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Feb 16, 2021, 08:40 PM
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I was thinking square plastic tubing screwed through the frame as a mount. the issue is going to be weight. maybe some k110 servos and some hot glue for a first test.... I am 100% with Craig on a fancy frame replacement... not going to happen If I was going to do that, I would buy a 150S frame tail boom mount, and tail motor mount. the FBL can be flashed to a 150s by deleting it from the list, and re-adding it as a 150s FBL. the k110 servos, if they have enough torque, are $3 or so each for the HobbyKing ones... CHEAP
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Feb 16, 2021, 10:06 PM
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kiwi_craig's Avatar
i think the k110 servos will be to light.

Needs to be a small metal geared servo ideally, or the emax servos we use in the K120

simple flat plate that screws onto the current mounts with lugs to attach the servos - maybe a 3D printed plate - lugs.

canopy pins kinda get in the way .............

honestly, cant be buggered with it.................... my E 160 is a better all round heli.................
Last edited by kiwi_craig; Feb 16, 2021 at 10:53 PM.
Mar 19, 2021, 05:50 AM
Registered User
I’m changing the feathering spindle, and have got my blade grip bearings in a muddle. Does anybody have anything that shows the correct order and orientation to reassemble them?

Thanks.
Mar 22, 2021, 06:52 PM
Registered User

Blade grip bearings


Maybe I’m the only one left flying a 130s.?

Anyway I think I have the bearings back in in the right order, picture attached. I’ve reassembled the head with a new feathering spindle and i noticed, one blade grip rotates freely the other has a slight resistance when it rotates. Swapped them around and then the other blade grip had the resistance, so I’ve concluded it must be something to do with a difference in the rubber inserts in the centre head section. My question is which side has the correct resistance?

In the picture below the small washer on the screw that goes in the end of the feathering shaft is not shown.
Mar 22, 2021, 07:10 PM
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I think you'll find this very helpful. it is the same head. all the head parts are interchangeable with the 130S and the 150S
Replacing Blade 180 CFX head, blade grips and feathering shaft (10 min 16 sec)
Mar 22, 2021, 09:33 PM
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kiwi_craig's Avatar
I do still fly mine occasionally but had a servo die last time out on one, and a second one wnet nuts tail wag wise, so I'm down to one flier......... my E160 flies rings around them...............
Mar 22, 2021, 09:43 PM
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i think your order is backwards on the blade grip side? Doesn't the bearing go in first, then the other skinny bearing and parts?

I fly mine when I'm out. I've always enjoyed it and will probably for a while still. Yes, I think I had to replace one of the servos as it wore out over time. I tried cleaning it, but that didn't work.
Mar 23, 2021, 03:20 AM
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The bearing does go in first on the 230s, but in the 130s manual shows it going in last. The manual is slightly wrong as it shows the thrust bearing and the two associated washers and spacer going in from the head side, which is not possible due to the ridge that only leaves space for the wide bearing.

The video was interesting but, didn’t show the bearings. It did mention the rubber inserts - it called dampeners. Is the purpose of these to add a bit of friction to the rotation of the blade grips or to just hold the feathering shaft still or to allow a bit of sideways movement to balance out the blades?

I might be able to adjust the resistance by turning one of the dampeners around, but I’m still not sure which bade grip has the correct resistance.

My 130 if in a bit of a bad way, as I’ve crashed it a lot learning to fly inverted. My canopy post is a cocktail stick, landing gear held on with hot glue and the main gear sounds more like a motorbike. I will change the main frame and do it all up soon as I’m not crashing quite so often now.
Mar 23, 2021, 05:43 AM
Registered User
both sides should be silky smooth through their full range. no resistance. I'll pull mine apart after work and get a photo of the bearings.
Jul 08, 2021, 01:09 PM
Registered User
Why this heli is so short lived ? I bought this heli as if that day n today no more even on Ebay😭☹️☹️
Jul 08, 2021, 09:36 PM
Registered User
@congcon97,
Since the release of OMP M1,M2 and Eachine E180, blade helis sales have dropped dramatically I guess.

HH is too slow to the demanding market of DMD micro helis.
Last edited by ptern; Jul 08, 2021 at 09:37 PM. Reason: add more stuffs.
Jul 17, 2021, 10:08 AM
zadaw's Avatar
There is an upcoming Align DMD heli as well. Not to mention TALY as an innovation in those DD tail motor helis. Blade is going to have a really rough time if it doesn't catch up.
Jul 17, 2021, 12:05 PM
Registered User
the only complaint I have with the 130S is the expensive servos that also have what i would consider a fairly high fail rate. after some tuning, mine flies great. I was disappointed to see it discontinued so quickly... OFC I seem so have a hangar full of discontinued helis from HH / Blade.
Jul 27, 2021, 02:01 AM
Registered User
My 130s hs started dipping, suddenly loosing hight causing me to add collective, which then eventually make it climb, if I’m not carful it can get into an oscillation which gets bigger. It has caused several crashes and makes flips very messy to catch. Not sure if it’s a issue with the helicopter or some sort of wind turbulence. The helicopter has over 55h total flying time. Has anybody had anything similar or any ideas what’s going on with it, as it’s not much fun to fly now. Thanks..
Jul 27, 2021, 03:36 AM
Registered User
check you swash bearing for looseness, the links from the swash to the head, the servo "horns" and links. also nake sure the swash slides freely on the main shaft. I have experienced all of the above, one or more may be the issue, any combination will cause what you describe.


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