Originally Posted by headlessagain

Nice conversion. I should be picking up my 10428A today and would love to fpv through my local woods. How do you mount the fpv and video cameras to avoid vibration. I stuck a Mobius Mini on my 12428 and it's was far too jerky to be useable
Andy

I use hot glue to stick everything and also zip tie for extra holding between camera and pan servo horn and also zip tie the driver figurine (storm trooper) to the body post/pillar. The vibration seems to be improve unlike my previous 10428A build, probabbly vibration damped due to bigger tires or fill in oil into stock shocks works well. Will post video of it in action this weekend.

Build snapshots:

Thanks for the reply. I did just elastic band my Boldclash B03 fpv whoop to the bonnet of my stock Virhuck V01 and at lower speeds on tarmac is was ok.
I have a full size fpv rig mounted on a ply plate that I can move from plane to plane so might just slip that under the roof next to the driver to see how that works. My 10428A arrived yesterday so will give it a quick spin this morning
Andy

Just received my 10428A and love the better quality TX. Initial impression are very good. I took it for a run through my local woods and it handled every climb I could throw at it. It's almost too easy compared with the 12428 and Virhuck V01. One thing it does do is roll over much more readily than the 1:12 scale buggies I have but happy to sacrifice cornering prowess for it's go anywhere ability
The TX looks to be a copy of the Futaba 4PLS4 so I'll be checking out the Futaba manual to see how many of the feature the 10428A one has. I can't imagine any of the firmware and menus will be the same though
http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/4pl-2_4ghz-manual.pdf
I plan to use it to control my 12428 so the model memory function will be useful. The main thing I'll do is set up some expo on the steering as it's a bit lively at speed. Might even look at fitting a 12428 esc/rx unit in my Virhuck V01 although the stock TX is a nice unit when compared with the 12428 stock one

Andy

You'll need to widen/off-set the wheel outwards or use wider tyre, i did cornering test with wider wheels at full speed and it doesn't roll unlike stock. Big if you use bigger diameter wheel you might have front clearance issues. I have to move my wheels frontwards by offset the suspension 'A' arm by putting small spacer to accomodate bigger 2.2 size tyre else it'll rub the chassis. I build mine for agressive hill sprinter.

Serious question does anyone know what parts fit the single speed transmission variant? i want to put a slipper and be BL ready

Took my new 10428A for a run through some local woods within walking distance of my home. It's next to the playing fields where I fly fixed wing rc so I'm pretty lucky to have both so close.

WLtoys 10428A. RC Electric Wild Truck Warrior, 1:10 scale truck (3 min 13 sec)

The recent rain had made some of the area slick and the tyre treads did get packed with earth. The stock tyres are a compromise but that's to be expected at this price point.
Andy

Vrom! vrom! 10428A big brother the K949 in action.

Video:

FPV K949 with ESS-ONE Turbo charged V8 sound - Test Drive (10 min 6 sec)

Another woods run of my stock 10428A

WLtoys 10428A 1/10th sale truck. Woods run (3 min 40 sec)

After the drop there's a wine coming from the pinion/spur gear area so I'll have to strip it down to see whats up
Andy

Found this man made rock crawling site when I last went out for a woods run.

Rock crawling my stock WLToys 10428A (2 min 21 sec)

It's the foundations for a dual carriageway over the River Avon and steep before you add in the boulders cemented into it
Andy

Hi guys and gals
So tonight I stripped down the front end of my 10428A to grease the front diff and fill the front shocks with 30 wt shock oil (that's what the HS suggested) All went according to plan apart from forgetting to connect the drive from the motor
So took off as much as neccessary and re-assembled. I even didn't have any screws left over! However there is now excessive toe out and the wheels are also angled out. I've checked various images of the front end and mines connected up correctly. I'm not aware of altering any of the steering arm or connecting arm lengths so what gives. I had left the wheels on so is it possible that while moving the model around I may have twisted the connecting /steering rods. Apart from that I'm all out of ideas as to the cause.
I also noted that the front drive shaft inner slots are worn where the dog bone would sit when the suspension compressed. A bit surprised at this as the trucks only got a couple of hours on it. It might be that now I've filled the shocks with oil they are better damped and will be less prone to sag in the postion
Pictures of what it looks like
Andy

Originally Posted by headlessagain

Hi guys and gals
So tonight I stripped down the front end of my 10428A to grease the front diff and fill the front shocks with 30 wt shock oil (that's what the HS suggested) All went according to plan apart from forgetting to connect the drive from the motor
So took off as much as neccessary and re-assembled. I even didn't have any screws left over! However there is now excessive toe out and the wheels are also angled out. I've checked various images of the front end and mines connected up correctly. I'm not aware of altering any of the steering arm or connecting arm lengths so what gives. I had left the wheels on so is it possible that while moving the model around I may have twisted the connecting /steering rods. Apart from that I'm all out of ideas as to the cause.
I also noted that the front drive shaft inner slots are worn where the dog bone would sit when the suspension compressed. A bit surprised at this as the trucks only got a couple of hours on it. It might be that now I've filled the shocks with oil they are better damped and will be less prone to sag in the postion
Pictures of what it looks like
Andy

Wow, out drive looks wornout probably due to putting high torque on the wheel. I usually put tamiya metal grease (Ceramic Grease HG) to increase the diff-set lifespan.

Here's a few photos of my front links
Hope it helps,

One thing i have noticed is my dog bones and cups are brown in colour not silver

Yep i grease mine too

Thanks guys. As an ex dirt biker there was always two schools of thought regarding greasing exposed components. The no grease camp would say that mud, sand and grit will stick to the grease and accelerate the wear whereas the grease camp would say that all exposed metal to metal componenets need lubrication. I guess I went for the former option
What's the best grease to use on those parts and should it also be applied to the differential access cups https://www.banggood.com/Wltoys-110-...r_warehouse=CN
I can't find many parts for the 10428's including the front diff parts. I've tried AliExpress,Ebay,Banggood and Gearbest. Anyone have a source?
Andy

Look for wltoys k949 parts
On Aliexpress
It's the same truck

For the grease i use on dog bones is 70% molybdenum disulfide grease
It's from my air rifles abit go's a long way and gets everywhere lol

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/70-MOLYBD...item23752e7f82

Originally Posted by ThunderBruiser

Serious question does anyone know what parts fit the single speed transmission variant? i want to put a slipper and be BL ready

Literally no-one?