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Feb 15, 2017, 11:42 AM
Objects in mirror are losing
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Installing the horns.
Using 5 min epoxy and milled fiberglass for thickener.
Feb 15, 2017, 11:47 AM
Objects in mirror are losing
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The provided 4-40 studs are too short.
I noticed after I had already drilled, tapped, and CA'd them into the ball links.
If the servos are moved back then the arms won't clear the covers.
Last edited by 1000MPH; Feb 15, 2017 at 01:40 PM.
Feb 19, 2017, 10:16 AM
Objects in mirror are losing
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Wiring harness prepared, tested, potted, and installed. I'm making loose fit foam tubes out of packing material to keep the harness wires from flopping around in the wing. I'm not sure how well they will work in actual use.
Feb 19, 2017, 10:31 AM
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Flap servo installed with 5 min and milled FG. I had to mount the servo far forward to allow the servo arm enough clearance. It's pretty much up against the spar. This means it's not completely in the recessed servo pad.
To avoid too much wear and tear on the ball links, I use an old one that is cut open for test fitting and alignment. It's easy to install and remove. Servo is cleaned with acetone. I tend to not sand the servo cases anymore in hopes that it will be a strong enough bond for flying but I can also remove if necessary.
Connectors are secured with shrink tubing then stuffed back into the rolled foam tube.
Last edited by 1000MPH; Feb 19, 2017 at 10:39 AM.
Feb 20, 2017, 09:03 PM
Objects in mirror are losing
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I was going to fine tune the flap servos. Basically limit their max travel so they can't self destruct.
But it seems the servo programmer doesn't recognize the servos when going through a harness that has ganged together battery power.
Feb 22, 2017, 12:15 PM
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Wing to fuse fit is not great on this one. I had to do a bit of sanding and grinding of both the tongue and inside of fuse.
It's still a tight fit but now I can get the screw in and cinch it down.
Last edited by 1000MPH; Feb 22, 2017 at 12:45 PM.
Feb 23, 2017, 10:55 AM
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Joe posted a response in the D80 thread...
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe manor
The tongue isn't the problem. The fuse needs to be clamped a bit. Put a clamp on the fuse sides in front of the LE. When you tighten it up the receiving area where the tongue slides into will raise up. Don't clamp too hard. Bolt the wing up tight, remove the clamp, add some heat the fuse around this area. Let sit overnight. Should be good. It is possible the wing molds were not clamped tight when manufacturing leaving a slightly thicker wing. The tongue slides in but the bottom of the wing LE binds against the saddle before you can slide it forward enough.
Feb 24, 2017, 10:54 AM
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I've heard that others with this issue have been sanding down the wing saddle and filling the TE area for a better fit. I'm not ready to do that on this one.

Wing to fuse fit is good now.
Last edited by 1000MPH; Feb 27, 2017 at 01:38 PM.
Feb 24, 2017, 11:02 AM
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Elevator servo:
Using a brushless MKS for the elevator. The tabs were removed with a Dremel cutting disk.
Using the innermost hole on the short metal MKS arm. These need to be purchased separately. 4.5mm from the center should still give enough ele throw.
Hole has been drilled and tapped for 2mm threads on the ball. I'm using the supplied ball and links on the elevator but I added an M2 washer for a bit more clearance, looks like there's no need to grind the screw head. No room for a nut on the back of the threads, make sure to use strong threadlock. The screws that come with these arms are ridiculously short. Edit: I bought some replacement hex button head 2.5x5mm screws on Amazon. I used med threadlock here and on the arm to output gear.
I can't set the horn to 90 so I angled it slightly forward. This will give me more up than down travel. I will adjust with mixing or subtrim if needed.
Last edited by 1000MPH; Mar 01, 2017 at 08:14 PM.
Feb 24, 2017, 11:08 AM
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The inserts in the subfin must be drilled out so the screws can cinch down the fin. I used a 5/32" drill bit. I also ground out some extra splooge on the top of the end one so the srew can seat. I can't get to the other 2. I also need to drill a hole in the bottom of the fuse for access to the front screw. This needs to be forward a bit of the screw's centerline to clear the bulkhead.
Feb 27, 2017, 01:45 PM
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I managed to get to the middle screw with a flat file. Took a few mins work. The front access hole has been drilled. It's bigger than the JM build D80 I have. I think Joe used to put the screw under the bulkhead and only use the hole for the hex driver. I made a hole big enough to pass the screw head.
Fin fit is looking good. I checked the fin and horizontal with the wing atached and everything is straight.
Pitot tube slots have been drilled in front of the first screw. I had to go deep in the subfin and really deep in the fin. I wanted to put the hole behind the first screw but the bulkhead was in the way.
Pitot tubing was fished through.
Feb 28, 2017, 10:40 AM
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Elevator horn has been installed with 5min and milled FG.
I couldn't find a measurement for the horn slot but it looks like Joe put it in the midway point between TE and LE. Looks like others put it more forward of that position. Testing with the pushrod shows it looks like decent fit.
Mar 09, 2017, 01:32 PM
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Back to work on the D80. After test fitting the elevator servo I found the threaded rod too short so I made one 1/4" longer. I should finally be able to mount the servo tonight.


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