Skywalker EVE-2000 2240mm Wingspan FPV plane - full review / build / owners' thread - RC Groups
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Nov 09, 2016, 01:58 AM
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Skywalker EVE-2000 2240mm Wingspan FPV plane - full review / build / owners' thread

Hi guys, here is my review of the new Skywalker EVE-2000. I got this on pre-order from Banggood.

You will also be able to find all of the information on this model, as well as a detailed parts' list in my blog:

When I saw the the Skywalker EVE-2000 over at Banggood for pre-order I just new I had to get one. Lately twin tractor models have been all the hype and more and more companies are coming out with such models, but this one looked markedly different, and that might be due to the fact that Skywalker say they have loosely based the design of it on the character of Eve, from the animated movie Wall-E. I personally find the design of the plane quite interesting and the internal space of the fuselage is simply mind boggling. You can fit A LOT of gear in there... and it will carry it. The wings are pretty good, very stiff and attach quite securely to the fuselage. Assembly and disassembly does not require any tools, and is made in just three easy steps - detach one wing, detach the other, remove the spars... done!

All of that is made possible by the wing connectors, which make wiring very easy and clean. I have to say though... this is a plane for expert builders and even though it flies well once you set it up properly... it is also a plane for experienced pilots. I would not recommend it for beginners. But I will say this... it is VERY good!

eve 2000 (8 min 42 sec)

Skywalker EVE-2000 - trying for the mountain top (4 min 28 sec)

Skywalker EVE-2000 - Ailerons fail in flight!!! (9 min 50 sec)

Wing span: 2240mm
Length: 1270mm
Flying weight: 3000-4500 grams according to specs (around 4210 grams for the current configuration)
CG: about 80-85mm from LE


Nothing much to report on the state of the box upon arrival! The box was not packaged additionally in anything because actually inside the parts of the plane are packed in even more sparate boxes... so it was well protected. There were no damaged parts, and nothing was missing.

The only thing that was not absolutely pristine were a few wrinkles on one of the wings - one was on the side towards the fuselage, the other on the outer end of the wing. Since the plane was packaged really well in the box, I think those were done in the factory prior to packaging.


Where do I start... it will have to be with the size of the plane... and more precisely the internal space in the fuselage! It is absolutely enormous... I was actually stunned by how long and wide the fuselage is... and just think about the potential of how much gear can be mounted in there!

Ignore the bandaged finger... the cause for it was non rc related.

Just look at all that space...

And to get a good idea of just how big it is... I am not going to put my tablet in it... or my Shuriken 180! However, I am going to put in no less than two 6S 12A batteries side-by-side, just so you can get an idea of how massive that fuselage is.

They even fit lying down on the wide side. And there is still room on the sides!

Also, check out how much space there is above the batteries! I will be mounting the FC and GPS right in that spot above the batteries, that way they will be out of the way and I will be able to use the whole space at the bottom of the fuselage for additional batteries and/or gear.

And to get an idea of the rough size of the plane, here is a comparison of the wings of the Ranger EX and the EVE-2000. The EVE-2000 is about 10cm longer than the Ranger on each side.

And when it comes to the fuselage the EVE-2000 is noticeably longer as well, and I am thinking this plane will have improved YAW stability over the Ranger EX due to a longer body in relation to the wings compared to the Ranger. You may also notice the fuselage itself is MUCH longer and wider than the Ranger... meaning lots more internal space. It is also nice that the two openings in the fuselage are quite big and working on the inside is very easy that way.

One thing that I was on the fence about was the fact that EVERYTHING on this plane comes disassembled and unglued and you have to do it all. But thinking about it, and considering that this plane with that size is probably not going to be used just for park FPV flights... but rather to carry a lot of equipment... and possibly quite expensive, it is a good idea to allow the end user to assemble the plane themselves to ensure best assembly possible, because we all know how the Chinese assemble these planes in the factory, and later we have to re-do most of the work anyway!

With that in mind I have to say that this plane is NOT for beginners, will definitely not be suitable as a first build for anyone, as it does require a bit of experience assembling such models.

Having the parts unglued really helps wire the whole thing cleanly on the inside, so once completed the build would look very nice, rather than have to carve servo channels and tape them over, etc. You do have to keep in mind that you will need to think ahead and wire for future changes and upgrades, because once this part is glued, it would be next to impossible to wire something new through to the tail.

You may also notice that there aren't proper hinges on any of the control surfaces... on a smaller plane I would consider this as something that I don't like... but on this one I would prefer to be able to install the hinges myself, as tedious a task as that is, so I can make sure they are installed properly and are strong enough for this heavy bird.

The vertical and horizontal stabilizers are joined via two plastic adapters, glued to each piece, that fit together and lock in place to hold the tail as one piece. Looks neat and easy at a first glance, but only the actual assembly will tell if this is a good way of doing it.

You will also notice that the carbon rods have not been glued in as well. I gues that is a good thing because chinese tend to use some weird glue that comes undone quite easily! I actually glued these using epoxy and they are now in there for good!

The wings are almost the same as the vertical stabilizer, they are made of two parts that need to be glued together once you install all of the electronics in there... and their carbons are not glued in as well! The area that needs to be glued is quite large, so there should be enough adhesion to be sure that the wing will not come apart in flight.

This makes the installation of the electronics really easy but also means that, like with the tail, you have to really think hard about what you may want to do in the future, because once you glue the two pieces together... you will have to cut into the wing later on to do any changes.

I love the fact that they actually thought about the fact that this will be a heavy bird and there will probably be more stress on the control surfaces, so they included plywood bases for the control horns, and actually made nice cutouts in the foam for them, so gluing is pretty easy and really makes that part last.

There are also cutouts for flap servos, although those cutouts are shallower, so preferrably you will need low profile servos for this. I have ordered some and will install them when they arrive. But here is that thinking ahead comment coming into play! There isn't a wire provided for them on the wing connectors... so I will have to solder one up myself in order to easily power them later on when I add them in.

Another nice thing to note is that the motor housing are made of REALY hard and tough plastic, so there is not a worry in my mind that this thing could break in flight purely because of motor thrust. Its solid as a rock!

The nacelles look very fine and the fit is very nice!

The canopy is also pretty massive and feels really tough, it will surely be able to hold a lot of gear, including a 3-axis gimbal without much effort! Its nice that it comes with a hole for wiring FPV gear through.

There is also a plastic rear hatch, it would also serve to hold some gear on it because it is actually the highest part of the fuselage when installed in place. It prodives access to the rear of the fuselage allowing you to easily get to every part of it and install and move gear around.

There is also an array of plywood plates provided for this build. They are nicely cut and adequately stiff! A few even come with blind nuts installed into them, which is nice, but keep in mind you may need to secure them a bit better, as I found out later into the build.

This is supposed to be the landing gear plate... but I am pretty sure I will not be using it as I am pretty tired of landing gears now, having flown the Ranger for so long... really looking for some large belly landing plane.

At first I wasn't sure what this piece was for as the manual also never mentions where it goes, but I found later on. Its funny how they actually cut it out of one of the main plates that go into the plane rather than from a separate piece. It could be that that opening is supposed to also serve as a camera opening when you remove the foam, so you can do some mapping with a down facing camera inside the fuselage near the CG point.

This piece is supposed to hold the tail. The plywood plate could have been a tad stiffer... and I am glad this became a much more solid part once it was glued inside the plane.

Continues in next post...
Last edited by Arxangel; Mar 29, 2017 at 03:00 PM.
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... continued from previous post

There are also three tubes with the plane, the largest one is the tail boom, which also has a cutout for the tail wiring to go through. There are also slots that fit the plastic adapter for the tail, which is used to center the carbon boom in the vertical stabilizer during gluing.

The other two tubes are the spars, the bigger one goes to the front, the smaller one is for the rear of the wing. They are quite stiff... so I am almost certain they are carbon.

Moving on to the smaller parts, the wing joiners are a nice and convenient extra on this plane that would greatly speed up and ease up assembly, especially when you consider there are now ESCs and possibly up to 2 servos in each wing. The connectors fit together well and provide a convenient way to quickly connect the wings to the fuselage. They also provide a few spare pins for some additional gear that you might want to mount on the wings - Vtx, radio Rx, etc.

Two 3-blade props are also included in the kit! They look pretty solid but I am not going to be using them at this time, because the motors I will be using already have props mounted on them and I know their precise specs. At some point down the line I may try these... but I feel they will be too heavy for my motors.

Included are also the control horns, all the cables you will need in a standard build, some self-adhesive velcro strips, two tubes of glue (which are not enough to assemble the whole plane, but its nice of them to include it), push rods, push rod stoppers, screws for mounting the motors, and the lock mechanisms for the canopy and the rear hatch. There is also a harness to provide power to both wings from a single battery.


First of all... the plane came without a manual. True, it can be downloaded from the product listing on the Banggood website... but still! Also, there are some differences between what is listed in the manual and what I received... and also I have to say the manual is almost worthless... it does not show a very detailed account of the assembly process and the language is not very good also!

I also have to mention here that the included glue will not be enough to put the plane together fully, so you might want to get some additional glue, or just use some other glue altogether just so the whole plane be glued with one type of glue. For this build I will be using some CA for the hinges, some epoxy for the carbon reinforcements, and Moment Fix Classic for the rest of the glue on the model. I only used the provided glue to fill some gaps because it dries slower and is more liquid than the Moment Fix Classic. Also... I decided to go with the Moment Fix Classic because my grandfather used it to glue shut a crack in this washing machine rubber seal... and after weeks of use it is still holding, so I though that this must be some strong glue!

Next on my list is the tail boom part that slides on the tail at the side of the vertical stabilizer and is glued inside it to center the boom properly. It is not a perfect fit in its allocated spot, so I had to push it in hard to make it fit.

Later in the build I had issues with the blind nuts for the bracket that holds the tail boom in place in the fuselage! In hindsight I should have thought to reinforce them and mount them better to the plywood... but that is my own mistake... BUT since the plane came totally unassembled... they should have left that off as well, and I would have done it properly.

Another thing that I noticed was that the servo nests on the plane, especially those on the rudder and the elevator, are noticeably smaller than a standard 9 gram servo! I find that weird since you would thing they would make a larger hole to mount a larger servo on a plane designed to be that heavy! My Corona servos are the size of a 9 gram servo, only a bit heavier due to the metal gears, and they could not fit in the nests without me cutting away some material to make room.

Another thing that was a major pain in the A** was the soldering! I removed the heat shrink on the wing connectors to add the wires for the flap servos and I was appalled by the quality of the soldering... or the lack of quality actually! It took me 2 hours to resolder all the connections... and at that point it would have been much easier if they hadn't soldered anything... they didn't assemble any other part of the plane... so WHY THIS!?

And last, but certainly not least, I found it very weird that all control surfaces got plywood bases for the control horns, even the ailerons, which do not get quite as much stress as the elevator, but for the elevator there was just the control horn without any additional support for it in the foam! I know from experience that this is a bad idea as that foam gets squashed and softened from that kind of pressure very quickly!


So the good is definitely more than the bad, and the bad is not really anything critical but rather just annoying and tedious tasks that need to be completed, but its easy to do and in the long run it would be better to do them anyway!

Keep in mind, however, that the plane is not for beginners, especially the building part. It does require some building experience and also some flying and setup experience to get it dialed in properly.

I am very happy with how the EVE-2000 turned out and also how it flies and handles in the air. You can definitely tell its a larger and heavier plane just by seeing it in flight, but its also gracious in the air and definitely worth the effort to put it together and sort everything out. The large space in the fuselage can take a lot of batteries or a battery and lots of other gear, depending on what you want to use it for. It will certainly carry more than the 12A 6S battery that I flew it with for the maiden, so you should be able to even fit a mirror-less DSLR in there for mapping purposes.

Once trims and CG is properly sorted the plane can easily and efficiency maintain speeds around 50-60km/h, and landings are also not a big issue, just cut the throttle and if need be nose it in a little till close to the ground, then pull slightly on the elevator to kill a little speed and it will ease into the landing without much fuss!

Overall I really like this plane... actually I think I love it, and I am definitely going to make it my main cloud chaser now, and will probably add a gimballed camera to the front for some nice video shots of those clouds, once I reach them!


Lets get on with the build then! I decided to start with the tail, so first I glued in the carbon spar in the horizontal stabilizer. I used epoxy for this as it is somewhat flexible, but also adds a good deal of stiffness to the spar making the whole horizontal stabilizer stiffer.

I must warn you about the horizontal stabilizer though, things must be done in a certain way during the assembly, otherwise it would make installing the servo very difficult afterwards. So first you must glue in the carbon rod, and then install the servo, and actually last you need to glue on the plastic adapter plate that joins the two stabilizers together. If you glue the plate first you would have a very hard time routing the servo cable afterwards!

So, on with the servo install. After making the necessary cuts in the foam to allow the servo to fit tightly I used some double-sided tape to mount it. Before than though I rubbed both the servo and the foam where it would be mounted with alcohol to get rid of any dirt and other chemicals that may prevent the tape from holding strongly!

I then taped the servo over with some fiber tape just in case, and routed the wire to where it needed to go.

Next I glued on the plastic adapter plate using Moment Fix Classic glue.

Don't forget to put some weight on top of it while the glue is drying to achieve maximum adhesion. Also don't use too much of the Moment Fix glue (if you are the same as me) as it softens the foam while drying and could warp things.

After that was done I moved on to installing hinges on the elevator, because a foam hinge on a 4kg+ model is never a good idea... as I found out years ago with my Ranger! I've been using CA hinges for a long time now and am really happy with how they work! They provide a nice and strong hinge, and are quite flexible.

Next it was time to install the control horn on the elevator. Since there wasn't a plywood plate provided for it to additional strength I decided to use the one meant for the rudder.

I cut out a nest for it in the foam, so it would fit flush with the control surface and not be sticking over it.

Here I also used epoxy to glue that part. The 5 min one sets really quickly and allows me to continue working on the plane without having to wait a whole lot of time for it to dry.

And last I installed the push rod. The linkage stopped goes easily into the control horn and then just adjust the control surface, tighten down the push rod and cut away the excess. That pretty much completed the horizontal stabilizer.

Next I turned my attention to the vertical stabilizer. First I cut some foam out from the servo hole to make my servo fit.

I then proceeded to install hinges on the rudder.

Next I soldered the servo wires directly to the servo extension provided with the plane. The reason for this was due to the fact that the servo extension connector simply did not fit through the opening in the carbon tail boom meant for the wiring once the servo was connected to it. When I also added the servo extension lock, there was even a smaller chance of that happening so I soldered the two together for best results.

So, with all the wiring routed this is what it looks like on the inside. I have not done the same for the elevator servo because those connectors will not reach the opening in the tube, so there is no problem with fitting them in there. The twisted wire is for my radio receiver, which I've decided to mount on the horizontal stabilizer, thus putting it at the highest point on the plane for optimal radio signal during any plane orientation. This is what I mean by thinking ahead when you are building this. That wire will be impossible to wire through the tail once the vertical stabilizer is glued together. Later on I might move that receiver away from there and put a video camera in its place, and I will already have the wiring for it.

Next I put in the servo and added some glue to where it contacts the foam. That way it will stay put while I am gluing the two halves together and would allow for better adhesion to the other part of the vertical stabilizer.

And last before gluing together I installed the control horn. Since I used the plywood base for the elevator, I had to print one out for the rudder.

So, making sure to use enough glue, but not too much, and to spread it around as evenly as I can it was time to put the two halves together. Don't forget to put in the carbon boom with its centering adapter. I then sandwiched the vertical stabilizer between some batteries while it was drying just to make sure both halves are well pressed in into each other and there will be no gaps. This is needed because the Moment Fix Classic glue really shrinks down when it dries. I also used packaging tape around some of the edges to press them together.

While the vertical stabilizer was drying I decided to tackle the motor problem before I move on to the wings. Since I was told there is an issue with my order and they can only send me the KIT version... I did not get any electronics with this plane, so I had to find a way to mount the only motors I had capable of pulling this beast to the motor mounts.

Luckily they weren't too wide and mounting them proved to be easier than I thought. I printed out nice, thick motor mounts and inserted the screws meant to secure the motor to the wing before I mounted the motor.

It worked out pretty great... and the maiden flight proved they are strong enough for the job.

Fits really nice in the motor nacelle, and there is still enough room on the side for cooling for the ESC to go through.

Now that the motors were sorted I turned my attention to the ESCs. When I found out that the KIT version will be shipped to me rather than the PNP, I thought to at least get some ESCs, because I was a little short on 40A 6S capable ESC. So I decided to get the HTIRC 40A 2-6S ESC... and it looked great at the time.

So... the first thing I did was to expose the heat sink to allow for better cooling, since these will be glued inside the wing.

Continues in next post...
Last edited by Arxangel; Nov 18, 2016 at 08:32 AM.
Nov 09, 2016, 01:59 AM
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... continued from previous post

Next I soldered 3.5mm bullet connectors. I really like the ones without the spring but that look like a whole piece of metal has been split in 4 pieces. Those always fit nice and are more secure than the ones with the spring.

However... be wary of those ESCs! If you buy them, get the programming card as well, I didn't and now they are worthless after trying to program them via stick commands. Long story short, they had a timing issue with the motors, so I had to reprogram the timing setting... followed the manual to the letter, all went fine at a first glance, but when I restarted the system and tried again... they didn't even make a beep! So get the program card if you buy them!

My only chance to save them is to find if it is possible to flash them with SimonK or BLHeli firmware, so if anyone knows what would be compatible with those, I am open to suggestions.

Next I went on to re-do all of the crappy soldering on the wing connectors.

Two hours later I was done with this tedious task! It would have been easier if they left those wires unsoldered.

By the time I was done with all the soldering the vertical stabilizer had already dried enough for me to be able to install the push rod.

Now that the vertical stabilizer had dried I had 4 additional batteries to use as weights, so I went on to glue the side plywood plates to the fuselage halves. It took a lot of batteries and a few fasteners to keep those plywood plates pressed agains the foam... for some reason they were not perfectly straight.

While these parts were drying I went on to install the electronics in the wings. Glued the motor mounts first, the mounted the ESCs with velcro and optimized the wiring a little. I even added a set of cables to the connector for a flap servo. I had to use short servo extensions for the aileron servo, as the wires were a bit short.

After I was happy with the wiring, I used fibre tape to hold the wires in place during the gluing so they don't move around and get caught up between the glue locations.And then of course I used a generous amout of glue and put both wings together, and left them to dry for a little over a day to make sure the glue has dried well.

Next I decided to assemble the tail. I connected the servo wire and pulled it in the vertical stabilizer.

And then I pulled the radio Rx wires through the horizontal stabilizer and out from the top.

So now that there were no wrinkled wires I was ready to put the two stabilizers together.

So basically you have to put the horizontal on top of the vertical, push down and the back for the two adapter plates to snap together. Problem is that wasn't as easy as it looked... and in the process of pushing them together I actually broke the little tumbs that hold the two plates together! At that point I was actually glad that happened, because it releaved a potential weak spot, which I had a chance to fix before the first flight even.

So, I poured some glue on the plates and pressed them together. In addition I also dug out two openings on top of the horizontal stabilizer to the inside of the adapter plate, and put two screws through both plates to hold them together in addition to the glue. Once the glue dried that whole assembly felt so solid, that I decided not to put additional carbons there and see how it goes during the maiden. I also poured some glue inside those holes just for a good measure.

With the tail fully assembled I was ready to deal with the fuselage. I used the Moment Fix Classic glue to put the two halves together, and put some packaging tape in a few places to hold it all together. I also glued on the canopy and rear hatch locks.

For the most part the two halves fit together well... there is only some minor misalignment at some of the openings, like the ones you can see at the bottom of the photo below. Doesn't affect the overall fit of the two halves though.

I guess I should have secured this part better while it was drying. I later saw it has slid a bit low while drying... but since the same has happened on the matching part on the canopy, it still locks in place perfectly.

I am really curious what kind of camera I would be able to fit through that hole. The fuselage is quite thick there so it will either have to be a Mobius with a lens extension cable, or a pilot camera with a very long lens... or I will have to dig pretty deep to fit a RunCam/Mobius without having any foam in view.

Next I glued in the plate the tail boom attaches to! I was worried this would be a weak spot, but once the glue dried it felt solid as a rock, so I didn't do any additional reinforcing... although I would have appreaciated if they had made if out of thicker and possibly stiffer plywood.

Next was the landing gear plate, which according to the manual is supposed to go on the square shaped bit on the bottom of the plane! Having flown the Ranger for a long time I think I've had enough of planes with a landing gear, so I knew I will never be putting one on this plane.

Instead I found out that this plate fits perfectly in the square slot on the bottom of the inside of the fuselage, so I glued it on there, and it will now serve as a further support for the large plywood plate that will be glued there and will provide some additional rigidity to the fuselage... not that it needs it! Even better it will not hang from the bottom of the plane catching on dirt and roots while landing in a grass field, and potentially causing more harm to the plane.

Next I glued on the main bottom plywood plate and while it was drying I decided to install the bracket that would hold the tail boom in place. I guess some glue had found its way into the thread of the blind nut, because when I tried to tighten down one of the bolts it got stuck and when I pushed to remove it the whole blind nut disengaged from the plywood and spun freely under it!

At this point I knew I would have think of something because I would not be able to tighten down the tail boom that way, and there was no way I can get to the blind nut. So I got my Dremel tool and cut the bolt at the plywood.

Now that this was done I had to come with a way to secure that side of the bracket. A few minutes in SolidWorks and an hour later I had the perfect adapter that would press on that side of the bracket and hold it tightly down, just as well as the original setup... if not better. It is really solid now and actually survived the maiden flights with flying colours.

So now that this crisis was handled I glued on the wing mounts that go on the fuselage. I had to do some filing on them to make the spars fit nicely in without rubbing.

At this point the wings had already dried (yes, this build did span over a few days) so it was time to finish them. That involved installing the aileron servo and push rod, and securing the flap servo wire while I wait for those low profile servos to arrive.

Again I rubbed down the servo and the mounting area with alcohol to clean it well and then used double sided tape to mount the servos in place. The installed the push rods, adjusted the control surfaces to be flush with the wing and cut the excess push rod.

Used some fiber tape to secure the flap servo wire.

Overall the wings turned out pretty well at around 520 grams each. The motors feel quite solid in there and the wing adapters that plug into the plane are glued on solid as a rock! Actually the wings are one of the places I used the supplied glue to fill the gaps when I put the two pieces together. It feels very strong now.

Also don't forget to mark the CG location on the wings for easiler adjustment later on. Manual recommends 80-85mm from LE, and that is about correct from my experience during the maiden.

So now that the wings were completed I turned my attention back to the fuselage. There was one last piece to be glued on and that was the weird looking plywood piece that is actually cut off from the main bottom plywood plate in the fuselage. It actually goes at the back of the fuselage and you insert the carbon tail boom through it into the fuselage. It really makes the whole tail section feel so much more rigid and stiff once it is glued on.

So now that ALL of the gluing and assembling had been done, it was time to turn my attention towards wiring this thing, and in particular into fitting this mess of wires that I took out of the Ranger X2 into the EVE-2000.

First I installed the Pixhawk upside down at the top of the fuselage on the inside, in the area just back of the canopy. Next to it I installed the GPS module. This will keep the whole space at the bottom of the fuselage free for batteries and other gear.

Continues in next post...
Last edited by Arxangel; Nov 18, 2016 at 08:33 AM.
Nov 09, 2016, 02:00 AM
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... continued from previous post

Next as I was getting ready to start connecting wires, I decided to tape down the wires coming out of the tail boom as low as possible so that they would be as far away from the screw that is used to tighten down the tail boom in place, as it is actually portruding quite low from the top and could potentially damage the wires.

Next I devised a convenient way to power all of the servos on the plane without using additiona UBECs. Since all the ground and 5v wires on the wing connectors are soldered into one place, that means that I can actually use each ECS's BEC to power the corresponding wing's aileron servo, and also power one of the tail servos. That meant that I was going to have to make some custom cables.

So what this cable does is, it is transferring power from one of the wings, to one of the servos on the tail, so actually I am powering the wing servos and one of the tail servos with the ESCs BEC on that respective wing. The ESC on the other wing will power its servos and the remaining servo on the tail. Normally I never do that... I would usually install an external SBEC for this, but after the HTIRC ESCs crapped out during the programming and I replaced them with my super reliable HobbyWing Platinum 40A ESCs, I thought I might as well use their BECs to power the servos. Unlike other ESCs, the HobbyWings do NOT get hot when the ESC's BEC is connected and they have proven to be quite reliable over the years.

Of course only the signal cables from both servos will get to the Pixhawk because the whole system is powered from only 1 battery, so they already have a common ground.

Next I made the same cable, but with slightly longer wires, for the other wing and the other tail servo.

At this point the flap servo wires will remain unplugged and tucked away on both sides of the fuselage until I get those servos in.

So... with a lot of wiring going on the walls of the fuselage, the main compartment remains free of any obstruction and looks very clean.

Next I installed the power module and tucked it away under the overhanging tail boom plate.

I am not going to use the provided power harness from Skywalker because of its shoddy soldering and also because that power module came from the Ranger X2 twin tractor prototype and was already soldered to power two ESCs.

Next it was time for all of the othe electronics to go in. I chose to mount them on the right side of the fuselage, but there is so much real state in this one it really doesn't matter where you put them!

So here is the TeleFly Pro OSD for the antenna tracker, a 3 channel video switch for the cameras, the MinimOSD, and a 5v BEC to power all of the video system. On this plane i am powering the video system from a separate 3S 2500mAh Tx battery.

For now I will install two cameras. One RunCam will point forward, and a second RunCam will point back so I can see the tail of the plane! My thought was that even if the tail assembly turns out not to be strong enough and breaks in flight, at least I will have it on camera.

For the time being I mounted the telemetry on the side of the fuselage, but will probably move it away from there at some point and into the fuselage for a cleaner installation.

And again... this part turned out quite well and the tail feels very solid. I have not glued the screws in so I can make adjustments if I need to. Also you can see the JST connector sticking out of the power module wires. It is there just in case I ever need to connect something additionally, like an external SBEC for the servos.

The radio receiver is at the most optimal point on the plane and looks right at home there. However, I am thinking that for the Rlink I don't really need it to be that high up because I am certainly not going to push its limit and try to go 70km.... so at some point I might move it to the fuselage and since I have the cable there, I can install a third camera there looking at the plane, since I already have the wiring it would be quite easy.

Its starting to look pretty good.

I mounted the Pixhawk zoomer on the inside of the fuselage at the back away from the compass.

The safety switch went on next to the Pixhawk at the front, but just out of sight.

A major part of the similarities of the fuselage to the EVE character from the movie WALL-E is the black painted plywood plate that needs to be glued on top of the canopy. However I decided not to glue it on at this point because actually the self-adhesive velcro I will use to mount the camera adheres better to the foam than to the plywood.

Now its time to check how the spars fit in. In order to have equal length of spar on both sides of the fuselage, you need to insert the spar so that on either side it is exactly 48.4cm. That would give you an equal amount of spars in each wing.

Once the spars are in the wings are not as easy to slide on... but once you attach them properly there is no way they are coming apart in flight! The friction of the spars in the wings, especially if some of the glue has leaked in the spar channel in the wing, really helps keep the wing securely attached to the plane, even though it makes assembly and disassembly just a tad bit tedious, its better this way!

Once you really push those wings in good, the fit on the connectors and adapters is quite good.

So now I was almost done. I now had to find a spot for the video Tx. Since its wires weren't very long and I didn't feel like extending them too much, I decided to mount it on top of the rear hatch, as it is the highest point on the fuselage. Problem was it is round... wait... its not a problem... 20 mins with the 3D printer and I was done!

Once the Vtx was mounted it was time to also install the cameras. The one facing the back will have to now be mounted at an angle on the side of the Vtx... but it will do for now.

This is about where the battery should be for the CG to be good and close to neutral, will see how it does in flight.

And now finally the plane is ready for flight. But this thing is HUGE! I can barely put it in my living room. I guess I will have to take some more photos once I am at the field.

Continues in next post...
Last edited by Arxangel; Nov 18, 2016 at 08:35 AM.
Nov 09, 2016, 02:01 AM
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... continued from previous post

So, I finally made it out to the flying field but as it turned out it was only to do the photos... because this is when the ESCs crapped out after programming, so I had to go back home and replace them, and go back to the field the next day!

I was very disturbed that I had to cut into the wings to replace the ESCs, but when I thought about it, the places where I had to cut were not exactly load bearing for the wing, so I went on with it.

I had to cut an additional opening to the side towards the wiring channel to be able to plug the new ESCs in because the cables coming from the connectors were just a tad too short to get a good grip on them.

Since I also shortened the ESC signal lead to make the wiring cleaner I had to cut into the wiring channel near the connectors to be able to connect the new ESCs.

It was a quick mod, after that I taped everything back together and was ready to finally go flying, as the tests showed that the HobbyWing Platinum ESCs did not have timing issues with my motors. I also fiber taped the bottom of the plane just for some added protection during those belly landings.

So now... here is this beast in all of its pre-maiden glory!

Last edited by Arxangel; Nov 18, 2016 at 08:36 AM.
Nov 09, 2016, 02:02 AM
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Nov 09, 2016, 08:34 AM
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P.I.Engineer's Avatar
how does the tail boom attach to the frame? is it that single orange half loop of plastic?
Nov 09, 2016, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by P.I.Engineer
how does the tail boom attach to the frame? is it that single orange half loop of plastic?
Yup... I am yet to get to that point, but it does appear that is it. I hope it is strong enough!
Nov 10, 2016, 01:24 PM
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Check out Post 2 for an update.
Nov 10, 2016, 06:34 PM
"That is why you fail"
KenOath's Avatar
Thanks for the heads up on the shoddy soldering work from the factory.
My black Eve still has not been shipped.. I may end up canceling.. I'm torn between the Eve and the new X UAV Clouds.
Waiting on your's and other flight reviews to help me decide.
Nov 10, 2016, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by KenOath
Thanks for the heads up on the shoddy soldering work from the factory.
My black Eve still has not been shipped.. I may end up canceling.. I'm torn between the Eve and the new X UAV Clouds.
Waiting on your's and other flight reviews to help me decide.
As far as I know I am getting a Cloud as soon as it is released... but not sure when this is happening... I reckon it will be at least a month... possibly more.

Meanwhile... I am hoping to have this beast maidened by the end of the coming weekend... weather and assembly permitting of crouse!
Nov 11, 2016, 03:51 AM
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Regarding to the motor fixing. I just check, the motor holder cross that came with the SunnySky 2814 and it is a perfect fit.
Nov 11, 2016, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by eosbandi
Regarding to the motor fixing. I just check, the motor holder cross that came with the SunnySky 2814 and it is a perfect fit.
Good to know!

Sadly I don't have these motors... so I had to work around that!
Nov 11, 2016, 05:51 AM
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evensis's Avatar
Originally Posted by Arxangel
A quick update!

Since I didn't receive any electronics with my model I had to adapt my motors to the Skywalker motor mounts... a few minutes in SolidWorks and an hour on the printer and the deed was done!

Also... a word of WARNING!

Since I am going to use flaps I removed the heat shrink on the GND wire to solder an additional ground for the flap servo... and I discovered a evry dodgy looking soldering job! After removing the heat shrink on EVERY soldered bit that came with the plane... I discovered A LOT to be desired, so I had to re-solder every piece of wire... but at least now I hope I know the soldering job I did... and I trust it more than the one that came from the factory!

I also devised a convenient scheme to power the servos... but more on that later when the whole review is ready... but PLEASE be careful with the original soldering job... honestly it would have been easier if they hand't soldered anything... the plane came completely unassembled anyway!
Eek - now i'm regretting not looking, i've just completed one wing. Might have to just seperate the glue and resolder those joints.

Seconded on the X2814 SunnySkys, fit like a glove.
Nov 11, 2016, 06:35 AM
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I'm trying to figure out how to disconnect the wings easily... it seem that if you press the connecting studs (I'm not sure this is the right name for them) from the plane side, they pop out easily, but if you just pull them they hold very strong.
So I think to make holes to access the studs from the fuselage and create a small wooden tool to press them from inside....