Realacc GX210 CC3D/Naze32/F3 Racer /w 700TVL Camera & 40CH VTX ARF/RTF - $103/190 - Page 44 - RC Groups
Shop our Airplanes Products Drone Products Sales
Thread Tools
May 18, 2017, 07:41 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krotow
Mine HS1177 worked perfectly from 5V. So yes - you can use that cable. However if you will notice brownouts then switch camera powering to 12V.
Thanks.

How do you switch the camera to 12v ? Is it something you have to change in camera settings or you need to connect the camera with a 12v power source ?
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
May 18, 2017, 09:19 AM
Krotow
Quote:
Originally Posted by barthelemy
Thanks.

How do you switch the camera to 12v ? Is it something you have to change in camera settings or you need to connect the camera with a 12v power source ?
HS1177 camera is intended for 5-22V working voltage. So no problems with 12V - at least I didn't expected voltage related issues. You can take 12V from GX210 PDB.

Keep in mind that motors/ESC's in newer control modes (OneShot, MultiShot, DShot) with active braking generate a fair amount of EM noise which cause noise in form of snowy horizontal lines and jerking in FPV picture and in more extreme cases can even fry camera and VTX. If you have noise in FPV picture at middle-high throttle, take measures to prevent that in form of capacitor and/or LC filter. Low ESR capacitor on battery pads is a common fix for such kind of noises. Look in this video to understand why.

Recursion Labs - Little Bee ESC Extreme Motor Noise Generation and Filtration Testing for FPV (17 min 14 sec)


If you're not affected (eq. have a better ESC's) then don't worry. In other case you will have a clue why it happens and what you should do.
Last edited by Krotow; May 18, 2017 at 11:49 AM.
May 19, 2017, 03:22 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krotow
HS1177 camera is intended for 5-22V working voltage. So no problems with 12V - at least I didn't expected voltage related issues. You can take 12V from GX210 PDB.

Keep in mind that motors/ESC's in newer control modes (OneShot, MultiShot, DShot) with active braking generate a fair amount of EM noise which cause noise in form of snowy horizontal lines and jerking in FPV picture and in more extreme cases can even fry camera and VTX. If you have noise in FPV picture at middle-high throttle, take measures to prevent that in form of capacitor and/or LC filter. Low ESR capacitor on battery pads is a common fix for such kind of noises. Look in this video to understand why.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhvuQJPGHzU

If you're not affected (eq. have a better ESC's) then don't worry. In other case you will have a clue why it happens and what you should do.
Again thanks for explanation.

However, more you explain, more I have questions

1) How do you "take 12v from PDB" concretely ? what you call PDB is this metal square thing under my FC ? Does this means soldering ?


2) Looking on google I can see what is a LC filter but where do I put it : Between the VTX and the Camera ? if yes, Is there any LC filter version that will enable me to not solder at all ? I was imagining something plus on the 4pin of the camera connector on which you plug the 4pin cable coming from the VTX ....
May 19, 2017, 11:30 AM
Krotow
Quote:
Originally Posted by barthelemy
1) How do you "take 12v from PDB" concretely ? what you call PDB is this metal square thing under my FC ? Does this means soldering ?
There are more than metal square in GX210 stock PDB That board have 2 BEC-s - for 5V and 12V. You shall use 12V for camera/VTX powering. See picture below. And yes - it will involve soldering in any way.

Name: gx210_pdb_12v.jpg
Views: 7
Size: 234.4 KB
Description:

Quote:
Originally Posted by barthelemy
2) Looking on google I can see what is a LC filter but where do I put it : Between the VTX and the Camera ? if yes, Is there any LC filter version that will enable me to not solder at all ? I was imagining something plus on the 4pin of the camera connector on which you plug the 4pin cable coming from the VTX ....
Not so easy - stock GX210 wasn't intend to have LC filter so it must be added manually. You can solder connectors to LC filter though. In general LC filter should be placed between power source (battery, BEC) and camera/VTX - eq. camera and VTX should be already behind LC filter. See below

Name: LC-filter.png
Views: 16
Size: 11.5 KB
Description:

Although I believe that in GX210 we can live with low ESR capacitor on battery pads. LC filter should be added only as last resort solution when capacitor itself can't fix the huge amount of EM noise.
May 19, 2017, 04:16 PM
Registered User
Hey Krotow you are a star ! Thanks for all these detailed information.
May 21, 2017, 07:56 AM
Registered User
Just had my first flights with my new 3s 1300mah, wow so much better than 1500mah or 1800mah, quite impressed, the qud is much easier to control as the battery impact much less the balance

I have even done my first accrobaties as I was was feeeling much more confident in my flying.

I have also started to modify all my PIDs (especially Rate and SuperRate with the advice of SoloProFAN) and this is much better now, lots of tweaking still to do but I start to feel muhc more confident in my control of the quad

Regarding llifespan of lipos, when you have finished your session and all your lipos are discharged (empty) and you know that the next time you will be able to fly will be in 1 week, what is better ? Charge them directly today full and recharge them a little bit just before the session in one week time (as they discharge over time) or is it better to let them discharged until charging them just before the session in 1 week ?

Thanks
May 21, 2017, 10:44 AM
Krotow
It is not good to keep LiPo's empty. Bad things will happen to LiPo's if they're staying empty at long time. However they shouldn't stay fully charged at long time as well - they will start deteriorate in such way too. Better is to charge them to storage voltage (3.7-3.8V). I usually charge them full when I have the possibility to get where charger is. Except when I know that I most likely will not fly at next 3+ weeks. Then I charge/discharge them to 3.8V.
May 21, 2017, 12:23 PM
Registered User
Ok cheers, Will continue as I do : charging full as soon as possible after using and recharge them a little after 1 week before using them again
May 23, 2017, 03:01 PM
Get there in the end!
Stecozz's Avatar
Since connecting up both my swift 2 and TS5823S vtx to the 12v pads i too am getting terrible mid throttle interference in my goggles.
Could a quick fix be to run the swift on 5v and leave the vtx on 12v?
May 23, 2017, 03:10 PM
Krotow
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stecozz
Since connecting up both my swift 2 and TS5823S vtx to the 12v pads i too am getting terrible mid throttle interference in my goggles.
Could a quick fix be to run the swift on 5v and leave the vtx on 12v?
Do you see noise in FPV picture only at middle throtle, but not at low and high throttle? Or in all middle-high throttle range? If noise happen only at middle throttle, pay attention are your quad doesn't twitch around horizontal axis. Oversensitive gyros are tended to have yaw twitching if FC is not soft-mounted. And on yaw twitching ESC's generate terrible EM noise which you see as noise in FPV picture at middle throttle. LED strip also may have jerking light on that. Solution is to mount FC board on rubber rings, ruber stands etc.

Otherwise put 1000-2000 uF Low ESR capacitor on battery pads.
May 23, 2017, 03:20 PM
Get there in the end!
Stecozz's Avatar
It is around half throttle that it happens,its strange as it didnt happen with the original vtx?
Might have a faulty vtx maybe?


Just swapped to a different vtx and it seems much better.

Thanks
Last edited by Stecozz; May 23, 2017 at 03:48 PM.
Jun 01, 2017, 01:42 AM
Get there in the end!
Stecozz's Avatar
Thanks
Last edited by Stecozz; Jun 01, 2017 at 01:48 AM.
Jun 01, 2017, 01:47 AM
Get there in the end!
Stecozz's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krotow
Do you see noise in FPV picture only at middle throtle, but not at low and high throttle? Or in all middle-high throttle range? If noise happen only at middle throttle, pay attention are your quad doesn't twitch around horizontal axis. Oversensitive gyros are tended to have yaw twitching if FC is not soft-mounted. And on yaw twitching ESC's generate terrible EM noise which you see as noise in FPV picture at middle throttle. LED strip also may have jerking light on that. Solution is to mount FC board on rubber rings, ruber stands etc.

Otherwise put 1000-2000 uF Low ESR capacitor on battery pads.
Do you solder the positive and negative of the capacitor to the positive and negative pads,sorry just checking?

Ive just soldered 330uF capacitors to each esc and im still getting interference mid to high throttle?
Jun 01, 2017, 04:32 AM
Krotow
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stecozz
Do you solder the positive and negative of the capacitor to the positive and negative pads,sorry just checking?

Ive just soldered 330uF capacitors to each esc and im still getting interference mid to high throttle?
What! Did you connected all of them them backwards? Still alive?

Well, electrolytic capacitors will pop when they are connected backwards. See this

Don't Take Capacitors for Granted (0 min 38 sec)


FYI: Tantalum capacitors with their hard casing will do that same, but with great force. I got a "bullet hole" in kitchen wall. Read stories about broken windows too. Don't do this at home, seriously.
Last edited by Krotow; Jun 01, 2017 at 04:45 AM.
Jun 01, 2017, 05:10 AM
Get there in the end!
Stecozz's Avatar
I connected them + to + and - to -
But still have faint lines on screen around mid to high throttle?
Maybe my gyro is on its way out?


Thread Tools