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Pictures
SC,
Here is what you need to eassily re size your pics. http://www.irfanview.com/ I have used this thing for years and they have always improved it. Besides, It's free! Roger |
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24" guillows conversion
Hi Glenn,
Thanks for stopping by! I saw the blue Bird products last night. They were a banner for one of the discussion groups. I am glad to see more small things being put on the market. I gust got some 3 mm CF rods, so I will plan to use that. Did you run it through the formers like in the drawing that Jacob did? I'm up for a tiny light weight RX!! That sounds great!! How is the flying? Any bad WX yet? Take Care! Roger |
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Sounds liekthe ticket but I'm a shameless mac user - at least I think it won't go on macs - it asks which version of windows I'm using.
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Programs
SC,
I sure don't know where to send you for Mac things. I'm sure there are programs out there. Do you have anything to re size the pics? I often crop and post just what I want. That keeps the size down, too. Roger |
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Roger
Just started a google for some free-ware looks like allot of possabilites for PC guys and a few for macs. i can crop in I photo - like down to 4x6 - or so it says - the pixel x pixel size changes but not the file size - just need to sit down and wade throught the maze of programs and see...... I've got some tieme today so we'll see.... Thanks for the input and hopefully I'll get this sorted out. It's absolutly pouring out here right now . guess it's happy Building! Joe |
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Quote:
Blue Bird is a different brand; I was talking about the Blue Arrow servos...and they are nice indeed. I have no experience with Blue Bird brand stuff. As to CF rods, to be honest 3mm is way overkill, they'd look pretty chunky on the smaller models you've been discussing. I used 2mm in my 30" Northrop Alpha and 34.5" Stuka, and I even used 1mm in my big ol' 14 oz. GWS Zero with no problems at all. I suggest 1 or 2mm rods with 0.02" wire ends. Make your own plywood control horns from 1/32" ply and drill them with about a #74 (0.0225") pin drill and you'll have super fine, clean hookups with no slop These rods are so light I felt no need to run them through the formers. They're mighty stiff too, especially the 2mm ones, so no worries about flexing. The only rod I've run through formers was the 0.5mm rod I intended for tailwheel steering on the Stuka. The only problem there was I made vertical part of the wire's 'L' bend (see pic) that passes through the tiny plywood tailwheel cam too short, and it popped out the first time the tailwheel caught on the concrete while I was positioning the plane for photographs...I'll do the same again on the next steerable tailwheel I make, but I'll just make the wire a bit longer. a few millimeters extra of 0.02" wire is NOT going to add any measurable weight; my own fault there for not allowing for a bit of flex room. 0.5mm rods are cool for operating stuff like tailwheels and ailerons and I expect they'd be perfect if run through wing ribs for bomb/tank drops and so on. As long as they're supported every 1-1 1/2" they won't flex unduly. With all due respect to SpaceCadet, I recommend simple decent quality 1/16" contest stock replacement balsa formers rather than the laminated ones he's mentioned. Aside from being a fair amount of extra work, any extra strength should come from substituting bass for the 1/16" balsa stringers instead...which also keeps you from crushing your heavier-than-FF fuselage when you pick it up, an absolutely essential mod with these FF conversions, IMO. At the risk of repeating myself, my 5 channel Stuka had bass replacing EVERY stringer, wings included, as well as a bass TE on the wing, LE on the horizontal stabilizer, as well as other applications, I never hogged out one former or wing rib, yet the whole thing weighs 12.8 oz AUW. Strategic use of materials will save loads of weight while adding plenty of strength, all without working yourself to death to get there. I will work myself to death if necessary (wait'll you see the dummy Argus engine I'm making for my AerodromeRC Halberstadt, criminy, over 60 scratched parts of sheet, rod and tube styrene plus aluminum exhaust tube{!}) but basically I'm a lazy slob. I won't sacrifice security or functionality, but if there's an easier way to do something I'm all for it In any event, remember to only use cotton or silk thread to secure the wire to the CF rods, as CA won't stick right to synthetic, and use THIN CA to soak the wrapped thread; thick won't penetrate them properly. Use thick CA afterwards to give the joint a cleaner, glossier look if you wish. R/C or full size flying? Weather here's been ugly and windy, so I haven't flown R/C in a week or so. Last night was pretty beastly for full size flying too, going across the line of level 3-5 storms across middle TN between me and Atlanta...FOUR TIMES, sheesh. Like riding in a washing machine with a strobe light going off Later, eh, good luck! Glenn |
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Last edited by mu2freighter; Oct 19, 2004 at 02:11 PM.
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Ok let's try this..... Here's a couple picks, hopefully compressed nicely into thumbnails? the fuselage of cub #1, and a pick of the super ply experimental former
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CF Rods
Glenn,
Man, did I goof!! The rods I have are .03 mm, not 3 mm! Such a difference! Thanks for the tip on the thread finish at the ends. Since there may be two blue brands, I will need to see what I saw again to realy know. Yes, I was asking about the Night Job!! Do be careful!! TNX, Roger |
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Upper Rear Fuse Stringer
SpaceCadet,
The pics are great! I wish they were a little larger. You will get there. Since you and Jacob have both arrived at this place, let me check to see what to do before going on. I am ready to put the upper rear fuselage stringer on and was not sure if it is to be cut at "A", or at the end of the fuselage at "B". If it does extent to the end, where and how is it to be terminated? It does not have anything to really glue to. Maybe I just need to glue it so it's level with the top of A-2, at the end of the fuselage. I hope I'm clear. "?" Thanks, Roger |
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Roger,
The J-3 cub i'm working on is slightly different in the rear, but from your pic it looks like it terminates at B - the end of the fuse. you need to put a nice sharp angle cut on the end of the stringer so it has a nice face for glue (see my cub pic below- hopefully that will help) and I think I have a better handle on the photo bit so you can see em' better. Just stopped at the local LHS for a buch of covering supplies and am doing the finall sanding now! |
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Quote:
cut it at 'B,' you need a base for your horizontal stabilizer! Cut it flush with the keel, then use vertical 1/16" stock to fill the space between stringers at the keel and give your covering something to grab. Look at how I did it at the very aft end of the Stuka fuse posted earlier. Glenn |
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Fuse End Stringers
SC,
I sure like your work! I will make the angle cuts on the inside like I think you did. That does make a nice finish. I wish I had learned to do that as a kid. I remember all of my builds like this always had a thick end. Your fuse is nicely shaped. Sanding! I dread the thought. I will have to go outside to sand everything. I hope it's not bad weather when I get to that!! What are you going to cover with? Roger |
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Fuse End
Glenn,
I think you were posting while I was writing!! I can't believe that I have missed a good finish on this all of these years. "Live and learn!!" Thanks, Roger |
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It's getting covered with cover-lite from cover-rite - the local E-flight favorite - it's supposed to take paint really well and is very strong gonna try white glue instead of toxic -rite to prep the wood as well, so we'll see! anybody out there have good advice for getting a sweet windshield job? - I think the kit cut out's on the money, but it's gonna take some patience to get it right - my Idea was to glue it on in parts with 100% Silicone for fuel sealing purposes (Silicone is one hell of a glue by the way)
My old R/C mentor when I was a kid always drove home building up the frame as nicely as possible "It should look like it's it's own finished model with no covering on it - no glue joints etc, etc) years of finish carpentry only reinforced that - I really dig the building process! (This might explain many, many unfinished projects over the years!) Mu2's little trick at the end is a nice touch as well. It was all I could do to not pick up the Aerocona kit today at the shop .... Must.... Finish .... Cubs ... FIRST!!! gotta look into all the systems to put in to cub # 2 as well - this will be treading new ground all the way! Cheers! |
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cover-lite
SpaceCadet,
You have really been keeping at it. I am a slow builder. I think I have some of the covering you mentioned. Something has to be put on the wood to make the covering stick, right? I understand it's very light!! You have to post some more pics. I know it's probably not easy, but I am very intrested in seeing your work as you go along. Roger |
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