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May 01, 2017, 07:31 AM
Registered User
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlastairL View Post
Hi All,

Early in this thread, it was mentioned that these gimbals were not compatible with the X9E.

Would any one know what constitutes the incompatibility? Mechanical/size; electrical??

Also, is there anything in the pipeline to offer a similar upgrade for the tray radio?

regards

Alastair
For the E folks are using the X12S gimbals and a voltage supply kit from RC Studio.

Mike
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May 01, 2017, 02:12 PM
Learning to crash
Tom T's Avatar
Gimbals arrived an hour ago, and already installed, calibrated and seem to be working real nice. No jitters at all, except for the guy installing them lol. Glad I finally got a pair of them. Now maybe I'll get to try them out by June or something with all the rain and flooding we've had the last 4 days it'll take that long for the club fields to dry out enough to use.
May 01, 2017, 07:12 PM
Team KISS WebMaster
MS52390's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RidgeMan View Post
My M9 on the throttle has a bit of "sticky" spot at the bottom.. works fine but it's a bit annoying! anyone have this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpjf01 View Post
Yep, at the top too. Both sets.
I believe I read somewhere that this might be due to excess lubrication on the metal pin that rests on the plastic coated metal arm. You could try to carefull hit this pin and contact area with some compressed air or maybe a dab with a dry Q-tip.

My question to you folks is...with the stick grub screw out, why can I not loosen/tighten the damn sticks? Full disclosure, I tried to twist them (the correct direction) pretty hard.
May 01, 2017, 07:33 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkleinhenz View Post
I have the reversed-channel problem... got a pair of M9s from HorusRC earlier this month and installed them today, only to find out that the elevator channel is backwards, from +100 to -100. Am I the 2nd one to have this problem? I just sent a note to HorusRC, I hope they will help resolve this.

For right now I need to put the old gimbal back in.

Rich
Quick fix is to make custom curve to make it output the right values
May 01, 2017, 07:43 PM
Registered User

Quick change device


Anyone added a quick change device to switch the gimbal from self centering to no self centering?

Or any good idea to modify it?

Thanks in advance.

Formosa
May 01, 2017, 09:19 PM
can't resist a plane on sale..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinmorrow20 View Post
Quick fix is to make custom curve to make it output the right values
Again... I don't want to fix this in the model! But... I was able to fix the hardware, will load pictures shortly
May 01, 2017, 09:23 PM
can't resist a plane on sale..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Formosa View Post
Anyone added a quick change device to switch the gimbal from self centering to no self centering?

Or any good idea to modify it?

Thanks in advance.

Formosa
Yes, there is a screw you insert in the rocker bar, it's the silver screw that came in the baggie with the 4 black screws. It keeps the pivot point up. After that you can adjust tension and the amount of ratchet you want to feel. Take a look at
FrSky M9 High Sensitivity Hall Sensor Gimbal Installation For Taranis X9D Plus (3 min 58 sec)


Rich
May 01, 2017, 09:45 PM
can't resist a plane on sale..

Reversed channel - the fix


Quote:
Originally Posted by rkleinhenz View Post
I have the reversed-channel problem... got a pair of M9s from HorusRC earlier this month and installed them today, only to find out that the elevator channel is backwards, from +100 to -100. Am I the 2nd one to have this problem? I just sent a note to HorusRC, I hope they will help resolve this.
No response from supplier and unable to reach them by their US phone number I figured I'd at best be out for a few weeks or maybe I should just kiss the $25 or so good bye and order another from Aloft. So I took another look and realized that the hall sensors are on small circuit boards. I didn't think reversing them electrically would work, I believe people tried switching wires. I should imagine the circuit boards draw power from their leads, so reversing + and - is not the best idea - it really isn't a potentiometer, it's an active circuit. Either the chip is installed wrong on the circuitboard, or there is some misconfigured firmware. Anyway, since I can't flip the chip, I decided to try to flip the whole circuitboard - and indeed, it's physically is possible. I did it and now all works as intended!!! HURRAY!!!
May 02, 2017, 12:54 AM
Precision Aerobatics P plater
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpjf01 View Post
I offer the following comment.

Taranis gymbals including the M9 don't fit into the X9E without mechanical adjustments
The stock X9E gymbals are pretty much faultless
If an upgrade is considered essential there's always the Horus gymbals which already fit mechanically. There is a voltage difference (they are 5V) and there's information in the forum showing how to convert the voltage to fit the X9E.

The original X9E advance propaganda mentioned hall effect gymbals but they have not eventuated so far. FRSKY doesn't normally signal it's plans for future development too far forward these days so we don't know whether or not they will ever appear.
Thanks MPFJ
I have no problem with the stock gimbals as such, just with the wiring harnesses, which cause cross jitter. Was looking at killing 2 birds with one stone, moving to better technology at the same time.
Not sure if I want the hassle of the electriacl conversion at this point though.

Perhaps I'll hold my breath that FrSKY spreads to the X9E in due course.

A
May 03, 2017, 02:12 AM
Registered User
yesterday i received the m9 gimbals from bangood .. the feel of the movement is excelent the spring tension as it is from the box is much better than taranis ,.. now the problem ... i bought the seacraft v1 sticks i thought that this was a solution for the long sticks ... measured 20.5 mm and 4 mm thread with a alen screw on top like the stock ones that are 24.5 mm the problem is in the shaft of the stick the thread is 4 mm but the shaft of the stick is 5mm so when you screw the stick end (seacraft) it stuck on the end of the 5 mm shaft and the result is worse much more higher, i just read that bangood has sticks for m9 with 5$ and i paid 5 $ and 10 $ for shiping and does not work ..... :P
Last edited by GEORGE0310; May 03, 2017 at 02:27 AM.
May 03, 2017, 02:49 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmorrow20 View Post
had to share my new lotus stick ends from horusrc
is these stick ends are lower height than stock ones ???
Last edited by GEORGE0310; May 03, 2017 at 03:12 AM.
May 03, 2017, 10:30 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEORGE0310 View Post
is these stick ends are lower height than stock ones ???
About the same, might be a mm higher but, its a 2 piece stick end so removing the base will lower it like 4-5 mm, just doesnt look as nice without the base
May 06, 2017, 06:13 PM
Registered User
LittleMo's Avatar
Has anyone found a reliable way to get the stuck stick-ends loose so you can adjust the stick height? One of my gimbals was no problem but the other is impossible to loosen. I have the set-screw removed and even applied heat but the end will not budge.

This is so frustrating. I haven't been able to use my Taranis in over a year due to busted gimbals (I went through 2 whole sets, 4 gimbals). I finally find the M9's in stock and get them and now they're messed up too. Urge to kill rising... the radio that is, haha I need to contact aloft but figured I would ask here first.

Edit:
OK, I think I got it. I disassembled the gimbal and removed the stick then pulled the metal part out of the plastic mount. I then heated the metal stick to about 400F-500F for a few minutes. Then with two sets of pliers I was able to finally remove the cap. It did mar up the stick some even with protection but what can you do, it was still incredibly ridiculously difficult to remove even with the heat. Of course it had threadlocker on it (why FrSky, WHY?!). It wasn't just the threadlocker though, it was screwed crazy tight. I then soaked the metal pieces in acetone to remove the threadlocker. Washed with soap and water, then reinstalled everything.

I have really had bad luck with FrSky gimbals. I do fly a lot though (often over 40 hours a week if the weather is good) which is why I think I break them all the time. We'll see how these M9's go. I preemptively put extra strain relief on the wires because that's a big one that has cost me a lot of money in broken models.
Last edited by LittleMo; May 06, 2017 at 09:17 PM.
May 07, 2017, 08:40 PM
Test Pilot
teracis's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleMo View Post
Has anyone found a reliable way to get the stuck stick-ends loose so you can adjust the stick height? One of my gimbals was no problem but the other is impossible to loosen. I have the set-screw removed and even applied heat but the end will not budge.

This is so frustrating. I haven't been able to use my Taranis in over a year due to busted gimbals (I went through 2 whole sets, 4 gimbals). I finally find the M9's in stock and get them and now they're messed up too. Urge to kill rising... the radio that is, haha I need to contact aloft but figured I would ask here first.

Edit:
OK, I think I got it. I disassembled the gimbal and removed the stick then pulled the metal part out of the plastic mount. I then heated the metal stick to about 400F-500F for a few minutes. Then with two sets of pliers I was able to finally remove the cap. It did mar up the stick some even with protection but what can you do, it was still incredibly ridiculously difficult to remove even with the heat. Of course it had threadlocker on it (why FrSky, WHY?!). It wasn't just the threadlocker though, it was screwed crazy tight. I then soaked the metal pieces in acetone to remove the threadlocker. Washed with soap and water, then reinstalled everything.

I have really had bad luck with FrSky gimbals. I do fly a lot though (often over 40 hours a week if the weather is good) which is why I think I break them all the time. We'll see how these M9's go. I preemptively put extra strain relief on the wires because that's a big one that has cost me a lot of money in broken models.
Wow, 40h a week is a LOT of flying, do you fly for a job? Good luck with the gimbals either way!
May 08, 2017, 07:21 AM
the smell of nitro in the morn
Quote:
Originally Posted by MS52390 View Post
I believe I read somewhere that this might be due to excess lubrication on the metal pin that rests on the plastic coated metal arm. You could try to carefull hit this pin and contact area with some compressed air or maybe a dab with a dry Q-tip.

My question to you folks is...with the stick grub screw out, why can I not loosen/tighten the damn sticks? Full disclosure, I tried to twist them (the correct direction) pretty hard.
Myself and at least one other had had the same problem, i finally got one to move and gave up on the other, ( i was trying so hard the stick was comming out of the plastic base ) good luck.
Last edited by matt123; May 08, 2017 at 07:33 AM.


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