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Sep 30, 2016, 01:50 AM
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Build Log

Auster J5F Aiglet (Ivan plans-Aris build)


Hi folks!
This is my new Build Log for the famous Auster Aiglet.
The plans are drawn by my friend Ivan Pettigrew.
It is my third scratch built project from Ivan plans.
The first was the large Catalina (100"), and the second was the large Twin Otter (600 version) for which I also have a build log.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2363690

Yesterday I spent much time to go through some previous build logs for the Aiglet, in order to familiarize myself with this project.
I loved the planes of Warren Jones and my friend Sopwith Mike.

I already decided on the paint scheme, and the following guidelines:
This plane will easily convert from land-plane to seaplane.
It will have split flaps similar to Mikes plane.
It will not be a Scale competition project because I need to fly it soon, (the PBY is not so easy to transport and assembly)!

So, I welcome you friends aboard, and I am looking forward to receive your inputs, ideas, comments, and off course motivation!
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Sep 30, 2016, 02:49 AM
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raipe's Avatar
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Sep 30, 2016, 02:55 AM
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in my self!!
Sep 30, 2016, 03:35 AM
...design-build-fly-publish...
eye4wings's Avatar
Are you okay with a one-piece wing Ari ?

I can show how I did the two-piece wings for my Zenair 701 (80" span) if you would prefer to have the struts structural and permanently attached to the wings. For my pin and loop system it takes about a minute to attach wings to cabin and be ready to go... with no fixing screws to fumble into grass!

Robin
Sep 30, 2016, 08:01 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
I'm in Ari - mine is still flying and still gets admiring glances. It makes a really good model. My wing is one-piece, but I have a big van and a big shed!
Sep 30, 2016, 08:10 AM
There are some who call me....
campbelltf's Avatar
Thanks for sharing your build, I'll happily wave my pom-poms from the stands.

Tim
Sep 30, 2016, 08:18 AM
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Welcome


Welcome folks!
Yes Robin and Mike it will definitely be a one piece wing!
Robin please share your tricks here or send me a link, because I also hate to fiddle with small bolts and loose air time ...
Sep 30, 2016, 11:05 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
I do use nylon bolts for the main wing attachment. I also have struts which are attached using 3mm bolts into captive nuts. The bolts only have to be undone a couple of turns to release the strut ends, so no worries about losing them. I also provided a hard point for the eventual fitting of floats, but never got round to it. Don't forget the under-fin!
Sep 30, 2016, 11:43 AM
Registered User
Thank you Mike! After your crash repair did you change the split flaps? The ones I see on WJ358 look very realistic, are these built with same technique as in your log?
Also I read a lot about the issues you are addressing with the fuselage.
I start to realize what you mean be closely examining fuselage photos from the full size plane.
I think I can start with the two sides level on the board and then try to approach the real aircraft by varying the sizes of the cross sticks. What do you think?
Sep 30, 2016, 12:11 PM
Registered User
T: 3:00
Up above there is a stopwatch counting for this build.
My rough estimate is that 250 hours will be enough.
Already three hours though, and I did not touch the woods.
I need to complete the construction of the fuselage in my brain before I cut any woods.
It is funny that frame fuselages look so simple and easy, till you need to get started!!!
Sep 30, 2016, 12:54 PM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
The flaps on the Army one are dummy ones. I've never ever needed to slow down more than the plane will fly, but I have to admit that a steeper landing approach might be useful in a smaller flying field.

The real fuselage is quite complex. But I've stood next to Ivan's Auster and not seen anything "wrong" except the very forward undercarriage, which mine also has.

But mine has never tipped on its nose!
Sep 30, 2016, 01:35 PM
...design-build-fly-publish...
eye4wings's Avatar
I suppose even if you have settled on the one piece wing as drawn by Ivan others may like touse a different method, so I'll try to explain it here.
As I said it was used on the Zenair (which Mike may well remember flying very briefly and twitchily at Strawberry field!) but it is a very similar aircraft and the method would transfer easily.

As anybody into aircraft will be aware most aircraft have the wings removable from the fuselage after undoing the bolts that hold them in place so the one piece wing is a method peculiar to modelers. It is a tradition - and therefore to my rebellious mind open to questioning. Bolts are not on my favourites list as they can get lost. I therefore came up with the loop and pin system which uses a thin wire loop attached to the cabane that lays next to a similar loop firmly bonded to each of the two spars in the wing and allows a wire pin to be inserted from the leading edge of the wing through the main spar loops, guided to its rear spar loops by a length of brass tube thus making the connection.
The wire pin is the next gauge up from the loop wire (can be 18 or 20swg) and has a slight bend between the loop positions that gives friction sufficient to hold it in place inside the tube.
This sorts out the wing root positions.

The Struts are permanently fixed to their wings - four connection points each via a right angle bend in the wires with their tails sitting in the centre of the spars and glued solid. The forward and rear spars are joined together with the forward on projecting far enough to have two right-angle bends in it, one downwards and the further one bending forwards.

There is an attachment bracket /hard point glued into the fuselage floor through which the strut wire fits. To attach the wing to the fuselage place the wing on the ground with leading edge down, locate the end of this wire in its hole and let it drop in then rotate the wing back in position so the stut drops again through its hole. The strut needs no other fixing.
Now locate the wing so the loops in the fuselage locate in the wing root and with a little pressure on the tip withdraw the fixing pin from its tube guide. You will feel the wing settle onto the pins. Now reinsert the pin and push fully home. Test that the pin has caught both loops and you're ready to fly. The only part that could get lost is the wire pin which is 7 or 8 inches long and is in the hand for only seconds.

The only other disadvantage I have found is that since the wings are permanently connected to their strut system, storage and transport is trickier to avoid the struts puncturing other model coverings.

I hope the photos below go some way to clarifying the description above.

Robin
Oct 01, 2016, 08:33 AM
Registered User
Thank you for sharing Robin! I have never seen such a system, it is very interesting.
Oct 01, 2016, 10:57 AM
...design-build-fly-publish...
eye4wings's Avatar
Thanks Ari,
It is closer to the full size practise than most of us get and very lightweight because it saves the structural weight we might have to use to make a one-piece wing with only cosmetic struts practical.
As a designer that is important to me.
I have been developing the system over the years and most of my models now use the loop and pin system for on field airframe connections because it is quick to assemble .

Robin
Oct 01, 2016, 11:32 AM
Registered User
LukeZ's Avatar
Good luck with the build Ari, I've added it to the thread list. I'm sure 250 hours from now you will have a terrific model no matter what. But I also remember very well how many hours can be spent staring at the plan!


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