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Sep 14, 2016, 05:15 PM
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Eachine E010 FPV with FX 798T - extending flight time -


Eachine E010 flight time with FPV cam

I struggled with not so good flight times on my E010 + FX798T using a 205mAh battery. I did some changes and instead of reasonable until 3 minutes and another minute flying sluggish and going a few times to the ground and back up, i now reached 4 - 5 minutes ok. The cam is still in his housing. Finally getting somewhere.

Below are the things i changed to get some longer flight time.

Eachine E010 motor upgrade, things i replaced, added or changed

- Replaced the stock motors with the 14000 KV 6 x15 mm Chaoli motors from BG.

- Or you can now also use the new upgraded Chaoli motors from BG which should be around 16000 KV and more powerful. Not tested yet.

- Upgraded to the Eachine 260 mAh 30 C battery with Walkera / Losi connector. (Remove sticker and the clear shrink wrap layer from the battery)

- Cutting down the props to 2 blades. I used a small wire cutter and i used my dremel with a fine "thing" ? to sand the cut smooth.

For the Eachine 260mAh battery which is longer, i folded back the battery stop plate after making a cut on both sides. The battery can go further in (remove the sticker) and the folded part keeps the battery snug in place. I soldered wires + Losi connector to the board (leaving the stock connector in place).

Make sure if you put the 260 mAh battery in the E010 it is centered so the COG is not off. Otherwise you need to trim. If due to where the cam is placed the COG is off you can correct it by moving battery in or out so you don't need to trim to hoover it.

I also shortened the long FX798T camera / vtx wires and soldered a connector on the shortened camera power wires so i can still remove the cam.

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Regarding replacing the E010 motors

On the first E010 batches, the printed + and - board markings for both clockwise motors (red and blue wires) are reversed! So before soldering in new motors, make first a note as to where the original motor wires are soldered.

** The printed board markings for both the CCW motors (black and white wires) are correct. **

** The one i received today, ( sept. 27) has white paint over the markings so now you can mark the + and - correctly on the pcb board

** I received a few JJRC H36 (november) and on these the board markings are correct so i guess it will be the same for recent E010 batches.

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With the still cased camera and a total flying weight of 28 grams the quad feels a little heavy when flying and can struggle sometimes. It needs some weight reduction, see below in the section "Total flying weight" and "my E010 on a diet".

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Regarding the included Eachine E010 charger

I used a few times the stock charger to charge the E010 stock battery. It stops around 4.176 volts. But i did not measure the charging current until today. it seems rather high in my opinion for this small battery starting at 487 mA although these days many batteries can do a 2C charge or even more which is usually mentioned in the specs or on a battery itself.

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Edit: "It stops around 4.176 volts" should read as; As soon as the red led goes on indicating the battery is charged and then measuring voltage after disconnecting the battery, the voltage is around 4.176 volts. (On mine )

I did another check, the (my) charger itself consumes 3 mA (which is already subtracted from the measured mA). This time when the led indicated the battery was charged i left it plugged in and 2 hours later the voltage was at 4.225V ! and current flow still 1mA.

So when the charger indicates the battery is charged, unplug it like we are supposed to do and do not let charging batteries unattended . Don't let it plugged in for hours and hours because the voltage will creep up very slowly above the recommended charge levels.

The above results are for my specific stock charger and it's possible other stock chargers can differentiate due to component tolerances etc.

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Stock transmitter

Not much to say, it's tiny and precise control is a little difficult. But you can put longer sticks in place. The " FQ777-124 Pocket Drone Parts Two RC Sticks " are a direct fit. With the E010 on a level surface, bringing the right stick in down left corner resets the E010 and also sets the headless heading in the direction the quad is facing.

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E010 Motors + prop direction + current draw

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** Stock motors under load with stock E010 prop, they draw each (mine) around 800 mA at 3.5 volt (no connector on the motor wires).
** One of the stock motors with a prop cut to 2 blades, current draw down to 660 mA at 3.5 volt (no connector on the motor wires).

** Had 2 BG Chaoli motors; with stock prop, current draw around 900 mA each at 3.5 Volt (motor wires with connector on)
** The BG Chaoli motors with prop cut 2 blades, current down to around 750 mA each at 3.5 Volt (motor wires with connector on)

** E010 + BG Chaoli motors + FX798T cam, average current around 2.5 A during flight. Hooked to a power supply at 4.2V full throttle burst 2.95A and at 3.5V full throttle burst 2.45A

Note; count in the lesser current draw with cut prop, a BG Chaoli (should have more rpm on its own already ) which draws a litle more current compared to stock motor but in combo with cut prop results in the higher rpm with even a lesser current draw compared to a stock motor + stock prop.

Even when not using a cam / vtx the stock motors should benefit cutting the props down to 2 blades.


Some 6mm motor thrust tests by Nick Burns

Whoop Motors Test 2 (6mm motor thrust test) (10 min 15 sec)


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Eachine E010 + FX798T + Eachine 260mAh 30C battery

Again a max flight time check

My old scale shows my flying weight as 27 gr. sometimes 28 gr. (ordered a new one lol)

Eachine E010 FPV with FX 798T - flight time (7 min 50 sec)



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Total flying weight

September 28 modification

- I removed the cam housing but added a camera holder.

- I'm checking now a JJRC 220mAh 25C battery 5.75 gram instead of the 7gram 260mAh battery.

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Like it is in the picture above, I'm for sure satisfied the way it flies with the 220mAh battery for 4min and 4min30 max. but on the next one, to perhaps having it even more agile, each part of a gram counts, so i'm thinking on the next one to remove again the camera holder and the 2 extra screws holding it in place. And just using sticky tape and loom bands to keep cam in place.

Maybe ditching the Losi connector + wires (0.44 grams) and modify the stock battery board connector to accept the Walkera / Losi battery plug although there is the risk to plug it in backwards and burn the flight controller.



Eachine E010 FPV Chaoli motors - 220mAh battery - Devo 7E (4 min 44 sec)



The video below is the same setup but flying outside in some wind was not the best idea considering that i'm the worst fpv pilot on earth or perhaps even in the whole universe

Eachine Whoopy E010 FPV outside (5 min 15 sec)


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My E010 on a diet

Replaced the 260 mAh battery by the 220 mAh battery which is about 1.25 gram less in weight. But i had to alter the battery cage again because the JJRC 220 mAh is a little thicker.

I desoldered the pigtail with Walkera / Losi connector and modified the stock board connector to accept the battery Losi connector like mentioned by siriusflier . There is the risk to put the Losi connector in backwards and damage controller board so i carefully made the slots for accepting the Losi connector and glued in a piece of plastic with correct thickness and height to prevent from plugging it in backwards.

That works to prevent it from plugging in backwards and to check if the contacts doesn't mate during an attempt going in under an angle, i hooked up my DVM and they didn't mate during different attempts so on mine all is fine .

Because of that piece of plastic now glued in the board connector , the stock battery can not be used anymore.

*** WARNING*** To prevent backwards connection the extra cut outs in the stock connector to accept the Losi plug needs to be precise! And although if you glue in a piece of plastic with correct thickness, do not try to connect the battery the wrong way!! If the contacts are able to briefly meet it can damage the flight control board! If you want to test use a Losi pigtail cable without anything connected to it!

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Ditching the pigtail with Losi connector gained 0.44 gram less weight So total flying weight with 220mAh battery is for now 26 gram and i also gained 20 sec. extra flying time

Afterwards i also removed the printed cam holder and i put sticky tape in place. Weight without battery is 19.75 gram and with 220 mAh battery 25.51 gram. It gains another 15 sec flight time lol for a total of 5:15 min till LVC with 220 mAh battery.

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Link to the Eachine E010 parts / replacements

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Boldclash motors 6 x 15 advertised as 18000 KV

Got some Boldclash motors in which are advertised as 18000KV. Mounted in the quad (NO CAM) and with full throttle burst they pull 4.6 Amps at 4.0V battery voltage using 4 bladed props. With stock battery, 3 a 3:20 minutes flying time and 5+ minutes with Eachine 260mAh 30C battery.

Props cut to 2 blades; throttle burst 4.1 Amps at 4 volt and flying time is 3:45 a 4 minutes on stock battery and 6 minutes with Eachine 260mAh 30C


Eachine E010 / JJRC H36 with Boldclash motors (3 min 45 sec)



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Another strong competitor, the Furibee F36 see my blog https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...010-H36-killer
Last edited by Alias_Hendrik; Jan 03, 2017 at 04:40 AM.
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Sep 14, 2016, 05:19 PM
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Current draw FX798T / Boldclash F-01 / F-02 / King Kong Q25 mini


FX798T AIO decased with clover antenna at 3.9 gram

Boldclash F-01 with whip antenna at 3.45 gram
The Boldclash F-01 gets really warm / hot compared to my FX798T.


Boldclash F-02 with whip antenna at 4.56 gram and with metal shield removed 4.08 gram.
My F-02 is less hot compared to the F-01

King Kong Q25 mini 6.38 gram.
The 2 values for the KingKong Q25 mini are due to the leds flashing on or off.



I did some measurements regarding current draw. The results for what it is worth..



Note; Values are measured after min. 3 minutes and with lens cap removed and antennas pointing up.
I checked my second Boldclash F-02 and it's about the same as my first one just a few mA higher.

The values from the Eachine EF-01 are from the video linked below.


I saw a video someone measured a FX798T and a Eachine EF-01. His FX 798T draws less current but it can be due to a few things, the device is a little off or my Fluke meters are off lol.

The Eachine EF 01 and Boldclash both need more current compared to the FX798T. The Eachine EF 01 shows a better picture quality but is also more heavier. Here is his video.
Last edited by Alias_Hendrik; Jan 02, 2017 at 05:47 PM.
Sep 14, 2016, 06:59 PM
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Thanks for all your excellent research Alias_Hendrik, very good work and much appreciated
Sep 14, 2016, 07:10 PM
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Thread OP
Thanks i will do some different motors comparing too in future.
Sep 15, 2016, 12:20 AM
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Durete's Avatar
Good Job Alias!
Sep 15, 2016, 01:42 AM
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Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Durete
Good Job Alias!
Whow Durete Man i missed you lol good to hear you again !
Sep 15, 2016, 03:36 AM
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Durete's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alias_Hendrik
Whow Durete Man i missed you lol good to hear you again !
Yeah!
I'm returning slowly here.
I started some months ago with FPV racing, and I'm very involved founding a National FPV Racing association
I have very little free time
Sep 15, 2016, 05:03 PM
Cheap-FVP on YouTube
This is awesome! Great job man!
Sep 15, 2016, 05:34 PM
Registered User
How does the mylipo 205mah compare in performance and flight time? Is the 260mah sluggish?
Sep 16, 2016, 06:56 AM
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@ Sylar125

Thanks!

@ d4j0n

Have to search in my notes or in the E010 thread for the Mylipo for which i have a connector soldered on to my red E010. The last few days i was busy with my green E010. In the E010 thread i do know i have some posts regarding the mylipo on my red E010. That's why i have my blog, my memory is getting old and in my blog i find my own observations in one spot

Both MINE, red and green E010's had problems carrying the FX798T even after when i had put the Chaoli motors in the green one although it was a hair better while it was fine for other people on stock motors and stock batteries. That's why i started to change things on my green one as test object
With the BG Chaoli motors, 2 blade props, carrying a powered on FX798T still in his casing, it does well with the 260 mAh battery till 5 minutes flight max. I can still fly until 6 minutes and some but with way less power (see the video). i just received a bunch of different batteries with different connectors which i'm gonna check out in the future.

I added a video (max flight time i could push out) to my first post.
Sep 16, 2016, 07:40 AM
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So is there some info of the pros/cons of the 4 vs 2-bladed props? It seems 2 bladed lasts longer, but does this come at some price like less punch or so?
Sep 16, 2016, 02:01 PM
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I'm sure there is a lot of info on Google regarding 2 vs. 3 or 4 blades props. I would have thought cutting the props to 2 blades it actually needed a wider diam. prop to provide the same trust. Visually it seems to lift it better with props cut. Someone should do a short trust test with a 1000 mAh battery or so with the 4 bladed and with props cut.

The only thing i can think of why cut to 2 blades and still 30 mm length seems better is that some of the stock motors are just a tad too week for the 4 bladed props WHEN a cam is added. With only 2 blades the motors can reach a higher rpm and in combination with some stronger motors gives apparently a few grams extra trust and longer flight time like the video shows in post 1. You can try it too to cut 2 blades from each prop, you still have your spare props. Be aware, with props cut the rpm sounds higher / louder
Sep 16, 2016, 05:13 PM
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Yeah, I'm mostly interested in E010 2 vs 4 blade prop properties, not so much general prop blade discussion. I just put the same cobbled together FPV system (~5g) that made a minimum weight H101 stay very agile on my pusher prop E010 and have to say the performance is pretty underwhelming (flying ok for maybe a minute). Guess the suggested mods are in order (props, chaolis, 260mAh battery). Luckily I have all of those parts here.

/edit: Here's a post on what I'm looking at: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=746 Didn't want to hijack this thread.
Last edited by skohlbr; Sep 16, 2016 at 05:34 PM.
Sep 18, 2016, 11:34 AM
Jayodas
jayodas's Avatar
This is very interesting data Alias! I use a FX758-2 VTx for all my brushed micro FPV flying and I've always powered it with 4v from an adjustable Pololu vreg so that it doesn't get too hot.

The data from your measurements here lead me to believe that powering it with 5v might result in less current draw, which means
I should get longer flight time from my FPV quad.

What do you think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alias_Hendrik
About my FX 798T

I did some measurements regarding current draw.

I used a variable power supply to check my FX798T with my 2 rather old Fluke meters. The results for what it is worth..

5.0 V / 202 mA
4.2 V / 244 mA
4.0 V / 255 mA
3.9 V / 264 mA
3.8 V / 270 mA
3.7 V / 280 mA
3.6 V / 290 mA
3.4 V / 308 mA

If my second FX 798T arrives i will compare them. I saw a video someone measuring it too. His FX 798T draws less current but it can be due to a few things, the device is a little off or my Fluke meters are off lol. Or the antenna matching differs causing perhaps more current flow on mine due to impedance mismatch who knows.

What is clear in the video, the Eachine EF 01 needs more current probably because it has a little more output power. The EF 01 shows a better picture quality but is also more heavier. I still stick with a FX798T mainly because of the lesser current draw and weight. Here is his video.
Sep 18, 2016, 04:14 PM
Registered User
How much time do you get with eachine motors and this modification( battery 260mah, cut 2 blade and vtx-cam)?? Differences with chaoli motors?


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