Vintage Marblehead Resurrections - Page 10 - RC Groups
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Nov 25, 2017, 07:19 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar

The Vintage Marblehead Construction Manual


It's published! My latest construction manual, "The Vintage Marblehead Construction Manual", is now available!

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It comes in two formats:
1. Electronic PDF format for $24.95. Just send a PayPal payment to my account (stevedeligan@gmail.com), and then send an email to the same address. I'll reply with the PDF copy. You should get it within 24 hours normally.

2. Or printed in full color with a coil binding so that it stays open to any page. Looks great. It's available from Lulu Press for $45. I know that sounds expensive, but it's 99 pages of text and pictures on how to build the Sun Wind HF. It's a very niche book that is printed-on-demand, so it costs a lot to print each full-color copy. I've received lots of positive feedback for my Star 45 Construction Manual, so hopefully you'll find this one useful. You should get it within a week or so.

If interested in how to build a Star 45, that construction manual is also available.

Thanks,

Steve
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Nov 26, 2017, 02:03 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar

Sun Wind HF Rig Moved Aft


The original placement of the Sun Wind HF rig was way too far forward. The boat wouldn't point at all. I initially used the original plans, but in converting to RC and High Flyer, with the longer fin, the rig then needed to be moved. Ended up moving it about two inches aft.

That necessitated covering the first holes as best I could. Some you can still see, but overall I think it looks pretty good. It points much better now. I can still move the mast forward or aft about 1/2" on the mast step if needed for fine tuning. Will need a day with a bit less wind than I had yesterday!

Here's how it looks now with the better placed rig:

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Nov 26, 2017, 03:03 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleRCSailor
The original placement of the Sun Wind HF rig was way too far forward. The boat wouldn't point at all. I initially used the original plans, but in converting to RC and High Flyer, with the longer fin, the rig then needed to be moved. Ended up moving it about two inches aft.

That necessitated covering the first holes as best I could. Some you can still see, but overall I think it looks pretty good. It points much better now. I can still move the mast forward or aft about 1/2" on the mast step if needed for fine tuning. Will need a day with a bit less wind than I had yesterday!

[snip]
That's because it was designed as a vane boat with a sliding rig. Vane boats carry lee helm on the beat; the boat bears off naturally, which enables the wind to catch the vane feather and force the boat into the wind. Braine boats (like your Wampum) are designed to carry neutral helm to slight weather helm and sail on balance alone to windward, so the original mast position should be very close to ideal for R/C. This is also the reason that a rudder close to the original area will work for R/C.

Being a Lassel boat, the Sun Wind with sliding rig was set up using the "Lassel System" of vane steering. On the beat, the vane angle was set to the optimum angle of apparent wind and left alone. The rig was slid fore and aft to compensate for variations in wind speed. On the run the rig was slid all the way aft. This put the mast (and downthrust vector) at or behind the LCF and reduced the tendency to dive. Those old boys were pretty clever :-)

Cheers,

Earl
Nov 28, 2017, 10:51 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar

Wampum III build has begun


The Wampum III is on its way to reality!

Last week I cut the frames. Sixteen sheets total! Yowza.

This weekend, I made a strongback to build it on. Now I am busy laminating the double-frames, laminating the keel layers, and clear-coating the rest of the frames.

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Dec 03, 2017, 12:14 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar

Wampum VM Frames Installed


First, I've changed the name of the Wampum III to the Wampum VM. It may not be the last name change, but it will work for now.

Secondly, I've installed the frames. To get here, I've had to laminate the four doubled-up innermost frames, clear coated the rest of them, make a strongback, and, biggest of all, built up the entire keel assembly.

The keel assembly itself came in at just under 2 lbs. That sounds awfully heavy by today's standards, but it's lighter and stronger than the original, and I'll have a lead ballast mounting system that should last forever. In the end, this boat will weigh less than the traditional boats and will be significantly stronger.

I'm working on making the lead ballast. For now, I've made the wooden male molds on the laser cutter and then fitted them onto the keel system, and then shaped the entire thing as one assembly. The molds have now been removed and I'm adding additional fairing material and such to finalize the molds before casting them in refractory cement.

You can clearly see where the lead ballast will eventually be mounted on the keel.

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Remember, here is where it's headed...

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Dec 03, 2017, 03:36 PM
Registered User
Steve ...

Looking Great ... especially laser cut frames and your approach for attaching ballast externally - accounted for by using laser cut frames.

NOTE: Your approach for ballast and laser cut frames is the best I have seen so far ... compared to recent larger J-Class builds using laser cut frames and challenges they had with "internal" ballast ... causing post build / planking modifications to add adequate ballast.

Your forum posts & build blog for your Wampum VM will be helpful to many others ...

Will be watching
Dec 03, 2017, 03:47 PM
Registered User
Steve ...

May I recommend ... with regard to planking & hull glassing ... that the ballast be added last and after the rest of hull is planked and glassed.

This would allow lead ballast to be fitted to hull keel - the gap between planking n ballast - could be filled and faired with a variety of materials ... I suggest a semi-rigid fill material (possible RTV or flexible caulking) ... vs ... hard epoxy.

My suggestion would allow for removal of ballast if wt needs to be adjusted ... with minimal impact n damage to rest of hull finish - especially glassed surface water seal.
Last edited by slo.ca6; Dec 03, 2017 at 09:48 PM.
Dec 06, 2017, 07:49 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar

The Vintage Marblehead Construction Manual


I ordered a proof-copy of The Vintage Marblehead Construction Manual, and it arrived today. Not too bad if I do say so myself!

Full color with a coil binding so that it stays open to any page.

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It comes in two formats:
1. Electronic PDF format for $24.95. Just send a PayPal payment to my account (stevedeligan@gmail.com), and then send an email to the same address. I'll reply with the PDF copy. You should get it within 24 hours normally.

2. Or printed from Lulu Press for $45.

In either format, it's 99 pages of text and pictures on how to build the Sun Wind HF. Version 2 will eventually have additional information on how to build the Wampum VM, but I'll have to build one myself first!

Thanks,

Steve
Dec 07, 2017, 02:47 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar

Lead Molds for Ballast


For the past few weeks, I've been tinkering on making some male-molds for future ballasts. I've 3D printed two male-molds for Sun Wind HF style torpedo bulbs, one slightly smaller than the other to make a lighter weight bulb if desired. And then also I've worked on a shaped ballast mold for the current Wampum VM that I'm building.

Today, I finally took a big step and filled the molds full of refractory cement. Now I'll let it cure for a few days and then attempt to take off the molds and see how they look. Then I'll let the cement cure for a few weeks, occasionally in a warm oven, to fully cure before I attempt to pour lead in them.

My current fear is that the mold for the Wampum VM has an area between the two halves that is too close together and may crack off when I attempt to remove the male mold. Fingers crossed that it will come off easily.

Here are two pictures of the molds in boxes that I framed around them. They have also been smeared liberally with Vaseline as a release agent.

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Here's how they look now, filled with refractory cement. I bought a 25 lb. tub and used it all. It didn't go far, but I had just enough to do the two. I hope that they are thick enough to support their own weight when cured.

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I'll now let them cure for a couple days before I attempt to remove the molds. Does anyone have experience using refractory cement? I'm curious as to cure times and how long I should wait before trying to remove the molds. I'm thinking a few days?

Then I'll wait a couple weeks or more until I attempt to pour lead in them. They'll also take a turn in a warm over for several hours in a week or so.
Dec 07, 2017, 05:24 PM
Registered User
Dick L.'s Avatar
Not sure that Vaseline will stand up to hot, liquid, poured lead. Thinking about melted lead plus Vaseline and no where to vent/go. Might ask around to others as you are lubricating like a fiberglass layup. Hate to hear the mold was ruined.

Cheers
Dec 07, 2017, 05:52 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick L.
Not sure that Vaseline will stand up to hot, liquid, poured lead. Thinking about melted lead plus Vaseline and no where to vent/go. Might ask around to others as you are lubricating like a fiberglass layup. Hate to hear the mold was ruined.

Cheers
Thanks Dick,

No, the Vaseline is just a release agent for the male-molds to release from the concrete! Then, once fully cured, I will thoroughly clean out the mold, and then will likely use talcum powder or something else for the actual molten lead pours.

Thanks,

Steve
Dec 07, 2017, 06:13 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar

Sun Wind HF Laser Cut Frames Now Available!


Great news! Laser cut frames are now available for the Sun Wind HF!

They are cut by National Balsa. The price is a very reasonable $175.95 which includes the materials, the laser cutting, and the shipping. It took about a week for the inspection set to arrive.

It includes all the frames, the keel parts, the servo tray (with two different bases for two different types of switches), and all the fin and rudder parts. It also includes a building board and the servo swing arm parts. It even includes the hatch covers if you choose to use them.

It does not include the boom parts. Nor does it include any of the other wood or parts that you will need to build a Sun Wind HF. This is NOT a kit... it's only the frames and such.

Please email Jessica at balsabug1@aol.com, and ask for the "Sun Wind HF Sailboat Frames". They have the file saved and will cut a perfect set for you.

Here are two images from the set. They are perfectly cut and engraved.

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Here is every sheet that is included:
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NOTE: I make zero money on these frames. You deal entirely with National Balsa for them, and you get a perfectly cut set of frames. My hope is that others out there will be interested in creating some of these beautiful, Vintage Marbleheads from back in the day. Perhaps in the future, others will help to re-create other sets of frames for people to build. I'm hoping to have the Wampum VM frames available some day, but it must wait until the prototype is done.

After a lot of work, and a several months of tinkering, you'll end up with one of these (except you will place the rig where it's supposed to go, unlike me!)

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Dec 08, 2017, 11:25 AM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar

Original Rip Tide Plans


I was just sent a TIFF file of the original Ted Houk designed Rip Tide plans! It's much better than the DWG plans that I already have.

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From this, I should be able to make a pretty faithful 3D model, and then from that, accurate laser-cut frames. My redesign would be a modern "High Flyer" version with a 16" draft and a spade rudder. It should also weigh less than the original 18.2 lbs. stated by Ted Houk. It would be called the Rip Tide HF (for "High Flyer").

This won't happen soon, but maybe in the next few months I could have a frame set available. Anyone interested in making a Rip Tide HF?
Dec 08, 2017, 12:44 PM
Registered User
Planking a Rip Tide is tricky because of that flat floor. The original was cold molded over a form. I wouldn't make it any lighter than designed. In fact, I wouldn't change anything but the rudder. My final version (VM 1) is still sailed by Jim Linville and still winning VM races.

To see how to plank that floor, go to

http://usvmyg.org/ripmake/ripmake3.htm

If I were to make another one today, I'd carve a form out of foam, put a layer of fiberglass over that, and then cold mold self-stick cherry veneer as in the attached. (Don't use kevlar as in the article, it's not legal for a VM).

Cheers,

Earl
Dec 08, 2017, 02:51 PM
Thomas Armstrong
Added TIFF plans here: http://www.allradiosailboats.com/design/riptide
(Thanks Earl!)


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