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Feb 27, 2017, 06:23 PM
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Build Log

Prodigy 2 Meter Glider - Off the Ground Models - All Wood


Starting to build a Prodigy 2 Meter, couldn't find a build log so I decided to start one. If anyone has any tips or tricks that may be useful throughout this process, feel free to let me know. So far I have completed the frame for the stabilator. Attaching pictures of the frame and then the frame with the sheeting and cap-strip in place. Still need to sand it to the final profile, but decided to take a break and not rush. Next up is the rudder, maybe I'll get to it by the end of the week.
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Feb 28, 2017, 08:47 PM
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Have fun with build.
Mar 01, 2017, 02:22 AM
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prodjx's Avatar
I heard a story about a Prodigy kicking as against an Open class sailplane during a contest. I think there's something to the story as Now Dr. Michael Selig and the designer of the Prodigy sharing a room while in college. I have a copy of the original review published in RCM along time ago and the only negative comment's were about the wing's folding on a 12 volt winch launch and that the kit airfoil was not a true S4061. So maybe a little carbon addition to the wing spar might be a good idea. I'm still wanting a F/G fuse of the Prodigy.
Mar 01, 2017, 06:53 AM
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It seems that kits from that time period all had "modified" airfoil. Mostly done for ease of building if I remember correctly. The Prodigy did make a splash back then.
Mar 01, 2017, 11:24 AM
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And I do have one NIB, some day.
Mar 01, 2017, 04:58 PM
Kurt Zimmerman ≡LSF 4461≡
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gratter View Post
It seems that kits from that time period all had "modified" airfoil. Mostly done for ease of building if I remember correctly. The Prodigy did make a splash back then.
I've seen "modified" airfoils on a bunch of classic woodies. My guess was to take advantage of available stock wood like TE Stock adapting the airfoil to fit.

I too have a NIB Prodigy. I have not dug into the to see what was the mod in airfoil.

If it were me I'd probably true up the airfoil to as close to the unmodified version.

Good luck on your build
Kurt
Mar 01, 2017, 05:08 PM
Professional sink locator
I built mine in the late 80's. Flew it at the NATS in Lincoln NE and pancaked a landing and rekitted the fuse.
Bob Sealy was selling fiberglass fuses for them and I have been flying it off and on since then.
It's still a great little sailplane. I've launched it really hard on my winch, never had an issue with the wings flexing. I can't remember for sure, but I think that I used epoxy to laminate the carbon to the spars and sheer webs. It's a stout plane.
Enjoy building it.
Mar 01, 2017, 10:30 PM
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Gary any chance of a photo of your Prodigy F/G fuse? Is Bob Sealy still in business?
Mar 01, 2017, 10:38 PM
Professional sink locator
I'll try to take a picture in a day or so.
I don't think Bob is still in business, the old link that is on RCG is dead.

The fuse look a little like a Sagitta 600, just a universal shape for the era.
Mar 02, 2017, 09:44 AM
there is no spoon...
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Originally Posted by DKryst111 View Post
, maybe I'll get to it by the end of the week.
Sounds like the way I build. Add me to the list of guys with one of these in the attic. I've been thinking about building mine for this years contests the past few days and now I find your thread....hmm. 'guess I should clear the bench off.
Mar 02, 2017, 08:24 PM
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Thread OP
Update:

Completed sanding the stabilator and then moved on to framing the rudder. After adding the cap-strip to finish out the rudder per the plans I decided to call it a night.

Wishing the plans had more detail on the bottom of the rudder, any ideas? The bottom is 1/8" thick, the spar is 3/16", and then there is a 1/16" piece laminated on each side of the spar which makes for a pretty odd looking base. Do I just kind of round this out with sanding or am I missing something? Maybe I should do cap-strip to straighten it out and just have a flat bottom?
Last edited by DKryst111; Mar 02, 2017 at 08:34 PM.
Mar 03, 2017, 12:36 AM
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HIR/Cer's Avatar
Looking good! An excellent build to your rudder so far. Noticed that you did taper the spar at the tip end to 1/8" as instructed before adding the tip cap strips! With the unequal widths of the laminated spar and the laminated trailing edge, the x-section of the rudder would be skewed if built in an incorrect manner.

Believe you are right in adding the cap strips to either side of the bottom 1/8" balsa piece of the rudder. Sand it later to blend with the trailing edge and round the bottom to what looks good to you.

Besides maintaining the cross section of the rudder, adding the bottom cap strips will also provide flat surfaces for the rudder control horn to rest on.
Mar 05, 2017, 08:14 AM
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Keep up the good work.
Mar 05, 2017, 10:09 AM
Registered User
Remember that in airplanes, lighter is better. Use a sanding block, and use it a lot.

Yours, Greg
Mar 05, 2017, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glidermang View Post
Remember that in airplanes, lighter is better. Use a sanding block, and use it a lot.

Yours, Greg
One of the guys in a sailplane club I use to belong to use to say " light is right. Thin to win"


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