registered User
Dirk25's Avatar
I acquired these plans last week and have been pondering if I should make it or just buy an old v9 that's for sale.
Went down the local waterways and found the Tuesday arvo club meet and had a chat to the guys. Long story short they laughed at my Robbe Windstar and I got a fire in my belly.

Left the meet and went straight back to work to get started finding and cutting some Cedar.
I calmed down when I'm working with timber so it was a good stress relief right away.
Mar 22, 2017, 06:59 AM
Registered User
Dirk25's Avatar
All that was done last night.

So tonight I got the CNC machine working on cutting the profiles out in 4mm ply.
I am cheating...ALOT

Enjoy.

I was going to upload a video of the CNC cutting the profiles but it wont let me.

That was tonight's effort.
Work may get in the way of my afternoon's / night's soon so be patient as I try my best to keep it going.

Cheers
Dirk.
Mar 22, 2017, 10:55 AM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar


I wish I had a real shop with real tooling. This is going to be very interesting to watch and a great learning experience for me. I'm sure your experience with woodworking will bring many new ideas to the build.
Mar 22, 2017, 11:48 AM
Barry D USA 747
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjensen


I wish I had a real shop with real tooling. This is going to be very interesting to watch and a great learning experience for me. I'm sure your experience with woodworking will bring many new ideas to the build.
Yes, I wish I had a real shop too!!
Mar 22, 2017, 08:44 PM
Registered User
Dirk25's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjensen


I wish I had a real shop with real tooling. This is going to be very interesting to watch and a great learning experience for me. I'm sure your experience with woodworking will bring many new ideas to the build.
Will be a good experience for me as well. I was actually thinking of using .4mm hand engineered veneer edge tape and then glass over both sides.
Might give it a try before I start the cedar.
I could double it up to .8mm.

I can tell you that you wouldn't like the cost of all the tooling and machinery. I only get the benefit because my father has been doing it for almost 40 years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sightline
Yes, I wish I had a real shop too!!
I wish I had more space too
Mar 22, 2017, 10:19 PM
Registered User

Im in


I'm in
Mike

Mar 23, 2017, 01:26 AM
Registered User
Hey Dirk25

Saw your forum post to this thread above where you mentioned using ..."hand engineered veneer edgband tape"

Something like you mentioned above is what I posted previous as SUGGESTION on other postings ... like noted here (and other forum threads)

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...7#post37160352
Last edited by slo.ca6; Mar 23, 2017 at 02:01 AM.
Mar 23, 2017, 06:00 AM
Registered User
Dirk25's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by slo.ca6
Hey Dirk25

Saw your forum post to this thread above where you mentioned using ..."hand engineered veneer edgband tape"

Something like you mentioned above is what I posted previous as SUGGESTION on other postings ... like noted here (and other forum threads)

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...7#post37160352
Slo.ca6
The only thing wrong with the edge tape is that anything less than about 0.8mm becomes to floppy when bending it over profiles.

The next yacht I do I am thinking of using 1-1.5mm either balsa or cedar and then use the 0.4mm engineered veneer over the top just for looks then really thin glass layers inside and out.

This IOM I am building now is a "starter" to see how well it goes when done fast and good appose to taking my time and doing it perfect. That will come later.

I gathered that in the game I'm in I can chop and change and build hulls as much as I want to and just use the same running gear and rigs on all of them till I find the perfect combo that suits the way I sail and the conditions I have available.
Mar 23, 2017, 06:45 AM
Registered User
Dirk25's Avatar
So tonight's effort was to start on the hull.

Now I know a lot of you are thinking why.....Why did he do something like that!

Reason for me doing it this way is its fast, it is easy to hold the joints as tight as possible and I like seeing full boards from the deck down. Under the water line I don't care about to much and in the beginning before I cut up the all the cedar I decided that I would use some grey stain over the top.
(will take a pic of the cedar stained grey test piece for all to see when I get back in to work in the morning)

It is also how a lot of kayak/ smaller boat builders do it. Although they leave and fill the nail holes. I am going to pull the pins out and fill them.

The headless pins are 0.64mm so they produce a very small hole.
The glue I used is Titebond III because I have a lot of it in the cupboard and its great stuff.

Might not look like anything special now but at least I get to show you all how it is at its worst stage.

Hope your all enjoying this build...
Mar 23, 2017, 10:12 AM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
Keep the updates coming. Looks good so far but be aware the chine line is a curve so when you sand be careful to match both sides
Mar 23, 2017, 11:04 AM
Registered User
Dirk25

Just an FYI ...
There are a wild range of suppliers for edgband tape materials of real wood veneer ... as I noted on other forum posts (Google search)

In particular ... edgband comes in THICKNESS from 1mm to as much as 3mm ... as well as ... down as thin as 0.020"with standard thickness of 0.060" and 0.080"

I to had original interest as you noted ...
Build balsa plank-on-frame ... then add on ... an additional top thin real wood veneer planking ... with final 0.5 oz glass layer for water seal n strength.

Using edgband real wood veneer was also something I considered when doing non-structural deck planking.

Will be watching your build ...

Always good to see what others are doing and sharing ideas to make improvements ... especially sharing lessons learned to make things easier for others getting started (and old dogs learn new tricks) ... I am in then latter group (ole dog)

All the best n success in your build
Mar 24, 2017, 07:30 AM
Registered User
coolmobility's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk25
Slo.ca6
The only thing wrong with the edge tape is that anything less than about 0.8mm becomes too floppy when bending it over profiles.

The next yacht I do I am thinking of using 1-1.5mm either balsa or cedar and then use the 0.4mm engineered veneer over the top just for looks then really thin glass layers inside and out.

This IOM I am building now is a "starter" to see how well it goes when done fast and good opposed to taking my time and doing it perfect. That will come later.

I gathered that in the game I'm in I can chop and change and build hulls as much as I want to and just use the same running gear and rigs on all of them till I find the perfect combo that suits the way I sail and the conditions I have available.
Hi Dirk, just as an example, here are pics of a Dragon hull (my CAD designed stations) built in USA out of balsa, then mahogany veneer laid down over that. There are some difficult compound curves to plank and balsa is more flexible to follow curves without steaming.

Stations were laser cut in Canada, contracted to Milton in USA to do CAD work, and model built by Herb Miller in Florida (I think). Know it is not an IOM, but is a way to build a light but classy timber hull. This Dragon is 48" long but have a modified design 59" long (1:6) also designed for 3mm stations. Did this before becoming addicted to IOMs.

If you are ever down Gippsland way, give us a shout to go sailing. Cheers.
Last edited by coolmobility; Mar 24, 2017 at 07:37 AM.
Mar 24, 2017, 07:42 AM
Registered User
coolmobility's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk25
All that was done last night.

So tonight I got the CNC machine working on cutting the profiles out in 4mm ply.
I am cheating...ALOT

I was going to upload a video of the CNC cutting the profiles but it won't let me.

That was tonight's effort.
Work may get in the way of my afternoon's / night's soon so be patient as I try my best to keep it going.

Cheers
Dirk.
Dirk, if you want to show a video, you need to publish to Youtube, Vimeo, etc first then you just insert the link. We'd love to see your gear working. What CAD software do you work with? David J. and I use AutoCad. All the best with your build and make those critical old farts eat crow.
Colin
Mar 24, 2017, 10:54 AM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
I gave Dirk the dxf file for the laser/router cutting.


Thread Tools