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Feb 22, 2017, 06:38 PM
Classic wooden RC sailboater
SeattleRCSailor's Avatar
Beautiful! Can't wait to see how it ends up. Well done.
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Feb 23, 2017, 10:40 AM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
Aaaarrrggggg. I screwed up while cutting out the foredeck hatch and will not be able to have rounded corners like the aft deck hatches. Facing the curved sides of the foredeck hatch will be different and will take some time. The good thing is I can get my hand inside the front hatch. I was wondering if I had made the trim lines to narrow and I did not want to go outside of the hardwood. I got the glass set on the inside of the hull and squeezed the nose around rib #2. I'll let it dry 24 hours before I remove the big rubber band that's holding the nose against the rib.
Last edited by davidjensen; Feb 23, 2017 at 11:02 PM.
Feb 24, 2017, 09:41 PM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
I had my first intimate sanding session with all the parts and got her surfaces looking good. There are of coarse those problem areas. I got a chance to weigh her parts as they are and its 650g which is 60 to 70g heavier than last years boat. However its not apples to apples as I put 5 coats of spar varnish on last years boat once she was all together and this one has only one more coat of epoxy to go. Last years boat did not get glassed inside and that was a mistake as I have a failure crack in the foredeck due to cutting in the access hatch which was not intended to be there. Job 1 for this weekend is clean out the shop. I know where everything is I just cant get to it.
Last edited by davidjensen; Feb 24, 2017 at 09:47 PM.
Feb 27, 2017, 10:38 AM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
I got very little done this weekend and the skiing Sunday was great. I did get some time to fit the foredeck to the main hull. Its close but still needs a little work. This week I'll try to get the foredeck hatch faced and fitted and start measuring and setting bench mark points in the hull, for the mast position, the main sheet post, main bulkhead and the jib support web. I also want to get replacement rib No. 9 hollowed out and glued in place.
Feb 27, 2017, 08:30 PM
BarryD
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjensen View Post
I got very little done this weekend and the skiing Sunday was great. I did get some time to fit the foredeck to the main hull. Its close but still needs a little work. This week I'll try to get the foredeck hatch faced and fitted and start measuring and setting bench mark points in the hull, for the mast position, the main sheet post, main bulkhead and the jib support web. I also want to get replacement rib No. 9 hollowed out and glued in place.
David, nice job so far. What weight do you have for the hull, ribs, rear and foredeck? I brought some G10 epoxy sheet for the support ribs, they are turning out stronger and lighter.
Feb 27, 2017, 11:38 PM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
Barry look at post 63 for weights so far. Today I got the facing on the front hatch and got the jib support web glued into place. I tack glued the main bulkhead to the foredeck with goop so I can check the position and how it fits to the rear deck. Also I measure the distance from the projection of the main bulkhead to the bottom and the mast center point to make sure its vertical.
Feb 28, 2017, 09:10 AM
BarryD
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjensen View Post
Barry look at post 63 for weights so far. Today I got the facing on the front hatch and got the jib support web glued into place. I tack glued the main bulkhead to the foredeck with goop so I can check the position and how it fits to the rear deck. Also I measure the distance from the projection of the main bulkhead to the bottom and the mast center point to make sure its vertical.
Yes, I saw that post but didn't know what parts you included.
Feb 28, 2017, 10:59 AM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
The only parts not included were the 3 aft ribs which I expect will add 40g+-><. I expect her to be porky and doubt she will need much if any corrector weight. She is brutally strong with the 2 oz. glass on both sides. With out any corrector weight I may have to use the battery to shift the weight to the rear if needed.
Feb 28, 2017, 09:19 PM
BarryD
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjensen View Post
The only parts not included were the 3 aft ribs which I expect will add 40g+-><. I expect her to be porky and doubt she will need much if any corrector weight. She is brutally strong with the 2 oz. glass on both sides. With out any corrector weight I may have to use the battery to shift the weight to the rear if needed.
David
Looks like you'll have a good Hood River Boat, a fast battleship! Might surprise you.

What is the recommended method of glueing the deck to the hull. Titebond or Epoxy.
Anyone want to chime in, I'm getting close to that point. The last boat I recessed the deck with Titebond but hasn't really been tested so to speak.
Current boat the fore and aft deck are not a perfect fits, but flexible enough to make it work, I sanded the inside really thin then a layer of 1oz (1.5oz on top)
So I was thinking 30 min epoxy, that way I can dribble some more down the inside corners later,
The gunwales are going to get a final wrap of 1 oz.
Feb 28, 2017, 09:38 PM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
IMHO. It depends on the surfaces you are gluing. If they are wood to wood go with the tight bond. I'm always impressed with its strength. If the surfaces are glassed with epoxy I would use epoxy and roughen the surfaces prior to appication. You will also want to add some carbosile to stiffen the epoxy so it will stay put and not runaway from the joint.
Last edited by davidjensen; Feb 28, 2017 at 09:50 PM.
Mar 01, 2017, 12:53 AM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
More quality time in the shop, and no I did not get to cleaning it out as evidenced by the pics. The front hatch fits really tight and needs to be sanded to increase the gaposis before I add the epoxy. I got the rear deck mated to the front bulkhead and so far everything is lining up nicely
Mar 03, 2017, 11:51 AM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
I built a quick and dirty rigging stand with scrap wood and the cradles are made from the foredeck building board. This will allow me to hold the hull firmly in place while I align the keel. I did not do this on the last boat and the keel is 0.00something degrees angled back. I played around with the laser a little and showed the water line.
Mar 04, 2017, 03:48 PM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
I started to shape the keel/mast box to the correct shape and left the top a little long for fitting later. I also made the piece for the bottom of the mast well which I glued to the main bulkhead. In the last pic I'm gluing the aft deck to the main bulkhead with epoxy. The bulkhead is attached to the foredeck with 3 little drops of goop so once the epoxy is dry I can easily detach the bulkhead from the foredeck. Now I have to make the mast well
Mar 04, 2017, 04:56 PM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
After I got the main bulkhead free from the foredeck I did some test fitting of the trunk. The good news is she is lighter than I thought she would be although she is still a porky pig (sorry Dave I just could not resist). All the parts in the last pic = 675g. The two support ribs for the trunk are all that's left to go inside. The mast well is the last of the outside. I think these can be done and have the hull around 725 to 750g ready for hardware installation. I still need to epoxy coat all the inside support wood
Mar 04, 2017, 06:25 PM
Orco Skinny
Wow ! Amazing craftsmanship David !


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