Originally Posted by superticky

...And last question .... there is a ton of after market aluminium upgrades, any one worth it ? I feel it would add weight and I like how light and quiet my T4.3 is ... but still just wondering in case any special part is important to upgrade to aluminium regardless the added weight.

Thank you !

The only aluminum "must have" upgrade to get would be wheel hex adapters. I have not used the stock plastic adapters on the T4, but on my SC10 I tried them out when I was in a pinch waiting for order of aluminum hexes to show up. The plastic hex adapters worked, but in short time the rears began to show signs of wear.

The two other areas of concern are the steering, and front hinge pin brace. If you have a great metal gear servo and want to reduce some steering slop, then the Factory Team steering bellcrank setup may be for you. Over the years I've learned to embrace and enjoy slop. I tighten things up some, from time to time, but will hardly ever get rid of it completely.

Originally Posted by RustyUs

The only aluminum "must have" upgrade to get would be wheel hex adapters. I have not used the stock plastic adapters on the T4, but on my SC10 I tried them out when I was in a pinch waiting for order of aluminum hexes to show up. The plastic hex adapters worked, but in short time the rears began to show signs of wear.

The two other areas of concern are the steering, and front hinge pin brace. If you have a great metal gear servo and want to reduce some steering slop, then the Factory Team steering bellcrank setup may be for you. Over the years I've learned to embrace and enjoy slop. I tighten things up some, from time to time, but will hardly ever get rid of it completely.

Thanks Rusty !

I just ordered these two:

Im taking a risk by ordering the front one smaller, stock ones are all four the same. For this part model they have front and back where the front is smaller. Currently the front wheels are not even with the rear, maybe with this front hex smaller one I can make them more even but it's a risk of they don't fit. Which one do you have ?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Associat...f=pd_bxgy_21_2

The T4 platforms use the same size wheel hexes front, and rear. Team Associated 9892 is the correct part for the front/rear. The other wheel hex is for the SC10 front which is a bit narrower.

yes I thought so ... I'm taking a risk to see if I can make it work to make the front wheels a little more narrow and be even with the rear wheels for better looks.

I will need to do a mod on the front axle for sure, maybe an extra bearing in the inside or something. Being the hex shorted there will be slack on the front axle. Once I get it and try it I will send you a pic to show you.

Aluminum wheel hexes aren't cheap. Especially, when a wheel nut fails to secure wheel, and you end up destroying the hex and wheel if not caught in time.

I used to carry a nut driver with me when running my RCs, because my fear of wheel nuts loosening was great. I've been bitten too many times in the past. Even if I put new nylon locking wheel nuts on, they still seemed to lose their grip way too fast. I moved to serrated nuts and same thing was happening. Fed up with the whole thing RustyUs was. I then tested a few thread lockers. I was afraid of Loctite attacking/making plastic wheels brittle like it had before with a truggy of mine.

Long story short, a little bit of Vibra-TITE 125 gel, and flange serrated wheel nuts...ranks up there in my list of things I can't go without . I no longer worry about wheel nuts coming loose.

Hey Rusty I need your professional advice here if it's okay.

I don't feel much resistance on the rear wheels, is this normal on a 2wd T4 or is the diff lacking fluids and I should check and refill ? What weight do you use on yours ?

VID 20190203 203645 (0 min 11 sec)

Thank you !

The differential comes with the gears only covered with grease. Thankfully, the diff housing is sealed, or I would be putting a ball diff in there. I am currently using 5k fluid, and find it to be a great starting point for what I do on a loose dirt.

Hey Rusty how are you ? I have a question for you since you have a sc10 and T4.3

Would the sc10 front axels fit my T4.3 in order to get the front wheels a little more narrow ? I already have aluminium hexes from sc10 which do fit well.

I'm talking about replacing #7854 with #9881

Thank you !

If a person tries to use SC10 axles, the wider stadium truck wheels will rub on the arms when turning.

Rusty if you even wanted a carbon chassis for your T4.3 this is the time !

They are on sale for $5

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/...hassis_carbon/

I had my shopping cart full of other stuff, then AE updated their site. #MeNotLikeIt
I think Associated took a wrong turn with their new website.

I never had a carbon chassis. Who knows? One of them chassis' may find its way to the east coast for testing. For five dollars, it'd be fun to try breaking one during my normal RC trashing (track bashin).

Now that the track has a layer of loose stuff on it, the truck (with Pro-Line Edge tires) has a lot of steering. Too much in fact. I had moved the front shocks to handle the rough bumps better, and will be moving them back to stock position in hopes of taming the front end down.

After driving my Duratrax Evader ST back to back with the T4.3, there is big difference in handling. The T4 is so much more nimbler. The Evader drives like a fullback running straight up the gut of the defence.

I really need to weigh both stadium trucks. The T4 feels so much lighter.