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Mar 13, 2017, 09:30 AM
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Value Hobby Giant Easy Stik...My Observations


I have a collection of Moki's and SuperTigre engines. Most of them were used and I was unwilling to put them into anything too expensive without putting them in the air first. I needed an engine test mule and it had to be relatively inexpensive. After looking around I found the Value Hobby Giant Stik and thought it might do the job. It has an 84" wingspan and calls for a 160 2c/30cc gas and a weight of 12-15lbs. It is set up for one elevator servo and one rudder servo, both rear mounted.

When I examined the goods, I found a slight ding on the top of the fuse behind the wing. The plane was not packed very well and I'm surprised there wasn't more damage. One unique feature is they split the fuse in two pieces so it will fit in a smaller box. Four bolts hold both fuse halves together. For those that have smaller vehicles , breaking it down is certainly viable for transport.

As with any ARF, I knew it would need some structural reinforcement. I'm sure it was primarily designed for electric. The firewall, wing hold-down and landing gear were all woefully inadequate for any type of IC engine. Luckily all are easily strengthened with some 1/4" aircraft ply. I added the ply to the front of the existing firewall, reinforced with some triangle stock and pinned the new firewall with chopsticks. The front wing hold-down and landing gear reinforcement were easy and did not require any other modifications to the structure.

The wing dowels were 4mm carbon fiber rod. I could not tell how deep into wing they were set so I pulled them out and replaced with two 3/8" hardwood dowels. That bought a lot of piece of mind as the carbon fiber crumbled when I removed them.
Unfortunately the rear stabs are built up and not sheeted. Most Stiks come out nose-heavy and the Value Hobby Giant Stik is no exception. I knew a Moki 2.10 was going to stress the tail feathers at anything over half throttle. I fashioned "flying wires" out of 4-40 theaded rod, carbon fiber rod to slip over the 4-40 and some leftover control horns. I also added some hardwood triangle stock on both horiz and verticle stab, I needed the weight anyway. This seems to be working fine, but I still keep the airspeed down until I get around to adding some carbon fiber to stiffen the tail structure even further.

One other mod I performed was to bevel the top of the flap segments so I could couple the flaps to the elevator and/or ailerons. I carefully peeled back the covering and resealed after beveling. It took less than 1/2 hour and gives me a lot of new features to play with.

FLYING

After installing a 20oz tank and a Perry pump, the used Moki was running pretty well. Who says you can't get good deals on that "Bay" site? The maiden was uneventful and she flew like a Big O'l Puddy-tat except she was a nose-heavy pig at the suggested CG! I hard a hard time slowing her down until I added another stick of lead weights under the tail. Since the Maiden I've set up CROW and a Flap to Elevator mix. I also chopped off the swoopy wing-tips so characteristic of Stiks and left the wings rectangular. This alone doubled the roll rate and I no longer feel the need to mix the flaps to the ailerons just yet.
As you can imagine, the performance with the Moki 2.10 is spectacular! It can take off in 10' and continue to accelerate straight up. With a slightly longer takeoff roll, I can be at our club's 400' limit in about 5 seconds. It will hover at about 1/3 throttle. I'm finding that I am using the CROW more than I thought I would. Our field has some trees that are infringing on our landing approach. With Crow, I can safely clear the trees, dive, and still make a spot landing.

In all, the Value Hobby Giant Stik is working just fine for me, especially considering the price. I have less money tied up in the Giant Stik than I do in my .40 size Stik believe it or not. I may just pick up one of those new-fangled 35cc gas engines and see what all the fuss is about.
Last edited by warhwk; Mar 13, 2017 at 09:57 AM.
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Mar 13, 2017, 09:37 PM
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marmalade1's Avatar
Great review!
Glad the modifications worked out.

How is the weight difference between the Moki and say a DLE35?

The plane looks great.

PD
Mar 14, 2017, 08:30 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
The base engine weights are different. The Moki is 46oz while the DLE 35RA is only 33oz. The Moki needs to carry more fuel (20oz) and probably makes a bit more power. I'm getting 8300 rpm with an APC 20-8. Factor in the tailweight needed for the Moki and I bet the performance would be nearly identical. The DLE 35 could be almost 2lbs lighter in flying configuration.

Now if I were to shorten the nose of the stick and lose a pound of tailweight, things would be very different.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marmalade1
Great review!
Glad the modifications worked out.

How is the weight difference between the Moki and say a DLE35?

The plane looks great.

PD
May 21, 2017, 09:44 PM
Registered User
Looks like they are not available. Out of stock from value hobby. Any other outlets for that size Stik?
Thanks
Joe
May 22, 2017, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marphoto
Looks like they are not available. Out of stock from value hobby. Any other outlets for that size Stik?
Thanks
Joe
The Great Planes Giant Stik is the only other large Stik ARF I know of. http://www.towerhobbies.com/products.../gpma1224.html

Edit...Oh Wait... I forgot about the Hangar 9 30cc stick https://www.horizonhobby.com/ultra-s...cc-arf-han2365
Last edited by warhwk; May 22, 2017 at 08:31 AM.
May 23, 2017, 08:58 AM
<>< AKA W4BPS

Value stick. I found one on line..


Xtra Large Giant Ugly Stick (7 min 26 sec)


Got this from a nice gent in Ky. Put a DLE 35 RA on it. I'm not great flyer. Just a bit of a hot dog. The Value Stick will fly much better than I can fly. Brian
Jul 05, 2017, 04:09 PM
Registered User

Precautionary warning


I finally got out this weekend and flew my Giant Easy Stick with an NGH 38cc 4 stroke,

Flew nicely, not overpowered but flew well. I took it around the bean patch a couple of times, did a loop and set up a landing. I am lucky I did because when I taxied it in I noticed a gap between the two wing halves.

On returning to the pits I found that the wing had lost BOTH front pins holding the wing in place. The only thing keeping my plane from becoming a lawn dart was the overhang at the top of the LE. It turns out that the wing pins only go about 1/2-3/4" into the LE which is not enough glued area to hold them.
I will install a couple of pieces of 1/4 balsa and glue them in front of the front anti rotation pins and drill them so I can put pins THROUGH the LE and back to the balsa blocks then firmly epoxy them in place.

I got lucky this time!

D.H.
Jul 05, 2017, 05:07 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

Precautionary warning #2


In earlier posts, I mentioned the areas that I reinforced. Firewall, landing gear, wing hold-down and tail-bracing. The tail was stiffened with carbon fiber rod and I finally felt secure enough to open up the Moki 2.10 and see what she could do.

At full honk I did a lazy upright snap-roll, then did the same with an outside snap-roll. In a blink, I saw two pieces of the Stik where there used to be one.

The fuse had separated where the two fuse halves connect. During the postmortem inspection, the bulkhead containing the blind nuts had pulled out of the front half of the fuse. There was not any reinforcement in this area. I thought I had covered all my bases, but neglected to think about the middle of the fuselage. A couple pieces of triangle stock and epoxy would have prevented the unwanted separation.

I knew what I was buying and I can kick myself for not thinking about beefing up the fuse. Unfortunately, the plane was a write-off except for the pristine rear fuse and tail feathers.
Jul 05, 2017, 05:40 PM
Engine man
dmrcflyr2's Avatar
I have had 3 Value Hobby Easy Stik 60's. I lost two due to circumstances NOT related to the quality of the airplane. With that being said, I love these Easy Stik airplanes for the price, quality, ease of assembly, and flight performance. They are not what I would consider a long term airplane, meaning don't expect to be flying it 5 years down the road. The quality of the wood and glue joints that cannot be reached and reinforced are just not there compared to a 'real' built up kit. They are 2-3 season airplanes at most, but the price point also dictates that.

I too have considered the Giant Easy Stik for my ASP 1.6 twin 4 stroke, but after reading this thread I will not be taking a chance on that. I believe with the wood quality anything larger than a 60 is just too risky. A better quality ARF or rather a kit built airplane is much less risk for larger engines, IMO. I also purposely do not do high G maneuvers such as snap rolls with this airplane. I just don't feel that airframe can handle it, and after reading the post above, warranted to not do that.

I too when over EVERY glue joint I could reach with Titbond wood glue and/or epoxy. I installed another 3/16" aircraft ply firewall on top of the one on the airplane just to hold my Saito 100T engine.
Jul 05, 2017, 06:07 PM
Mumbling in the corner.
flyboy2610's Avatar
Sorry about your plane! That's one of the reasons I prefer to build it myself if possible. Unfortunately, these planes in this size only come as ARF's. Eventually I want to get a Great Planes Giant Stik.
I know there will be some reinforcement work to do on it. Always is.
Jul 05, 2017, 06:58 PM
<>< AKA W4BPS

Ouch.


Sorry to hear that about any model. Brian


QUOTE=warhwk;37853107]In earlier posts, I mentioned the areas that I reinforced. Firewall, landing gear, wing hold-down and tail-bracing. The tail was stiffened with carbon fiber rod and I finally felt secure enough to open up the Moki 2.10 and see what she could do.

At full honk I did a lazy upright snap-roll, then did the same with an outside snap-roll. In a blink, I saw two pieces of the Stik where there used to be one.

The fuse had separated where the two fuse halves connect. During the postmortem inspection, the bulkhead containing the blind nuts had pulled out of the front half of the fuse. There was not any reinforcement in this area. I thought I had covered all my bases, but neglected to think about the middle of the fuselage. A couple pieces of triangle stock and epoxy would have prevented the unwanted separation.

I knew what I was buying and I can kick myself for not thinking about beefing up the fuse. Unfortunately, the plane was a write-off except for the pristine rear fuse and tail feathers.[/QUOTE]


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