Res-dart - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Nov 28, 2016, 11:13 AM
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Nice. Looking forward to watching your build.

-Dave
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Dec 05, 2016, 12:14 PM
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builting a res-dart


Some usefull builting informations: http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showt...C3%A4sentation!
Page 10 and upwards

kind regards

Franz
Dec 06, 2016, 11:16 PM
Registered User

RES-dart


Mine is on the way.
Dec 07, 2016, 11:59 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by PDARR
Pay pal tomorrow and mine is on it's way here to SW Pennsylvania. I'm pumped!
How do I order one of these I cant see a shippment to the states?
Dec 09, 2016, 02:58 AM
Lost in the Sky
Richard N's Avatar
The RES-Dart ordering page is here: https://zeller-modellbau.com/home/re...t-1920-mm.html

They currently show out of stock. Send them an email to : mailtoffice@zeller-modellbau.com telling them that you want to buy a RES-Dart along with your address. They will send you a quote and you pay by PayPal.

The RES-Dart construction manual (German language only) is here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/p3a6mlbydc...tuell.pdf?dl=0

The RC-Network site with the RES-Dart thread has been down for the last couple of days and hopefully they will come back soon. They have construction pictures that are useful additions to the manual.
Last edited by Richard N; Dec 09, 2016 at 12:40 PM.
Dec 09, 2016, 10:16 AM
Registered User
thank you for the contact info
Dec 09, 2016, 02:12 PM
Registered User

pictures and intormations


Hallo!

Picture 1: ribs with numbers

Picture 2: aditional reinforcement parts, made of 2 mm balsa, glued to the inside of the fuselage

Picture 3: Helling, fixes the wing upside down during work

Picture 4 and 5: DSA-wingtip of my prototype


kind regards

Franz
Dec 09, 2016, 02:47 PM
Lost in the Sky
Richard N's Avatar
Thanks Franz, these are exactly the pictures I need to get started. From your use of "Helling", it would translate to English as building jig or fixture. I couldn't get that from Google Translate.

Richard
Dec 10, 2016, 06:12 PM
Lost in the Sky
Richard N's Avatar
The German modeling forum RC-Network.de along with the RES-Dart thread is back up and running: http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showt...C3%A4sentation!
Dec 13, 2016, 08:08 PM
Lost in the Sky
Richard N's Avatar
Making a little progress.
Dec 13, 2016, 08:40 PM
less is more
Knoll53's Avatar
Ah, er, yes it's coming along well. Did you take any shots of the frame work in the jig?
Dec 13, 2016, 10:07 PM
Lost in the Sky
Richard N's Avatar
I started building on Thursday and didn't take any pictures until today, so I didn't get any construction pics.

Some things I picked up during the build:

1. When putting together the two parts of the green depron building jig, line up the corner cut edges with a straight edge before taping them together. The puzzle joint and flexing of the material can allow allow it to be crooked and that would be bad. I edge taped my jig pieces to my flat building board.

2. All of the ribs are one piece except rib 13 which is two pieces with a sawtooth joint. You will not get a correct rib without tweaking it. All of the ribs have the same spacing of the feet and I lightly sanded the teeth of one side the rib 13 parts until the feet had the same spacing and sat on the same line. Rib 13 needs to be made as one piece and they could do that by a tighter spacing of the parts on the rib sheet or just putting it on another sheet. It took me as much time to assemble the two halves of rib 13 accurately as it did to cut out all of the other ribs.

3. After the ribs are in the jig and you particularly want to block square and pin down the root and tip ribs. You might want to glue a stiffener to the root and tip ribs to keep them straight and prevent them from curving. Somehow I managed to tweak them when I built my second panel and wound up having to glue on some extra material and block sand the wing ends flat.

4. After you have the ribs in the jig and are ready to glue the spruce spars, glue the top spar on first and do the bottom spar last. The manual tells you to do the bottom spar first. One of the builders in the German thread mentions this and it makes sense to me. You can see much better what you are doing and you can push the spar down into the rib notches and you are pushing down on the spar into the rib instead of pulling the spar up into the notch where it is pretty hard to see what you are doing.

Dry fit the upper spar into the rib notches and glue only the root rib and the tip rib making sure those ribs are blocked square to the board. You can then hold a square against the foot and side of each rib and glue them each squarely to the spar. When you finish the top you can dry fit the bottom spar into the notches and even use your fingers or tape to pull the bottom spar towards the top spar.

5. Gluing the leading edge sheeting takes some time. You have to bevel the front edge of the sheeting to match where it will rest when the rest of it is glued down to the rib and I kind of eyeballed it. After the spars are glued, you glue on the LE. You should put a straight edge against it to be sure you keep it straight when you glue it into the bird mouths. You then glue the beveled edge of the leading edge sheeting onto the spar with CA with the sheet sticking up at the angle it wants to rest at with no load. I then dampened the outside of the sheeting with a sponge and test bent it down onto the ribs and marked where the sheeting would fall. I used Titebond wood glue to glue the sheeting down which gave me time to massage the sheeting down until the Titebond tacked up where using CA I would have had to pin everything down first and then try to get glue underneath the sheeting.

6. I've attached a picture of the wing bottom assembly plates. Note that you need to enlarge the hole for the servo extensions to make it big enough for the servo connectors to get through.

7. When I built the left wing panel, I found that one of the holes in the jig for the bottom wing bottom assembly plate was missing and rather than try to measure and guess cut one, I untaped my jig and flipped it over and used the cutouts on the bottom which are a mirror image of the top.

8. The aluminum wing rod tube with some notches filed into one end can be hand turned to drill through the soft balsa shear webs. The hole for it in the inner plywood rib needs to be enlarged and you will not be able to hand turn through that, so I used a ball end cutter in my Dremel tool to open it up.

9. With the wing jigged bottom up, after installing the shear webs and aluminum wing rod tubes, fabricate and install your servo extensions for your elevon and spoiler servos. It will be easier to do it before the bottom sheeting is installed. You will also need to enlarge the hole in the wingroot jig to allow your connectors to pass through.

I have most of the fuselage done and although its top and bottom are of light plywood, the sides are very soft balsa and the instructions say to cover it with glass cloth to make it strong enough and the German thread has them adding some reinforcements. If I were to do another, I might add thin plywood fuselage side doublers. If it needs noseweight, you might as well put that into structure instead of dead ballast.

Working on the DSA Tubes and Winglets tonight and will post more soon.

Richard
Dec 13, 2016, 10:54 PM
less is more
Knoll53's Avatar
Last Thursday?........Wow, you are really moving on this. Should be in the air soon. I hope you are able to set up a camera for test flights. Would love to see the first flights.
Dec 14, 2016, 01:22 AM
Lost in the Sky
Richard N's Avatar
So many planes, so little time.

I have been following the RES-Dart since summer an am pretty focused on it and enjoying the build. Learning more German too.
Dec 14, 2016, 03:09 AM
Registered User
Hallo Richard!
Wow!!! You are working really fast. Thank you for your pics and your built-tips. We are already on the way to solve some of the difficulties you had to handle.
Some tips of mine:
- As you can see at one of my pictures, i did use coated chipboard and glued the foam helling on it with spray-glue.
- I did not fix the ribs with needles, i glued them onto the helling. After finishing the upper surface i removed the wing-construction with a Japanese-saw. I also fixed the helling-ribs with small drops of wood-glue. They can be cracked off easy from the coated board after finishing the first wing and can be reused for the second.
There is always more than one way, the way in our manual has been choosed cause not anyone wants to buy a new work-board for each plane.
-Put the parts of rib 13 together without glue, check the length and then ad thin CA-glue.
-If you do rubber-rope -starts, please use a Res-rubber set. Our rubbers pull with about 4 kg (8,8 lbs) and my lightweight construction is optimized that way.

Thanks for your constructive feedback

Franz


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