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They seem to be taking though. I wouldn't think the 3300kv would have problems though on 4s ,thought it was just the 4000kv. Just flew the 4000kv on 3s with 3030x3 and they came down realistic temp after 2 mins of flight. Though it was 8pm and only about 82f out or so and not the daytime 98f so that might of helped. I did notice the bell on the f20 is much fatter than the emax,that'll probably help with the heat a little I'd imagine. Guess I don't care if the emax jump up to 140f in 30s as long as they keep taking it. Just one of those things that like to run hot like a French hooker I suppose 
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My RS1306 4000kv motors ran little hot but acceptable with 2mins aggressive flying + flips
Setup Armattan SCX140 Betaflight 2.7.1 (2KHz loop) RS1306 4000KV Dys XM20A one shot, Dal: 3045 Tri Camera: HS1177 battery: 4s, 45C, 61g, 500mah AUW 190g (250-260g with battery) Must keep the weight around 250g range for 130 setup + your P & D might be too high. Vincent |
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Lb 20@ pro multishot Piko blx running 4K/2k And tried 3045x3 dal and then rotorx 3040x3 that are half the weight of those ,then 3030 hq and lastly furious fpv 3030x3 3s600mah/4s 600mah Cs1563 micro camera and normal size vtx. I thought it was p and d and dropped them both on pitch ,roll and yaw a good amount and it didn't effect the temp at all. Yesterday with 3030x3 on 3s I flew 2 mins and that's the first time they weren't 135f. Pretty crappy cause I didn't wanna get em to run 4s. I have though run em on 4s at the field and just let em get hot and they seemed to take it so that just will be the route I go. If they cook themselves there are many more nice motors coming out about everyday so won't be hard to find a new set. I think for them to stay 110f like a normal motor if have to run 3025 on 3s and float around like a butterfly,wait a minute..... 
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EMAX RS1306-3300KV Static Thrust Tests 3" & 4" props
I didn't get a 4000KV motor for testing, here's the 3300KV version.
The 4000KV should make more thrust but will need more Amps. Keep in mind these are results for static condition, once moving thru air thrust and Amps will be lower, perhaps around 25% lower Amps.
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A lot of us are trying to figure out why motors are getting scolding hot after very short flight while properly propped on light builds and even getting hot on 3s but 4s hitting 130f in 60 seconds with a 3045x3 prop on a 220g w/ lipo build. This is my experience with the 4000kv and others have said the same with 3300 and 4000kv. I will try to source a test motor of each and do a temp check to show how these motors get way too hot for no apparent reason. Thanks for the video of the thrust though,seems there is more info out there of cheap clone knockoffs than on some motors that come from quality companies. |
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I run the rs2205 bigger brother of these on many of my quads. I was considering running these on an upcoming build.
I was thinking of running 3300kv on 4s or 4000kv on 3s. Anybody know hoe the power compares between these 2 configurations? 3s batteries are lighter and cheaper so I was originally leaning towards the 4000kv. I wanted to build up a stingerbee 120mm frame. I do know that these motors run n52 magnets, which are not high temperature rated. My understanding of this is that if you run too hot, say 150f or around abouts and up the magnets demagnitize a bit and your kv will keep going higher. Basically not a motor you ever want to run hot. Not a problem on the big brother because the active cooling really helps. |
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I am running the 4000kv motors on 4S and they are getting very hot for me as well. I've tried DYS 3030x3 and RotorX 3040x4 props and they get very hot from both. This is on a SCX-140 AUW ~250g.
I have looked at BB logs and gyro and motor traces are very clean, so I don't think this is a tuning issue. I have tried different loop times on the FC from 8k/8k to 8k/1k on betaflight 2.9.1. I have tried lowering the filter values significantly. Nothing seems to stop the heat :/. I'm beginning to suspect that these triple blades are over propping the 4000kv on 4S. @LitterBug, what is your all up weight? What ESCs? Are you using anything but default settings? What BLHeli version? |
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Cheers! LitterBug |
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Last edited by LitterBug; Aug 09, 2016 at 12:17 PM.
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I'm using 600mah and really wanting to use 850 4s but think the extra weight won't do any good. Seems like builds have to be bare minimum with these motors. Though they do run warmer than others they take it and don't burn up,or at least I havnt heard of it happening. I believe my quad is 125g and the 4s 600 would make it like 180 or so. Due to the piko being tiny and allowing no need of pdb it works awesome for a light builds. You might wanna put that bad boy on a diet if you have temps hitting over 130f. My build with 3030hq is actually pretty powerful and stay at very acceptable temps. It's weird that's what it takes to keep these motors running cool since I have other 1306 that could lug a 180 around on 4s and stay cool I'm almost positive. They actually have lugged around a 170 with 1500mah 4s 65c and that's what I would fly on a reg and they'd come down cool. Anyone had a red bottom mini go die on em yet? |
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Was pushing mine hard last night on my "heavy" setup and still running good. I have been looking for smaller 4S batteries. 1050 was about the smallest easily available at the time I started all this. I have some 3S 850s to try out sometime too. Will probably take those out next time for comparison.
Cheers! LitterBug |
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I'm running a set of the Emax RS1306 3300KV's on my Aramattan MRP130, using LB20APro's MultiShot, 8K/8K BF latest version with my X-Racer F303 V3.1 FC. Running DAl 3045 tri's and Even with the 3300KV's my motors are Scary hot on even a 3S!!!! What the!! I'm afraid to even try 4S! I've tried everything in BetaFlight to bring down the temps, but nothing. My ESCs are running cool as a kitten, but these motors feel like they're going to ignite they're so hot. Otherwise they perform great... I hope they can handle it over time, but I don't see how that's possible.
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3040 hq were alright as well on 4s but they did run warm but they take it and nothing was hurt by it, Think we are just dealing with hot running motors based on how they are wound or some other part of their design |
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EMAX 1306 3300's KICK A$$
So after updating my PID's, reducing my Motor_Timing to Med_High, and upgrading to 4S I am having MUCH better results. I blazed through 4 x 4S packs of various current capacities and made sure to absolutely throttle-max the entire time. I figured what the hell! If I'm gonna' smoke these babies let's do it in style. haha.. Well, guess what, after each bout of extreme flying I felt the ESC's and motors and they were..... slightly hotter than it was comfortable to keep my finger on, but basically the exact same as when I was hovering with 3S packs the past couple days. Yep, these motors are engineered for speed folks. That's the only way I can describe what I'm experiencing. This is happening with each of my 4 motors, so it's not some fluke here. These motors are considerably faster than my DYS 4000KV's on the same packs.. You heard that right... Here's the best part too: my packs lasted the same 4 minutes on average. These Emax RS1306 3300's are my new favorite. :-)
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So since complaining about the excess heat a few weeks ago I have since put 15+ 4s packs in through my build. Holy moly this thing is a jet. running a 130mm MRM SCYTHE frame with gemfan 3035x4 (have tried several different props while trying to deal with the heat and these ended up feeling the best. No hard data on that, just a great fpv flight experience) I feel like the harder I fly this thing the cooler the motors come down. I would not recommend using dalprop 3045x3 though. I get great performance on them but unable to touch motors due to the heat after using them.
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