FrSky Horus X12S - A new beginning. - Page 847 - RC Groups
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Oct 10, 2017, 09:37 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by GVT
Can you post a picture with the knob mounted on the Horus.
Thnx!
With it being an aluminium knob won't it cause issues with esd?
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Oct 10, 2017, 09:37 AM
cfg
cfg
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thoemse
Thank you, ordered one. Should handle a lot better than that plastic thingy.
Dude, will you sell me one?
Oct 10, 2017, 09:59 AM
AKA 8178 - MIke Dailey
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by boldnuts
With it being an aluminium knob won't it cause issues with esd?
From my own experience with ESD events on the X12S I would not use a metal knob there.

The thing about ESD is that it is so sneaky and nasty. It takes just the right humidity level, the right static build up in the user and bang the system shuts off. The story is way too long to share here. But I was the first to have a ESD event on my prototype and you would not believe the amount of effort that went into first figuring out why my system shut off, trying to replicate the condition, deciding it must be ESD, all the ESD lab testing and designing the ESD protection solution and more testing, Plus disassembling the first beta unit run down to the frame that were ready to ship and adding the ESD protection.

One thing I learned is you do not want ESD problems.

Mike
Last edited by Jet_Flyer; Oct 10, 2017 at 10:58 AM.
Oct 10, 2017, 10:38 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by glur
Mine too... broken after two hours of programing. I am having somebody printing this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2192774
Glued mine back together with CA. No issues ever since....

Cheers
Oct 10, 2017, 11:30 AM
AKA 8178 - MIke Dailey
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
FrSky Silicone Gimbal Flex Wires

The gimbal wires on my X12S systems have contact cement potting at the Hall Effect sensors and at the plugs on the main board, and have shown no indication that they are fracturing. I like using the contact cement because it sticks really well and has some flexibility when set. But I have the new FrSky silicone flex wires that would be ideal to use. The original plastic coated wire looks like it has seven strands and the silicone coated flex wire eleven. Both wires have very fine strands that are hard to see so my count could be off by a strand or two

I few weeks ago I installed the FrSky silicone flex wires on my prototype X12S. It uses different Hall Effect sensors with exposed solder pads with screw on wire clamps over them and I was able to change the wires without removing the sensors. I also changed the route of the wires from the main board to the sensor to reduce the wire flexing like I did on my Q X7 and FrSky is now doing on the X10 and X10S. I had some free time yesterday and decided to explore ways to change the gimbal wires on one of my production systems to the FrSky silicone flex wires without disturbing or removing the sensors.

If you do not have excellent soldering skills and experience doing this kind of work I would highly recommend having your dealer install the wires.

When working on the radio be sure to disconnect the battery as the first thing you do, be careful not to drop solder slag in the system and be careful with the hot soldering iron with all the plastic cables and plastic parts.

Messing with the Hall sensors can be problematic. It is possible to take the sensor out, remove the wires and solder in the new wires. But the position of the Hall sensor in relation to the magnet is important and there is some risk in handling the sensor, the heat needed to get the old wires out, clean out the holes and solder in the new wires. The Hall sensors are programmable and they are matched to the magnet at the factory as part of the gimbal build, so if you damage a sensor it can be a problem. It was a risk I did not want to take.

I decided that because the existing wires were in good condition I would clip the wires near the sensor and splice the flex wire to the sensor wires and the ends of the existing wires from the main board. Then reroute the wires so the feed to the sensor was from the side of the gimbal. The side feed reduces the wire flexing.

If I was doing this on a system that did not have the wires potted at the sensor I think I would pot the wires before starting the process to keep them from moving while doing the work.

It is important to hold the Hall sensor wires with some needle nose pliers when striping the wire insulation so there is no stress at the sensor connection. I striped off about 3/32” of the insulation and then tinned the end with solder being careful with the heat.

The FrSky silicone wires come with the main board connector installed for both gimbal sensors, but only one wire set is needed and I cut wires off the connector. I joined the silicone flex wires to the end of the existing wire from the main board with overlapping solder joints covered with heat shrink.

I then stripped about 1/16” of the silicone insulation off the ends of the flex wires and tinned the ends with solder. The silicone insulation is very soft so some caution is needed when working with it.

Then I soldered the wire ends to the Hall sensor wires in a pigtail joint. When doing the overlap and pigtail joints you want to make sure you have a good solder flow in the joint. Heat shrink was use over the joints.

Because the silicone insulation is very soft I did not want to use cable ties, so I used #10 size crochet thread (more like a cord) that is soft but strong to hold the wires at the Hall sensor mounting and at the wires on the side of the gimbal. The wire is free to flex between the thread on the Hall mount and the thread on the side of the gimbal. There are three loops of thread at the mount and one at the gimbal side and just pulled snug. The wiring cleared everything on the aileron side, but interfered with one of the grip nubs on the rudder side. I trimmed of some of the nub for clearance.

After I was sure the installation worked OK I potted the wires at the Hall sensor the thread on the Hall sensor mount and thread at the side of the gimbal with contact cement.

The solution seems to work very well, reduced the risk of sensor damage and to me looks like a reasonably clean installation.

See images below.

Edit: Installed the silicone wires in another production system and it went well. Made the pigtails slightly shorter for a cleaner appearance.

Mike

Other Useful links on this thread:

Flashing Instructions for OpenTX, FrTX and Smart Port https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=950
FrSky XJT RF Module - 32 Channels https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=6593
Programming Function Automation with FrTX https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2846
Configuring a simple model with FrTX https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2702
High resolution X12S images https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=275
Critical RSSI Level Alarm https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=5941
Using Telemetry As Inputs with FrTX https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=9246
Last edited by Jet_Flyer; Oct 17, 2017 at 04:53 PM.
Oct 10, 2017, 05:13 PM
Converted to FrSky!
Flyer Phill's Avatar
Great write up Mike.
My X12 should be with me in a few days and I'm interested in breaking it open to see if I have the updated harness.
Latest blog entry: How to reverse a digital servo
Oct 10, 2017, 07:07 PM
melbourne-multirotor
yak-54's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyer Phill
Great write up Mike.
My X12 should be with me in a few days and I'm interested in breaking it open to see if I have the updated harness.
who's its coming from ?
Oct 10, 2017, 07:40 PM
Converted to FrSky!
Flyer Phill's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by yak-54
who's its coming from ?
Hobbyking
Latest blog entry: How to reverse a digital servo
Oct 11, 2017, 04:17 AM
Registered User
Thoemse's Avatar
I gotta praise Hobbking for their support. I sent my Horus back to them because a gimbal failed.
Today I got a brand new Horus including a new case!
Even better: It is space grey wich is what I ordered in the first place. The defective one was the textured though. They sent the wrong one the first time but I accepted it.

Are the new models using silicon cabling allready? That would be a nice side effect of the RMA.
Oct 11, 2017, 04:46 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thoemse
I gotta praise Hobbking for their support. I sent my Horus back to them because a gimbal failed.
Today I got a brand new Horus including a new case!
Even better: It is space grey wich is what I ordered in the first place. The defective one was the textured though. They sent the wrong one the first time but I accepted it.

Are the new models using silicon cabling allready? That would be a nice side effect of the RMA.
The newer production date should be, but i would check them to be sure
Oct 11, 2017, 08:00 AM
I slope - therefore I am
a944734's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by GVT
Can you post a picture with the knob mounted on the Horus.
Thnx!
Here you go
Comes with a grub screw into the axle hole. Screw it in a tiny bit and press onto the axle - done

BTW used it the whole year and did not have any "ESD" problem
Oct 11, 2017, 08:10 AM
AKA 8178 - MIke Dailey
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by a944734

BTW used it the whole year and did not have any "ESD" problem
You will and not worth the risk.

Mike
Last edited by Jet_Flyer; Oct 11, 2017 at 08:31 AM.
Oct 11, 2017, 08:33 AM
TEAM HILLBILLY
3Dplank's Avatar
What is the red button on the left side do?
Oct 11, 2017, 08:42 AM
Registered User
that's a third gimbal.
Oct 11, 2017, 08:47 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by raleighcopter
that's a third gimbal.
Don't expect much of it.... The resolutions is low and it is hard to move, to it basically is all or nothing. It is very handy for moving camera gimbals on a camera drone though


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