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Jul 02, 2019, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo Flynow
Removing 4 hunks of metallic foil surrounding an antenna can only be an improvement!
It is a little baffling to me. The tags are metallic but also quite large and seem like they could obstruct control arms and etc.
The other issue I found was the esc to motor cable was wrapped around the front wheel servo arm. So I rearranged the wiring and esc antenna and all is good now. Again all good advice and probably wouldn't have done it if you didn't point it out.
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Jul 02, 2019, 04:40 PM
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deacono
It is a little baffling to me. The tags are metallic but also quite large and seem like they could obstruct control arms and etc.
The other issue I found was the esc to motor cable was wrapped around the front wheel servo arm. So I rearranged the wiring and esc antenna and all is good now. Again all good advice and probably wouldn't have done it if you didn't point it out.
That's what this board is for!

The only other problems was having 2 times when a servo locked up which sent the ESC into LVC and it just dropped out the sky. So that happened twice to me. Servos were red hot each time it happened. Many never have servo problems with this plane....Lucky me.
Jul 02, 2019, 06:41 PM
Registered User
DAVID, I know from nothing about the Cessna brick.. no suggestions.
Every Habu-S brick I have reused had different behaviour. All like being outside.. and perhaps that ensures a teensy bit of motion on bind/initialize. I dunno.
BTW.. any wire the same length as the original antenna will work.. it need not be an "antenna wire". I use small gauge enameled wire just because.. but it is truly not fussy. And I think all the basic UMX 2S antennae are the same length, too.

jack/juanito
Jul 02, 2019, 11:02 PM
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bhoov128's Avatar
All 2.4GHz antennae should be the same length
Jul 27, 2019, 01:13 PM
Curse you, Red Baron!
Crash Override's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by juanito
DAVID, I know from nothing about the Cessna brick.. no suggestions.
Every Habu-S brick I have reused had different behaviour. All like being outside.. and perhaps that ensures a teensy bit of motion on bind/initialize. I dunno.
BTW.. any wire the same length as the original antenna will work.. it need not be an "antenna wire". I use small gauge enameled wire just because.. but it is truly not fussy. And I think all the basic UMX 2S antennae are the same length, too.

jack/juanito
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhoov128
All 2.4GHz antennae should be the same length
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tec...-fundamentals/

That length is 30.61mm (using band center 2.45GHz as the base frequency for calculating the element length of the antenna) for a 1/4-wave antenna (half-wave and full-wave antennae are too long for this application).

If the antenna wire is mounted to and sticking right off the PCB, then yes any wire of decent conductivity will do. The tradeoff is the antenna is inside the fuselage, setting up for possible interference from anything nearby.

Any RX antenna you see that has shrink tubing at the end opposite the PCB: that's a basic dipole antenna attached to the end of a coaxial cable. The shrink tubing covers the ground/shield side of the dipole. (There's a couple pictures in the article showing how this is done using a 2.4GHz router PCB, but the principle is the same.)
Jul 27, 2019, 02:39 PM
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David Wile's Avatar

Habu Antenna Replacement


Hey folks,

I do not know how, where, or when the antenna came off my Habu brick; I think it probably came off when we were in Cape Coral in Jan/Feb of 2018 and I was replacing the Habu brick in my Pitts with a Cessna 182 brick. Having no knowledge or experience in antenna workings, I simply de-soldered the antenna from an old Pitts brick and then soldered it to the Habu brick. Bench testing the brick in a vertical position indicated it is working properly, and I will be putting it in another Pitts.

I wish there was another 2S plane other than the Pitts in which to use the Habu brick, but the ones I like all use the brick with the elevator and ruder built onto it rather than servo ports. Besides that, I really do prefer the Cessna 182 brick over the Habu brick. What else is there to do with a Habu brick?


Best wishes,
Dave Wile
Jul 27, 2019, 04:54 PM
Registered User
David, any plane that can carry the extra servo weight can benefit from the Habu-S brick. I have them in Pittsies, in scratch/kit-built biplanes, and in a couple of old Cox Wings mini warbirds. Even aircraft with no ailerons can benefit from the SAFE.. as I found on the Guillows biplane.

But yeah.. I also have several with no home planned. You could give the Habu-S brick to another modeller who wants to fly but is not quite up to a UMX Pitts stock... since it is a real hero in that role, as you proved so long ago.

jack/juanito
Jul 28, 2019, 08:58 AM
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David Wile's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by juanito
David, any plane that can carry the extra servo weight can benefit from the Habu-S brick. I have them in Pittsies, in scratch/kit-built biplanes, and in a couple of old Cox Wings mini warbirds. Even aircraft with no ailerons can benefit from the SAFE.. as I found on the Guillows biplane.

But yeah.. I also have several with no home planned. You could give the Habu-S brick to another modeller who wants to fly but is not quite up to a UMX Pitts stock... since it is a real hero in that role, as you proved so long ago.
jack/juanito
Hey Jack,

I would like to have a UMX-WACO to fly, but it is not sold with a SAFE brick, and I will not have any plane without SAFE. The WACO has the elevator and rudder servos on the brick, and the only way I can see to put a Habu or Cessna brick in it would be to install servos like the Pitts or Cessna, and that is more work than I am willing to do these days. Besides that, the UMX planes are getting smaller and smaller to work on as I get older and older. As much as I would like to have the little WACO, I guess I will stick to the PItts for the time being. It has been a great plane for me.

My buddy has started flying UMX jets, and while they are a temptation with SAFE Select, I am reluctant to get into them with all their speed. I think the Pitts and the Cessna will do me just fine for the little planes.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
Jul 28, 2019, 09:55 PM
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Wile
Hey Jack,

I would like to have a UMX-WACO to fly, but it is not sold with a SAFE brick, and I will not have any plane without SAFE. The WACO has the elevator and rudder servos on the brick, and the only way I can see to put a Habu or Cessna brick in it would be to install servos like the Pitts or Cessna, and that is more work than I am willing to do these days. Besides that, the UMX planes are getting smaller and smaller to work on as I get older and older. As much as I would like to have the little WACO, I guess I will stick to the PItts for the time being. It has been a great plane for me.

My buddy has started flying UMX jets, and while they are a temptation with SAFE Select, I am reluctant to get into them with all their speed. I think the Pitts and the Cessna will do me just fine for the little planes.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
EDF planes only fly fast if you give them throttle....lol. There is a misconception that EDF's need speed or they drop out of the sky. The only thing with them is planning your turns and knowing that hitting the throttle doesn't instantly get you out of trouble like prop planes.

I would tend to suggest the little UMX F16...now I don't have one, but have 2 other F16's in various scales ...a 50mm and a 70mm. The little 50mm turns on a dime yet cut the throttle and it floats like a glider...and it doesn't even have AS3X. It's a BlitzworksRC F16 from Bananahobby. The delta wing makes it pretty much a powered glider. The F16 in general is a great airframe to start with.

If you don't have the UMX TImber...that should be in your hangar...it can fly at near walking speed on half flaps.
Aug 18, 2019, 05:49 PM
Registered User
Question for you 182 pilots. Does anyone put a little hot glue or something on the struts? Mine even with gentle landings are popping out from time to time and I'm afraid the little nubs on the wing end of the strut will eventually break off. New to this plane but it's a great flyer so far!
Aug 18, 2019, 10:14 PM
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David Wile's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by tnriverluver
Does anyone put a little hot glue or something on the struts? Mine even with gentle landings are popping out from time to time and I'm afraid the little nubs on the wing end of the strut will eventually break off. New to this plane but it's a great flyer so far!
Hey Luver,

My struts have popped loose from the fuselage only two or three times in the past year or so, and each time it was from landing a bit too hard. They did not come off, however, and I simply pushed them back in the fuselage slot. If yours are more loose than mine and coming off too often, I would not want to glue them on because you may need to remove them at some later date. I think your idea of using a tiny dot of hot glue is a better idea than using glue. If you need to remove the struts at a later time, you should be able to remove the hot glue more easily. In my first Cessna my rudder servo went bad a few days after I first bought it. Horizon sent me a new servo which has been working fine ever since, but I did have to remove the wing and struts to get access to the inside of the fuselage, and there may be other reasons in the future to remove the struts also.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
Aug 19, 2019, 09:25 AM
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
A small dab of hot glue is your best bet.
Aug 19, 2019, 07:32 PM
Registered User
Dave Wild, the UMX Mig-15 has Safe and is easy to fly, great first EDF...
Aug 20, 2019, 07:55 AM
Headed down the far side.
David Wile's Avatar
Hey Wiz,

I was tempted to get one of those E-flite MIGs, but my buddy got a Freewing Panther and after seeing it fly a few times I got sucked in largely because of its pretty paint scheme. The Panther wingspan at 27 inch is a lot bigger than the 16 inch MIG, and its $98 price is better than the $110 MIG, Of course I paid another $10.50 for landing gear for the Panther, so the price ended up just about the same, but I also had to put one of my AR636 SAFE Select receivers in it.

The Panther wings and tail stabilizers are supposed to be installed with five minute epoxy which is just a big mess for me. I used FoamTac instead and hot glued the landing gear in place. I have it all set up, and it sounds great in my kitchen, but I have not yet had enough nerve or whatever to go out to our big flying field to try it out. My buddy's Panther takes a lot of runway to take off and land pretty fast, and I must admit I am more than just a bit hesitant to do it.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
Aug 20, 2019, 08:22 AM
Headed down the far side.
David Wile's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo Flynow
EDF planes only fly fast if you give them throttle....lol. There is a misconception that EDF's need speed or they drop out of the sky. The only thing with them is planning your turns and knowing that hitting the throttle doesn't instantly get you out of trouble like prop planes.

If you don't have the UMX TImber...that should be in your hangar...it can fly at near walking speed on half flaps.
Hey Hugo,

You can laugh all you want, but my buddy's Panther sure does look like it is going really fast when it takes off and lands. I tell myself I am just waiting for a new battery to arrive from China so I can finally fly my Panther for the first time, but the truth is I am intimidated by the whole EDF thing.

No, I do not have a UMX Timber. I know the big tires, SAFE Select, and flaps should make it a lot easier for me to fly, but I am not all that enamored with its overall looks. I prefer the looks of the tri-cycle geared Cessna, but I guess I really should consider getting a Timber. If they put it on sale, I think I will get one and blame it all on you.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile


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