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Did anyone else notice that there are no plastic servo horn protectors for under the wings? They were included in the original Walrus, but not included in the Night Walrus? |
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I got in a couple of flights this evening. I have to admit, this is my first plane of this style, I mostly fly war birds and scale GA stuff. But this plane has turned out to be a lot of fun. I power it up nice and high and see how long I can make the glide back down last. I am flying about 20 minutes and only using about half of the battery.
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I videoed the Un-boxing & everything was there. But still no servo protectors. So I guess they don't include them anymore. I'm looking forward to flying the Night Walrus. I should have been fly one the first week in August. I guess you get what you pay for. 🖖🏽 |
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I'm still not completely satisfied with the way it pitches up at over 50% throttle, although I only have to run it for about a minute to get it up about 600 feet or so, and then I just glide. I'm trying to mix in some down elevator with the throttle to tame it just a bit. Also not completely happy with the porpoising I am experiencing with flaps in the first position. Again, I mixed in some down elevator, but it's not an idea solution. What throw angle should the flaps be set at? On second level of flaps I have them down almost 90 degrees, and I only use this to land. Otherwise the Walrus will glide endlessly and I need 400 feet to bring it to a complete stop. |
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The porpoising is an indication of too much airspeed.
Like you, I climb under power then glide back down and repeat. As I reach altitude I ease off throttle and then hold some elevator until it is about to stall then add flaps and ease off the elevator. This generally gets me a very slow glide back down. If it starts to porpoise, I add a little elevator to slow it down and it will return to a slow, smooth glide. To maintain the slow glide I use the rudder for turns with opposite aileron to hold the plane level. If it banks and noses down it will pick up speed and start to porpoise again. |
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Denny |
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AFAIK, pitching up with flaps set is to be expected, and has to be countered with down elev. |
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No, not zero flaps, flaps in position 1 (as opposed to position 2, which I only use as airbrakes on landing.)
Flew again last night and had much less trouble with porpoising thanks to WVrailfan's tips and suggestions. Here's a quick video a buddy took with an iPhone - this plane makes some nice, graceful aerobatics!
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Flew last night in a calm evening. My friend decided to join me with his Apprentice with LED lights. We decide to do some slow formation flying show. Yes its more fun and challenge too. I had a midair with Apprentice. The canopy came off (luckily the led wire save my canopy). And I was able to recover the Walrus and landed safely. I still not able to master the landing. It glides forever. If I deploy flaps, it balloon up right away even I put 15% down elevator
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Try spoilers instead of flaps, will require adding some up elevator instead of down. It took me a little tweaking at high altitude to get the radio programming tweaked, but I have spoilers for descending quicker without gaining too much speed, flaps for slow speed lift, and crow for landing.
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My battery compartment and misc
Velcro strap was glued directly to the base of the compartment using UHU POR. Also glued on some of that black grippy mat material to prevent the battery from sliding in the strap.
Today I packed up early after a minor crash dislodged the white circular plastic part, the rear-most part of the nose-cone-prop assembly. I did not have a screwdriver to resolve it. Anyway, after putting it back on, I noticed that it wobbles, seems to be warped, so I am leaving it out. Doesn't seem to be entirely necessary. Going without might allow more cooling air (and dirt) into the motor. With the receiver and the mess of wires located in the cavity aft of the 2 servos, the remaining space under the canopy was manageable. The way I connected everything to the receiver, was: Step 1: Get all the wires out of the forward belly hole. (Use servo extensions as needed, I believe I only needed one extension for the ESC throttle signal). Step 2: Connect the wires to the receiver, and stuff the receiver back up thru the belly hole. It helps that my receiver was quite small, so I did not have to cut the fuselage. (DSM2 6CH OrangeRx R610V2 Lite) |
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