Vintage Marblehead Resurrections - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Feb 21, 2017, 10:06 AM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar
Yep, I'm sure you could do that with the rudder post supports. I left the two side pieces longer, and tied them into both frame 9 and the transom, to reduce twist. But if you were going for the lightest boat you can get, then yes, you could easily do that.

I'm not sure what you're referring to regarding the "verticals". Earl B. told me about how some guys used to run a cable from the fin base up and out to the chainstays. Is that what you meant? Or do you mean the mast support that runs down from the frame directly underneath the mast to the keel? In the Sun Wind II I have added a post that distributes the mast load down to the keel. I haven't gotten around to adding it yet on the Riptide. (I'm not done with the Riptide yet...).

My focus is on a strong and great looking boat. I'm not that into racing, so my boats are usually a bit heavier than the racing boats. However, mine will last for years of hard abuse, and they'll look nice. If you want to race a boat made from my version, there will certainly be ways to reduce weight, although by using a plywood keel instead of a large, heavy, solid wood version, I've already gained back some of that weight. It will be plenty strong... I'd worry more about weight if you're into racing.
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Feb 21, 2017, 03:16 PM
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I did some drafting on the racing sparrow 540 project. Because laser cutters are awesome I was trying to push boundaries that you would not do by hand. I also learned that not all wood is the same thickness as the label and trying to use only one method is worse than mixing laser and metal tubes and dimensionsl lumber.

I always want to put more wood in the stress spots. May I recommend enclosing the bow in the manner photographed below? This squares the 1st bulkhead and gives meat for the forstay.
Feb 21, 2017, 05:33 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar
So I think I see where you're going with the bow. It's not a bad idea.

In my case, I've got a few reasons why I probably won't do that. First, I've already got a pretty good amount of wood stock holding the first frame (I call it "frame 0"). Secondly, if you look at the deck side of these frames, I've built in notches for the king plank to go. It terminates at frame 0 and should add a great deal of strength. When you add the side planks and the deck, then you realize that the bow will take a lot of abuse very well.

My focus, my experiment, on this project, is to make the fin only extend 2" into the hull and still be strong. I've tied the fin into the two main doubled-up frames in that area, and I'm convinced that it will more than hold the stress. Won't know for sure until it's built, but it's looking very good right now.
Feb 21, 2017, 05:35 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar

Where can I find a Vintage Marblehead lead bulb??


Oh, by the way, does anyone know where I could get a VM lead bulb? Hoping for one in the 9 lbs range. Earl put me in contact with a guy who thinks he can make one, but if someone already knows of a manufacturer for VM bulbs, please let me know!

Thanks!
Feb 21, 2017, 05:46 PM
Registered User
I have the same problem magnified with a trying to make a removable keel on 4' abs Aussie II. I I am looking at all styles of keel box to support the keel and tie into the desk.

A laser cutter is good for "organics" so I wonder if a CF sheet would make a great center for your keel. I was looking at aluminium too as it can be shaped but I am not sure if that (or CF) is MH legal.

Thanks for posting the details.
Feb 21, 2017, 06:18 PM
Registered User
Bulbs: try Thom McLaughlin here .....

Or Adrian Olson here (the Sun~Wind is a vintage M)
Last edited by gio06226; Feb 21, 2017 at 06:27 PM.
Feb 21, 2017, 07:03 PM
Registered User
The bulbs from Thom were $200 and 10.5 lbs. so other than cost would be perfect for what you need. For that kink of money I would consider making another aluminum mold.
Feb 21, 2017, 08:08 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar
Thanks John.

I've tried to contact Adrian, but he hasn't replied. I sorta doubt he'd want to supply bulbs to someone like me who is building my own Sun Wind. He'd rather sell a kit. I totally get that.

Yes, if they are still $200, then I'll make my own, or work with Earl's contact and send him a male mold.
Feb 21, 2017, 08:59 PM
Registered User
Adrian Olson died suddenly earlier this month. Not sure what is going to happen to all of the stock of his business. Ryan
Feb 21, 2017, 09:07 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar
Oh no! Yikes... I'm really sorry to hear that. That's a big loss to the model yacht world. His Sun Wind is a beautiful boat, and is what inspired me to design my plank-on-frame version. Never met him, but I'm sorry he's gone.
Last edited by SeattleRCSailor; Feb 21, 2017 at 11:43 PM.
Feb 23, 2017, 09:24 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar
On the lead bulb, I've decided to at least TRY to make my own male mold. Then hopefully I will be able to collaborate with the gentleman that Earl put me in contact with to actually make the bulb.

Perhaps this will lead to him making bulbs available to others who wish to purchase the bulbs for a reasonable price.

So tonight I have glued up a lamination of some cheap hem-fir, and when that's dry I will turn it on the lathe at work. Fingers crossed that it turns out OK, as I'm a horrible turner! :-P
Feb 23, 2017, 10:09 PM
Registered User
Hello pwallace!

SeattleRCSailor, making bulbs really isn't quite as scary to me as most seem to make it out to be. Perhaps it is my automotive and fabrication background. I made a GHETTO mold for the RS540 build pwallace mentioned above. It went off like a cakewalk. Super easy. Making a proper mold, shouldn't be that much harder.

I have been busy redoing my workspace and as such haven't finished up my current batch of boats to the point I could figure out the bulb weights needed. But just today in fact, I got the rest of the supplies I needed to make up moulds. I also have a 5 gallon bucket full of lead. I will be documenting that portion of the build very well as it seems to be pretty scary to most.

Anyways let me know if you need assistance, or even if you want me to give a shot at casting the bulb for you. I plan on using the plaster of paris mould making method, but a more permanent mold could be made with silicone too.

I really need to take some time and melt down a bunch of the lead on hand for ingots....
Feb 23, 2017, 10:44 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar
Hi BiggsDarkLighter,

Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know how it goes with the gentleman that Earl put me in contact with. If he's unwilling or unable to do it, then I may contact you for help. Sounds like you've got plenty of experience.

To be honest, I'd much rather simply pay someone a reasonable price for a quality bulb than make one myself. Right now I've got three or so VM boat builds in the future, but only two of which will need bulbs (I've already got a very heavy, 13 lb. one for the Riptide hull I have), and so getting all geared up to make just two bulbs seems like a lot.

Thanks again! And please post pictures and updates of how your pours go.
Feb 23, 2017, 11:05 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleRCSailor
... Sounds like you've got plenty of experience. ...
Thanks again! And please post pictures and updates of how your pours go.
Lol, not really! Plenty of experience doing "dumb" things I shouldn't do though, so this could qualify. I actually have a scar on my leg from when I was like 12 soldering a nicad pack for my rc car. Molten metal hurts. That was 30yrs ago. But I have a willingness to try. And enough random skills and experiences that I can usually pull it off.

I kinda suspect the biggest problem most have pouring bulbs, is trying to pour from the middle/top. When I poured my ghetto bulb, I used aluminum foil and just dirt (Florida sand) and poured it with the tip facing up. Poured nice and easy. The air had a natural place to go, up. And you could pour slow since no air to pop out and also not a large area sucking the heat out.

Kinda want to try from both directions and see if this theory holds "weight."
Feb 24, 2017, 12:38 AM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleRCSailor
On the lead bulb, I've decided to at least TRY to make my own male mold. Then hopefully I will be able to collaborate with the gentleman that Earl put me in contact with to actually make the bulb.

Perhaps this will lead to him making bulbs available to others who wish to purchase the bulbs for a reasonable price.

So tonight I have glued up a lamination of some cheap hem-fir, and when that's dry I will turn it on the lathe at work. Fingers crossed that it turns out OK, as I'm a horrible turner! :-P

On other threads discussing pouring a bulb, I remember a discussion on how much bigger you needed the plug / mold to be to account for shrinkage of the hot lead, so the final weight was correct. Plus there will probably be some need for final shaping,


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