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Jul 18, 2017, 07:00 PM
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Cherokee Flyer's Avatar
Take a piece of 6 mm plywood and clamp the beams to it with a reference line then mount the engine to them. This will insure the engine is right on the mount and the mount is square. Then you can mark the fire wall and mount it all up.

I have a roll of the Hobbyking covering, but never have used it yet. That being said, it has been getting good reports and is very nice priced.

L.
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Jul 19, 2017, 09:06 AM
Registered User
G'day Bernie

Can you flick me a picture of the motor mount to my phone .....I may have one in my box full of goodies that I don't use (electric flight for me ) and what sort of torque is needed on those servos ...rudder/elevator or ailerons ? Standard servos ?
Jul 19, 2017, 12:44 PM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
Ended up wasting a lot more time on this engine mounts thing than I had in mind, in the end I decided to stick with this type of mount, so I can drill the firewall for it now and fit the T-nuts, get new mounts and they'll fit. Later I'll drill for the engine bolts. I don't have to do that yet so I can proceed with fuselage construction before I get new parts. In these photos I haven't yet drilled for throttle cable or feed and exhaust lines, got a little planning to do first. I bought extra-long drill bits for exactly this job on the last model, so I can come back later and drill with the firewall in place, allowing me to trial-fit the tank etc. and work out the best run for the lines.

The fuselage sides arrived cut in 2 to fit in a smaller box, otherwise shipping would have been really outrageous. So BTE sent it with the sides neatly cut about 1/3 from the tail, and included 2 little patches to cover the splice.

Build logs of other Venture 60's have some tips you hear repeated, such as placing the main gear forward to help prevent nose-overs. I plan to fly it at the same field where my other model's been bogging down in the wet so I'm going to try this. I don't want to move the mounting plate so I'll position the legs as far forward on that plate as I can. That only gains me about 30mm / 1-1/4" but it might make the difference.
Last edited by BernardW; Jul 19, 2017 at 01:55 PM.
Jul 19, 2017, 05:02 PM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
Before assembling the fuselage there's some prep work to do for the landing gear plate, former F2 and F2D, and a fuselage doubler. You can see the pairs of T-nuts for the landing gear halves aren't quite in line, that's because they're different on the legs themselves. F2/F2D I used polyurethane glue, which I like for area-gluing pieces this size. But for the fuselage doubler I used epoxy, as the problem with poly is that it foams up and expands. Had to mix up a fair bit of glue even though I spread it as thinly as I could. You can see I'm a big believer in clamping your pieces while the glue cures. I did this with F2/F2D, even so they still shifted slightly, and it was tricky getting the clamps on in the first place without them sliding. I've had that problem a lot with epoxy. This is full-strength or 24-hour epoxy (Araldite), you have to give it plenty of time to set up, and keep the pieces locked down until they're stable. I'd say a minimum 6 hours, 8+ to be safe. That's almost all of my spring clamps so I have to wait for this before I can start on the next side. I use those ice cream sticks as spreaders, I made massive use of them on the last build and they're very helpful. They're more to prevent denting but they help avoid separation of the pieces between clamps. OK that's it for tonight, they were some tedious jobs but they're done. I do like this build-up kit thing, all the satisfaction of building your own without the drag of making all the parts first, or making them inaccurately.
Jul 20, 2017, 02:18 AM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
I like this kit, great quality and fit, easy to build. But I've been thinking, I never really liked the way most canopied models use a flat cockpit floor and a head-and-shoulders pilot. I'd rather do a quasi-scale cockpit and a full pilot figure, then if the model crashes I can dishonourably discharge the pilot into space and replace it. That or just tint the canopy and leave it bare underneath. I'm considering cutting a hole in the cockpit floor and doing a real cockpit. I know, I know, it's weight, it's silly and all that but I'd just look at it otherwise and never like it. I asked Mr. Tharpe if it would weaken the structure, he says it should be OK if I leave a 1/4" lip. When the seat goes in he suggests a cross brace. I wanted to do a nicer dashboard anyway but my problem is knowing when to stop.

Side 2 of the fuselage is setting up now, with all the clamps from the other side once it'd had long enough to cure. Got a few things to do back in the real world and then it'll be a frenzy of model making tonight, stay tuned.
Last edited by BernardW; Jul 20, 2017 at 07:52 AM.
Jul 20, 2017, 07:45 AM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
I got the wing panels out to install the dual aileron servo kit and realised I hadn't done the centre section sheeting on one panel. So I'm getting on with those and giving the fuselage doublers more time for the epoxy to cure so they don't separate when I start assembly. Another job is to join the panels and fit the dihedral brace, I might take this to my friend's place so I can do it on a larger working space with room to accurately jig it up for correct dihedral. But, I'm sure I'll get to a stage where I have to wait for glue to cure again so setting that up here might be a good job next time that happens.
Last edited by BernardW; Jul 20, 2017 at 11:17 AM.
Jul 20, 2017, 11:35 AM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
Another slow job, as was sheeting the centre section of the other wing panel. BTE doesn't precision cut small sheets this thin as they'll only warp over time, so they're oversize and you cut them to fit yourself. I like aliphatic for this job, and I weigh the sheets down with gravel bags to cure. I use a syringe with a blunt large gauge tip for gluing edges, excellent control and almost no wastage. For curves like that LE sheet I glue the front edge and a little of the ribs, dampen the upper surface so it curves towards the ribs, then glue and it needs little force to hold in place while it sets.

I'm also installing the dual aileron servo mounts, starting with these rails. Easy job but I want to get the wings as close as possible to finished, and it's something to get on with while giving the fuselage doublers longer for the epoxy to cure. It's good to have the model coming along.
Jul 21, 2017, 09:04 AM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
Just a couple of little things for now, I'll try and spend some time on it but I need to put a ltttle time in on my trainer getting it ready for a field trip tomorrow, the forecast looks... OK I guess, but the model should be in the best shape I've had it so I'm looking forward to that.

This is just installing the wing dowel support plate on one wing panel, I should have done this one before adding the TE sheets but I found a way, a blob of blu-tac on a stick so I could manipulate it, and sanded the edges to fit. I was annoyed because I couldn't find the 2nd plate, but I'd already installed it in the other wing panel, the last place I'd look - that's what I get for leaving the build for 6 months, you forget where you got to. While I was working on the wing I noticed the upper TE sheeting had a gap between it and the TE itself, must have missed it with the glue, so I've injected some more and clamped to be sure it grabs. This sheeting needs to be solid for strength and after this I'll poke the nose of my CA bottle under it to ensure every rib has a good bond to it. The manual says it's important for strength to make sure every joint is strongly glued and with this wing I believe it.

All I'm going to do otherwise is sand those centre sheets smooth as they're thick enough to stand proud of the spars.
Last edited by BernardW; Jul 21, 2017 at 01:58 PM.
Jul 21, 2017, 09:42 AM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
Looking at the mounting system for the wing brace, I'm missing something. How do I make the slot in the 2nd rib for the dihedral brace now? If you've got the build manual, have a look on page 2 and see if I've missed it. I don't see why the centre two ribs for each panel couldn't have been cut in two with a gap for the dihedral brace, rather than having to cut it mounted in place after assembling the panels. I wish I'd paid more attention to the manual and worked this out in advance, I would have happily modified those ribs myself. It's hard to understand why it's done this way considering the spars would accurately locate the front/rear rib halves for you if they were supplied in 2 parts. Slotting the end (centre) ribs for the brace isn't that hard but the next ones will be, working through that missing piece of sheeting. But, it's gotta be done so I'm just going to have to find a way.

EDIT - I emailed BTE asking for help and got an answer I can use. He suggests gluing a suitable blade onto a ply stick (one of those pop sticks will do fine) and rough-cutting it, then cleaning it up with a sanding stick. I was just making a sander when his reply arrived. It'll work, I still wish I'd realised i could have cut that rib in two either side of the slot before assembly. Oh well, so long as it works.
Last edited by BernardW; Jul 21, 2017 at 02:00 PM.
Jul 21, 2017, 12:18 PM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
OK, worked well enough. As always it's easy when you know how, and I learned a new trick... I still think my way would've been better Be advised if you're planning on building a Venture 60, you'll meet this question. I might sand the slots open a touch more, they're a snug fit but I'd rather use epoxy here than CA, and a tight fit won't let the glue in. Or, I might use some scrap along the edges of the brace for more glue area.
Jul 21, 2017, 01:16 PM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
Dammit I'm going to have to make a new firewall... I was assuming there was 2 degrees right thrust, but I hadn't actually checked. On the plans there's a note, quite clearly, 0 degrees side thrust. The problem is I offest those engine mount holes to allow for 2 degrees right thrust, so that the prop hub would have ended up back on the centreline. They're all set about 4mm to the left. Maybe it's OK, but I don't like it. The good news is I've got good material to make a new one and a scroll saw to do it with and I can get it done tomorrow. I'm glad I worked it out before I glued everything together, so at least I won't be stuck with it. Gotta think about it first, is it ok or not... it's more that it would offend me knowing it's wrong. Anyone think I should leave it be and not worry about it, or since it's not a major problem to do so, would you replace it?
Jul 21, 2017, 01:43 PM
Registered User
Cherokee Flyer's Avatar
I think Bruce has a pretty good idea how his kits should be built, thus the note on the plans. He seems to be very successful with his kits since the biggest issue he has is keeping them in stock.

L.
Jul 21, 2017, 01:54 PM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
Yeah I guess so - such a successful kit with a reputation as a sweet flyer, and my goal here was to do it by the book. So I think I'll make that new firewall, I was probably really always going to do that. What a shame, I'd never bought myself any 1/4" a/c ply before so I liked having this part. But, I do have very strong 1/4" hardwood marine ply, I used that on the other build and both times it bore the brunt of a crash without so much as a crack so I know it's good stuff, and my sheet of stock isn't warped. I built a dog house out of it in school when I was 15 and it's still fine (more a matter of the finish, but it's only ever had primer on it.) I'd only ever look at this model knowing that I'd made that error and regret it, so I suppose that settles it. That scroll saw is under-used so it's a perfect excuse to fire it up. While I'm at it I hope to cut out a template for some ribs for the next build too (ugly stik 66" span - funny but all 3 have ended up with that same measurement. This one got clipped, the last one got extended, that one will be stock).
Jul 21, 2017, 07:04 PM
Mumbling in the corner.
flyboy2610's Avatar
You'll have fun with that Ugly Stik! It's my favorite plane on my RealFlight 7.5 simulator. (I put a 3-bladed prop on it. Don't tell anyone.)
It's definitely a "go where you point it plane"!
Jul 22, 2017, 06:01 PM
What could possibly go wrong?
Thread OP
Just some sanding today. Centre skins on both wing panels and the roots so they match together nicely. Haven't finished all the sanding, I'd like to do that TE with my long flat sander so it's nice and flat. Nearly ready to join the panels though I might hold off for now, still got the aileron mounts to finish and it's more convenient while the wing's in two pieces. I'll make a new firewall today, after today's adventures in a water-logged cow paddock I was about over it by the time I got home, had a hot shower and a nap instead. Those boots will never be the same. I'll blog that adventure later.

If I can't get that firewall done today I'll find something else to keep going with, I'm sure there's something. I've got Du Bro axles fitted to another set of landing gear I bought for a plans-built V60 that never happened, but those are a bit scratched up so I'll use this fresh pair. Once I settle on a colour scheme I might prime and paint them to match.


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