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Feb 12, 2002, 11:37 AM
Registered User

JR G460T in Voyager Q's

Hovered my voyager for the first time last night, and I must say it was $#%*@ outstanding. What an absolutely gorgeous ship, I swear it can hover almost hands off. After flying micros for the past two years I can only shake my head in disbelief...

I'm running the new C40 motor with CF frames and stock blades. With 2400 NiCd cells and the stock pinion I was getting around 7 minutes of hover, not bad considering I still had a big dowel rod tied to the front of the skids to prevent tipovers.

Anyway, enough raving and bragging... I'm wondering about the best way to set up my JR tail-lock gyro. Is there someway I should stick a screwdriver into the little hold marked "tail lock" to activate this function? Do I need to worry about revo mix? And also, can I run the gyro gain settings off my channel 5? If so, is gain adjusted using the subtrim function?

Thanks in advance for the help. For such a sophisticated gyro, you'd think JR would enclose more comprehensive instructions, instead of a little card the size of a scratch-and-win gamepiece!


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Feb 12, 2002, 01:37 PM
The Voyager is a great flying heli - sturdy and stable. A little slop in the head which can be removed to help for aerobatics, but for basic flying, it is plenty fine!

The 460T gave me problems at first too - I got it set up kind of OK, but never dead on.

Definitely trim out the model with the tail lock OFF. You use channel 5 to adjust the gain - BUT, you use the ATV, not sub-trims to adjust it. With the switch forward, you adjust the gain on the high ATV, and vice versa. You want to turn on the tail lock after you have tested it and flown it with the tail lock off. Trust me - youll NEVER go back out of tail lock again! You just do it for basic set up to keep things from getting hairy early on.

As for revo mix, you actually DONT use it with Tail Lock/Heading Hold gyros. If you do, it actually will make the tail uncontrollable at points - so be sure the revo mix is inhibited when using it in tail lock mode ON.

Yes, the instructions leave a lot to be desired

Feb 12, 2002, 02:22 PM
Registered User
Thanks for your help Jason. I already have an Ecureil fuse on hand, and once I get this thing up to speed, I'm going to scale it out... so I'm all about scale-looking flight, nothing too agro. So you say I should trim everything out before turning on the tail lock function? I have the aileron/elevator/pitch right where I want it, it's only the tail that needs some work. I was actually amazed at how she lifted right off into a hover with a minimal amount of fiddling, pretty amazing design and directions, gotta hand it to JR. Even the suggested pitch curves were dead on.

So, can you confirm that:

* Since only the tail needs trimming, I can go right to tail lock mode, correct?

* Gain is adjusted using the endpoints adjustments on channel 5. Check.

* Do I need to do anything special with the servo arm/pushrod?

* And my big question: how do I turn on the tail lock? It looks like there's a little slot marked "tail lock", but what do I do with it? Is there a slider in there or something?

Thanks again!
Feb 13, 2002, 12:33 AM
Just a note -

When you go to the scale fuse, you MUST change the tail blades! I tried flying the Ecureiul A-Star fuse on my Voyager with a Hacker brushless motor and 10 cells - the tail authority was awful! I almost lost the heli several times because I couldnt control the tail! It flew great before the fuse, but with it on, the large tail fin and tail boom eat a lot of the air the tail moves. Therefore, you need blades with more area. If you look at the pictures of the scale fuses on JR Voyagers in Japan, they all use a light blue blade. These are special blades you MUST use with the scale fuses to keep the tail in check. If not, youll end up near crashing like me. You can also take some .30 sized blades like those from Kyosho or Hirobo and cut them down a little longer than stock. They have a larger chord and a little more length keeps the area up. Any .30 sized blades work - but the Shuttle and Kyosho Concept blades dont need any thinning at the root to fit the grips. No matter what .30 blades you get, you do need to shorten the root and tip length to work. If you want to skip the hassle, you can get the JR blue tail blades here:

As for the gyro, once you have it set solid and straight with tail lock OFF, then go ahead and turn ON tail lock. Inside that little opening is a TINY - and I mean TINY - switch. You need to use a very small screwdriver and some special technique to switch it. Move it across to tail lock ON and leave it there After that, tail lock is always on. You set up 2 different gyro sensitivities - one is for high sensitivity in hover, the other is lower and used for flying around in forward flight where a tail that is "soft" works better for most. Yes, you use the ATV/Ed points of these 2 switch positions to adjust the gain.

Email me directly - I have an article with mods from a Team JR pilot with a neat trick you should do to the tail to equalize piro in both directions.