An Ablazing's Build Log of the MIKRO70
An Ablazing's Build Log of the MIKRO78
78mm size micro quad with dead cat arm design.
Frame including screws and standoff is only 10.5g
Bottom plate protects your ESC
Frame: Mikro70 - https://goo.gl/bElW2p
Flight Controller PIKO BLX Micro Flight Controller - https://goo.gl/eHXG7w
ESCs Sunrise Cicada 6a 4in1 ESC - https://goo.gl/KgYbKs
OR Racerstar 6a 4in1 ESC - https://goo.gl/KIJUZy
Motors - 4X Racerstar Racing Edition 1103 BR1103 8000KV https://goo.gl/a2WcLR
or 4X Racerstar Racing Edition 1104 BR1104 4000KV https://goo.gl/odWu0D
Propellers FuriousFPV High Performance 1935-4 Propellers - https://goo.gl/gNCG4m
FPV CAM+VTX Combo Eachine MC01 AIO - https://goo.gl/lM7rDo
Receiver Furious Mini RX - https://goo.gl/ZiChrT
Batteries ZOP Power 7.4V 500mAh 45C 2S Lipo Battery - https://goo.gl/BSpxw2
* I changed motors from 1104 to 1103 because I had just received them in the mail and this will be better for
indoor flying which I intend to do most of my flying. It will be lighter and make less noise overall. And not to mention, longer flight times.
The ESC plate is spot on 1.5mm The top plate is exactly 1.0mm And the main plate is 1.0mm
Sometimes the measurements can be off by a little bit, so It's pretty impressive that they got the measurements to be exact.
This is one of the smallest, if not the smallest micro quad you have ever seen.
It is truly a pocket drone that you can take everywhere with you.
The frame is made for the PIKO BLX flight controller and 20x20mm 4in1 esc, or you can use 4 tiny ESCs separately on the arms.
But, it's an easier and cleaner build with the 4in1 ESC.
It's definately not a build for beginners, you'll need some experience previously, however it's not impossible as a first ever build.
Just expect to pull your hair out, at least, more than a couple of times during your build.
If that's your cup of tea, then good luck, you're going to need it!
Even for me, at the beginning, I just sat there staring at all the pieces and wondered how all of it was going to fit together. Well, After a good 15 minutes or so, I then decide to make some necessary changes to the original build:
1. I'll start with the biggest change by taking out the bottom plate and putting it aside, I think we can do without it because
I'm using the 4in1 micro ESC from Cicada Sunrise. It allows us to mount the ESC on the inside,
and just under the PIKO BLX. So, we don't need the protection that the ESC plate offers, the 4in1 is better protected here.
And the battery shields us from underneath anyways.
2. Because we have taken out the bottom plate, we'll need to replace the standoffs and screws to support the new configuration.
I'm sorry I thought I added this part already, so the picture displayed on the left shows the standoffs and screws I have replaced. The ones on the right I'm replacing them with the ones on the left and the ones in the middle I have not changed from the original.
So I'm using 6mm screws, and the 8-9mm screws because I needed a long one to go through the ESC board, and enough for a little standoff to screw on.
And I had to use a slightly bigger standoff because the 6mm screws needed more threading.
As you can see, the original had the threadings sticking out at the bottom, it doesn't look very nice, so I got rid of it and the ESC plate altogether lol.
Below shows a problem I ran into, the small square plates(fets?) was in the way and wouldn't allow me to screw all the way down.
I had to realign it to fix the problem, sort of. Some of the standoffs I had to brute force it and the standoff would squeeze enough to
make it all leveled.
<----- It's fine now.
And here's a look at the frame without the ESC plate.
I changed motors from 1104 to 1103 because I had just received them in the mail and this will be better for indoor flying which I intend to do most of my flying. It will be lighter and make less noise overall. And not to mention, longer flight times.
One of the motor screws is a bit too close but the wire strand has heat shrink so it should be alright... right?
I would like some feedback on this please. thank you.
Well, I ended up chopping abit off and nearly cut into the heat shrink and motor wire lol. I should have unscrewed it first, which I wisely did after
the failed attempt. The second time at chopping a bit off the tiny m2 screw was successful and I resumed putting on the motors..
This is the best shot I could get.
The next motor was put on without many problems, although, one of the screws might be touching the heat shrink that is on the motor strand.
As you can see, I went under and threaded the motor wires through the holes, and then curve pass the inside of the nylon standoffs,
and then I plan to solder the wires from here. This will keep it looking clean, the easy route I could have taken is to go directly to the solder pads and solder the wires from the outside.
The third motor had a bit of a problem which lead to something rather funny.
The motor strand that usually have the heat shrink is sitting way to close to the screw hole and despite the
heat shrink, it is left too exposed right at the end. So, it's no problem, I can just chop off a little bit just like I've done before.
But this time the screw broke off a little bit too much and I decided to just skip it, I won't be putting a screw in that hole,
three screws should be enough to hold the motor. I've seen other people using only just two screws, so it should be fine.
To be continued....
This build is incomplete at the moment, I'll keep on updating it until it's finished.
Last edited by Ablazing; Feb 02, 2017 at 10:58 PM.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm using blue thread lock on the screws, so they don't unscrew themselves.
Medium strength threadlock, make sure you don't use any stronger, otherwise it will be hard to unscrew.
Anyways, I then put on the last motor, I use only 3 screws this time also because I didn't want to risk a short due to
one of the screws being a little bit too long. Although, it's only touching the heat shrink and not the wire strand itself.
It's looking very.. unwieldy at the moment.
I begin to measure the motor wires to the solder pads and cut them accordingly.
I then pre-tin the wires, these wires are really tiny and it was already very difficult just to cut them.
They are very delicate, too much heat and you will burn the plastic back too much, as you can see,
for some of them, I had the heat way too high at 400 degrees celsius.
After, I put the heat down to 350 degrees and made sure I left the soldering iron on the wire for only
half a sec, in and out, real quick to ensure I didn't burn the plastic coating too much.
I had to cut a bit of the wires to shorten them. I'm lucky I left quite a bit of length to the wires just in case this happens.
Always a good idea to have some wriggle room, you can always cut them down later if you need to.
The first soldered motor wire!
When soldering onto the solder pads, make sure you don't leave your soldering iron on for too long,
be quick as possible to avoid burning off the copper. At this size, they tend to burn much quicker.
I've managed to finish soldering the motor wires onto the ESC pads without further incident. *Thank God*.
<<< The Left Side | The Right Side >>>
Everything looks nicer now.
Here's how it looks with the PIKOBLX.
I planned to solder this pin(shown below) to connect the PIKOBLX directly to the 4in1 ESC.
However, I had forgotten this plan and pre-tinned the lipo pads on the PIKOBLX already and
now it was going to be so much harder to do.
It would have been so much easier to, pre-tin the pads with the pin already inside it, this would allow me to
line it up with the ESC pads in time. But now, it'll be too risky because I won't have the time to adjust the pin without
burning the pads.
In the end, I had to scrap this plan and I'll just solder on some very short wires to bring the gap from the ESC to the PIKOBLX.
Time to bring out the wires! I took out the positive and negative wires because we are not using the BEC that is provided by the
4in1, we don't need them and it makes it look neater.
*The BEC is only 3.3v and not 5v which is useless, I don't know why they even bothered
Then I measured approximately how much length I need for the wires to reach the ESC solder pads.
Then I cut the wires down to size and applied some solder paste to the ends of the wires to make it easier to pre-tin.
I then pass through underneath the ESC wires for motor 2 and 4, it just looks cleaner.
I try to hide the wiring every chance I get, it's just my preference. Which is weird, because I'm really messy IRL. lol
I have pre-tinned all the pads that I need on the PIKOBLX.
From underneath, bottom side up, I soldered the first wire onto the positive pad. And then I pre-tin the negative wire
and soldered it to the negative pad.
First, I turn over the FC board and I then cut these "bridging" wires down to about 5mm each.
And then I soldered it to the ESC pad's and I also soldered all the ESC signal wires down on the PIKOBLX.
To be continued....
This build is incomplete at the moment, I'll keep on updating it until it's finished.
Last edited by Ablazing; Jan 24, 2017 at 10:44 PM.
I changed the camera over to this smaller one. You can find this at myrcmart.com https://goo.gl/hF6RSA
But I wasn't sure yet about how I'm going to mount it, so I'll leave it for now and continue with the rest of the build.
Don't mind the micro losi pigtail, I wanted to use my brushed 1s lipo's because I didn't have any 2s lipos at the time. But that didn't turn out so I had to go with the original plan and solder on an xt30 pigtail. I only had to wait a couple of days for some of my 2s 500mah to arrive.
I felt I needed to put some liquid electrical tape on only two of the ESC solder joints because they looked a bit fragile
so a little dab of liquid tape will hold and protect them from breakage.
I changed to 20mm Nylon standoffs from the 18mm ones because my plan was not to use the ESC/battery plate and I didn't like the way it was poking out from the frame, also I didn't have any 18mm standoffs lying around to do a direct 1 to 1 swap.
Plus, the extra space came in handy later on in the build..
Getting ready to solder on the receiver and camera by pre-tinning the solder pads.
I'm going to just use some double sided tape to mount the camera. It's nice and simple.
Then, I solder the positive and negative wires to the corresponding solder pads on the the PIKOBLX.
If you guys need manual, it's here - http://furiousfpv.com/dev/Piko%20BLX%20FC%20Manual.pdf
For some reason, I started cutting the FuriousFPV propellers down to size because some blades were longer than the others.
So beware, if you did buy them.
I attached the receiver on top of the Pikoblx with some double-sided foam tape and tie the antenna around the aluminium column along with the xt30 pigtail.
And then I solder the wires: Black is negative, Red is the +5V, Yellow is SBUS and Green is the Frsky telemetry.
At first, I had quite a long tail but then I trimmed it down. Isn't he cute now!
I ended up using the ESC plate after all because it was the only way I could stick on a velcro strip underneath.
But I used different standoffs so it ended up looking like this. Hehe it's a little bit curved.
And now... The weigh in!
First, we'll weigh the Mikro with no props and no lipo...
Coming in at...
44 grams without the lipo.
And with the lipo
it's 78 grams!
Yay! Build Log complete!
Now it's time for me to start on the video review which I'll release soon on my youtube channel https://goo.gl/2g6yMJ and I'll announce it first on
facebook at www,facebook.com/ablazingskies
You can also check out my other build log I've just started of the Xbee-X V2 at https://goo.gl/H563S7
and I will also be releasing another video review for one of Realacc's latest frame that came in the Banggood store recently
so subscribe and stay tuned for that!
I hope you guys enjoyed this build log and....
Thanks for READING and I'll see you guys next time!
More pics incoming..
Last edited by Ablazing; Feb 06, 2017 at 01:26 AM.
Please shave down your standoffs, so they can clear the FETs and other components on the PCB! Just use an Xacto blade to cut down the ends to a narrower diameter. It's a bit tedious, but well worth it.
Alternatively, you can use a couple of O-rings to help the standoffs clear nearby components.
But it looks fine now anyways. I'll put up a photo of it.
I am almost done with this same frame, I am doing an ultra light build with rx1102's, racerstar 6A 4in1 esc, piko obviously and the LR1000 receiver. I say ultra light but to be honest I think our components are the exact same weight lol. However since I decided to use the 1102's I got a bunch of 300mah 45-90c nano-techs, they are only 18g. Anyways great build log
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