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Aug 28, 2016, 11:02 AM
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E-flite 1.2M Spitfire Reference Source


The primary thread on the E-flite 1.2M Spitfire can be found HERE.

EDIT: 09 September 2019
I've been working for some time now on programming the AR636 Rx using Spektrum's SPS SW and flightengr's SMB program. Rather than using a countering THR>ELE mix, I've been able to program out the stock THR>ELE mix and make some changes I feel beneficial to flying the Spitfire. You will be able to find the changes in my SRM file posted HERE, POST # 30..

EDIT: 22 Jun 2019
I created a new SRM file that removes the THR>ELE mix found in the stock 1.2M Spitfire's AR636A Rx. My POST # 30 here "E-Flite 1.2M Spitfire SRM file without THR to ELE mix" has the file attached for those wishing to try it.


EDIT: 24 Aug 2017
I just revised POSTS 1 & 2 to reflect my MIX orders since I have also reversed the SAFE SELECT mode switch from the defaults.
If you notice any discrepancies, please PM me so I can correct them.

EDIT: 19 June 2017
The default picture format created by the Spektrum Tx is a BMP file. I recently converted them to JPG files so they can be seen directly on the thread without having to open them separately in a photo viewer or editor program.

EDIT: 4/1/2017 revision
I recently upgraded my ESC to 60 amps. That allowed me to move the battery forward and also add more weight to the front end. I can now move the battery so that the CG is 78mm, the published value. My usual flight CG was 85mm. The 78m CG REDUCES the need for the mixes, but does not eliminate the need entirely. The plane still pitches up, but not as much with more throttle. Accordingly the values have come down, since not as much down elevator is needed. If you decide to use these mixes, test first and adjust as needed. If the plane pitches down in a mix, reduce the values appropriately. If the plane pitches up, increase the values. But be sure you can turn the mixes OFF if you need to.

I find a neutral CG at 85mm for the best glide, at zero throttle. As THR is increased, a mix is necessary to keep the nose from pitching up. If I fly at a CG of 78mm, the nose is heavy at zero THR, but less mix is required to keep the nose down at full throttle. So it's best to pick your flying style for the day, move the batt for the CG required, and use the appropriate mix values for that CG. If you do a lot of inverted flying, you may want a more aft CG so there will be less down elevator (forward ELE stick) required to maintain level flight.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS:
POST 1 - CURVE mixes
POST 2 - Link to Alternative NORMAL Mix versus a CURVE Mix
POST 3 - Link to Wheels, Retractable LG, adjusting a wobbly wheel, binding retracts
POST 4 - Link to BL Motor
POST 5 - Link to 1.2M Spitfire prop adapter
POST 6 - Link to Rates & Setup
POST 7 - Link to Binding with SAFE always ON or OFF; or Assigning a switch for SAFE SELECT ON/OFF
POST 8 - Link to E-flite 1.2M Spitfire Parts
POST 9 - Link to Static prop data
POST 10 - Link to Alternative 60A Electronic Speed Control MOD
POST 11 - Link to Fixing/Adjusting the worm drive mechanism on retractable LG
POST 12 - Link to Strange values on ELE as seen on Monitor
POST 13 - Link to Rudder repair/reinforcement
POST 14 - Link to Flight videos
POST 15 - Link to DX6i setup for SAFE SELECT ON/OFF using the FLAPS Switch
POST 20 - Link to Setting CG
POST 21 - Link to Removing & replacing the Radiator covers
POST 27 - Link to Motor cooling mod, propeller backplate holes Probably the best and most important MOD I have done to my Spitfire.
POST 28 - Link to 7 ways to reverse a servo
POST 29 - Link to Programming the AR636 in the Spitfire.
POST 30 - Link to E-Flite 1.2M Spitfire SRM file without THR to ELE mix.



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SAFE SELECT/MIX SELECT USING DIFFERENT SWITCHES - IMPORTANT! - Originally I suggested anyone wanting to try my mixes should put them on a separate switch from the SAFE SELECT mode switch until they are comfortable using the mixes. I can tell from experience that a beginner will most likely get confused with the switchology, and possibly crash their plane. My best advice is to be sure you (or your instructor) know how to fly your bird safely with NO MIXes involved. You may need to fly at a reduced THR setting to avoid having the A/C pitch up. Once you are comfortable flying with NO MIXes, you can put these MIXes on your SAFE SELECT mode switch and try the mixes with a finger ready to flip the SAFE SELECT mode switch to SAFE ON or OFF, but with NO MIXES active.

POST 1 deals with CURVE mixes. Older Txs cannot do CURVE mixes. If your Tx can NOT DO CURVE mixes, you should skip the MIX section of POST 1 & go directly to POST 2 for NORMAL mixes. Continue to read the other sections below of POST 1 before going to POST 2.

POST 2 (Link) deals with NORMAL mixes. These are available on older Txs and newer ones as well.

NOTE: Only use 1 or the other, CURVE or NORMAL mixes, not both at the same time.
POST #1 only deals with CURVE mixes.
POST #2 only deals with NORMAL mixes.

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DISCUSSION


PRIMARY ASSUMPTIONS: Some of this thread assumes you will want to enable the select option of SAFE SELECT, i.e. you will enable the ON/OFF capability and assign SAFE SELECT to a switch. It also assumes you have the manual and can bind your Rx to your Tx for the SAFE SELECT ON/OFF or the always ON or always OFF modes. Hopefully you find the appropriate sections helpful to whichever mode you chose to operate your Rx.

This thread deals with the E-flite 1.2M Mk XIV Spitfire. It uses the AR636A SAFE (Sensor Assisted Flight Envelope) Select Rx. Unlike the Apprentice SAFE Rx, the SAFE SELECT (SS) AR636A Rx only has 2 modes, SAFE ON or SAFE OFF. There is no Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced or Panic mode. However the SAFE ON mode is roughly equivalent to the Apprentice SAFE intermediate mode in terms of the pitch and roll angle limits. However with SAFE OFF you will still have AS3X active. With SAFE OFF there are no pitch and roll angle limits.

I've incorporated mixes in my E-flite 1.2M Spitfire in order to neutralize the THR > ELE coupling in the AR636A SAFE SELECT Rx in the SAFE ON mode. That coupling causes the plane to pitch-up as THR is increased. Although the THR>ELE programming is not present when in the AS3X-ONLY mode, my Spitfire still pitches up with increased throttle, but not quite as much as when in the SAFE ON mode.

My goal was to fly my Spitfire consistently without having to use trim for it to fly straight and level across the entire throttle range. I feel I have pretty much achieved that goal and am very happy with the mixes, both with SAFE SELECT ON or SAFE SELECT OFF (AS3X-ONLY) mode. There may be some adjustments in the future. Check back for updates.

I originally posted a CURVE MIX in POST 1078 found here in the "E-flite Spitfire MK XIV 1.2m BNF Basic" thread. It is a CURVE Mix designed to neutralize the tendency of the AR636A SAFE Select Rx to pitch-up the Spitfire as the throttle is increased. The AR636A is found in the E-flite 1.2M Spitfire and others. The only plane I fly with the AR636A Rx is my 1.2M Spitfire. I cannot relate how my mixes will affect other planes with the AR636A Rx.

FEATURES:
The SAFE Rxs may have 1 or 2 features enabled with them. The 2 features are AS3X (Artificial Stabilization – 3-aXis) and AUTO-LEVEL. The AR636A in the 1.2M Spitfire BNF version, comes with both features.

1) AUTO-LEVEL feature:
The AUTO-LEVEL feature of the AR636A is what we normally are referring to when we say SAFE is ON. SAFE ON = auto-level. SAFE OFF = AS3X only during flight. For this discussion, we when we use the term SAFE ON, it refers to the AUTO-LEVEL being ON. You can enable the SAFE feature, or not, depending on how you bind the Rx to your Tx.

NOTE: Neither SAFE nor AS3X are active on replacement stock retail AR636s. But they can be programmed to be active with the separately purchased programming cable and Spektrum software.

2) AS3X (Artificial Stabilization – 3-aXis) feature:
The AS3X feature of the AR636 Rx is a rate gyro feature that is enabled on all BNF SAFE Rxs, including the AR636A. AS3X counters uncommanded inputs such as wind. It is not active until the THR has been moved above 25% after the plane has been powered up.

SAFE ON; SAFE OFF:
Originally I thought I would only need a mix with SAFE SELECT ON, but it was apparent that a SAFE SELECT OFF mix was also needed to neutralize the tendency of the plane to climb as throttle is increased. The AS3X does not show the THR>ELE programming seen with the SAFE programming in the AR636A. The programming is partially responsible for inducing the pitch-up effect. The 2 separate CURVE MIXES below are my SAFE SELECT ON & SAFE SELECT OFF CURVE mixes to counter the pitch-up effect inflight.

WIND & AIR DENSITY:
When I flew today, 23 Nov 2016, I found the windy day values did better than the no wind values. There was almost no wind today. I have TWO SAFE ON mixes & TWO SAFE OFF mixes. Rather than adjust MIXes 1 & 2 whenever the temps (air density) or wind require it, I enable MIXes 3 & 4 and disable MIXes 1 & 2. MIXes 3 & 4 have higher values with more pitch down. It's easier to switch to them than to readjust MIXes 1 & 2. I suspect that air density is the main factor affecting how the internal THR>ELE mix of the AR636A affects the flight performance of the Spitfire.

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CG ADJUSTMENT & MOTOR THRUST


The pitch-up with added throttle in the AS3X-ONLY mode indicates the plane needs nose weight and/or more down-thrust to the motor in order to fly straight and level with all throttle settings. Another fix to prevent the pitch-up is to trim the elevator with down trim. Some Spitfire owners are happy with the results and fly just fine with some down ELE dialed in mechanically. However for me, down trim interferes with takeoffs, requiring more elevator input than I prefer. I also prefer not to add dead weight to my planes, so adding lead to the nose would be a last resort. Adding down-thrust would alter the spinner to cowl gap, so that is not an option for me either.

Another possibility for the pitch up with added thrust, could be the aircraft's decalage. But changing the wing's AOA or the horizontal stabilizer's (small wing) AOA is not something I would want to try.

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SAFE SELECT VALUES

Below are the default values for a 3-position and 2-position switch.

*WARNING*: My SAFE SELECT mode switch positions are reversed from the default positions. My SAFE SELECT mode switch positions "0" & "1" = SAFE OFF and switch position "2" = SAFE ON.

DEFAULT VALUES:
(+)100% = SAFE ON (changeover +47% = SS OFF; +48% = SS ON) See *Note 1 below
-------0% = SAFE OFF
(-)100% = SAFE OFF

On a 3-position switch
Default position "0" = SAFE ON
Default position "1"= SAFE OFF
Default position "2"= SAFE OFF

On a 2-position switch
Default position "0" = SAFE ON
Default position "1"= SAFE OFF

REVERSING SWITCH POSITIONS WITH THE DIGITAL SWITCH MENU:
If your Tx supports it, you can alter the SS ON/OFF positions using the "DIGITAL SWITCH" menu by swapping the switch position values for positions "0" and "2". This is what I have done IOT have
SS switch position 0 = SAFE OFF, no mixes,
(switch value -100%)
SS switch position 1 = SAFE OFF with a mix, (switch value 0%) and
SS switch position 2 = SAFE ON with a mix. (switch value +100%)

You can also reverse the channel/switch using the "REVERSE" setting in the "SERVO" menu. But it will not change the value of the center position on a 3-position switch. If you want the center switch position to be SS OFF, you may have to decrease that value. The exact value that turns SS ON on my DX6i was +48%. If you want SAFE to be OFF, you may have to decrease it to about +47 or below? But it may be different on different Txs? (* See Note 1 below) You may not want to use this technique though if the switch is doing double duty for flaps or LG.

Although this mix description is long and may seem complicated, most of it is formats for the mixes. If they are too hard to follow, look at the pictures first down below.

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SETTING UP YOUR SAFE SELECT MODE SWITCH

SAFE SELECT/MIX SELECT COMBO SWITCH - My Tx is a Gen1 DX18. I recommend setting your SS switch on a 3-position switch if possible for
(A.) SS OFF w/no mix,
(B.) SS OFF w/a mix active and
(C.) SS ON w/a mix active.

IMPORTANT: By selecting either positions 0, 1, or 2 on my SAFE SELECT mode switch, I am not only selecting SAFE SELECT ON or OFF, I am also selecting mixes that are tied to the SS MODE switch. My SS mode switch selects
NO MIX (only AS3X is enabled, switch position 0),
MIX 1 (SAFE OFF position 1), or
MIX 2 (SAFE ON position 2).

SAFE SELECT SWITCH/AUX2 - your switch of choice. The SAFE SELECT channel is AUX2 and I have assigned AUX2 to a 3-position switch. To make that assignment, go to SYSTEM SETUP > Channel Assign > Rx Port Assignments> NEXT > Channel Input Config menu. Assign Aux2 to your switch by highlighting the space to the right of Aux2:. Once it is blinking, flip the switch you wish to use, or scroll to it. Once you have the switch you want blinking on the menu, press the roller bar so it is not blinking, and back out of the menu. To be sure, you may want to turn your Tx OFF before continuing. A power cycle seems to help retain new settings sometimes.

CONFIRMATION - To confirm your choice, go to the Servo Setup > "TRAVEL" menu. On the monitor part of that screen (left side) watch the values change as you flip your assigned switch. The AUX2 value should show +100%, 0% (zero), or -100% for the positions you have chosen as you flip your assigned switch. That equals SAFE ON (+100%), SAFE OFF (0%) and SAFE OFF (-100%) respectively. It will be the reverse of those values if you have reversed the values as I have done using the DIGITAL SWITCH setup.

Other Txs should display something similar on the equivalent screens.

MONITOR VALUES:
The monitor values may not be the same as the values you have set for each switch. They change depending on the TRAVEL VALUES you have set under the TRAVEL menu. It's under the SERVO SETUP menu. When using 150% for a control surface, the monitor values will be 1.5 times the control surface values you have set on the HIGH & LOW rates you have for each surface. If you use 100% for the values, they should be the same as your values in the HIGH & LOW rates set for each control surface.

I find the Spitfire to be one of my best flying planes, ever. I love the looks and the way it flies. The retractable landing gear are tough. I have had a few prangs but a little adjustment to the strut has worked fine to fix them so far. Below are some mix settings I have used. Your plane may fly better under different settings than mine so you should adjust them as you feel the need.

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CURVE mixes

My mixes are on a 3-position switch. The positions below and on my Tx are reversed from the Tx default positions.

Switch Position "0" = SAFE OFF & ALL MIXES OFF.
Only AS3X is active in switch position "0". (VALUE = -100%)

Switch Position "1" = SAFE OFF with Mix 1 (or 3) active. (VALUE = 0%)

Switch Position "2" = SAFE ON with Mix 2 (or 4) active. (VALUE = +100%)

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This Mix is for flying with SAFE SELECT OFF.

SAFE SELECT OFF

SAFE OFF CURVE, MIX1 (or MIX3) is active

THR > ELE
EXPO & Trim: Inh
Switch: your choice; mine is switch "G", my SAFE SELECT switch, position "1" is blacked out.

ADDING POINTS TO A CURVE MIX: To add more points on the curve, you go to the last point and move the throttle stick. At the bottom of the screen a note to "Add PT" or "Remove PT" will show up. Go down to that and click on it. After each ADD, move the throttle again and more commands to ADD or REMOVE will come up. Go ahead and add all of them at once or as many as you need and then set the value you want for each. The Tx will calculate a smooth curve for the previous point values as you add them so all you have to do is set the last one and then change the previous ones to your desired values.


-MIX1 ---- or ----MIX3
cool days-- -hot humid days--- -- Low Wind 70degrees - - - High Wind 65 degrees- - High Wind 50 degrees

1 +25% -- ----------2% ---------- ------------- 10% ------------- -------------- 5% ------------- ----------- 20% ------------
2 +25% -- ----------4% ---------- ------------- 10% ------------- -------------- 9% ------------- ----------- 24% ------------
3 +26% -- ----------6% ---------- ------------- 10% ------------- ------------- 15% ------------ ----------- 27% ------------
4 +26% -- ----------8% ---------- ------------- 12% ------------- ------------- 19% ------------ ----------- 30% ------------
5 +26% -- ---------10% ---------- ------------ 16% -------------- ------------- 20% ------------ ---------- 33% ------------
6 +27% -- ---------12% ---------- ------------ 17% -------------- ------------- 27% ------------ ---------- 37% ------------
7 +27% -- ---------12% ---------- ------------ 17% -------------- ------------- 30% ------------ ---------- 46% ------------
Switch Position (little boxes at bottom) "1" is blacked out, positions "0" & "2" are light

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This Mix is for flying the Spitfire with SAFE SELECT ON.

SAFE SELECT ON

SAFE ON CURVE MIX2 (or MIX4) is active

THR > ELE
EXPO & Trim: Inh
Switch: your choice; mine is switch "G", my SAFE SELECT switch, position "2" is blacked out.

-MIX2 ---- or -----MIX4------
cool days-- -- hot humid days- -Low Wind 70degrees -- High Wind 65 degrees- - High Wind 50 degrees
1 +11% ---- -------- 0% ---------- ------------ 0% ------------ -------------- 5% ---------- -------------- 7% ----------
2 +11% ---- -------- 1% ---------- ------------ 1% ------------ -------------- 8% ---------- ------------- 12% ----------
3 +18% ---- -------- 3% ---------- ------------ 3% ------------ ------------- 14% ---------- ------------- 20% ----------
4 +27% ---- -------- 4% ---------- ------------ 4% ------------ ------------- 24% ---------- ------------- 34% ----------
5 +37% ---- -------- 5% ---------- ------------ 7% ------------ ------------- 35% ---------- ------------- 49% ----------
6 +43% ---- -------- 5% ---------- ------------ 9% ------------ ------------- 44% ---------- ------------- 51% ----------
7 +49% ---- -------- 5% ---------- ----------- 10% ----------- ------------- 53% ---------- ------------- 55% ----------
Switch Positions (little boxes at bottom) "2" is blacked out, positions "0" & "1" are light

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*Note 1: Each Tx may have different CHANGEOVER values for SAFE SELECT ON/OFF. On my DX6i it was +47% = SS OFF and 48% = SS ON.
Last edited by hifinsword; Sep 09, 2019 at 11:24 AM.
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Aug 28, 2016, 11:11 AM
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Thread OP

Alternative NORMAL Mix versus a CURVE Mix


EDIT: 24 Aug 2017 I just revised POSTS 1 & 2 to reflect my MIX orders since I have also reversed the SAFE SELECT mode switch from the defaults. If you notice any discrepancies, please PM me so I can correct them.

EDIT: 19 June 2017 The pictures are taken on the Spektrum Tx as BMP files. I recently converted them to JPG files so they can be seen directly on the thread without having to open them separately.

EDIT: 26 Dec 2016 - Revised NORMAL MIXes

THESE NORMAL MIXes are for Txs that cannot do CURVE MIXes. Or if your Tx can do both, you can select which type of mix you want to use.

Below are 4 NORMAL mixes.

Two of these Mixes are for flying the Spitfire with SAFE SELECT ON.
The other 2 Mixes are for flying with SAFE SELECT OFF.


The 2 CURVE mixes in POST #1 above do what it takes these 4 NORMAL mixes to do. I will continue to refine these NORMAL MIXes. Many older Spektrum Txs like the DX6i do not do CURVE mixes, only NORMAL mixes.

These SAFE OFF NORMAL MIXES below can be substituted for my SAFE OFF CURVE MIX (SAFE SELECT OFF) in POST #1 above.

The second set of SAFE ON NORMAL MIXES below can be substituted for my second CURVE MIX (SAFE SELECT ON) above in POST #1.

CAUTIONS:
1. These 4 MIXes should be used TOGETHER in pairs.
Two of these MIXes work on the HIGH end of the THROTTLE range & 2 work on the LOW end of the THROTTLE range with SAFE SELECT ON & OFF. They work together with an overlap in the mid-range.

2. Do not use the "ON" selection for the SWITCH setting. That will make the 4 mixes ON all the time, EVEN WHEN THE MIX IS NOT IN THE MODE FOR WHICH IT WAS DESIGNED.

SAFE SELECT MODE SWITCH SELECTION:
SAFE SELECT MODE - I use a 3-position switch for my SAFE SELECT MODES. I also use the same switch for these 4 mixes. See my POST #1 above if you're not sure how to assign switches. Position "0" is SAFE OFF with no mixes active. Position "1" is SAFE OFF with 2 NORMAL mixes active. Position "2" is SAFE ON with 2 NORMAL mixes active.

IMPORTANT: These MIXes are reversed from the DEFAULT POSITIONS you initially have on your Tx, unless you chose to reverse the positions as I have on my TX! See POST 1 above on the 2 ways that can be done.

RECOMMEDATION: I highly recommend using the same switch for these mixes as you are using for your SAFE SELECT switch. It will simplify things greatly! But as I recommended in POST 1, be sure you (or your instructor) can fly the plane with SAFE ON or OFF, but with no mixes enabled BEFORE enabling these mixes. Be sure you can switch to a SAFE SELECT ON or OFF mode, but with no mixes active.

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SAFE SELECT OFF

NORMAL Mixes




SAFE OFF MIX5 (LO range THR, SAFE SELECT OFF)
THR > ELE
Rate: 19%; 0%
Offset: -100
Trim: Inh
Switch: Do not use "ON". Use a SWITCH of your choice. Your SWITCH should be the same switch for both of these SAFE OFF MIXes. It could/SHOULD be your SAFE SELECT MODE switch. The same box at the bottom of the mix should be darkened for the switch position you use for these MIXes. They should NOT be the same boxes that are darkened for the SAFE ON MIXES above. ONLY USE WITH SAFE SELECT OFF.


---------------- ALSO USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH THIS MIX IS THE FOLLOWING MIX ---------------



SAFE OFF MIX6 (HI range THR, SAFE SELECT OFF)
THR > ELE
Rate: -12%; -20%
Offset: +2%
Trim: Inh
Switch: Do not use "ON". Use a SWITCH of your choice. Your SWITCH should be the same switch for both of these SAFE OFF MIXes. It could be your SAFE SELECT MODE switch. The same box at the bottom of the mix should be darkened for the switch position you use for these SAFE OFF MIXes. They should NOT be the same boxes that are darkened for the SAFE ON MIXes above. ONLY USE WITH SAFE SELECT OFF.


SAFE OFF MIXes 5 & 6 - Box "1" is darkened with boxes "0" & "2" lightened.



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SAFE SELECT ON

NORMAL Mixes



SAFE ON MIX7 (LO range THR, SAFE SELECT ON)
THR > ELE
Rate: +21%; 0%
Offset: -91%
Trim: Inh
Switch: Do not use "ON". Use a SWITCH of your choice. Your SWITCH should be the same switch for both SAFE ON MIXes. It could be your SAFE SELECT MODE switch. The same box at the bottom of the mix should be darkened for the switch position you use for SAFE ON MIXes. They should NOT be the same boxes that are darkened for the SAFE OFF MIXes below. ONLY USE WITH SAFE SELECT ON.


---------------- ALSO USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH THIS MIX IS THE FOLLOWING MIX ---------------



SAFE ON MIX8 (HI range THR, SAFE SELECT ON)
THR > ELE
Rate: 0%; -9%
Offset: +51%
Trim: Inh
Switch: Do not use "ON". Use a SWITCH of your choice. Your SWITCH should be the same switch for both of these SAFE ON MIXes. It could/SHOULD be your SAFE SELECT MODE switch. The same box at the bottom of the mix should be darkened for the switch position you use for both of these SAFE ON MIXes. They should NOT be the same boxes that are darkened for the SAFE OFF MIXes above. ONLY USE WITH SAFE SELECT ON.



SAFE ON MIXes 7 & 8 - Box "2" is darkened with boxes "0" & "1" lightened.


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Since I was seeing a nose-up tendency throughout the mid-range, I decided to make the offset overlap. The overlap corrects in the MID-range. Otherwise I could not get the nose down on either MIX until I hit the numbers you see above. Because of the overlap, there are many values of NORMAL MIXes that may work other than these. Feel free to post your values if you find they work better than mine.

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This is the background for my MIXes. It was POST 1085 in the 1.2M Spitfire thread found here.
Last edited by hifinsword; Sep 12, 2017 at 06:55 PM.
Aug 30, 2016, 11:58 AM
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Thread OP

Wheels, Retractable LG, adjusting a wobbly wheel, binding retracts


These parts are listed as parts at HorizonHobby.com under "Parts and Accessories" for the 1.2M Mk XIV Spitfire.

E-flite Retractable Main LG - Part # EFLG1590M
The main landing gear E-retract unit is listed HERE as a 15 size, 90 degree main for $26.69 at HorizonHobby.com. It comes with the 4 mounting screws & 2 strut mounting grub screws.

Mounting hole dimensions are 24.5mm across side to side, and 27.5 ~ 28mm front to back holes. Top plate dimensions are 35.25mm front to back, 32.75mm side to side & 26mm deep. Total length from axle to where strut enters retract is 96mm. Retract total length is 66mm.

Wheel Set: Spitfire Mk XIV 1.2m - Part # EFL8611
This set of wheels are listed HERE for $9.99 at HorizonHobby.com. They come with the 3 associated C-clips.
Dimensions:Main Wheels = 2-3/4 (2.75) inches (70mm) diameter; 7/8ths (0.875) inches (23mm) wide

Landing Gear Parts: Spitfire Mk XIV 1.2m - EFL8610
The main strut with its associated plastic covers and hardware are listed HERE for $23.39 at HorizonHobby.com. It also includes the tailwheel strut with its associated bellcrank and fastening hardware. No wheels are included.

Strut = 3.5mm

Main Wheel Axles = 3.5mm

E-Clip holding Main Wheels on = 3mm or 1/8th inch

Tail Wheel Axle = 2.0mm

C-clip holding Tail Wheel on = ?

Trunnion = metal

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WOBBLY RETRACTS:
If you find your struts are wobbly or crooked, follow the procedure "treys1" posted here in POST 1128 and more details here in POST 1135. Pull the entire assembly and loosen the set screws - two per strut, one on each side of each
strut.
Those set screws take a 1.5mm Allen or hex wrench.

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BINDING RETRACTS SUMMARY: I've found 6 reasons why the retracts bind. A 7th one is included that I induced all by myself.

1. Something is not aligned inside the retract unit. It could be the guide on the jackscrew in the sideplate of the retract is not seated in its groove. Or the control board is misaligned and not seated properly in the groove of the sideplate. Usually this is due a hard landing or not getting things properly realigned when reassembling.

2. A cracked sideplate on the retract unit or a loose screws holding the sideplates together could also allow a misalignment.

3. A burr or splinter on the trunnion has rubbed the control board raw where the trunnion rotates. Picture 13 in my BLOG POST 11 HERE shows that condition.

4. The strut is hitting a corner of the retract housing as it rotates. You can file or sand down the offending corner to remove the resistance. The 1st picture below shows where I rounded off the inside corner of the mounting plate next to where the trunnion travels on my retract to fix this.

5. The wheel strut cover is hitting the retract cover as it deploys or retracts. You can cut or remove part of either cover to fix this.

6. The entire strut/wheel assembly is misaligned in the trunnion causing it to bind. See the BINDING RETRACTS steps below to fix this cause.

7. I also induced a bind condition by adding a heavy grease to the jackscrew. I ended up removing it and using a non-greasy product called Tri-Flow.


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HOW TO FIX CAUSE #6, BINDING RETRACTS:
Removing the strut and straightening them with some pliers will also help if they are binding and stopping the retraction or extension. The bend may not be visible but enough to stop full extension or retraction.

STEP 1 - Put retracts in retracted position.

STEP 2 - Unscrew the 2 small screws holding the cover plate to the wing. See Pictures 1 & 2 below.

STEP 3 - Unscrew the 4 panhead screws from the corner of the trunnion assembly. It's much easier to get to them if the retracts are retracted.

STEP 4 - Check the 4 small flathead screws on the retract face. Tighten if they are loose. Loose screws here can allow the retract screw or other internal parts to get out of alignment and cause binding.

NOTE(optional): At this point you can either leave the retracts retracted or extend them. It may be easier to work on the strut with the gear extended.

STEP 5 - Do a normal power up and extend the retracts. Or use a servo tester if more convenient.

STEP 6 - Use a 1.5mm Allen (hex head) wrench to loosen the 2 set (grub) screws holding the strut. There is one on each side of each strut assembly.

STEP 7 - Remove the strut and bend with pliers to adjust in the direction needing it. Once adjusted put the strut back in and tighten the 2 grub screws.

STEP 8 - Put the assembly back, replacing the 4 corner panhead screws.

STEP 9 - Do a normal power up.

STEP 10 - Extend and retract the LG for smoothness and no binding.

STEP 11 - Place the LG cover plate back on the wing over the LG assembly.

NOTE: If the retracts are pushed in all the way, you may get some binding or interference when they retract at the cover plate. There was a loud pop as they extended. It was the strut coil section pulling up edge of the retract cover panel on one side.
I had to slightly remove the edge of the plastic strut cover plates to keep them from interfering with the retract cover plate.
After doing that and replacing everything, I tested it. After the trimming, they worked fine.

I tried putting one and two washers under the front and then the back of the assembly before putting in the screws that hold the assembly on the wing, IOT see if it had any effect on the smoothness of the retracts. But they were noisier, and moved in a jerky motion. And the covers sat off from the wing surface a little more. So I left them off.

When I was taking the retract assembly out, I noticed the rear screws were not fully screwed down. I imagine it could be a factory setting to tilt the wheels forward slightly, but I prefer the screws in my planes to be tight. Maybe they were just loose and needed to be tightened? Some of the screws on the face of the retract mechanism were also slightly loose and needed tightening.

The axle is 3.5mm or 9/64" in diameter. So is the strut. The clip may be 1/8" or 3mm depending on which measurements they go by. The flathead self-threading screws with a coarse thread, hold the strut covers, the retract assembly cover and the retract assembly face screws together. They are 2mm (5/64") x 8mm screws, including the head. The 4 panhead screws that hold the retract assembly to the wing are 2.6mm (7/64" or 2.5mm?) x 10mm excluding the head.
Last edited by hifinsword; Nov 11, 2017 at 06:34 PM.
Aug 30, 2016, 12:01 PM
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15-size BL Motor 850Kv (3542) EFLM4115


BL Motor is a 15-size 850Kv E-flite part # EFLM4115. Available here for $39.09. This is the same motor used in the NEW (as of April 2018) P-51D Mustang Part # EFL8950. It is 4S capable but will require more cooling than the stock prop backplate provides.

My BLOG POST #27 HERE was done to provide the necessary cooling. In my opinion this cooling helps even when running on 3S LiPos.

By dimensions it is a 3542 motor, i.e. the can is 35mm in diameter and 42mm in length.

Part # EFL8204 is the prop adapter. It comes with the BL motor but can also be ordered separately. It is listed as a part for the 1.2M Mustang and the 1.2M Spitfire. It is available HERE at HH for $5.99. It is described below in POST 5.

The BL motor shaft is 5mm but it does not extend out beyond the motor housing.

The spinner has a 3mm bolt holding it on over the prop. It uses a 2.0mm Allen (hex) wrench to loosen or tighten it. The same 2.0mm wrench can be used on the 3 bolts holding the prop adapter on.

After 4 dozen flights I am beginning to suspect the motor needs some downthrust. A few washers behind the upper motor mounts may provide what's needed to eliminate the pitch-up tendency this bird shows. I've compensated for the SAFE/AS3X programs that pitch the plane up with added throttle,by adding some THR > ELE mixes and a larger ESC mod to help get the CG more forward than I was able to with the stock setup.
Last edited by hifinsword; Mar 11, 2019 at 07:53 AM.
Aug 30, 2016, 12:03 PM
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1.2M Mustang & Spitfire prop adapter EFL8204


The prop adapter is not listed as a separate part from the BL Motor. It comes with the EFLM4115 motor.

Part # EFL8204 is available at HH for $5.99. It is listed for both the 1.2M Mustang and Spitfire. The product description for EFL8204 says "Prop Adapter Hex 32mm: P-51D & Spitfire 1.2m (EFL8204)".
http://www.horizonhobby.com/prop-ada...-12m-p-efl8204

It fits over the motor front. There is no prop shaft to slide over. The prop adapter measures -
20mm wide at base
6mm thick at base
6mm prop shaft diameter
30mm shaft length exposed in length
36mm total shaft length attached to motor

Use a 2.0mm Allen (hex) wrench for the 3 bolts holding the adapter to the motor.

The bolts are M2.5x8mm.

The bolts are 13mm apart.
Last edited by hifinsword; Mar 11, 2019 at 07:59 AM.
Aug 30, 2016, 12:09 PM
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1.2M Spitfire Rates & Setup


Per the manual, the following rates are recommended.

--------Low Rates--------------- ----------High Rates---------
AIL 12mm Down; 15mm Up; 18mm Down; 20mm Up
ELE 9mm ---------------------- ; 12mm
RUD 18mm -------------------- ; 25mm
FLAPS 15mm,Takeoff ------ ; 30mm Landing

Unless specified for each direction, throws are for each direction from neutral, left or right, up or down, not total throws.
IOT get the high rates on my AILERONS I had to move the control rod in to the middle hole on the control horns. The manual recommends the outermost hole. I'm using a DX18. A different Tx may require a different mechanical setup WRT which holes the control rods are placed at either end.
Last edited by hifinsword; Feb 01, 2017 at 04:16 PM.
Aug 30, 2016, 12:19 PM
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Binding with SAFE always ON or OFF; or Assigning a switch for SAFE SELECT ON/OFF


The attached file contains PAGES 8 & 9 of the 1.2M Spitfire manual. It is for binding the AR636A with the SAFE either always ON or always OFF - AND for assigning a switch for SAFE SELECT ON or OFF. A link for the complete Spitfire manual is found below.

SAFE ALWAYS OFF:
If you want SAFE ALWAYS OFF,
follow the procedure on the right side of PAGE 8 for SAFE ALWAYS OFF. It is basically a normal bind procedure. The Auto-Level (A/L) feature of SAFE will be OFF, but the AS3X feature will still be enabled.

SAFE SELECT ON/OFF:
To bind so that the SAFE SELECT can be switched ON or OFF,
follow the procedures on the left side of PAGE 8 of the manual. That is the procedure to have SAFE ALWAYS ON.

Then follow the procedure FURTHER DOWN on PAGE 9 for ASSIGNING A SWITCH. The top of the page reads "SAFE® Select Switch Designation". Be aware THE SWITCH HAS TO BE SETUP PRIOR to the procedure on PAGE 9. "IMPORTANT: Before assigning your desired switch, ensure that the travel for that channel is set at 100%."
That also means the AUX2 Channel be assigned to the MODE switch you intend to use.
There is no mention of being in HIGH RATES. But you must be in HIGH RATES to get the switch to work.

NOTE: The SAFE SELECT mode switch default is the AUX2 Ch. And to set it you must be in HIGH RATES! I can't find the documentation for either of these statements. AUX2 is the channel you must set up for your SAFE SELECT ON/OFF switch. And to do that you must be in HIGH RATES.

The E-flite 1.2M Spitfire OWNERS MANUAL LINK HERE under the "MANUALS & SUPPORT" tab.

You may want to try a search on the E-flite Spitfire MKXIV 1.2m BNF Basic thread here. The one common "GOTCHA" seems to be not being in HIGH rates when doing the procedure. Make sure you're in HIGH rates!


E-Flite Spitfire Mk XIV - SAFE® Select technology (3 min 17 sec)
Last edited by hifinsword; Nov 28, 2018 at 06:47 AM.
Aug 30, 2016, 01:04 PM
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E-flite 1.2M Spitfire Parts


PART # EFL8650 E-flite 1.2M Spitfire BNF Basic with AS3X® Technologyand SAFE SELECT AR636A Rx, $269.99 at HorizonHobby

PART # EFLG1590M E-flite Retractable Main LG It's listed as a 15 size, 90 degree mainfor $29.69 at HorizonHobby.

PART # EFLA1140W E-flite ESC 40A $29.69 at MotionRC.

PART # SPMSA330 Spektrum 9g Servos $14.99 at HH.

PART # SPMPAR636ASpektrum Sport Receiver 6Ch $79.99 at HH

Part # EFLP10805B E-flite 5-blade propeller at MRC or at HorizonHobby. $14.11 at MRC or $14.24 at HH. Although it is listed as a 10x8 pitch prop, it actually measures 10-3/16 inches in diameter.

Part # EFL8609E-flite 1.2M Spitfire Mk XIV Radiators at HorizonHobby for $16.14


Most of these parts can be found here under "PARTS & ACCESSORIES" at HorizonHobby.com.
Last edited by hifinsword; Apr 11, 2018 at 04:00 AM.
Sep 05, 2016, 08:42 AM
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Static prop data


STOCK PARTS:
All tests below were conducted using the stock BL Motor, a 15-size 850Kv BL motor, E-flite part # EFLM4115. The test was conducted with a 60A ESC installed. The ESC uses a 5A/V switching BEC. See the mod in POST #10 below.

By dimensions it is a 3542 motor.

The prop adapter is part # EFL8204. It comes with the BL motor.

Stock 5-blade 10.5x8 prop, Brand: E-flite Part # EFLP10805B $14.11 here at MotionRC.
Or find it HERE for $14.24 at HorizonHobby. Although it is listed as a 10x8 pitch prop, it actually measures 10-3/16 inches in diameter.


Battery - Glacier 3S 30C 2200mAh LiPo
3S 12.6V = 37amps, 434watts
3S 12.3V = 35amps, 425watts (taken 30 sec after starting run with freshly charged batt)

Battery - Wildcat 4S 30C 2200mAh LiPo
4S 16.8V = 55amps, 802watts
4S 15.8V = 51amps, 755watts (taken 30 sec after starting run with freshly charged batt)
Last edited by hifinsword; Mar 05, 2019 at 05:58 AM.
Sep 09, 2016, 06:20 AM
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Alternative 60A Electronic Speed Control MOD


STATIC PROP DATA, from POST #9 above using the 60A ESC after the mod:
Stock 5-blade 10.5x8 prop
Although it is listed as a 10x8 pitch prop, it actually measures 10-3/16 inches in diameter.


Battery - Glacier 3S 30C 2200mAh LiPo
3S 12.6V = 37amps, 434watts
3S 12.3V = 35amps, 425watts (taken 30 sec after starting run with freshly charged batt)

Battery - Wildcat 4S 30C 2200mAh LiPo
4S 16.8V = 55amps, 802watts
4S 15.8V = 51amps, 755watts (taken 30 sec after starting run with freshly charged batt)

NOTE: I believe the "Spinner Backplate Cooling MOD" HERE on my POST 27 will help more than anything else to cool the motor.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


EDIT 04 April 2018:
Although the stock Spitfire 40A ESC is also the same ESC listed for the new P-51D Mustang (as of April 2018) which is rated for 4S LiPo power, mine ran HOT on 3S. On 4S it also ran hot. I do not have the Mustang to compare. HH may feel the ESC and the stock motor are OK on 4S but I feel better with a stronger ESC and cooling holes in the prop backplate to run my system cooler.

EDIT 13 March 2018:
Pilot Area81Racing says the HobbyWing SkyWalker 60A ESC can be installed with no cutting. It's available HERE at Amazon for $27.49 with free shipping.

Pilot JM66 is using the ZTW mantis 65A ESC with a 5V/5A SBEC. It also installed with no cutting.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


MY 60A ESC MOD:
I decided I would enlarge the ESC and battery bays, and upgrade the ESC to 60 amps. The ESC is an Emax ESC loaded with SimonK software. It has a 5V/5A switching Battery Eliminator Circuit (SBEC). I measured the output at 5.15V. So that's all the servos will be getting.

It can be found here at HeadsUpHobby for $17.95. It comes bare wire. I added a Deans battery connector and 3.5mm female bullets for the motor leads. I also soldered an extension to the battery leads which looks like it may not have been needed. However the motor leads push the ESC to the rear which might negate its heavier weight. Shortening the motor leads would keep the ESC forward. If I do that, the extra long battery leads may come in handy after all.

EDIT 19 Sep 2017: The Emax 60A ESC I used is no longer carried by HeadsUpHobby. This HobbyWing SkyWalker 60A ESC for $29.51, carried at BG is similar as far as being a switched mode BEC with an output of 5V/5A. I do not know if it will provide the proper timing on startup for the AR636A Rx.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


OBJECTIVES:
The primary reason for upgrading to a larger ESC was for a cooler running ESC. The stock EFLA1140W 40A ESC ran hot, especially on hot or even warm summer days. But the upgrade accomplishes 5 things, not just a cooler running ESC.


- 1. FLEXIBILITY OF 3/4S LiPos:
Three of my 6 main birds are 4S and 3 are 3S. The 60A ESC allows me the flexibility to fly with my 4S batteries. Four cells equal more volts, lower amps and less heat at the same power setting. There is also more power at the same throttle setting available. On the maiden flight with the new 60A ESC, I found that using high throttle does cause the motor to run very hot. But I can say the same when running with 3S batts as well. I will be limiting how I fly on 4S flights until I can cool the motor. In order to cool the motor I have cut five 3/16th inch holes in the spinner backplate. I flew with the mod in early March 2017. It did not increase cooling of the motor however. I'm not sure how large I could make the holes without compromising the backplate. I feel a stronger BL motor may be needed for a cooler running motor.

- 2. ADDED WEIGHT TO FRONT:
The larger battery bay allows me to move the LiPos farther forward than before. And 4S batteries weigh more than my 3S LiPos. The larger ESC also weighs more and has added weight to the nose. The nose up tendency is not as pronounced as before. I will have to adjust my mixes to counter the nose-up pitch I find in my E-flite Spitfire. The ESC leads can be shortened to keep the ESC more forward. But I will try to avoid doing that unless absolutely necessary. They currently push the ESC aft about 1 inch.

- 3. BETTER COOLING:
The larger 60A ESC does not run hot, or even warm.
The enlarged bays also allow better cooling for both the battery, the AR636A Rx and the 60A ESC.

- 4. EASY ACCESS TO ESC:
I made the battery tray removable. If I need to access the ESC or the Rx leads, it's much easier once the battery tray is removed.

- 5. REMOVABLE AR636A, BETTER ACCESS:
As I was doing the mod, it occurred to me that I could mount the AR636A on double-sided tape as I do my other stabs. It was semi-permanently mounted with silicone caulk from the factory. The double-sided tape makes it much easier to access if I needed to change a servo or try a different stab or Rx.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



INSTALLATION:

- 1. The first step is to gain acess to the ESC bay. I cut out the recess area forward of the front wing mount bolt attachment bar as seen in picture #1. I used a NEW #11 razor. The 2nd part is to remove the foam aft of the front wing mount bolt attachment bar. A better approach to the way I did it would be to pull the AR636A off its mount prior to cutting the foam where it mounts. I didn't plan to remount the Rx but did afterwards anyway. The foam aft of the front wing mount is is where the AR636A sits.

If you don't remove the AR636A, you have to be careful not to cut the servo wires or antennae. There is an antenna on each side and to the rear of the Rx. I removed 2 pieces of foam aft of the front wing mount bolt attachment bar and kept them together for the reassembly. Unless you have other plans to attach the wing, it's best to not remove or weaken the front wing mount.

- 2. Once the ESC & AR636A have been removed, the battery tray must be removed. It requires cutting outward to the sides at different angles, from both the top and the bottom of the tray, being careful not to pierce the outer skin of the plane. I did not have that problem but it is tedious and requires repeated slicing in the same areas while peeling back the area as you go.

- 3. I felt the sidewalls needed reinforcing once the tray was removed. So I wanted the sidewalls of the battery/ESC bay to be parallel for some 3mm (1/8") balsa plywood. I used Gorilla Glue for all the gluing in this mod. I felt the easiest way to keep the sidewalls parallel and aligned with the battery tray was to place the battery tray in place as it will be later while the glued expanded and dried. The aft part of the battery bay is wider than the front section. Using GG allows it to expand to fill the rear area where it is wider. I cleaned up the stock tray before placing it in as a spacer. It's a good idea to dry-fit the batt tray in place with the new plywood sidewalls before gluing them to the foam sidewalls. If you can slide it up and down with a little friction throughout the entire space, it will ensure the fit.

I used the newer white formula Gorilla Glue in case I need to use some on the outside for other projects. The sidewalls will be where the tray supports will be attached. The sidewalls are 134mm x 30mm. I shoved them forward up to the rear of the plastic motor mount. Obviously the sidewalls must be longer if you decide to cut out the foam supports aft of the forward motor mount. I think 1/16" plywood, or even 1/16" flat balsa would be fine, versus the 1/8" lite ply I used, if it's held in place with GG.

- 4. The ESC bay was also enlarged by removing foam. Foam forward of the front wing mount bolt attachment bar was removed as were some vertical foam braces on the sides. The ESC wire tunnels to the motor were enlarged.

- 5. Battery tray supports are 3/8" square poplar wood found at a local hardware store. I cut their length to the same width as the tray. In hindsight I could have cut the supports longer so they would gone under the vertical foam braces on the sides for more support. I would have notched under the foam vertical sidewall supports. Their main function is to support the battery tray and keep the fuselage width even. I placed the battery supports as far forward as feasible so they would not restrict the ESC bay where the wires would be. The forward support was placed aft of the rear motor mount far enough to allow airflow to come up forward of the battery tray. That's also why the front edge of the tray is placed about 1/4" aft of the plastic motor mount. The 2nd support is almost centered under the tray instead of near the aft part of the tray. That way it does not restrict the battery wires as they exit and come up at the rear of the tray where I put a V-notch for cooling air to come up.

- 6. Once the sidewalls were glued in place with Gorilla Glue, I could space the tray supports for placing a 4S LiPo. Placed too high would not allow me to use a square shaped 4S batt. Too low would cramp the new 60A ESC. After the glue was dry I placed a Dynam 2200mAh 4S LiPo on the tray and pushed the tray up from the bottom with the battery hatch in place. That gave me the proper height for the battery tray which I marked on the sidewalls with pencil. The supports were glued in place at the pencil marks with Gorilla Glue. You have to be very careful so that no GG glue gets on top of the supports where the tray will sit.

I placed the tray in between the new sidewalls and let it be the spacer while the Gorilla Glue dried. It's a good idea to keep placing the largest 4S batt you plan to use on the tray with the battery hatch in place while you push up slightly from the bottom as the glue dries. You want to make sure the tray supports aren't too high or low. As the glue dries and the supports get firmer, you will be able to fine-tune their position.

Once the supports were in place and the GG glue dried, I could pre-drill the tray and the support for screws. I cut out the Velcro where the 2 square holes in the tray are for airflow around the battery sides and bottom. I removed Velcro from the front 1/2" of the tray so a battery could slide up forward without snagging on the Velcro. Velcro was added to the rear for longer batteries. A V-shaped notch was cut at the rear of the tray for airflow. Extra slots along the edge were cut for more airflow to the battery bay and adjusting where the battery strap can be placed. The tray ended up being all the way to the rear. That leaves a gap in the front for air to pass.

- 7. The tray can be removed for access to the ESC bay. Four small screws hold the tray in place. Two cross members of 3/8" poplar hardwood provide the support under the tray. I used hardwood instead of balsa so the screws won't come loose. Maybe square balsa stock could be used as long as the screw holes are hardened with thin CA.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


RESULTS:

The new 60A ESC ran cool. It didn't even get warm. The motor however gets HOT. But it gets hot on either 3S or 4S LiPos. So my next mod will be to open some cooling holes in the prop backplate.

EDIT:
See my POST 27 HERE for cooling the motor.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


At least 2 pilots in the "E-flite Spitfire MKXIV 1.2m BNF Basic " thread found here have upgraded or plan to upgrade the ESC in order to fly with 4S LiPos. Going back to Post 753, Deano N upgraded his motor and was waiting for a 50A ESC to put in. He had to find an ESC with small dimensions to get it in the small space allowed. He said the ESC space was 30mm wide x 12mm high.

Also SpecialEdCT back in Post 761 upgraded his ESC to 60 amps. But I haven't seen how it worked out.

A stronger motor may run cooler with the 5-blade prop. Maybe the BL10, 800Kv: Turbo Timber (EFLM17552) $59.99 at HH? But will it fit?
Last edited by hifinsword; Mar 05, 2019 at 05:49 AM.
Sep 16, 2016, 08:02 AM
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Fix retractable LG worm drive & POSSIBLE REPLACEMENT PARTS


The left main LG Retract, failed to come down after its 31st flight. I had flown it 3 times that day, retracted the gear as usual for the trip home and hung it in its usual place in my hangar (FROG - Finished Room Over the Garage). Prior to taking it out on 9/16/2016 I wanted to do some Tx checks and found the left main LG wouldn't come down.

Prior to the 29th flight I had adjusted the right retract due to it being wobbly, i.e. loose left & right of center about 8 -9 degrees. See POST #3 above. That required removing the assembly for access to the set screw holding the main struts in place. I decided to snug up the left main LG also at that time, although the play in it was not as much.

Since the 1st repair, every now and then the retract acts up again. If I remove power from the plane, and power back up, usually it fixes the problem and I can fly with the retracts working fine. Recently I decided to open it up and take another look. I found a spot on the controller board that has worn away the protective covering. It's from the trunnion's rotation. It's only visible once the trunnion is removed (Picture 13 below). I filed the surface of the trunnion hoping it will not continue to rub the surface of the control board.

I called HH and they promised to send a replacement. That was back in Sept. After contacting again them in December, a replacement retract was sent. It works as advertised. The problem could be either the electronics retract board with intermittent contact, or the worn spot I found under where the trunnion moves as it extends and retracts. But I don't want to tear the white caulk out IOT look for a short and possibly completely destroy the retract. I may in the future if another retract is required.

It's possible some of the random failures due to the trunnion binding was from too much grease. When I removed the jackscrew and initially greased them, both locked up. I cleaned them with some CRC Cleaner which removed most of the grease. I also put the aluminum rider piece that rides the jackscrew with the small protrusion up towards the control board. It may have been installed backwards. I couldn't determine what its normal install position should be or was prior to me taking it apart. If anyone else can say, please post here or on the main Spitfire thread.

E-flite Retractable Main LG - Part # EFLG1590M. It's listed as a 15 size, 90 degree main for $26.69 here at HorizonHobby.com
See my POST #3 above for more info on the LG.

POSSIBLE REPLACEMENT PARTS:
The only vendor selling replacement parts for this size of e-retracts that I have found is PW-RC.com. Here is A LINK to their landing gear parts. I have not bought any of these products but the descriptions and pictures do seem to match the Spitfire retracts in some cases.
Last edited by hifinsword; Jun 19, 2017 at 07:45 AM.
Oct 05, 2016, 10:34 AM
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Strange values on ELE as seen on Monitor


While setting up my MIXES to counter the AR636A's built-in pitch-up tendency, I noted the values of the ELE on the monitor.

With my MIX1 to counter pitch with SAFE ON, the monitor shows a value of -5 to +15%, position "0" on my active switch.

With my MIX2 to counter pitch with SAFE OFF, the monitor shows a value of -3 to +9, in position "1" on my active switch.

With both MIXES OFF, and SAFE OFF, position "2" on my active switch, the monitor shows an ELE value at -21 throughout the full throttle range.

My default "TRAVEL" setting are at 150%. When I switch to the values to 100% "TRAVEL" the values are -14% throughout the full throttle range.

Why are they not zero (0)?

Andy Kunz of Spektrum (designer/engineer of Spektrum Txs) answered my question in another thread HERE. He said the values are what the Tx is sending to the AR636A Rx, not what the Rx is sending to the servos.
Last edited by hifinsword; Mar 03, 2017 at 08:51 AM.
Nov 08, 2016, 04:23 PM
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Rudder repair/reinforcement


After a nose-over landing, my rudder tip was bent. So I wanted to reinforce it rather than just straighten it out. Since this mod, I do this to all my tail draggers out of the box.

MATERIALS:STEP 1. I started by using a wet hot cloth (microwaved) first to swell out any crooked or damaged parts. It's best to get everything as straight as possible before matching them back up for gluing.

STEP 2. I drilled out a diagonal hole using my smallest 4" drill bit, about 2mm. Then I followed it with my 3mm 4" drill bit. I rotated the drills by hand and pulled them out IOT get some of the foam out. See picture below.

STEP 3. I measured a piece of 3mm CF rod to a length about 3.5" long. I wrapped it with clear Scotch tape where I needed to cut it in order to keep the CF dust and bits contained. I used some wire stripper/cutters to cut the CF rod and removed the tape once the cutting was done. Then I sanded the sharp edges with sand paper.

STEP 4. I inserted the CF rod at an angle so that there was still room for a 2nd 4" BBQ skewer forward of the CF rod. Once you are sure it fits correctly, put some Foam-Cure along the lower third and insert. Do the same for the BBQ skewers.

STEP 5. I inserted the BBQ skewer at a diagonal forward of the 3mm CF rod.

STEP 6. For a little more reinforcement I inserted a 2nd BBQ skewer aft of the CF rod.
Last edited by hifinsword; Dec 01, 2018 at 05:57 AM.
Nov 23, 2016, 10:40 AM
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Flight videos


E-flite 1.2M Spitfire 2016.11.17 first flit of the day (1 min 31 sec)
Nov 25, 2016, 02:50 PM
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DX6i setup for SAFE SELECT ON/OFF using the FLAPS Switch


PROGRAM SETUP:
You will be setting values in 3 different menus, the TRAVEL ADJUST, the FLAPS and the REVERSE menus. These 3 menus should be setup before binding to the AR636A, and before assigning the SAFE SELECT mode switch. Here's how I programmed my DX6i for SAFE SELECT ON/OFF using the Flap/Gyro switch.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SAFE SELECT VALUES - DISCUSSION:
This setup will give you SAFE SELECT ON & OFF on the FLAPS switch, with flaps down.

Per the attached MANUAL below, you must set the values for SAFE ON to 100%. But it does not mention the value for SAFE OFF. I believe it should read "you must set the values for SAFE ON to +100%, and to -100% for SAFE OFF". This may be confusing to a newcomer. These values are set in the TRAVEL ADJUST menu. But for our purposes with the DX6i, we will also be using the FLAPS & REVERSE menus. AND THE FLAP MENU VALUES MUST ALSO BE HIGH ENOUGH TO ENABLE SAFE ON! If either of the TRAVEL ADJUST or FLAP menus values are too low, SAFE ON cannot be enabled.

Since the MANUAL values are normally used in a setup where the SAFE SELECT Switch is only used to switch SAFE ON or OFF, those TRAVEL ADJUST values will work. But for this setup, we will be combining the SAFE SELECT Mode Switch with the FLAPS. I did some experimentation to determine what values are needed to do dual duty in order to select SAFE ON & SAFE OFF, as well as run the FLAPS up & down. On my DX6i all I need is a +48 for SAFE ON. Anything below about +47 was SAFE OFF.

NOTE 1: The actual value may be unique to each Tx so you may have to experiment where the changeover is. Your mileage may vary.

NOTE 2: The SS Mode switch you plan to use must normally be assigned to a Rx channel. Otherwise the Rx will not know it is being assigned when you do the Mode Select Switch procedure. With the DX6i the Flap channel is automatically assigned to Ch5. If you are using a different Tx, make sure your SS Mode switch is assigned to the correct Rx channel.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DX6i SETUP:

1. TRAVEL ADJUST menu:
Set up the DX6i using the manual (Page 4 bottom right corner). Under the TRAVEL ADJUST menu, make sure the Gear switch and the Flap switches show UP & DOWN arrows at 100%. You can set the THR, AIL, ELE & RUD to 100% or up to 125%. I chose 125% for the highest resolution on the control surfaces, i.e. T, A, E, R.

2. FLAPS menu:
On the FLAPS menu I set the NORM position (Flap/Gyro switch position 0) to DOWN arrow 100% & the LAND position (Flap/Gyro switch position 1) to UP arrow 100% initially. The book says FLAPS should be set to 60%. I found that value can be as low as 48% UP arrow on my Tx to activate SAFE ON. The 60% value from the MANUAL is good but you may be able to use a lower value for Flaps if you want. So the initial setup is at 100% UP arrow when the switch is in LAND. And the DOWN arrow is at 100%. But due to the higher values causing a buzz in the flaps servos, and overdriving them, I had to adjust them down slightly.

I ended up in the NORM position ("switch position 0/Flap") with the DOWN arrow at 95%, & the LAND position ("switch position 1/Gryo") with an UP arrow at 93%.

3. REVERSE menu:
In the REVERSE menu, I REVERSED the FLAPS (set to R) so the SAFE would be ON with the Flaps DOWN.
All the other positions under the REVERSE MENU are NORM "N". So SAFE is OFF when the Flaps are UP, ON when Flaps are DOWN.

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SAFE SELECT ON BIND PROCEDURE:
I followed the SAFE SELECT ON procedure, removing the bind plug after plugging the LiPo into the plane and getting the cell count confirmation from the bird, i.e. 3 beeps for a 3 cell LiPo, 4 beeps for a 4 cell LiPo. Once the bind plug was removed from the plane, with the battery still plugged in, I turned on my DX6i with the BIND switch held up. It took 2 tries but I got the twitches and it was bound.

IMPORTANT NOTES:
1. The Tx must be in HIGH rates IOT assign a switch for SAFE SELECT.

2. The values for your SAFE SELECT Mode switch, i.e. the FLAP Switch in this case, should be +100 to -100.
They must be set in the TRAVEL ADJUST menu per the manual (or at least +48 to +100 as discussed above) before doing the SAFE SELECT Switch assignment step below.

3. If you want more than 1 down position for flaps, you'll have to do a mix, but I'm fine with flaps in the 93% position. If the flap position is below 48%, you will turn SAFE OFF. But check the actual value for your setup.


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ASSIGNING THE SAFE SELECT SWITCH:

1. Bind the Tx to the Rx using the SAFE ON procedure (see above).

2. Hold the control sticks together and down. The left stick is in the 4 O'clock position and the right stick in the 7 O'clock position per the manual.

3. Flick the FLAP/GYRO switch at least 5 times quickly and get the surfaces to react showing the SAFE ON/OFF mode is bound to the FLAP/GYRO switch.

Results. If you end up with the switch in the SAFE SELECT ON mode after flicking the switch 5 times, the control surfaces will go full right rudder, full up elevator and ailerons in a full left turn. Release the sticks. The FLAP/GYRO Switch is now assigned as SAFE SELECT ON/OFF.

If you just want SAFE ON when landing with Flaps DOWN, this will work. If you want something other than full flaps, you will be able to adjust the Flaps down to about 48% and still have SAFE ON. Mine are at 93% in FULL DOWN before they start to buzz from too much travel.

If you get into trouble, throwing the FLAPS switch to their DOWN position will give you the auto-leveling and bank/pitch restrictions of SAFE ON.

CAUTION:
As noted above, each Tx may be different so experiment with the values around 47-48% for the switchover value for SAFE ON/OFF. If you set your flaps for a value too low, EITHER UP OR DOWN, SAFE may be OFF when you thought it was ON.


TESTING FOR SAFE:
To test this pick up your plane in what you want to be your SAFE ON mode and rotate it about the pitch and roll axis. The ailerons and elevator should go to and MAINTAIN an auto-level position. Double-check the direction is correct for the attitude you set for the plane.

NOTE ON THE GEAR:
I tried using the gear switch but could not get the GEAR to activate SAFE ON with the Gear in the DOWN position, only the UP position. Also the GEAR will go up or down at about 70-71%. One gear was at 70% and the other at 71%.
Last edited by hifinsword; Feb 27, 2018 at 07:31 AM.


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