Wow.... I just got lost in Youtube land for several hours. I stumbled across a video on how insecure normal garage door setups are. I could break into my garage in about ten seconds after watching this. Anyways, I found this due to wondering if I can mount my garage door opener off to one side or the other. That question didn't get clearly answered. But, it can potentially be converted to a side mount. Unfortunately they show jackshaft type garage door springs in these conversions. These are called torsion springs.

I went down this rabbit hole because as I was thinking about the workbench to workstation workflow. Wondering if I should make a top for the workstation so I can actually build on top of it too. Staring at the ceiling in the garage, I realized if I moved the opener off center, or to the side, I could actually open up the space above my workbench even. Above my workbench, if I went to the roofline, I would have close to 15'!!!

The conversion would be pretty easy to do. I have side springs though, so would need to convert to a torsion bar setup (about $100) to change the current opener to a side drive. Now if I could just move it to the side and make it a side pull, that could possibly work too. Some ideas to play with. Need to decide if I will go in this direction before I tear into the attic space for storage.

Since I can't find the answer, I experimented. With the latch unhooked, the garage door can't be lifted off to one side but only in the center since I have "extension" spring system.

And a sprocket for the direct drive conversion is only $30. Now all I need to figure out is how the opener knows when the door is up or down.... I think it simply senses resistance.

Anywho... I got $250 plus in materials today. I have 5 sheets of nice 3/4 ply. Those are freaking $30 a sheet!!! Got a small handful of 2 x 4s. A couple sheets of much lower grade 3/8ths ply for the attic storage redo. A sheet of 1/4 nice luan like ply for drawer bottoms and cupboard backs etc. And bonus, a rough cut red cedar 2 x 4!!! I am not sure, but I think I got charged normal 2 x 4 price for it too. It was a GORGEOUS piece with even grain and no knots. Ripped down, it will make for some awesome planks!!!

I can BARELY move around in the shop right now. The tools have taken over, and now the new building supplies are sitting unsecured outside. Except for the cedar, I put that inside haha!

Next step I think is to move boats out of workshop temporarily, then get the ply up onto the one wall. Figure out how I am tackling the garage door issues and tackle the attic storage above the main workbench accordingly. I have beams broken there upon closer inspection. So eliminating them and going a little further into the attic might solve it simpler. And also give me that 15' ceiling above the main workbench!

Whatever I do, I am now out of storage and very cluttered space. And I still need to eliminate a lot more storage before I can make more. Next step, before the next step, might have to be reorganizing the sheds just so I can clean the garage out completely first... I have hit organizational walls past few days. I just can't get forward traction since I have no place to organize stuff too. On like the 6th 55 gallon trash can full too.

So I came home Saturday to find that the woman had cleaned out the sheds for me! She is pretty amazing! Next two evenings and all of Monday were spent taking everything out of the garage, them reorganizing and moving stuff back into the sheds.

This morning started out with a garage with nothing on the floor! Or on the wall... Forty five hammed drilled holes later, some VERY TIRED arms and aching hands, and I now have the three sheets up on the main wall. And they aren't light either. Each sheet felt like it weighed about 125lbs. Google says it is closer to 75lbs. Whatever it is, it is awkward and sucks especially as I had no assistant to help move them into place.

I would say the worst part is over, but I am not so sure. I am dreading trying to cut a sheet down into 2" x 8' strips for the cleats. The battery pack on my cordless Ryobi circular saw, will only do about 6-8' on this 3/4 ply. The idea of trying to cut down a full sheet on the table saw, is well cumbersome. I may need to do a 2' wide cut with the circular saw, then slice that down with the table saw.

Or, I build the tool bench/toolcart for the table saw first. Tomorrow I need to clear the floor again (had to dump stuff back in at end of working today), and then try to figure out the size of the cart that will fit acceptably into the space. It is going to need to be bigger than I envisioned. This Delta saw is BIG! I really need a 4' wide table for it. 4' x 4' or 4' x 5' are odd sizes, but I think 4' x 6' might work. And if I go that big, I am kinda thinking that the cart can also be the primary tool (power) storage spot too.

Or, I put the Delta table saw on a separate cart that just attaches to the main one. Some added build complexity, but might be a better storage and workflow solution.

The old standing workbench can be seen outside off to the right. It is gettign taken partially apart, cut down, reconfigured, and used for a place to put refrigerator and other small random stuff. The dead zone by the door is like 20" from the wall. I am going to make some sort of storage rack that fits right into that footprint.

Shop is coming along nicely! I have it near perfectly cleaned out with exception of the old cabinets. Those aren't staying much longer, but for now I can't loose any more storage. Most of whats left in here is now pretty well organized too. In the panoramic, you can see the wood cut and stacked against the wall for making the new cabinets! I haven't figured out the perfect construction technique yet... Ideally, I need a dado blade to rabbit the backs and make shelf slots. It is on the short list, but there is still a depleted budget to solve first haha! For now, I can make do with multiple passes on the saw I guess.

The assembly bench slash tool workstation is roughed out now. I had some problems I detailed in its thread here: (along with more pictures of it). I needed to borrow my neighbors router, and I hate borrowing tools, to drop the front feet down. So yesterday, I went on Craigslist looking for routers and came across a STEAL of a DEAL! Guy had a Craftsman router with table still BNIB, a Delta INDUSTRIAL Miter saw with lasers (we know how I like lasers!!!), and a "used once" Craftsman shaper with the cast iron table. He wanted $200 for all three. I told him yes and headed over. He had to go retrieve the items. When I got there, he had discovered the router has been sold already by his aunt. So I walked away with the shaper and the Delta for $100!!!!!!!!

Unfortunately, the "used once" shaper's switch is destroyed. But also easy to get on eBay and cheap. I still need/want a handheld router, but those are super cheap on Craigslist. I can pick up a good Craftsman one anytime for $30-50. Or, I can just get the Dremel one, and borrow my neighbors bigger router now and then when needed.

And as mentioned in the cart thread, this Delta miter/compound saw is HUGE! And I am concerned I made the cart too big. So before I finish the cart up, or add anything more to it like sides, I need to determine if it gets shortened. And try to figure out a better way to solve the other tool stand dilemmas. This design posted up in the other thread, is giving me ideas for a combination saw and planer stand...

The florescent lights make it hard to take good pictures of the attic "bump out" above them, but these should give a good idea. I think I am going simple as possible, and just eliminating that whole bump. The area in the far right corner might be the best place to store wood standing up. I had kinda planned on leaving a shelf above there. We shall see. The purchase of the saw took my budget allotted for reconfiguring the garage door. Until the garage door gets converted to a torsion spring and a direct drive opener, I am not messing with the attic bump.

I would really like a way to still utilize the florescent lights but get them up higher, and hide them better. They not only ruin the ambiance, but also mess up many attempts at photographing the shop and projects.

Speaking of budget, I have a pile of tools collected now that I need to get sold. I can probably get back $500 or so. That would get me more materials, garage door parts, and new light fixtures. I want some vapor proof style fixtures with edison bulbs. Although, those bulbs don't throw off a lot of light. So I would need at least 3-5 fixtures along the back wall and maybe along the right side wall. I have also seen LED versions of those fixtures, but they are double the price too... These fixtures would go along the wall at the 8' height. So right where the attic bump out floor is, and top of the new plywood on the right wall. I love the industrial and nautical look of these fixtures, plus they will survive if bumped with the end of a board being moved around.

I made another cool tool score. I have wanted an x-acto tool cabinet for as long as I can remember. I have never actually seen more than just pictures of them. And I don't think they have even made any for the past 30+ years. The original appears to be the "No. 89 X-acto Toolmaster Cabinet." The "No. 88N Hobby Den Tool Cabinet" looks to be a little more modern. Mine came with the crank drill shown in the 88N. But I can't find ANY references to what model my kit is, or a picture of it completely setup. I am kinda guessing where stuff goes and what was in it. Mine was also missing most of the smaller tools... I contacted X-Acto, but there were no help.

"Thank you for contacting Xacto. Unfortunately we do not have access to the information that you are requesting. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause."

And the last two pictures show the moment I discovered, I had been delivered an extra Delta Table Saw! My neighbor had been sitting in the chair using the box as a armrest and table for his coffee. But, I had put all the boxes away up in the attic a few days before. After he left I was looking at it thinking just that. When I went to move it, thinking it an empty box, I almost fell over. NOBODY knows when exactly this saw was delivered. Looking at the picture, I had to move it to shut the garage door. The Fed Ex guy must have delivered it while we ate dinner that evening. Needless to say, I was more than a little confused over this one!

Well I have made progress on several of my projects. Everything that is except for doing actual work on the boats.... That I hope to do tomorrow. I really need to get the first paint layer on the one Razor, and use the shop building down time to let it cure up nicely.

I have the dust collection system working, and most of the tools setup to use it. Getting fittings for the tools was MUCH harder than making the collector itself! I am unsure how I am going to proceed though. I still like the idea of putting it into the main too/table saw station the best, but also thinking of just stacking it and making it roll. Space is super precious though. But this would simplify plumbing and eliminate the need for blast gates...

The main tool station is just, really big. It isn't exactly "too big" for the workshop, but I had a cleaner, less cluttered, wall space in mind than it will allow. Not to mention, I STILL need at least one more stand. Tonight I stared at it for a while, and the other tools I need to have stands for. Both the shaper and combo saw need a stand kinda similar in design with on feed and off feed tables on it. A flip tool cart "might" be perfect for these. They are really close in footprint size.

I can actually cut the 18" depth I need for it off the length of the big cart. That would leave me with 14" of table space between the two table saws. That would give me a 12" space for other tools in between. Or let me shorten the whole thing another foot. If I do that though, then I probably need to make the other cart accept inserts for multiple tools, instead of flipping just two.

I defiantly plan to move the refrigerator into the corner above the air compressor. That frees up 2' of wall space.

Anyways before I do any cutting down on the rolling cart, I have cabinet bits cut out waiting for some dados. I want to get these finished up enough to put into service, so I can get the old cabinets down. I am not really ready to tackle the workbench wall, but need to get the space "visually" closer to what it will be. I am having trouble visualizing the whole shop and everything in a workable place.

I need to try and make every bit of "furniture" in the shop serve multiple functions. I am thinking to make a butcher style top that can fit the table saw cart. And maybe also have legs so it can be free standed, or some sort of supports so it can be attached to the French Cleat walls. Or perhaps even more useful would be a plywood top that could also double off to the side as extra table space for the saws.

Trying to make a shop this small work and flow well, and also not look junky and cluttered, is a serious challenge! So far though it is working out MUCH better. I have been working on multiple broken cars the past week, and the shop has stayed almost perfectly organized. Cleanup has been easy and quick. So the reconfigured space is already working out MUCH better than it was before.

one of my most indefensible tools is a tool very similar to a dremel tool with a flex cable attached but much more powerful I got it at American Science and surplus. awesome place for the hobbiest. this thing came with many tools the thing I like best abot it is is has a foot pedal to control the speed. most tools of this nature are very expensive this one is not yet it is just as good as any I have seen, it cuts is sands and grinds it does just about everything. I really love this place has many things guys and gals like us use. in fact I think I spoke to you about the older one I have and will give it to you when I meet you in person still works but she is old. sorry have not been around it been nuts to say the very least. I just posted pics of the boat I have been bouilding fr a new friend it is under electric raceboats this thing is quite the project

I think your referring to the Foredom I have seen your pictures of? That would be epic! Their tools are on a whole different level than Dremel. Intended for more professional and heavy usage. "Contractor grade" lol! Yeah, my vintage Model 2 Dremel shot a big freaking fireball out of it with an even bigger bang the other day! Followed by blacking out the whole garage... It is defiantly toasted.

I want to pick up a "modern" Dremel sometime soon. There doesn't seem to be any savings buying a used on on eBay, they still go for barely much less than a new one with accessories in box goes for. There is a slightly older digital Dremel I had for years and would love to find again though, that would be worth it!

Also the possibility exists that my M12 Milwaukee "dremel" tool would accept these attachments. It does have a spin off case collet/ nose thingy. I may grab the plunge router attachment from Home Depot, then I can easily take it back if it doesn't fit.

I want the ability to use some of the awesome modern attachments, like the plunge router. But with a flexshatf tool attached, I have always found Dremels to function much less than perfectly. The Foredom would be the best way to go.

I want to make this rotary tool cabinet for my goodies!!! (These plans can be found for free from here too.) It will fit in very well with the other cabinets and stuff being made. I need to post up some pictures of those soon...

I will be moving my Snap-On boxes to a new job soon, effectively freeing up most of the left wall. I will miss working out of them, and need to rethink organization on my larger red cart I will be bringing back home. This will open up the right wall big time. I may still shorten the table saw tool center a bit, but not touching it as of yet. Old cabinets coming down, and new ones going up is first priority.

Keep up the awesome work on your new project Bill, it is looking AWESOME!!!

Well it has been a rough past few months. Too much going on to even think about the workshop build, or touch a boat. Other than to move them around... It has been just as long since I got to even go sailing.

We are in process of refinancing the house. The first storm of the season saw water pouring through the ceiling in three spots. So it was new roof time. And a thousand other house related projects. But all that is mostly over now. Appraiser came out last week and we just play the waiting game now. While it didn't add real value to the house, the workshop did show the appraiser what I was capable of doing. That and other house projects I had finished up. I think that will factor in his decisions some. Hopefully!

And, I had two broken laptops! Those are fixed, and I have a much nicer Toughbook for shop use now. It is almost as powerful (specs wise) as my MacBook Pro, but smaller footprint and RUGGED. I think my MacBook failed from getting crap in the trackpad and elsewhere inside.

So workshop is back in order and cleaned up nicely. At least as nice as I can without storage solutions finished up...

I am staring at the wall and thinking on the next step to take. I am a little stuck here. The next step is to get some slats up onto the wall. The decisions to make:

1) What wood to use, cost vs durability. I am not sure the type of the wood matters a lot, but it could. First off I want 12' pieces so they span the whole wall. That limits me to stuff like soft cedar, pine, or pressure treated stuff. Yes, I could get 12' peices of oak, but the cost would be insane and they would have to be custom ordered. Cedar would be more expensive (than the pine or pressure treated stuff), but nice.

I think that using long spans will give me a bit more strength and spread the load out. I could glue it, but I would still have to attach it mechanically first with screws or nails. And if a piece gets damaged... I think I know my plan for attachment at least.

2) Board sizing is probably the most critical. The right boards could be cut in half for some savings, but these slats need to be as narrow as possible for looks, yet wide enough to distribute the weight well. And enough room to put screws into the unleveled section.

3) Spacing. How far apart to space these? I am thinking 6" but not sure. Need enough spacing so it doesn't overwhelm, but close enough to get more than one slat holding up heavier items.

4) How far up, and how far down the wall to go? I don't think I will go any higher than the 8' mark on the side wall. Not sure than anything lower than 4' would accomplish much either. Pretty sure on the upper height, but the lower one is more, fluid.

The back wall is a different story. I will likely go to the ceiling with the slats.

I also need to decide how and where to put my building storage space. I could make a little cart to fit the corner by the door. Or utilize overhead space for that. Leaning towards doing that.

I have also been offered a "nice and large" workbench. From the description given to me, it is a traditional built bench with butcher block type top and all. I have to follow up on that and at least try to get pictures and measurements. Cost is basically free. but moving it will cost me for sure.

Anyways, time to go make some actual progress! I think a trip to Home Depot is in the works.

Bump for Hax! We wer yappin on zee phone and I was trying to explain this gem to him from www.occre.com They have some super cool things, especially this workstation! I have been staring at that workstation for a while now, I LOVE the idea, but the executtion of it isn't quite what I need...

I have been out in the workshop for several hours today workign on my Soling refit project. It is a LOT bigger of a boat than what I am used to working on, and my back was screaming. The stand is too tall to work on it on the workbench, and a little too short to do so on the floor. I had to resort to the floor option, and am super stiff now. As I was sitting here, I kept picturign that stand in my mind with ideas on how to make it more focused for RC sailboats.

The open space needs to be a little bigger with no ceiling there so that a fin type keel and bulb can comforatbly fit there. The back could be open, like a normal x type stand. In fact the center section might work best if it is unattached, and configurable for differant sized boats. Maybe no bottom, but instead some beams that can wingnut the two sides together. Also if done like this, there can be a drwaer section and a seperate tool holder section that can easily be swapped and put on either side.

The top cradles would of course be adjustable and removable so it can be swapped out for other types of boats. And I think I would also make the option for adjustable feet. I have materials on hand I could build it from, but this much trouble I think would deserve to be made out of some nice oak like I made my "footy vise" out of. Here is a picture of it being used to just hold the Soling rudder while the resing sets.

I'll send MY version of adjustable cradle ( made from scrap lumber), along with my club mate's "HARD" tilt adjustable cradle pic's directly. Maybe junk to you, OR, maybe food for thought,? Tim aka Cap'n Hax

Send away Tim! I got a couple prolems to solve there anyways. This above is for a workstation of sorts with intent bending towards portable. Thinking about it makes me rethink the whole workbench concept too. If I build a new workbench, incorporating some sort of removable section so a keel/fin doesn't put the boat above a sitting working level, is an interestign side thought.

As mentioned in my other thread, I need to make some sort of transport cradle too... My car is a perfect size for my Footies and RG65 size boats. Not so much for a 1m.

In other news, my workshop got "devestated" by hurrican Irma... I overheard the wife talking to a freind on phone right before the storm. I had just come back from trying to buy plywood at Home Depot. Her freind was all "Doesn't James have any plywood out in the garage?" Wife responds "No." as I walked by. I got to thinking, "Why yes, yes I do!!!"

I had just enough on hand to board up the front and sides of the house. It wasn't "ideal" or cheap for the application, it was furniture grade wood for just a temporary construction grade project. The neigbors son brought by a bunch of 3/4 scraps I peice together to seal off all but one window in our Florida sun room. That one window bothered me though. It was a big one too. So I went out into the workshop and took down one of the 3/4 sheets I had put up on the wall. That isn't going to be fun to replace... I want to try and redrill the new sheet to fit exactly.

But our house and my workshop survived mostly intact. One of our cars was totaled. Suffered some minor roof damage to the Sunroom flat roof. And some of the tools I had stored in the shed out back suffered water damage.

Originally Posted by BiggsDarkLighter

Send away Tim! I got a couple prolems to solve there anyways. This above is for a workstation of sorts with intent bending towards portable. .

Bigg's n everyone ,! As asked for by James I'm adding these pic's for food for thought, Not to hijack his thread I'm NOT gonna take the time to edit/name them . I think they will be self "S'plain "Lucy",!!! (Rickey to wife) , of I LOVE LUCY tv series,! A vid would have been less shots but this is EZer than loading to YT, (The Bigg's PATH of less resistance,!!) Tim Cap'n Hax

Transport cradles are different than building cradles.
If you want to transport and store your boat the cradle has to be build to hold that particular boat, so that high stress points have some sort of protection/hold.

Originally Posted by BiggsDarkLighter

It is a LOT bigger of a boat than what I am used to working on, and my back was screaming. The stand is too tall to work on it on the workbench, and a little too short to do so on the floor.
The open space needs to be a little bigger with no ceiling there so that a fin type keel and bulb can comforatbly fit there. The back could be open, like a normal x type stand. In fact the center section might work best if it is unattached, and configurable for differant sized boats. Maybe no bottom, but instead some beams that can wingnut the two sides together. .

The LEGS for my adjustable can be cut to YOUR /height specs requirements,!!!

Originally Posted by haxawsnavy

I'll send MY version of adjustable cradle ( made from scrap lumber), along with my club mate's "HARD" tilt adjustable cradle pic's directly. Maybe junk to you, OR, maybe food for thought,? Tim aka Cap'n Hax

[QUOTE=BiggsDarkLighter;38309602]Send away Tim!
As mentioned in my other thread, I need to make some sort of transport cradle too... My car is a perfect size for my Footies and RG65 size boats. Not so much for a 1m.


QUOTE]
SEE ADDED pic's below,!......

Originally Posted by gio06226

Transport cradles are different than building cradles.
If you want to transport and store your boat the cradle has to be build to hold that particular boat, so that high stress points have some sort of protection/hold.

Yep well aware of that Gio,! Sent him first thing he asked for FIRST,!!!......
Bigg's,Most of my club mates that sail the class have not to travel any farther than yourself (Bigg's) to their venue n most lay them down on side. Some place a "leveler" block under the keel so boat RIGGED is laying horizontal. Others just lay it down RIGGED w/o de-masting for rides less than 30 mins and vehicle size. My mates in South Carolina usually DE-RIG their boats because they carpool. None are incorrect just your OWN option/ vehicle size will determine what's best for you brother,!!! I'm adding these pic's to fulfill your request as I promised,!! Thanx for your patience. Tim aka Cap'n Hax

My soling grate is similar to yours, Cap'n, the only difference, I added a keel support, so that the boat is held along 3 points/areas, two on the hull and one along the bottom of the keel. In this way there is little or no stress along the keel/hull joint (a notorious weak spot in may boats and in solings in particular), considering that the boat spends more time in the crate than in the water (I also reinforced the area with 1.5 oz fiberglass in epoxy that extends in the keel flange and box).


One thing I would change in most designs is adding some sort of rudder protection, but that's a general observation.

Gio, you have any example pictures on the keel support?

I really like that one Hax! Two bits of wood hanging down would be enough to shield the rudder. Space far enough apart to allow a turned one to fit.