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Mar 11, 2017, 02:20 AM
Classic jets rule
AIR SALLY's Avatar
Never seen one fly....or know of anyone who has one.
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Mar 11, 2017, 06:15 AM
Banzai Institute
buckaroo's Avatar
Nice, a Miller T-38. I have been around here for a long time and can not remember a build thread for this kit. This should be fun. I love all of George's kits. He did indeed apply to the K.I.S.S. principle. I had one of his early F-4's back in the day with the two piece fuselage that was half built when it got destroyed in a move. I bought another one with the one piece fuse. and its been sitting in the shop for years. It is a few planes back on the build bench but it's going to get built. Bob I hope you do a build thread for yours when you do it.

Georges T-38 was one of the fastest Byron powered kits out there. Not bad for the slimmer's of the day. I can only imagine the performance on today's electric. These are the kind of kits I wish we had more of. Simple fiber. fuse's with foam core wings. These kits taught a lot of guy's how to build. Best of luck with this one attwooddrow, I'm subbed.

Dean

I tried to post this video with audio on Youtube but Google banned it because it has 1 minute of the copyrighted song danger zone. What jerks. If I can find a place to upload it outside of youtube with the audio I will.

George Miller on his T-38 Talon (16 min 23 sec)
Last edited by buckaroo; Mar 11, 2017 at 09:33 AM.
Mar 11, 2017, 12:26 PM
Will build for food!!!
attwooddrow's Avatar
Thread OP

Gotta love swap meets. :)


So went to a swap meet this Saturday to walk the floor and see if I can find those little hidden gems that people have and looking to sell.

Lookie what I found, new on a table of stuff. NIB.....

Can you guess how much?
?
?
?

90 bucks.........not to bad if I say so myself. one thing down, many more to go.
Mar 13, 2017, 07:20 PM
3d and EDF, some scale
MustangAce17's Avatar
love the T38. Att, you are in Florida as well to right?
Mar 13, 2017, 10:58 PM
Will build for food!!!
attwooddrow's Avatar
Thread OP

nope


Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangAce17
love the T38. Att, you are in Florida as well to right?
No, I'm a northerner. I'm about twenty minutes south of Chicago, IL.
Mar 16, 2017, 01:02 PM
dare to be dull
bigjohn's Avatar
I have had a GM T-38 sitting on my bench working on it very slowly, getting rehabbed from life as a slimer. It's spent it's time with a belly full of cat litter. I've found that whatever glue was used on the cockpit rails and bulkheads has browned and weakened over time with exposure to the slime. Everything got pulled out. I'm concerned that the spar was assembled with the same degraded glue. I'll de-grease as well as possible, then maybe glass over the spar, or maybe use Kevlar or CF...

I have considered adding flaps and rudder to it, but still undecided. What I have decided is I'm going to 3-d print exhaust nozzles to emulate the real ejector nozzles that have been used in the T-38C upgrade. The stock nozzles that came with mine look like 2 Styrofoam coffee cups were painted grey and stuck in a rear bulkhead. :/ Real blunt and sort of makes her look like a fat-bottom girl. What do your nozzles look like?

I've printed a couple trial fits of the nozzles but still have some design work to do. They really add a more tapered sleek aspect to the back end. I wish I could offer you a set, but you will probably be finished and flying by the time I get this design settled.

My design effort has reveled that the fuselage has been plumped up anyway, just a bit to make the Byron fan work. I have both a Byron fan and a Dynamax with an inlet ring I'm considering using. I may swap them out and compare at some point.

I have a full set of plans if you need....
Mar 16, 2017, 08:48 PM
Registered User
70 ragtop's Avatar
As a connoisseur of old slimmers, I completely agree. Hobby epoxy's most definitely become soft, and weak over time.
Had a ball with my 25+ year old YA F-16A AFR ex slimmer. When I got it, it had fallen from the top shelf in a trailer, and driven one stab thru the fuse. While fixing that, I replaceed all the old fuel soaked wood, and gave it a really good cleaning inside, and out. The only fuse wood not replaced was the main spars, because they were in the wings

First trip out, a missile rail caught the grass on the takeoff roll (strong cross wind). Walked out expecting to flip it back on its gear. Was shocked to find it ripped one wing off. Had broken the two 1/4" spars, and the epoxy at the joint was scrapped off with a razor blade ( pretty soft). Having more projects than "ready to go" flyers, I fixed the one side, and kept flying it

This past year, only got to the field two times. First time out, same strong cross wind ( no missile rails this time), plane comes screaming down the field in a low HS pass, and just as it passes us, it goes silent (Kevlar wrap on motor came loose). Popped up and turned it around, but was a little short....broke the other wing off. Epoxy at that wing joint was soft as well

The second wing really drove it home that all the old epoxy joints need to be redone when they get this old. This is one of the reasons I decided to go with the new wings on my F-18 project....lots of old epoxy in those wings.
Can always slot the wings around the spars,and use a razor knife to cut wings from fuse. Balsa end caps to replace what was cut on the root end, and hard balsa blocks in the slots when fitting new spars ( both if needed). Just an idea

IMHO, fresh wood and adhesives equals many more years of flying fun...of coarse I feel sure many have gotten away with old epoxy ( including myself). I'm just taking the F-16s wings as a sign......
Mar 17, 2017, 04:09 AM
dare to be dull
bigjohn's Avatar
Good points. Are you sure it's time that degrades the epoxy? I was assuming it was the effect of the long term slime exposure. Good points though. I'm at a point where I could probe the wing joints, and for that matter, I could flip it over and sandbag the wings for a controlled overload stress test. I'd much rather reinforce than rebuild, but you have spurred me to take a close look at it.
Mar 17, 2017, 09:06 AM
2019 EDF Jet Jam June 13-16
Robert Belluomini's Avatar
Where do you guys find all these cool jets?
Mar 17, 2017, 03:11 PM
Will build for food!!!
attwooddrow's Avatar
Thread OP

Right here


I found the 38 right here on RCG. You have to be quick on the draw when they pop up.
Mar 17, 2017, 05:30 PM
dare to be dull
bigjohn's Avatar
If you can get ahold of John at Iron Bay, he owns all the old George Miller stuff. The manual I have was printed by Iron Bay.
Mar 18, 2017, 02:08 PM
Will build for food!!!
attwooddrow's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks for the info Big John, but my kit is a complete kit. I have everything that originally came with it. Plans and instruction booklet as well.

So I have been working on finding my retracts for her along with struts. I have picked up some aluminum struts and retract units to match them from Hobby King. I will post some photos shortly. My idea is to make them look a little more scale than George had on the original ones. Also thinking of having the nose gear retract forward like the full scale does. Next will be the fan unit and ESC.
Mar 21, 2017, 11:05 PM
Will build for food!!!
attwooddrow's Avatar
Thread OP

Retracts


OK, got the main retracts in today. Added the struts and new wheels. Nose strut is a Robart unit which fit the nose retract unit's 8 mm pin just right. Since I couldn't use the insert piece to have something for the grub screws to thread into, I just drilled a hole through the strut and pin and then threaded the pin for a small allen bolt to attach the strut to the nose unit. They are about 10 mm longer than what the plans show. May leave them this long or work on shortening them a little bit.
Mar 22, 2017, 03:53 AM
3d and EDF, some scale
MustangAce17's Avatar
very nice att. I just commited to buy John's Cressline F5 so with the the T38 being in the same family these retracts would work there to .
Mar 22, 2017, 05:59 AM
dare to be dull
bigjohn's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by attwooddrow
OK, got the main retracts in today. Added the struts and new wheels. Nose strut is a Robart unit which fit the nose retract unit's 8 mm pin just right. Since I couldn't use the insert piece to have something for the grub screws to thread into, I just drilled a hole through the strut and pin and then threaded the pin for a small allen bolt to attach the strut to the nose unit. They are about 10 mm longer than what the plans show. May leave them this long or work on shortening them a little bit.
What make & model retract units are those?


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