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Old Oct 18, 2004, 01:05 PM
weather_man is offline
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semper ventosus
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Thanks Ron, found the plastic parts.
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Old Oct 19, 2004, 10:01 AM
Chuck H is offline
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Crashing....and loving it
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Having lots of fun learning to fly my SS. When the battery dies (or I cut power) the plane noses down and will not glide without up elevator. Is this a CG issue? BTW, I have no down or right thrust and am trimmed to fly straight and level under power. Also, has anyone tried these batteries?
Old Oct 19, 2004, 10:01 AM
Szymon Bartus is offline
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Hello,

I have got two reciervers:
-micro recierver Graupner's XP 8 FM, more data here:
http://www.shop.graupner.de/webapp/c...&show_cat=5564
-standart recierver Jeti's REX 7:
http://www.jetimodel.cz/eng/hlavnien.htm

Which would be better to Slow Stick?

Szymon
Old Oct 19, 2004, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck H
Hav... When the battery dies (or I cut power) the plane noses down and will not glide without up elevator. Is this a CG issue? BTW, I have no down or right thrust and am trimmed to fly straight and level under power. ...[/URL]?
It's because you have some down trim in the SS to keep it flying level under power. This is why the simple modification of adding a little down thrust makes the SS more pleasurable to fly.
Old Oct 19, 2004, 12:50 PM
boomerace is offline
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Been There! Done That!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Szymon Bartus
Hello,

I have got two reciervers:
-micro recierver Graupner's XP 8 FM, more data here:
http://www.shop.graupner.de/webapp/c...&show_cat=5564
-standart recierver Jeti's REX 7:
http://www.jetimodel.cz/eng/hlavnien.htm

Which would be better to Slow Stick?


Szymon
It really doesn't matter as the Slow Stick should fly fine with either. The Slow Stick doesn't mind a little extra weight.
boomer
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Old Oct 19, 2004, 01:00 PM
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8cell nicad's ok?.....not...


Stick with NiMH batteries. They're about half the weight with same power and don't have "memory" like Nicads. Which means you can "top off" a NiMH battery any time without screwing up the battery. You can't do that with a NiCad. You have to discharge completely, then re-charge.

This guy's contention that this is ideal for the slow stick is IMHO not quite accurate. It will work fine, don't get me wront, just not as well as NiMH's in an 8 cell stick.

My preference is the 7 or 8 cell Kan 1050's. 7 if you're using the 350 motor. 8 if you're using the 400 or brushless.

I'm still a puss, so haven't ventured into lipo's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck H
Having lots of fun learning to fly my SS. When the battery dies (or I cut power) the plane noses down and will not glide without up elevator. Is this a CG issue? BTW, I have no down or right thrust and am trimmed to fly straight and level under power. Also, has anyone tried these batteries?
Old Oct 19, 2004, 01:23 PM
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CG is measured from ?


Since I was unable to test fly my SS Sunday, I decided to complete the final real LG upgrade by going with a little larger music wire than the original. This did indeed stiffen the LG, but it still seems to have enough flex to provide a soft landing.

Now that everything is completed based on all the suggested modifications found here, I have a question about the CG measurement. The instructions and Boomer state 4 1/8" from the LE of the wing. Do I measure from the foam or from the fiberglass rods? These rods are about 1/8" which isn't much, but I thought I would ask to be sure.

Thanks!
Tony
Old Oct 19, 2004, 01:24 PM
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Crashing....and loving it
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jimsp, that makes sense. I think I also had to trim rudder as well. Guess I can't put off that thrust mod any longer!

Thanks millerhill for the advice. I currently have a 350 and am using 6-cell GWS 300 MAH batteries and a 7-cell 650 MAH from cheap battery packs. I get about 5-6 minute flights with both. Is this right? I think it may be the charger - the one I have is a little DC unit with a 30-minute dial timer.
Old Oct 19, 2004, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMF
Since I was unable to test fly my SS Sunday, I decided to complete the final real LG upgrade by going with a little larger music wire than the original. This did indeed stiffen the LG, but it still seems to have enough flex to provide a soft landing.

Now that everything is completed based on all the suggested modifications found here, I have a question about the CG measurement. The instructions and Boomer state 4 1/8" from the LE of the wing. Do I measure from the foam or from the fiberglass rods? These rods are about 1/8" which isn't much, but I thought I would ask to be sure.

Thanks!
Tony
Rods! Although it really wouldn't matter.
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
Old Oct 19, 2004, 01:57 PM
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Battery


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck H
jimsp, that makes sense. I think I also had to trim rudder as well. Guess I can't put off that thrust mod any longer!

Thanks millerhill for the advice. I currently have a 350 and am using 6-cell GWS 300 MAH batteries and a 7-cell 650 MAH from cheap battery packs. I get about 5-6 minute flights with both. Is this right? I think it may be the charger - the one I have is a little DC unit with a 30-minute dial timer.
That sounds about right. The 350 is going to suck the life out of a 650MAH battery pretty fast due to the amperage draw. You will almost double flight time going to 7 cell Kan 2/3A 1050's (I think that's right )
Old Oct 19, 2004, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerace
Rods! Although it really wouldn't matter.
boomer
www.boomerseflight.com
Thanks Boomer. I thought it wouldn't matter a great deal one way or the other, but I thought I would ask.

Thanks again,
Tony
Old Oct 23, 2004, 07:31 AM
weather_man is offline
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Does anyone have pictures of working ailerons on the SS?
Old Oct 23, 2004, 07:56 AM
Szymon Bartus is offline
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And another question:

1. Is it worth to order SG version + EPS 350C + gear box + propeller + landing gear?
It's more expensive than usuall kit (about 8$).
I've read here, that 350 is better than 300.

2. Is it worth to order spare fuse? (about 5$). I will fly with light LiPos (lightly over 2000mAh 2S).

3. And how many spare parts I should get?
My present parts shopping list:
- props (4 1180 and 1 or 2 1260)
- shafts (1-2)
- parts D frame (1)
- shell from GB (1 or 2)
- fuse (1 or no spare fuse)
- spinner (1 or no spinner)

4. What could happened when I didn't used prop-saver?
Is it worth price of additional shaft and propsaver? (7$)

5. Will M3 screw, nut and washer be good to mount motor by it?

PS: 66 pages of ultimate help thread read by me!

Szymon
Last edited by Szymon Bartus; Oct 23, 2004 at 07:59 AM.
Old Oct 23, 2004, 11:59 AM
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Don't waste your time with 1180 props, get the 1260 instead for replacements (more thrust). Get at least one extra gearbox shaft, they bend easily on noseover landings especially in taller grass. Leave the spinner off, I don't think I've ever seen a picture on here where somebody had the spinner on their plane, it doesn't really save the gearbox shaft on noseovers. Maybe have a spare fuselage, if you don't have a local hobbyshop it would be better to have it and not need it, instead of waiting a week to order a new one. You would need to hit pretty hard to break it though.

If you don't use a propsaver you have a higher chance of the prop breaking on nose landings, and you'll be more likely to bend the gearbox shaft. I used one of the tail mount screws to hold the gearbox to the frame, I glued the tail directly to the fuse. You can make the tail stronger by putting tape on the leading edges of the horizontal and verticle fin before you mount them on the plane, this will make them less likely to break or bend if the plane hits something with it's tail.
Old Oct 23, 2004, 04:01 PM
Szymon Bartus is offline
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Thanks Esso Bee. I also should add, that I'm not complete noob, I'm familiar with flying a little. But spare parts could help whenever.

Szymon


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