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Jan 24, 2017, 08:06 PM
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cn0rris's Avatar
Just clarifying:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Watho 46
With what I have read so far they are using the spring switch on the right hand top side to launch there DLG's
I read that to mean "right-hand launchers keep the spring switch on the right", which is opposite from what most people do. Spring switch on the left allows right-handers to pull the switch while holding the radio during the throw. Lefties put the spring on the right.

And yes, Taranis is pretty awesome about how they let you swap around switches…
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Jan 24, 2017, 10:48 PM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar
Do I have to re-calibrate after I install the 6 position rotary switch? Right now it's working like a 2 position switch.
Jan 24, 2017, 11:27 PM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar
I know.... another beginner question. I downloaded the firmware. I installed the latest model. Right now the rudder and elevator servos are only moving from center in one direction. Up elevator moves the servo. Down doesn't move the servo at all. Left rudder works and right doesn't.
Jan 25, 2017, 06:18 AM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz
Do I have to re-calibrate after I install the 6 position rotary switch? Right now it's working like a 2 position switch.
Yes
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Jan 25, 2017, 06:19 AM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz
I know.... another beginner question. I downloaded the firmware. I installed the latest model. Right now the rudder and elevator servos are only moving from center in one direction. Up elevator moves the servo. Down doesn't move the servo at all. Left rudder works and right doesn't.
What version?
Latest blog entry: AIrcraft I've built.
Jan 25, 2017, 09:57 AM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Thread OP
Collected a post from a standalone thread regarding how to use the 6 position pot for timer purposes:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimn8uay
Directions or instructions for installing and programming? I'm on OpenTX 2.1
Swap the switch out, depending on which one you have to solder. The new ones have plugs.
Go into the transmitter setup , not model setup, and change the configuration for the SX (S1 or S2 depending on which one you swapped) to "multipos switch" .
The go to the calibration screen. Turn the 6 pos switch all the way clockwise (important), go through the calibration where you center and then
move things to the endpoints, at the end slowly move the 6 position switch counter clockwise, one click at a time ONCE. Then hit enter.
S2 will now produce values of approximately 100,60,20,-20,-60 and -100. It is approximate so you might get 59, or -19 so when you test for it
in a logical switch you have to use the approximate compare, (a~x) instead of exact (a=x).

I use it by having an edge switch the detects the pull of the launch switch (L25, SF down, EDGE 0:<<), call this L25. This also stops the timers. (in the model setup, setup up timer 1 to an initial value of 10:00, enabled with SF^, with minute countdown.)
Then there are 6 logical switches (approximately) comparing S2 to each of the 6 values above. Each switch is logically ANDed with L25.
There is a special function for each of the logical switches that sets one of the timers to one of 6 times, mine are 1,2,3,3:20,4 and 5 minutes.
Result is that when pulling the launch switch the timer is set to one of the 6 times and the timer is stopped. When the launch switch is release the timer starts counting down for the selected flight time.
One way to do it, there are others, of course.
Latest blog entry: AIrcraft I've built.
Jan 25, 2017, 12:47 PM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar
What battery are you guys using in your Taranis? I'd like to use a lipo if possible.
Jan 25, 2017, 12:59 PM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz
What battery are you guys using in your Taranis? I'd like to use a lipo if possible.
The 2200 it comes with. Keep in mind that the charger is IN the taranis, the wall cube thing is just a 12v supply, not a charger.
So if you use another battery chemistry you will have to remove the battery to charge.
I have two 2200's, and swap them out. Usually don't have to charge on contest weekend.
Note that with the stock setup, you can charge from any 12v source (like a 3S lipo, or a car battery). Just put a connector in line with the wall wart adapter.
Latest blog entry: AIrcraft I've built.
Jan 25, 2017, 02:13 PM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar
I didn't get a wall wart with mine. I wired in a JST connector and charge it with my PowerLab 8. I assumed people were using some other battery because my radio keeps telling me the battery is low and I figured it was the TX. Maybe I should listen a little closer to what it's saying. It could be the 1S RX battery that's low? lol...
Jan 25, 2017, 02:15 PM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz
I didn't get a wall wart with mine. I wired in a JST connector and charge it with my PowerLab 8. I assumed people were using some other battery because my radio keeps telling me the battery is low and I figured it was the TX. Maybe I should listen a little closer to what it's saying. It could be the 1S RX battery that's low? lol...
You did not receive a charger and battery with your Taranis?
Latest blog entry: AIrcraft I've built.
Jan 25, 2017, 02:24 PM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar
Nope... The battery was in the TX. The TX was in the aluminum case but with nothing other than a couple pieces of paper that amount to a very rudimentary manual.
Last edited by Mr. Wiz; Jan 25, 2017 at 02:47 PM.
Jan 25, 2017, 02:55 PM
JimN8UAY
Jimn8uay's Avatar
Thanks, Mickey, that's the stuff I was looking for. My new rotary switches have plugs soldered on but I don't see where I can just swap them out, it looks like I'll have to cut and solder...no big deal.

Jim
PS...Falkes still lost? No worries here
Jan 25, 2017, 03:03 PM
Adam
xStatiCa's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz
What battery are you guys using in your Taranis? I'd like to use a lipo if possible.
I still use the 700mah NiMh battery that my older model came with. They have since upgraded the battery by default to something bigger. I go all day at a contest with plenty of battery leftover. I have never drained it in a day yet. I like that the weight is kept down by sticking with the lower capacity battery. Some day I will probably upgrade to a bigger NiMh battery but for me I really don't see a need for my use.
Jan 25, 2017, 03:14 PM
JimN8UAY
Jimn8uay's Avatar
I have 3 of the replacement 2000 mah NiMhs sold by Aloft and I have to monitor them because they just don't hold a long charge. I'm sure I'm getting a full charge on them using an external charger, but I have to usually swap one out during a flying session. I must have something causing excessive current draw, maybe it was the upgraded speaker. I have a spare tranny that I haven't used much so I should probably test a pack on that one before I judge the value of the 2000 packs.
I just upgraded the switch jack so I can charge these packs in the radio if I want. SO far they charge well using the standard wall wart and the built in charge circuit.
I was considering a 3 cell LiFe replacement. I've used those on my JR radios and those stay charged forever. Just have to monitor them by time in use since they drop off quickly, but certainly run longer than any NiMh I've used...
Now for the 6 position switch...

Jim
Jan 25, 2017, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn0rris
Just clarifying:



I read that to mean "right-hand launchers keep the spring switch on the right", which is opposite from what most people do. Spring switch on the left allows right-handers to pull the switch while holding the radio during the throw. Lefties put the spring on the right.

And yes, Taranis is pretty awesome about how they let you swap around switches…
Morning guys
Yes cnOrris you correct not sure what I was thinking when I wrote but yes Spring switch should be on the left for a right hand throw )

Sorry for the confusion

Watho


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