USS Concord (CL-10), 1/96 Omaha-class cruiser - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Dec 18, 2016, 09:50 PM
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mariner02's Avatar
Work continues on the hull. Lots and lots of details to contend with at this stage.

A total of 202 portholes are present in the hull alone, and it has been a little tedious marking and fitting all of them. They line up fairly well though and add a lot to the model.

Plating is ongoing; not done yet but the major joints are represented. The armor belt amidships is a conspicuous feature of this class, so not replicating it would be quite noticeable later. This was done by applying a thin overlay of basswood sheet onto the hull, sealed with resin. I also cut the holes for the lower set of torpedo tubes, which are located just above the armor belt. These lasted only a short time on these ships- they were too close to the water and ineffective in heavy seas.

I decided now would be a good time to work on the stuffing tubes, and those went in easily thanks to the pre-drilled frames. Of course I couldn't resist a trial fit of the shafts and props, and those look pretty good. I should note that only the inboard shafts will be powered on this build, and as a result those have received pricier ball-bearing tubes. The outboard shafts will simply freewheel, though they still have complete tube assemblies (albeit with bronze bushings) and could be powered later if desired.

I probably need to start thinking about the rudder soon.
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Dec 19, 2016, 08:46 AM
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mmalmsten's Avatar
Looks fantastic. Curious to know how you did plate joints.

Mike
Dec 19, 2016, 10:45 AM
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mariner02's Avatar
Little different technique for the "plating" this time around. Since the joints follow the same sheer line as the deck edge, I used a drafting compass to transfer the lines in pencil down the hull, with the top leg of the compass running along the deck edge. Once that was done, thin strips of Evergreen styrene were applied on top of the marks with CA. I still need to add some butt straps and vertical joints, but these will be done in the same manner.
This yields a realistic look without all the hassle of litho plates or the like, and should last the life of the model.
Jan 08, 2017, 03:57 PM
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The hull is getting very close to completion- pretty much everything is done except for the rudder. The shafts and struts were installed this week, as well as the bilge keels and the remainder of the plating. Paint is finished too.

Before work starts topside, the motors, battery, and other electronics need to be installed- so those are up next.
Jan 08, 2017, 04:29 PM
Po' boys does w/ Po'boys ways
haxawsnavy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Corvette
Hi Mariner02 and TGHSmith,
I live in Charleston, SC and would like to find a group of scale boaters to run with. Do either of you gentleman know of a group near Charleston?
Thanks,
Dick
Hi 42, I know this is late in coming but I can check with some of MY mate's there n see what they got in the area if you like n if you haven't had an answer yet. Tim aka Cap'n Hax
Jan 15, 2017, 03:30 PM
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mariner02's Avatar
We can officially drive and steer. Rudder and linkage went together better than expected, and the motors fit right in place and left room to spare for the outboard shafts. I had two nice 6v Dumas motors sitting around for years looking for a home, and this seemed like a perfect application. I figured I might as well use the old dogbones as well, and I forgot how good those really do work. Gave them a quick run and everything is smooth and quiet.

There is a ton of room in this hull, so I'm going to wait for test tank time to locate the batteries and other goodies. Now it's time to start working on the deck beams so we can start moving up.
Jan 22, 2017, 07:09 PM
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Work continues on the main and upper decks. The design of this cruiser does not afford the opportunity to remove a deckhouse for access to the internals, so almost the entire upper deck is made to be removable, save for the foredeck which is fixed in place. The small section of the main deck aft is fixed in place and sealed, which is important with so little freeboard back there. To properly brace the removable section of deck, a strong latticework was installed on the underside of the plywood sub-deck. This will be overlaid with styrene sheet to match the fore and aft sections of the deck, as nearly all of the structures from here on up will be built using styrene- my preferred material for detailing.
Jan 22, 2017, 08:03 PM
boat butcher
the goon's Avatar
.

Mark
Jan 22, 2017, 08:26 PM
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Dauntlessfan's Avatar
Wow a real showpiece already, excellent craftsmanship!
Jan 23, 2017, 08:49 AM
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J Bergsmith's Avatar
Looks outstanding!!!
Feb 05, 2017, 01:18 PM
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mariner02's Avatar
Thanks everyone- really enjoying this build.
Been working on the aft gun platform/deckhouse the last few days. This structure turned out to be quite a mind-bender with all sorts of strange angles, curves, and fairings. Photos don't really convey how complex it was, but there is no way it could have been built correctly without the NARA plans I brought back from D.C.

It's also important to note just how much these ships were modified over the decades, starting within a year of leaving the shipyard. Deckhouses were extended, gun platforms enclosed, armament removed/added and many other changes made to improve habitability. To accurately build an example as they looked upon delivery requires the earliest possible blueprints and good photo references not later than 1925. By WWII the ships had been altered to such an extent that prints from that era are almost unusable for those looking to build an early variant. I have also discovered that there were subtle differences between the ships of this class depending on which shipyard built them. For example, the lower casemate guns were completely faired into the upper ones on the first three ships, partially faired on the next two, and the final five ships built by Cramp only had exposed brackets. Little things like that are inconsequential to some, but I really try to get the details right on the specific ship I'm building... plus I enjoy that sort of stuff.

As mentioned earlier the primary medium from here on out is styrene, although the gun barrels are brass (turned down to get some taper). I also paint sections as I go along; trying to mask everything later once the detailing is done is almost impossible to do properly.

I could focus on the aft end of the main deck next, but I think I'm going to move forward and get started on the bridge/forward casemates. Actually not a ton of superstructure on these ships, but what is there is complicated.
Feb 05, 2017, 02:05 PM
Registered User
This is really beautiful.
I noticed that you said that you had to seal the main deck aft. Will you be able to service the rudder and linkage if something amiss occurs?
Feb 05, 2017, 02:17 PM
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Gravman's Avatar
Very impressive work! Those drawings sure have a lot of information. Kinda difficult to get it sorted out I bet. Sure is a sleek hull design.

The rudder linkage might be an issue in the future but with your building skills I doubt you will have any problems but just in case you might consider the magnetic rudder catch assembly. This way you could remove the rudder any time without removing the deck.
Last edited by Gravman; Feb 05, 2017 at 02:23 PM.
Feb 05, 2017, 02:21 PM
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Thanks Jeno & Gravman. No access to the tiller arm currently, but it wouldn't be too hard to create a hole if a problem were to occur, and re-seal it. That said I installed a top-quality locking arm and all brass hardware, so I don't anticipate any issues. The servo is in an accessible spot however and can be replaced if it gives out.
Feb 05, 2017, 02:44 PM
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mariner02's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravman
... just in case you might consider the magnetic rudder catch assembly. This way you could remove the rudder any time without removing the deck.
Probably too late at this point, but that's not something I'm familiar with. Can you enlighten me?


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