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Nov 28, 2017, 04:52 AM
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Beaver_XT's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjrosario08
May I know where did you bought the DS racing drift tires? As far as I know they are only making drift tires for 1/10 rc cars.
It's an obscure toy shop in countryside in my mother's home town in Thailand. I somehow stumbled on it while travelling.
A quicker way is to contact them directly via facebook: https://www.facebook.com/DSracingthailand/
They have a new compound too https://www.facebook.com/DSracingtha...38961289582105
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Dec 03, 2017, 02:53 AM
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Beaver_XT's Avatar
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New update for Q7: shorten the wheelbase to improve agility.
Mini-Q Q7 3rd Mod: Changing Wheelbase to 90 mm (6 min 16 sec)
Dec 16, 2017, 01:58 PM
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How to cut a body. This method works with any clear body but I'm doing it with Mini-Q AE86 body.
How to Cut RC Clear Body & Prep for Painting (4 min 2 sec)
Dec 17, 2017, 09:18 AM
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Yapuka's Avatar
Nice body. A pure old school drift car . I can not wait to see more. I would like to be able to build and paint my own body but I have tried in the past and that was a real carnage. Since this time, I use bodies from rc car for kids at 1/24 scale. If you are interested I'll show you what I did with my Slash.

I have a question for you about the esc and motor. when I press the throttle the acceleration is not linear. At the beginning it's soft but arrived at a certain point, that accelerates brutally, as a booster or turbo effect. Is it the same thing for yours?
Dec 17, 2017, 09:25 AM
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Nice, I'd love to see what you did to your car too. Sharing what we are doing is also a good way to learn too. This chassis is quite new and there aren't many setups being publish yet.

My ESC is very linear but being said mine is RTR version with 2 in 1 unit and I find it very good.

What version do you have? Is it ARR that you have to use your own transmitter? And it comes with this ESC, the one on the left >


If that so I can tell you that it's from the ESC. And you can't program it. All you can do is accept what it does and live with it.
And don't try to change it to the one on the right because it's worse.
Dec 17, 2017, 12:58 PM
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Yapuka's Avatar
Thanks for your quick answer . I have also the RTR version.



With this Tx.



I though the same thing than you about the ESC but I wanted to have another opinion. Maybe I'll order the Quicrun 1625 soon. Wait and see.
Dec 17, 2017, 01:31 PM
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Edit: Sorry I re-check mine by moving the throttle dual rates up to the max and the result is it's smooth almost through out the range except at the very top. It'll jump from high speed to max speed instantly. So basically it's just like you said, turbo!
I rarely go that high because I only do drifting.

This is quite problematic if you do touring car racing. You need to dial throttle dual rates (TH.M.P, the dial on the right) down to the point that it doesn't jump. Or the jump is at the end of stick.

So get a Hobbywing 1625 and a Flysky receiver that's compatible with GT2F and you'll be fine. Of if you already have your own transmitter, just get a 1625.
Last edited by Beaver_XT; Dec 17, 2017 at 01:47 PM.
Dec 17, 2017, 01:31 PM
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Yapuka's Avatar
I finished the main mods yesterday. It's never finished, I always have a new idea to try but currently I just want to play with . And it's funny !!:























I hope that there is not too much pictures .
Dec 17, 2017, 02:05 PM
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Nice mod. That's some extensive work to stretch the chassis.

Well, since Mini-Q is the same size and body mounts as Kyosho so you could just use a Mini-Z Autoscale body.
Dec 17, 2017, 04:30 PM
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Beaver did u find any way ti fix the rear suspension yet
Dec 17, 2017, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamar6
Beaver did u find any way ti fix the rear suspension yet
No, moving the ball to the same position as Q5OP doesn't help either.

Someone pointed out that this can be counted as a feature because Xray T4 can be set up to do the same thing.
After a bit of searching I found that it's called ARS (Active Rear Suspension).
https://teamxray.com/t4/2018/en/#32
Quote:
ARS™ System.
The kit includes both standard and Active Rear Suspension (ARS™) rear suspension. ARS™ offers great adjustment possibilities and driving characteristics.
ARS™ suspension consists of: suspension arms, graphite 0 C-hubs for optimal flex characteristics, hard steering blocks, and ARS™ linkages which connect suspension holders with the suspension block. The angle of ARS™ linkages –set by adding/removing shims on the suspension block and suspension holder – changes the toe-in characteristics of the rear tires during chassis roll.
Dec 17, 2017, 07:24 PM
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Does it bother the cornering cause I'm between this car or the amz

Also is there room to shim the a arms
Dec 18, 2017, 01:29 AM
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It doesn't bother the cornering. To be honest the cornering is excellent.

No, there's no room to shim the lower a arms.
The adjustability you can do in this area are:
- Lower a arm has 2 holes for shocks, upper hole and lower hole.
- Droop screw in lower a arms.
- Upper arm can sort of move forward and backward to change caster. But it's so difficult to remove the rubber stopper so I haven't bother to try it yet.

To be fair AMZ can't change the caster either. But it has better steering system when fitted with hyper steering crank.
Also AMZ has extensive spare parts, this one... it's been months and the only spares available are the old ones from Q3-Q5.

If you're on the fence between these two, right now AMZ has a brighter future.
Or wait a bit, the v2 for this car might come out soon with new servo arm and floating servo mount.
Dec 23, 2017, 03:52 AM
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Yapuka's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaver_XT
Nice mod. That's some extensive work to stretch the chassis.

Well, since Mini-Q is the same size and body mounts as Kyosho so you could just use a Mini-Z Autoscale body.
Thank you Beaver. It's very easy to stretch a chassis even without "professional" tools. But you are fully right regarding the autoscale body. However, they cost one kidney , sometime the body I want does not exist, and last but not least I like to build my cars . The cost of the body I use is from 10 to 20 (price of the whole sacrified rc car).
In addition, I always try new technical solutions and sometime I have to use my Dremel to modify the body. On a Autoscale, that "bothers" me a little bit...
Dec 23, 2017, 05:47 AM
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Yapuka's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaver_XT
No, moving the ball to the same position as Q5OP doesn't help either.

Someone pointed out that this can be counted as a feature because Xray T4 can be set up to do the same thing.
After a bit of searching I found that it's called ARS (Active Rear Suspension).
https://teamxray.com/t4/2018/en/#32
I think that this caracteristic is not a hasard because for a designer it's easier to develop a "standard" geometry. I have a good knowledge about this concept because I designed a similar concept on my R8 there are many years. If you want to know more about that, I put a link. The description is in french (Google translater is your friend ) but there are many pictures.

http://tritons.are.free.fr/LosiMicro...php?f=9&t=1376

If you want to mitigate or suppress the phenomenon, you can try to use this point for the TOE (I did not try it yet).


To summarise, that increase the pinch (not sure that is the right word in english. In french that is called "pincement") when the car is in support during turns or acceleration, to better "hold" the rear of the car. From my own experiment and my own feeling, that works very well. But your set up must be perfectly balanced to avoid parasitic reactions. For example, if your rear shock absorbers do not have the same adjustment, your car will not goes in a straight line during the acceleration and you will not have the same behaviour in the right turns and the left turns. If your track is not flat and if one of your rear wells rolls on a bump, your car can brutally leave on the side, more specially if you use a long weel travel with a soft shock absorber spring.


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