Eachine Wizard X220 ARF F3 - Updated Version (review, work in progress) - Page 35 - RC Groups
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Apr 14, 2017, 04:04 AM
Fan of just about anything RC
SoloProFan's Avatar
First time you install the self locking prop nuts, it will be a pain to screw these on, as threads need to be cut in the nylon insert. If you don't have a proper tool for it, don't bother, it will be a torture for hands and quad.

Btw, why do people want to get into bootloader mode? Did you first try flashing firmware with the regular method? Select firmware flasher tab, select right target, set manual baud rate and then hit flash firmware button? If that doesn't work, and also doesn't work with different baud rate settings, it's time to start shorting bootloader pins. Bootloader is designed foremost to give access to the board, when all other methods have failed.

Compare it to your computer, when you don't know the password for it, and you didn't write it down somewhere, or told your wife, and there is no way to get your computer working, then it's time to "format C"
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Apr 14, 2017, 04:08 PM
Registered User
Will_GH's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloProFan
First time you install the self locking prop nuts, it will be a pain to screw these on, as threads need to be cut in the nylon insert. If you don't have a proper tool for it, don't bother, it will be a torture for hands and quad.
Ha, new prop nuts are a pain for sure!
In our setup video I tell people to just go ahead and run the nut on to thread it without the prop, then remove and reinstall with prop, makes life easier, especially if you have to use that included "prop wrench"
Apr 15, 2017, 05:43 PM
Master Destroyer of foam
Fishbonez5670's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishbonez5670
Hello all,
I just recently loaded multishot on my machine and upped my motor timing to medium high. I also used twistedfarts pids post number 279 and the wizard now flies like a champ However between 3/4 and full throttle the machine wants to yaw to the left and control is lost. When I slow down of course I can regain control. Trying to decide what would cause this as for I have never had or seen a problem like this before.
Any help you all may have would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance bonez
Quote:
Originally Posted by OnBoardWithBlade
Likely your left thumb as it reaches max extension is pulling the stick, lol.
I was hoping you were right but even as I pinched and released my hand from the throttle stick she stil yawed both left and right. So I pose this question. Could it be a PID issue?
Apr 15, 2017, 09:48 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishbonez5670
I was hoping you were right but even as I pinched and released my hand from the throttle stick she stil yawed both left and right. So I pose this question. Could it be a PID issue?
Could be several possibilities really, not just PID's. You'll need to go through the process of elimination, starting with the easy stuff first.

Check your radio in the Receiver Tab of BetaFlight to see if there's any twitching. You can also watch the bars while you make inputs on the sticks to give you some visual feedback of your thumb movements. Perhaps increasing the dead band at the center and a stick calibration would be helpful.

Are you using a Taranis? If so, which version of OpenTX? I recall a specific version was causing yaw twitch issues, one reason why I'm still on 2.0.9.

You could try adjusting the TPA to see if that has any effect. Then there's all the filters to play with.

Others will suggest soft mounting the FC and/or motors.
Apr 21, 2017, 07:35 AM
Registered User
Question for all you Wizard... wizards:

I just got in 2 ARF Wizards (1 for me, 1 for my wife) and while one setups perfectly, the other shows all zeros on the receiver tab in Betaflight (yes, they came pre-flashed with Betaflight... I thought they were still shipping with Cleanflight). Using 3 different receivers gives the exact same result, but the same receivers work perfectly on the other Wizard.

Now for my question: is there anything that anyone can think of that would cause this or am I (as I fear) looking at a 'broken' flight controller?

Note: I posted this in both Wizard threads since it seems there are different people reading each one.

EDIT for future reference (anyone else with the same problem): I used Solo's BF Dump file from post #2 and my receiver is now working... still no clue what setting was bad, but it's fixed now!
Last edited by GRTWHT; Apr 21, 2017 at 06:45 PM. Reason: Fixed!
Apr 24, 2017, 10:56 AM
Registered User

Weird Question


Does anyone know why the vtx and cam have the data lines going to the PDB? I was thinking about installing a micro OSD . I, of course, would take those two lines and move them to the OSD. I am just a little confused why they are setup like they are currently. I found this and It looks really clean:
http://www.helipal.com/storm-micro-o...plug-play.html


Also, Does anyone know of a good source for the JST-Sh cables for the SP F3 board? I will most likely setup the MicroOSD to UART 2 and I do not see easily accessible pins to solder them to. I would like to plug a 4-pin JST-SH to the board and connect the OSD to the other side.
Last edited by youmansk235; Apr 24, 2017 at 11:03 AM.
Apr 24, 2017, 08:14 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by GRTWHT
Question for all you Wizard... wizards:

I just got in 2 ARF Wizards (1 for me, 1 for my wife) and while one setups perfectly, the other shows all zeros on the receiver tab in Betaflight (yes, they came pre-flashed with Betaflight... I thought they were still shipping with Cleanflight). Using 3 different receivers gives the exact same result, but the same receivers work perfectly on the other Wizard.

Now for my question: is there anything that anyone can think of that would cause this or am I (as I fear) looking at a 'broken' flight controller?

Note: I posted this in both Wizard threads since it seems there are different people reading each one.

EDIT for future reference (anyone else with the same problem): I used Solo's BF Dump file from post #2 and my receiver is now working... still no clue what setting was bad, but it's fixed now!
I'm sure your port settings or receiver settings were not right.
Eachine Wizard X220 Initial Setup & Upgrade to Betaflight 3.1 (29 min 47 sec)


Watch that video and understand how to setup and upgrade betaflight. Lots of small things can be overlooked and it can be a real pain messing with your quad for a few hours when you only forgot to change one little thing.
Apr 25, 2017, 05:18 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by youmansk235

Does anyone know of a good source for the JST-Sh cables?...
eBay.
Apr 25, 2017, 05:56 AM
Fan of just about anything RC
SoloProFan's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by GRTWHT
Question for all you Wizard... wizards:

I just got in 2 ARF Wizards (1 for me, 1 for my wife) and while one setups perfectly, the other shows all zeros on the receiver tab in Betaflight (yes, they came pre-flashed with Betaflight... I thought they were still shipping with Cleanflight). Using 3 different receivers gives the exact same result, but the same receivers work perfectly on the other Wizard.

Now for my question: is there anything that anyone can think of that would cause this or am I (as I fear) looking at a 'broken' flight controller?

Note: I posted this in both Wizard threads since it seems there are different people reading each one.

EDIT for future reference (anyone else with the same problem): I used Solo's BF Dump file from post #2 and my receiver is now working... still no clue what setting was bad, but it's fixed now!
Glad you got it working. And afaik all Wizards are shipped with BF, both my RTF, which still had the Naze32, and this ARF with F3, came with BF pre-installed.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistedfarts
I'm sure your port settings or receiver settings were not right.
Likely that was the cause. If one setting is not right, receiver will not be able to communicate with FC.
Apr 29, 2017, 03:38 PM
Registered User
Ok so here are my specs:
  • Eachine Wizard x220
  • Eachine TX526 vTx set at 600mW
  • JJPRO goggles
  • Matching Aomway cloverleaf antennas for vTx and goggles
  • Runcam Swift 2 with GoPro lens
I've moved the vTx wires from the VCC and joined them with the camera wires on the 12 volt pads on the pdb. Connected the video (yellow wires of each). Also added an LC filter between the power imput and the vTx/camera.

Problem: Video is horrible. It's fine if I'm directly in front of myself, but anything even remotely "far away" or behind the smallest tree it goes to snow on the screen. It's basically unflyable.

What I've tried:
-Tried switching the vTx channels
-Tried another location
-Tried various antennas

PLEASE HELP. What else can I do?
Apr 29, 2017, 06:00 PM
Registered User
Are you sure you have your receiver on the correct channel? Could be off a bit and that will cause this kind of behavior. I would try different channels on the VTX and RX and see if it's always the same.
Apr 29, 2017, 10:40 PM
Master Destroyer of foam
Fishbonez5670's Avatar

Head banging


Good Evening folks,
I seem to be having a problem. I recently upgraded to betaflight with the most modern firmware for this board that is currently in my EAchine Wizard. After setting everything up that I know to do. In the transmitter tab I can do nothing. I beleive I set all the settings correctly in the gui, I have also typed in the CLI set spektrum_sat_bind = 9 saved and rebooted connected power and binded with my DX8G2 then typed set spektrum_sat_bind = 0 saved. I have tried binding the sat outside of the quad. I have checked to see if I have 5 volts on the grey wire and 3 volts on the brown wire and checked continuity to the ground. I also checked the wires going to the sat and they all have continuity. Yet still i have nothing. Is there something I have missed? I have been banging my head against the wall all day and have never had this much trouble. As a last resort I even tried returning to cleanflight with no avail. I am stumped. Everything worked fine until i tried betaflight
Any help you all can provide will l be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Fishbonez
PS The loose wire in the picture is the wire I used as a boot loader and just happens to be laying there
May 12, 2017, 09:04 PM
Registered User

Wizard x220, think it's new style has F3 board


Does the wizards F3 flight controller have a manual boot button on I can not get it to flash connects to current firmware no problem updated the ESCs no problem but alway get failed response when trying the load BF 3.1.7
May 12, 2017, 09:08 PM
Registered User
Oh oh question you mentioned bootloader loose wire do you need this to flash firmware on FC, if so can you show me picture of this being done, a mapping of where wire needs to connect a and b you know what I mean. Just posted having trouble flashing then read the our post above mine.
May 13, 2017, 12:19 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAYSON76
Oh oh question you mentioned bootloader loose wire do you need this to flash firmware on FC, if so can you show me picture of this being done, a mapping of where wire needs to connect a and b you know what I mean. Just posted having trouble flashing then read the our post above mine.
Just use a simple metal like paper clip, short the boot section in board. Keep it there and power your fc. You will be in bootloader mode.
Or you just solder the standard pin to there, every time you went to flash, just use a screw driver short it


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