Buddy Davis Sport Fish - Page 4 - RC Groups
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Jul 26, 2016, 03:58 PM
Old Duffer
Garboard's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by chum444
Just to make sure I understand the question, are you interested in keeping the deck beam camber constant as deck beams are installed progressing toward the stem?
Basically, yes.
I know how to develop a given camber on a full sized boat using battens fixed at an angle then sliding this against two points at the outboard ends of the beams marking the apex as it travels across the face of the material, but this seems cumbersome when doing it on a model.
I was curious about your method and how you created your deck beams keeping the camber true going forward.

Thanks
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Jul 26, 2016, 04:31 PM
lots of water; some of it thin
chum444's Avatar
I've seen the batten method. My approach like most of my work depends on "pleasing to the eye". I establish a CL on the hull and begin with the deepest deck beam. After establishing the CL on the deck beam I develop a curve using french curves that looks to start at the right CL height and blends in pleasingly at the shear of the hull. I mark another beam identical to the first and maintain it as a pattern. As The beams progress fwd I remove depth from the beam by cutting off a bit of the bottom (straight) edge after matching the CL of the beam with the CL of the hull and cutting the beam to the required width. I establish the required height by extending a noble wood longitudinal along the CL of the first deck beam/hull CL and shimming the longitudinal at the stem. It's pretty much a trial and error process as to height. Small shims can be added on the beam's bottom edge to bring the height up to level with the first installed beam.

Long winded explanation that is not as complicated as it sounds. I'm sure other members have other techniques that work for them. Each hull presents it's own challenges depending on the hull configuration at the shearline.
Jul 26, 2016, 05:54 PM
Registered User

arc


same as chum444, start with the longest one, use as a pattern. SAVE that pattern as that arc is typically the same as the curve of the cabin roof and curve of the transom
Jul 26, 2016, 06:17 PM
lots of water; some of it thin
chum444's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by finn
same as chum444, start with the longest one, use as a pattern. SAVE that pattern as that arc is typically the same as the curve of the cabin roof and curve of the transom
Thanks finn; very good point. I follow the same practice. Forgot to mention that I only develop the curve on one side of the CL. I cut that curve on a piece of scrap, finish it on a disc sander, and use it as a template on each side of the CL of the first beam. Insures that both P&S sides of the deck beam are symmetrical.
Jul 26, 2016, 07:00 PM
Old Duffer
Garboard's Avatar
Excellent.
Thank you guys. I pretty much do the same thing - "pleasing to the eye" - and establish one side of the CL then duplicate it on the other, I just wanted to see if there was another way to do it. I usually just spring a batten- I'll have to try the french curve aspect. The transom curve and cabin curve are also good rules of thumb!

Thanks again!
Jul 26, 2016, 07:08 PM
lots of water; some of it thin
chum444's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garboard
Excellent.
Thank you guys. I pretty much do the same thing - "pleasing to the eye" - and establish one side of the CL then duplicate it on the other, I just wanted to see if there was another way to do it. I usually just spring a batten- I'll have to try the french curve aspect. The transom curve and cabin curve are also good rules of thumb!

Thanks again!
garboard... you jog my memory. Actually I spring a batten and only use the french curves for the really fine stuff. Finest kind discussion. Thanks.
Sep 06, 2016, 04:36 PM
lots of water; some of it thin
chum444's Avatar
Back to work on the Buddy Davis. Installation of running gear progressing. Johnson motors and their mounts are temporary as I'm not sure they are going to turn sufficient RPM's. Hope to splash it next week to gage speed and handling. Planning on incorporating a V-Tail mixer to improve maneuverability since I will not install a bow thruster.
Last edited by chum444; Sep 06, 2016 at 04:58 PM.
Sep 06, 2016, 04:42 PM
Old Duffer
Garboard's Avatar
Not sure 1.V will be adequate. Sure would be energy efficient though!
Sep 06, 2016, 04:46 PM
mahoganyfan
californiakid's Avatar

Splash Run


Keep us posted Chum. Curios to see how it will run with the Johnsons.
Last edited by californiakid; Sep 06, 2016 at 04:46 PM. Reason: info
Sep 06, 2016, 05:00 PM
lots of water; some of it thin
chum444's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garboard
Not sure 1.V will be adequate. Sure would be energy efficient though!
Thanks GB. After an automatic Windows update the "4" key and several others are non-functional. Thank you Microsoft!!!!
Sep 06, 2016, 06:01 PM
Old Duffer
Garboard's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by chum444
Thanks GB. After an automatic Windows update the "4" key and several others are non-functional. Thank you Microsoft!!!!

I know exactly what you mean. Every time "they" tell me there's an update that will be installed in "X" days I get apprehensive. It seems to me if it's working why "fix" it - especially when you have no control over who or why it's done.
Enjoying this build! Looking forward to the launch results!
Sep 06, 2016, 08:20 PM
Registered User
Band1's Avatar
Hi Bill,
You got a nice one here, I am just wondering if you
Considered going with 2 brushless motors . You know
I built a number of fishing boats both geared and direct
drive with hulls much smaller than yours and they all
got very hot after 15 to 20 minutes.
Doug in my club installed brushless motors in his sportfish
And they never get hot and it's faster then a brush set up.
Just wondering , looking good.
Sep 07, 2016, 06:23 AM
lots of water; some of it thin
chum444's Avatar
[QUOTE=Band1;35663967]Hi Bill,
... just wondering if you
Considered going with 2 brushless motors ...

Paul,
Brushless is plan B. George also recommended that approach. I had the Johnsons so just decided to give them a try. I don't have high expectations for them.
Sep 11, 2016, 03:36 PM
lots of water; some of it thin
chum444's Avatar
Completed running gear installation. Something haywire with the V-tail mixer since motors won't turn over. Servo okay on both esc channels on the mixer. Suggestions welcome.
Sep 11, 2016, 06:10 PM
Registered User
Did you clip one of the power wires to the RX, can't have both ESC's BEC providing power, may burn something out down the road.

In regards to the V-tail, are you able to initialize the ESC's correctly with the V-tail in place? I recall the proboats have a calibration sequence, but it's been a while since i messed with mine.


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