S&B P-51 metal covering - RC Groups
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Feb 14, 2002, 02:44 PM
Faded away

S&B P-51 metal covering

Well, the delivery on my S&B Me-163c is still a question as restocks from out of the US are taking a long time. So, I ordered a S&B P-51 the EAM still had in stock. I'm not going to start the BalsaCraft FW-190 yet and may eventually sell it.

On ths S&B website, they show photos of a couple of P-51's with a natural metal finish. Anyone know what was used?

The only things that come to mind would be metal tape and I know that is heavy or aluminum foil applied like contact paper using an adhesive available from MicroScale.

I want to keep weight down, obviously, but that metal finish is sharp looking.

Power wise, I'm sticking with S&B's recommendations... 6V 400 to start and MAYBE a 480 later.

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Feb 14, 2002, 02:56 PM
Ascended Master
Sparky Paul's Avatar
There's an aluminum MonoKote. And Chrome.. don't use THAT!
1) the plane disappears against the sky while it's still close..
2) the antenna MUST be outside the airplane where it's not "hidden" from the transmitter. (up thru the cockpit to the fin tip works best.)
Chrome makes good "canopies" though as long as you don't want to show anything in the cockpit.
Feb 14, 2002, 03:51 PM
Registered User
davidfee's Avatar
Are the S&B kits foam? If you first give the model a "skin" of water-based polyurethane and very light glass, then I'd suggest trying the Model Master "Metalizer" colors from Testors. They are airbrush paints which come in buffing and non-buffing flavors, so you can get very realistic looking metal finishes, without all the weight of an iron-on film or metal foil.

Just a thought...
Feb 14, 2002, 04:23 PM
Faded away
Originally posted by davidfee
I'd suggest trying the Model Master "Metalizer" colors from Testors.
Being a developed plastic aircraft modeler, I know about and have many of the Metalizer paints. The possible problem there is getting a smooth enough surface after applying the glass and polyurthane to make it work. The surface really won't be able to have any texture or it will mess up the look. I'm concerned it would take several thin coat of the poly on the glass to hide any texture and then might not I get into weight trouble?

I have planned on glassing the wings anyway. I'll probablypl;ay with some extra EPP applying Aluminum monokote and glassing and then painting a different piece and see what there is to be seen!

Feb 14, 2002, 04:29 PM
Faded away
Originally posted by Sparky Paul
There's an aluminum MonoKote. And Chrome.. don't use THAT!
1) the plane disappears against the sky while it's still close..
I wonder if aluminum foil is lighter than the aluminum monokote?

If I go with the metal finish I want to copy either the 'Ain't Misbehavin'...

or the 'Big Beautiful Doll'...

Both of which have significant amounts of black to make them more visible.

Feb 14, 2002, 05:10 PM
Fight On!
mario alvarez's Avatar
Too bad you are not building the Me163 (yet). I received my Spit as well as my IC friend's ME163 today.

I'm also a plastic modeler at heart and I know what a bitch it is to get a natural aluminum finish on a model. Thats why most of my plastic model airplanes wear camouflage. BBD is a long time favorite, but you might want to check out Bud Anderson's P-51D "Old Crow"or Robert Welch's "Miss Marilyn" both have a lot of OD on natural Aluminum. They would be easier to see in the air.

Feb 14, 2002, 05:46 PM
MAAC 6251
Fibafilm comes in an aluminum finish. This has no adhesive on the back so you use Balsa Loc which is water based. Don't use Balsarite from Coverite , it desolves foam. Fibafilm is about half the weight of monokote and Balsa Loc works at a low temperature. Balsa Poducts has Fibafilm and Balsa Loc.
Feb 14, 2002, 05:48 PM
Faded away
The 163 is somewhere between EAM's office and Australia with no idea how long it will be. I ordered the P-51 today because he had it on hand and left the 163 on order.

I'm looing forward to the release of the Me-262 (probably within a month or so as per S&B).

Feb 14, 2002, 06:22 PM
AMA 670207
Rudderman98's Avatar
I used a combination of chrome Ultracote and Flite Metal on my Titanic B-29 which is on this forum and I have had NO trouble with interference whatsoever and my antennae is IN the fuse with just a hair of it poking out the tail.

I suppose the reason that iterference is nil on my plane is because the motors are on the outside of the fuse with the esc in front of the nose and the rx mid fuse so there is lots of separation between the components reducing RF noise.

Flite metal is really easy to work with and the details you can add are striking. It gets a bit heavy if used too much throughout the entire plane, that is why the '29 is covered with both. You can burnish Ultracote to look like weathered or distressed aluminum skin.
Last edited by Rudderman98; Feb 14, 2002 at 06:39 PM.
Feb 16, 2002, 04:58 PM
Registered User
I used the Chrone Monokote on my HERR P-51D and let me say that I absolutely love that stuff! No interference, nor is it at all difficult to locate in the air. It really produces an absolutely beautiful finish. The S&B P-51 looks pretty good, but the Herr P-51 is far more substantial...it's also cheaper!
Feb 18, 2002, 12:03 AM
Registered User
Archer's Avatar
Variation on topic. I just bought the S&B TA152. I did not like the idea of taping a warbird, and monocote looked lke it would rip or pull away if the EPP foam bent too much.
I went out and bought white pantyhose and just finished appling it tonight to the fuse. Silky smooth (pun intended) white holds paint well. flexes with the EPP and no wrinkles.
Probably not right for a smooth metal finish is silver but works well for other colors.

Anyone tried this before?
Feb 18, 2002, 08:20 AM
Faded away
Great idea! Maybe applying polyuthane (acrylic type) to the fabric in VERY LIGHT coats will give a smooth but light finish.

Now what we need to know is which gives the smoothest, silkiest finish? ... and then you will have to explain how you know!


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