Eachine Falcon 210 Pro CC3D Naze32 F3 FPV Racer OSD--Official Thread(Free review) - Page 26 - RC Groups
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May 31, 2017, 08:46 AM
Dutch RC Reviewer
Dutch 79's Avatar
That's quite long, I get 7/8 minutes with 4s 1300mah battery and VTX on.
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May 31, 2017, 02:56 PM
aka RCFlyer85
Irock1985's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stefano225
Hi folks, I got a Falcon 210 pro naze32 ARF on the way and my question is which wires for ppm or ibus . I got the er130 ARF naze32 and wired in ppm first 3 wires from main port but not sure if the falcon is the same . I would like to wire this one ibus and I will be using a Flysky FSi6/ FS-iA6B combo. If someone could list the steps in configuring Ibus mode that would be greatly appreciated I am still learning cleanflight/betaflight configuration and could use a little help. Thank you in advance and happy flying.
Naze 32 .... Your not really going to have room for that receiver...
May 31, 2017, 04:22 PM
Registered User
stefano225's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irock1985
Naze 32 .... Your not really going to have room for that receiver...
Forgot to mention I also got X6B on the way , I just need to find out how to wire either receiver in Ibus or ppm . I am going to use the iA6B temporarily mounted on top .
Jun 01, 2017, 08:50 PM
Registered User
stefano225's Avatar
I finally got the Falcon 210 pro ARF naze 32 today and figure out ppm wiring , I did a dump and flashed the new naze 32 version after flying stock and still getting lots of oscillation in angle and horizon it gets better when switching to acro. Anyone experiencing bad oscillation out of the box and what was corrected to achieve a more stable flying quad . As it is right now it feels jittery and will flip when landing on a hard surface so I just drop it on grass untilI I can tame it down. Also the leds just flash red and sometimes green and I just don't know how to change it.
Last edited by stefano225; Jun 01, 2017 at 09:04 PM.
Jun 02, 2017, 08:27 PM
Registered User
stefano225's Avatar
Can someone post the order for pwm wiring which color goes to what channel using the FS-iA6B Receiver ? Right now I got it configured ppm but wanted to try pwm I just couldn't figure it out . Thanks in advance
Jun 05, 2017, 12:21 PM
Registered User
stefano225's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stefano225
Can someone post the order for pwm wiring which color goes to what channel using the FS-iA6B Receiver ? Right now I got it configured ppm but wanted to try pwm I just couldn't figure it out . Thanks in advance
And the answer is as follow:
Roll/Ch 1= Double blue
Pitch/Ch 2=Double yellow
Throttle/Ch 3=white/red/black
Yaw/Ch 4=green
Aux 1 or 2 =blue
Aux 1 or 2 =yellow
Of course I have to figure this out on my own .
I had looked at a picture from soloprofan review but the wiring must be different from a naze32 to an f3 fc. Anyway wiring in ppm mode you swap white with double blue in case someone needs that info . Reason for pwm is now the leds work as they should, indicating direction of the quad.
Jun 05, 2017, 10:28 PM
GOT WINGS
siriusflier's Avatar
Maybe this will help, I had to take my recieiver out a couple of days ago to replace an antenna. I took this picture of the wiring to make it easier. Channel 1 is on the right. It is this receiver, https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-Wa...603.html?rmmds label side facing down. I also had to figure this out on my own, but I had another F210 Pro with the receiver already installed to look at. Mostly I went by pictures on my review thread.
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Jun 14, 2017, 10:02 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch 79
That's quite long, I get 7/8 minutes with 4s 1300mah battery and VTX on.
F3 version

Same here im using infinity 1500mah 4s 70c graphine's And i get 7.5 minutes 4.2 to 3.7. Hard flying , lot of punch outs. Props are very close to this battery.


Just for fun i tried some Morpilot 2200mah 2c 30c batteries i use in a syma x8 i still have. Not a rocket, but Turns it in to a kitten and a fun little flyer with about 10 minutes of fly time.

But tonight i took it easy on the 4s infinitys and flew it like a Hubsan 501. and got over 11minutes of fly time. setting the flysky transmitter to back to 50% throttle. Only way to get that much time is put the "governor" on it.


Mine flew fine out the box. Put Ducth RC's PID settings on it. Off a Youtube vid. Flies very smooth now.

I paid around $69 after the 20% coupon. I ordered a second im waiting on for either parts to build my own with a larger frame. Or whatever.

got some Longer standoffs. It's all a tight fit, But i'd like a little more room.

I took my ia6 receiver out of the Plastic case and mounted it in the back of the quad with some Hot Glue.

And i have a VTX3 mounted in the front behind a CCD tvl 1000.

Mounting a Minim OSD in this weekend

Question??

Is anyone running a Underslung battery on their 210 pro??

If so does it still Acro still fine. Or is the balance off??


Guess i'll just give it a try tomorrow and see how she flies.

Altogether i have about $95 in this quad. I Fly 3 packs a day after work for the last month. And 2 packs in my hubsan 501s. Im usually in that forum.

I've seen bad reviews on this model, but couldnt resist the price either, I got a ringer out the box, hope my other one is the same that's on the way.
Jun 26, 2017, 08:25 AM
Registered User
stefano225's Avatar
So I been trying to get rid of the jittery problem adjusting the pids but this naze 32 board is been very pia . Thinking the gyros are the problem I ordered an f3 fc and a 210 frame to transfer the motors and escs to( I dont like the pancake style frame not easy to work on) anyhow I just noticed that 3 of the motors have an up and down play , would that be the cause of the jitter problem? and do I add spacers to the bottom shaft after removing the clip ?
Aug 18, 2017, 09:03 PM
Fan of pusher multirotors
Tachikoma's Avatar
Are the exact motors this quad uses known? "MT2204" only brings up Emax motors, which are superficially similar but different - cosmetically at least, and I assume internally as well.
Aug 19, 2017, 01:44 AM
Dutch RC Reviewer
Dutch 79's Avatar
They are no longer available.

I'd suggest to get some Racerstar motors.
https://www.banggood.com/search/br22...8&rmmds=search

They are very good for the money.
Aug 19, 2017, 09:25 AM
GOT WINGS
siriusflier's Avatar
You could get a set of the original motors plus all the parts that go on the quad except for the RX, camera, and VTX for $56 US here: https://www.banggood.com/collection-...middle-details . I bought one of those, put a receiver on it, and have another E210 pro to go with my original. A lot of spare parts cheap.
Sep 07, 2017, 02:07 PM
Fan of pusher multirotors
Tachikoma's Avatar
Is anyone flying with bottom-mounted batteries? I'm just about done rewiring my new 210 pro (removed the LEDs and a lot of useless wiring from the innards, now everything is soldered with just as much wire as needed) and the position of the battery has me very worried. There are bare millimetres from the props to the battery, and if I mount it vertically so as to give it more space it wobbles around. And this is on 3S - I anticipate the problem becoming more serious on bigger 4S batteries.

I'm thinking of somehow hooking the strap the other way around so it anchors the battery to the bottom instead. I'm not a huge fan of bottom-mounted batteries, but - given some kind of plate placed at the bottom of the strap to give it some protection - I'm thinking it's less risky than having it that close to the buzzsaws. Also the soft bottom would prevent it from flopping around.

This would also have the significant benefit of being able to mount a Runcam 2 where the battery used to be.
Sep 11, 2017, 06:48 PM
Fan of pusher multirotors
Tachikoma's Avatar
So I'm not sure if there's still any interest at all about this quad in the forum given the deafening silence as of late, but since several redditors have posted to /r/multicopter that they bought a Falcon 210 Pro during BG's recent ultra-flash-sale (the BnF version was on sale for like $70), and since they're bound to happen across this thread from the first Google result I thought I'd showcase how I built up and improved mine.

I bought the BnF version. I immediately removed the motor protectors and replaced the screws with shorter ones (required to avoid hitting the windings without the protectors in place), then opened the frame and found everything connected with miles of wire squeezed under the FC and indeed every which where. Clearly that wouldn't do.

For starters I unsleeved the ESCs and unsoldered the motors...



All pics are clickable for higher res

...which required soldering through that yellow gunk. Fortunately it gets stripped easily with needlenose pliers once it has been heated up enough. (Apologies for the odd screw - I misplaced the one I needed and the closest thing at hand was in the box of random PC parts)

Then I removed the LED board.



I don't need the LEDs since I fly FPV freestyle exclusively, and taking them off makes life a lot easier for subsequent work, especially concerning the VTX.

I then set about depinning the PDB, since I don't like connectors.



I'm a big fan of reliable and non-corrodible soldered joints, and since I have a soldering station and a lifetime's experience with the iron it doesn't trouble me very much if something needs to be unsoldered every now and then.

Removing the connectors also gave me more space to fit...



...the FrSky XM+ receiver right under the FC. This quad is known for having the receiver hanging awkwardly off the side, but with this micro-sized one I can just squeeze it out of the way and get rid of that problem. If you opt for this configuration remember to bind it before fitting the rest of the hardware; I mounted it such that I can press the bind button with something narrow from the side if need be, but I'll be really happy if I never have to do that.

Also visible in the picture: a micro minimOSD, with the receiver's RSSI pad connected to it.

I didn't have any full-size cameras available, but I still had the leftover camera module from when I busted the inductor on my X73S' all-in-one bundle. It's no Foxeer, but it's quite good for the standards of microcams and significantly better than the only alternative currently available to me - a QX90 camera. Out came the melt glue...



...in went the module.

Say hello!



Then it was time for the VTX to go in. Following my desire to avoid using connectors I traced the VideoIN pin to a pad on the edge of the board and soldered a wire there.



GND is easy to find - anywhere the metal can is soldered to is GND. VCC is on the four pads in the corner on the other side - it's the one closest to the corner itself.

Then I temporarily double-side-taped it to the PDB.



Later on I added a ziptie around it and the PDB to better secure it.

Then I mounted the FC, unsoldered from it the channel connector and soldered in the power and channel wires.



Not visible in this picture: a solder joint on the underside of the FC which connects direct battery voltage tapped from one of the PDB's regulators to the VBAT pad.

Unfortunately I then made a mess that cost me another afternoon of profanity. Since everything in this quad is meant to stay in place once it's put together the minimOSD can't be unplugged at will, and that means I couldn't connect it to UART1, because UART1 is shared with the USB connection and if something else is hooked up to it the ability to connect the FC to the computer is lost. But I couldn't connect it to UART3 either, because that's needed by the SBUS receiver. So I had to connect it to UART2, but there are no pads on the board for that as there are for the other two UARTs. The no-connectors-ever philosophy requires direct joints, though, so I tried soldering to the pins on the back.

That went poorly.



The whole connector snapped off, lifting the trace for the RX solder pad and then taking it out completely. After scratching my head for a while I went online and looked up the processor's datasheet, then I traced the surviving TX pad to one of the processor's pins and, in accordance to the datasheet, assumed the pin close to it to be the correct one. A barely visible stub of trace - much too small to solder to, but juuuust about touchable with the multimeter's sharp probes - confirmed this. Fortunately I have an ultra-tiny soldering station for really precise solder jobs (which I use, like, three times a year, but am I glad I bought in those few situations), so I was able to solder a wire directly to the relevant pin on the processor...



...and then drowned the whole thing in epoxy to forever secure it in place.

Also note the buzzer soldered to the board and pointing out the side. A quad without a buzzer is a quad you only crash once.

With that done I soldered up the wires to the minimOSD...



...and the wiring was finally complete.

For the VTX I'm planning to use this stubby (and very lightweight) dipole I ordered from BG a while ago.



I don't expect great tree penetration from it, but then the TX526 transmitter can be switched all the way up to 600mW, so brute force should make up for the lack of finesse. Should that not be enough I also have a DYS cloverleaf antenna I can use. That rubber band around the antenna, by the way, is there so I can thread the battery's balance lead through it and not have it end up in the propellers.

Also note the big pad of foam rubber, there to hold the battery securely in place and stop it from flopping about. The propellers spin really close to the battery, so this is very important to prevent sliced cells.

Note as well the downward diversity antennas. It's hard enough to find enough space on this quad for one antenna if it has to point up, because the prop discs cover basically all the available space, so I decided to have them point downward. The zipties bend flat when the quad's on the ground but unfold to their correct position (approximately 90 in respect to each other) once it takes flight.

And now for the glamour shot:



Note that it's not spinning the stock props; these are GEPRC 5040, slightly lighter than the stock 5045 bullnoses. There's a reason nobody flies pure bullnoses anymore - they're needlessly inefficient compared to hybrid designs like these, and it's a good idea to use conservative props anyway since the 2204 motors are smaller and weaker than the 2205/2306 everybody uses nowadays - great for power-efficient training, not so great for spinning butch thrusty propellers.

----------------------------------------

Bare weight: 290gr

All-up weight with Turnigy 3S 1.4Ah: 410 gr

All-up weight with Turnigy BoltV2 4S LiHV 1.3Ah: 465gr

Estimated with Runcam 2 powered off the PDB, including styrofoam spacer, strap and wires: +40gr

----------------------------------------

Software-wise I flashed Betaflight 3.2RC4 (currently the newest version). One oddity: the motor order is wrong. I know for a fact that I soldered the channels correctly - I quadruple-checked - and they were fine in stock Betaflight before I set about working on the quad, so all I can think of is that the connector I unsoldered from the FC had some traces crossing over to switch the channels around. In any case, spinning them up in the motor tab had the numbers all wrong. After significant puzzlement I discovered that, whether by sheer dumb luck or by some configuration quirk, the current order perfectly matches the "Quad 1234" mixer setting. I only needed to switch it to that to have everything work right and was spared having to tinker with resource reassignment.

Also one of the ESCs is completely invisible to BLHeli. I cursed at this for a bit, wondering all the while what can cause an ESC to work perfectly but not show up in the configurator, but after failing with every remedy I could find I decided I couldn't be arsed chasing this problem any further. I reversed the motors that were spinning in the wrong direction by inverting two of their wires and left the ESCs on default values (which do include damping out of the box, by the way). A bodge is just as good as an actual fix if the result is the same.

It's been raining incessantly here so I can't do a proper FPV flight yet, but I LOS'd it at the local park for a bit during a weather break and it seems to fly fine. I have a dump from stock BF 3.1.0 so I might give those PIDs a shot, but then again maybe not - from what I've seen there was no jitter on stock Betaflight PIDs, though it really wasn't a long enough flight to be sure.

----------------------------------------

TODO:

- check amp draw with the power meter, configure the virtual sensor

- experiment with 5040 quadblade propellers (I use them on my other miniquad with 2205 motors and they've turned me into a proper convert, but I worry about overloading the smaller motors on the 210)

- build a narrow styrofoam spacer so I can mount a Runcam 2 on top of the camera mount

- if I like flying it enough that I eventually start yearning to unleash the beast within, replace the motors with Emax 2205 redbottoms with RS30A ESCs and spinning 5040 quadblades or 5045 tris
Last edited by Tachikoma; Sep 11, 2017 at 07:19 PM.
Sep 14, 2017, 01:06 AM
Fan of just about anything RC
SoloProFan's Avatar
Nice rebuilt. I was considering to do the same with mine, but then quads came along that don't have the battery so close to the props and I sold it for a low price to a co-worker, and used the money to get some batteries. Co-worker spent some time training with it, then moved on to the X220 and sold the Falcon again after it broke down. Last I heard is that it has been fixed and is now flying again.


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