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Dec 03, 2016, 02:56 PM
I'm not as bad as they say.
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Build Log

Building Falke


I will do my best to document building the 1 meter Falke kit. Apparently there are some people that have never built a wooden model airplane, so this could be a real experience.
I've been told that you don't get your real sailplane card until you have built a gentle lady, but that seems like ancient history now.

Most guys have assembled parts into a DLG. Building a kit is similar, it's just that you have to build the big parts from smaller parts first.

The good news is that the falke kit is well made and no real balsa carving and shaping is required, except for the nose block.

Dillman and I will team up on this build, building two at a time. I think we can get them built in one Saturday, at least up to the final assembly stage. Certainly we can finish in one weekend.

For you building virgins, you might take a little longer. You can fix just about anything on a balsa plane, so don't get super anal about the build.

First thing is you need a few tools that you may not have for composite models. Some of these you may be able to borrow from some old guy. Some you might just buy, because you will probably build another model of this type.

The covering iron will be necessary no matter what covering you use ( unless you decide to cover with tape). If you buy one, I can recommend the hangar 9, as it holds temperature very accurately and has other uses, like welding wing cover plastic.

You need a sanding block or tbar. The tbar came from the hardware store. The 220 sandpaper held on with a light coat of 3m77 that isnt allowed to dry before putting on. ( makes it remove able.)

The first rule of balsa models is to never sand with your bare fingers, especially a wing. This makes wavy finger grooves in whatever you are building.

White glue is tough and flexible and will work good for falke. Try to get something that is labeled easy to sand. I use luthier glue for making guitars, but titebond will do. If you are not pressed for time 30 minute epoxy, used sparingly, makes the tailboom tougher.

Tpins make things easier, but regular pins will do.
The last thing you will need is a building surface that will be flat and hold pins. Most people use the back side of a celotex ceiling tile. But a soft pine board will work. Keep in mind that you plane will be only as straight as your building board is flat.

Other items will come to mind and I will try to back annotate this post to keep the tools list in one place.

Hopefully the kits will arrive soon and we can get started.

--mickey
Last edited by mnowell129; Dec 03, 2016 at 04:18 PM.
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Dec 03, 2016, 03:23 PM
I don't want to "Switch Now"
pmackenzie's Avatar
A piece of drywall makes a great building board. Cheap and flat.

Pat MacKenzie

P.S. built my GL more than 30 years ago, still flying it
Dec 03, 2016, 03:59 PM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Thread OP
I had a left over stab and rudder from a previous build.
I also want to try to cover one model with doculam. Thanks to PalmettoFlyer!
So here are some tease pictures on the stab and elevator.
Follow along with the pictures.
Take note that the stab groove is on the bottom for a top mounted stab.
If you are going to mount the servos in the stock position the horn for the elevator should be on the right.
Think this through before you sand the elevator so that the groove ends up on the bottom with the horn on the right hand side of the fuse.

Note if you are a lefty, reverse everything, including when you build the fuse.
Last edited by mnowell129; Dec 03, 2016 at 05:05 PM.
Dec 03, 2016, 09:19 PM
Registered User
Mickey,
Do you have an english version of the manual you can put in the thread?
Thanks,
Jeff
Dec 03, 2016, 09:21 PM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwman
Mickey,
Do you have an english version of the manual you can put in the thread?
Thanks,
Jeff
It's kinda english, google translate with some notes.
Maybe a bilingual german/english modeller can clean it up?
Latest blog entry: AIrcraft I've built.
Dec 03, 2016, 09:55 PM
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Thanks
Dec 04, 2016, 09:36 AM
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mhodgson's Avatar
Looking at the instructions the joint of the boom fus pod looks perfect point for snapping. If I may suggest some reinforcement across the joint.
Nice looking model, shame the servos dangle in the open. Simple, practicle but so ugly.
Dec 04, 2016, 03:29 PM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Thread OP
The doculam experiment continues.
I sprayed a little acrylic color on the bare balsa and then covered with doculam 1.2 mil.
The fin is 5.5g, curiously almost identical to an NXT vertical. Amazing how far planes have come.
Doculam works, at least on the vertical. Torsional stiffness seems at least as good if not better than the solite covered one.
Latest blog entry: AIrcraft I've built.
Dec 04, 2016, 03:37 PM
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They did some really nice Doculam colour schemes over in the Evo-W thread by painting the adhesive side of the Doculam before covering



https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=774
Dec 04, 2016, 04:14 PM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmackenzie
They did some really nice Doculam colour schemes over in the Evo-W thread by painting the adhesive side of the Doculam before covering


https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=774
I wonder what that does to the adhesive...
Latest blog entry: AIrcraft I've built.
Dec 04, 2016, 04:28 PM
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pmackenzie's Avatar
He mentioned that :
"It seems like it doesn't stick quite as well as unpainted, which is to be expected. However, it does stick."

I guess the trick is to put the paint on thin. Does look nice
Dec 04, 2016, 04:33 PM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmackenzie
He mentioned that :
"It seems like it doesn't stick quite as well as unpainted, which is to be expected. However, it does stick."

I guess the trick is to put the paint on thin. Does look nice
I'll stick to painting the wood first, the acrylic paint kinda soaked into the wood and the doculam stuck pretty good.
Latest blog entry: AIrcraft I've built.
Dec 04, 2016, 08:24 PM
Lift is where you find it.
I've done a lot of covering with laminating film, but never tried painting it. From what I read somewhere on RCG Doculam takes paint pretty well on the non-adhesive side.
Dec 04, 2016, 08:25 PM
I don't want to "Switch Now"
pmackenzie's Avatar
Where are you getting the Doculam? What thickness are you using?

Thanks,

Pat MacKenzie
Dec 04, 2016, 09:09 PM
Transplant Chey WY from Reno
Thermaln2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmackenzie
Where are you getting the Doculam? What thickness are you using?

Thanks,

Pat MacKenzie
I think I have a huge roll wo doculam, so let me check. If I do, I can pass on some.

Chris


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