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Dec 06, 2019, 02:38 PM
BisDak2
humayraykinaon's Avatar
Bumping this thread!

Took out mine out of the box, charge the lipo and have a blast, totally forgot how much fun this truggy is.
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Dec 18, 2019, 11:05 AM
Registered User
Hi, i just bought the 11101 120A ESC version!
I just can't wait for it... It's my first RC truck and i hope i don't break it too soon..
Any hints you wanna give for a newbie like me?

Many thanks!
Dec 18, 2019, 05:48 PM
BisDak2
humayraykinaon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joohnn
Hi, i just bought the 11101 120A ESC version!
I just can't wait for it... It's my first RC truck and i hope i don't break it too soon..
Any hints you wanna give for a newbie like me?

Many thanks!
I extended the chassis brace because it feels like theres some flex and might cause some damage to the diff pinion. Also the upgrade drive shaft are much solid and gets rid of wheel slop unless yours comes with it. Check every screws make sure they are tight.
Last edited by humayraykinaon; Dec 18, 2019 at 09:24 PM.
Dec 19, 2019, 08:12 AM
Registered User
Do you suggest buying aluminum upgrade/spare parts?
I was thinking about a better charger, a new pack of lipos (Maybe 4s), and an upgraded servo (as i read online that tends to break easily).
But my biggest concern is that i won't be able to maintain this car appropriately, as this is my first rc model...

Thank you for you precious advices!
Dec 19, 2019, 08:48 AM
BisDak2
humayraykinaon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joohnn
Do you suggest buying aluminum upgrade/spare parts?
I was thinking about a better charger, a new pack of lipos (Maybe 4s), and an upgraded servo (as i read online that tends to break easily).
But my biggest concern is that i won't be able to maintain this car appropriately, as this is my first rc model...

Thank you for you precious advices!
I can't really say aluminum upgrade the way to go, like aluminum arms is a waste of $ to be honest one bad crash and your done. I don't bash hard so my stock servo seems to be holding up maybe if you do crazy stunts at skate park then a much better servo is the way to go. The only thing that I have done was the upgrade drive shaft cause I did the double back flip and landed the wrong way and snap the drive shaft output
Dec 19, 2019, 09:49 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by humayraykinaon
I can't really say aluminum upgrade the way to go, like aluminum arms is a waste of $ to be honest one bad crash and your done. I don't bash hard so my stock servo seems to be holding up maybe if you do crazy stunts at skate park then a much better servo is the way to go. The only thing that I have done was the upgrade drive shaft cause I did the double back flip and landed the wrong way and snap the drive shaft output
Thanks!
is the drive shaft that fragile?
I'm not planning to go for crazy bashing at skate parks nor stunts or high jumps, i'm thinking more of casual runs on pavement/grass with quite small jumps...
I'd like to reduce the wheeling to the minimum (Maybe it can be done by adjusting the wheelie bar?)
Anyway, i just bought a spare battery (5200mah 4s 35C one, which i hope it'll fit) and i'm just wondering if you can limit top speed through the remote (using dual rates), as i don't plan to get top speeds or stuff like that, i'd just like more reactivity and increase the running time.
Jan 22, 2020, 02:38 PM
Registered User

speed


Hi

Not had a problem with mine Yet! Had on Beach in Whales at top speed and was great fun.

There is no problem with speed if in an open space :-) I would say remember to slow down when cornering, they do have a tendency to roll at speed?

Most parts are easy to replace or fix.
Jan 26, 2020, 07:35 PM
Registered User
Hi new to the RC world. I;m thinking about buying the Cheetah ARTR since I already have a Flysky GT5 controller. What do people recommend in terms of the servo, motor and ESC?
https://www.banggood.com/JLB-Racing-...r_warehouse=CN

Also, what are the necessary upgrades? I was watching a video and the wheels apparently broke off after a few runs. I'm worried about this.
Jan 26, 2020, 10:57 PM
BisDak2
humayraykinaon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joohnn
Thanks!
is the drive shaft that fragile?
I'm not planning to go for crazy bashing at skate parks nor stunts or high jumps, i'm thinking more of casual runs on pavement/grass with quite small jumps...
I'd like to reduce the wheeling to the minimum (Maybe it can be done by adjusting the wheelie bar?)
Anyway, i just bought a spare battery (5200mah 4s 35C one, which i hope it'll fit) and i'm just wondering if you can limit top speed through the remote (using dual rates), as i don't plan to get top speeds or stuff like that, i'd just like more reactivity and increase the running time.
Here the difference between the two driveshaft (stock vs upgrade)
Last edited by humayraykinaon; Jan 26, 2020 at 11:22 PM.
Jan 27, 2020, 06:07 AM
bbz
bbz
Registered User
bbz's Avatar
Had a bash today
Bash session with the JLB Cheetah 21101 (3 min 41 sec)
Jan 28, 2020, 06:35 AM
Joker, smoker, midnight talker
naDah's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smint
Hi new to the RC world. I;m thinking about buying the Cheetah ARTR since I already have a Flysky GT5 controller. What do people recommend in terms of the servo, motor and ESC?
https://www.banggood.com/JLB-Racing-...r_warehouse=CN

Also, what are the necessary upgrades? I was watching a video and the wheels apparently broke off after a few runs. I'm worried about this.
JX-PDI does some great budget-friendly servos.
Jan 29, 2020, 08:12 AM
Registered User
I finally got mine a few days ago (Had troubles with the shipping), and WOW, that thing is a beast. Extremely fun to drive though.
It's so fast that it's nearly uncontrollable. .. You need a lot of space.
Anyway, one thing i noticed is that the wheels/servo tends to easily get uncalibrated and the car then tends to go a bit to left or a bit to right, so i have to stop and fix the wheels or tune trims to get the car going straight again.

Is that normal? Do i have to tighten something, like the servo link? Do you have any suggestions?
I already bought an upgraded servo (And i'm planning to swap it tonight)

Many thanks!!!

EDIT: I did replaced the servo, the above issue was related to the Servo Arm (EA1050), being ruined. I replaced it with the metal one that came with the upgrade servo, and everything went ok.
Last edited by Joohnn; Jan 30, 2020 at 08:26 AM.
Jan 30, 2020, 08:28 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by humayraykinaon
I extended the chassis brace because it feels like theres some flex and might cause some damage to the diff pinion. Also the upgrade drive shaft are much solid and gets rid of wheel slop unless yours comes with it. Check every screws make sure they are tight.
Where/how did you get the chassis brace extensions? did you crafted them by yourself?

EDIT: I also bought a spare battery (a 4s one, just to see how it goes) but it's quite bigger than the actual slot in the car, and it doesn't fit the velcro laces... I was thinking about securing it somehow with cable ties. Do you think it's gonna work?

Thanks
Jan 30, 2020, 09:27 AM
BisDak2
humayraykinaon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joohnn
Where/how did you get the chassis brace extensions? did you crafted them by yourself?

EDIT: I also bought a spare battery (a 4s one, just to see how it goes) but it's quite bigger than the actual slot in the car, and it doesn't fit the velcro laces... I was thinking about securing it somehow with cable ties. Do you think it's gonna work?

Thanks
I had this piece a while ago and thought I could put a use of it lol and it really works, I don't have that chassis flex.

when you up lipo cell, the included strap and battery tray ain't gonna cut it but that don't mean you can't find a way to mount it securely. 4s will destroy something in the moving parts when constantly on hard throttle and possibly blow your tires on high speed run. I'm still on stock servo but I adjust the trim and expo so it's not overworking too much.

Good luck and have fun with your new truggy.
Last edited by humayraykinaon; Jan 30, 2020 at 09:57 AM.


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