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Feb 23, 2020, 10:10 PM
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Landing gear faring attachment


Quote:
Originally Posted by DeLaReef123
Yep, no way was I gonna screw those. I wanted a cleaner look. The fairings were actually trimmed pretty well so I did not have to trim anymore. I simply used some Formula 560 Canopy glue. I used painters tape to hold it in place until it dried overnight. I then removed the tape and cut some of the extra cub yellow trim that came with the kit to cover the gaps between the fuselage and the fairing. No Screws required and worked out pretty well.

Here is the glue: https://www.motionrc.com/products/za...ba0aAiNG8P8HAQ

Hope that helps.

Looking forward to more pictures of your progress and maiden report.
Like others in this forum, I was not comfortable attaching the landing gear farings with screws. The flexing of the gear will likely destroy the farings in no time. But I found with my larger Hangar 9 Twin Otter that canopy glue worked loose over time with flexing of the gear. So on my VQ Twin Otter I chose to install the farings with yellow electrical tape. The color of the tape that I found at Home Depot is as close to perfect as you are going to get.

I used a small squeeze clamp to hold the faring tightly against the fuselage while I taped it. This way I had two hands free to do the taping.
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Feb 26, 2020, 04:52 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardLee
I kept trying to convince myself that the original stance would be OK but it ended up keeping me awake at nights. So I did the same thing. Put the gear in a vice and tapped away to flatten the gear. I lowered the main gear by 1" exactly. The front gear was lowered by about 1-1/4". I found with the original configuration that the front of the plane was too high. So I ended up lowering the front more than the rear. Looks great now. (I used the same Dubro axle that others have used. Works well.)

By spreading the rear gear to lower the plane, the distance between the rear wheels has increased by 1-5/8". (41 mm) I will have to make new longer spreaders for the floats, but this will be an easy task.

The pic below is of the plane after it was lowered by 1 inch.
Looks good! In my case I ended up cutting the gear where it bent for the wheel mounts, and then bending a new wheel mount tab and drilling. Lowered it by 1- 1/4 ". More work to accomplish basically the same thing... Currently trying to figure out best way to mount the fairings... the tape looks like an interesting idea if I can find some that is white and flexible enough (yours looks perfect).

BTW- Where do you fly Richard?

Cheers;
Eric

P.S. For interest, pic is a functional cowl flap I designed to allow a bit more airflow for the ESC's. The scale plane has a similar cowl flap, but I had to design mine a bit different since the cowl shape on our models is not really scale (more rounded).
Feb 26, 2020, 10:12 PM
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Herman Munster's Avatar
[QUOTE=racer944;43908741 ... Currently trying to figure out best way to mount the fairings... the tape looks like an interesting idea if I can find some that is white and flexible enough (yours looks perfect).
.[/QUOTE]

I lowered the stance on my Twin Otter and used Top Flite Monocoat White trim on my fairings. It has an adhesive backing and conforms fairly well and is flexible.

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?I=LXHX82&P=ML
Last edited by Herman Munster; Feb 26, 2020 at 10:41 PM.
Feb 27, 2020, 10:48 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Herman Munster
I lowered the stance on my Twin Otter and used Top Flite Monocoat White trim on my fairings. It has an adhesive backing and conforms fairly well and is flexible.

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?I=LXHX82&P=ML
Thanks Herman, that looks like a promising option for me to try! Will grab some today...

Cheers;
Eric
Mar 24, 2020, 01:22 PM
Registered User

Battery tray


Designed and 3D printed a battery tray for the Twin Otter based on ideas in this thread.

Kept it simple... front is held down by a plywood lip, back is a thumb screw with a blind nut. Has about two inches of adjustment built in. Battery is a 4S 5300 in the tray...

Cheers;
Eric
Mar 25, 2020, 06:45 AM
Registered User
Iflyrc_vic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by racer944
Designed and 3D printed a battery tray for the Twin Otter based on ideas in this thread.

Kept it simple... front is held down by a plywood lip, back is a thumb screw with a blind nut. Has about two inches of adjustment built in. Battery is a 4S 5300 in the tray...

Cheers;
Eric
Great idea and usage of your 3D printer. I don't have a 3D printer so I use a piece of 1/8 inch plywood. I have used this technique in several models.
-Vic
Mar 30, 2020, 04:15 PM
Registered User
Hey Eric, very nicely done.

Richard

Quote:
Originally Posted by racer944
Designed and 3D printed a battery tray for the Twin Otter based on ideas in this thread.

Kept it simple... front is held down by a plywood lip, back is a thumb screw with a blind nut. Has about two inches of adjustment built in. Battery is a 4S 5300 in the tray...

Cheers;
Eric
Mar 31, 2020, 08:11 PM
Registered User
racer944--Can you put the battery tray stl out there so we can try printing one? Thanks! Bill


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