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Jun 08, 2016, 08:17 AM
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KRProton's Avatar
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Oops...I forgot to take a picture of the D16 fuse next to the D06 fuse.

Tonight I promise!

Tim
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Jun 09, 2016, 06:02 AM
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Hi ,

Fuselage Picture
D06 vs. D16 and my old Batleth smal Fuselage .


Regards marcel
Jun 09, 2016, 07:47 AM
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Marcel!!!

Nice to see you!

I was flying my Dominator with your propeller (21mm hub) about 30 minutes ago!

Tim
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Jun 09, 2016, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy
Interesting on the foam-core wing. I know back in the days, a few guys made their wings with solid cores for added stiffness and it made a huge difference compared to the hollow, glass skinned D-99. .
Ya, I can see strength would be improved. Both bending & probably torsional too. Torsion flex is bad it adversely affects AOA by flexing in that axis.

More what I was wondering out loud (just a personal theory) is high speed + high G turns is putting a lot of aerodynamic suction pressure on upper surface & (lesser degree) positive pressure on lower surface. What keeps the airfoil shell conformed from the mold setting is basically the skin sandwich strength in between the internal hard points (the leading edge spooge, spar, aileron closeout). But I could almost visualize some 'gas bagging' effect. It wouldn't take very much skin distortion to become a different airfoil in real life turn-mode than what the designer envisioned. The thinner the airfoil, the larger the distortion impact. An internal core connecting the open bay skins could mitigate this. I have no proof, just a thought. Maybe someone can spray their wing with that stress lacquer, crank some turns & see where it crackles

Sorry for the ramble, back to building.
Jun 09, 2016, 02:50 PM
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Plainly said (if I understand correctly),

your theory is that the foam core stabilizes the airfoil (not to mention probably adds strength - not the foam itself, but by stabilizing the structural skin).

Well, I just need to get mine finished and airborne!

Tim
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Jun 10, 2016, 08:34 AM
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In Q40 models and some Q-500 models standard ribs are used to keep the skins from doing what Peter suggests.

DK
Jun 16, 2016, 09:53 PM
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I'm not done with the fuselage yet, but pretty much have everything there figured out. I was anxious to see what's inside the wing and get the aileron mounts figured out, so I got to cutting into the wing. I made a hatch opening template sized for KST X08 servos (that I'm also using in my BBR Dominators), then positioned the template over the circular cutouts for the hatch where the wires are embedded in the foam.

Pay attention here: It just so happened that I positioned my hatches so the front edge was EXACTLY aligned with the back of the spar - I'm glad the hatches weren't any farther forward, else I may have cut into the spar. I'll provide accurate dimensions for positioning of the hatches tomorrow. (Maybe I can even post a template!)

I first cut the hatch just under the skin with a Dremel 1/16" grout cutter. I used a shop-vac often to remove the dust and fibers. I then lifted off the skin with an X-Acto. I was going to chip away at the foam, but that stuff is pretty dense! It's not just Styrofoam!

I used a brass tube sharpened on the end to cut through the foam down to the top wing skin, then rocked the tube back-and-forth to break free most of the foam. I then used an X-Acto chisel to scrape away the foam, then proceeded to sanding all the while trying to avoid cutting the servo wires!

Somewhere in there I exchanged the 1/16" grout cutter for a 1/8" grout cutter to clean up the edges of the opening, then sanded with a stick with sandpaper glued to it to clean up the opening even more.

In the end the job was pretty easy and a perfect challenge for me!

Next I'll cut the other hatch, then look at installing the servos.

Tim
Last edited by KRProton; Jun 17, 2016 at 02:31 PM.
Jun 17, 2016, 07:58 AM
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Attached is an image depicting the location of the spar in the aileron hatch area. Were I to build another D16 I would move the hatch nearer the trailing edge about 3mm to ensure the hatch opening doesn't encroach on the spar.

Later I'll post a template with the correct location of the opening.

Tim
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Jun 17, 2016, 08:56 AM
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savneo's Avatar
Valuable info as there is very little on the web for this new plane.
Jun 17, 2016, 04:28 PM
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Sure thing savneo!

I'll keep the posts and images coming as I proceed. Soon I'll be on it full-time and will progress much faster!

Tim
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Jun 27, 2016, 06:43 AM
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D16 models after a few months of use


Hi all, just registered as I thought I could add to the topic!

We have been using the d16s for a bit of time now. Tims photos above certainly show the differences in size compared to the d06. The models size has helped with quite a few things but balencing problems were completely opposite to the older model. Because of the longer nose make sure you push everything towards the rear especially if using a heavier geared setup.

The first noticeable difference when flying was the models stability and tracking. I have had to spend no time with tip weights or model trimming. The new moulds must be perfect!! We also believe that the d16 just isn't as fast as the d06 but much easier to hold on a tight course.

The packs to use in this model are the opti power 5s1800 ultras as they fit perfectly with room on top for the ail leads/connectors and room on the side for ballast

I personally have set the cog at 52mm as this make the model sit and hold the bank nicely, with good response on the ele set at3mm movement. The other reason for going slightly more rearward is that with any further forward I think you would struggle to land such a slippery model as this one glides on and on ............ And on ..... And on. Make sure you set as much spoiler as you can get away with,
you have been warned!!

The build was very straight forward and managed to get the second model built within 2 evenings. The tricky part is planning the layout. I used jb weld with most things apart from the aileron servos. The servo seats in the wing are 7mm deep and I found the kst08 have fitted and worked well, any thinker servos and you will have to make a deeper servo cover. With the kst servos I have just used a think piece of carbon to cover them.

Another warning
Make sure you only use the v3 batch of kst x08's as they had fundamental issues with the earlier types. A good friend of mine had one go on fire in his hands!! Have alook on line. The v3s have a new designed box and have a signed qc sticker on them

I will try and attach some pics

We are getting very similar results from the new compared to the old in times but the improvement of holding lines is very significant. The model handles the stresses well and I have yet to see the slight rippling on the top of the wing like the older model
Jun 27, 2016, 08:15 AM
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Video down the field of just testing run time


https://www.facebook.com/david.morde...54261414369533
Jun 27, 2016, 08:35 AM
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Thanks for the report and the images Dave!

Bruce Brown has a couple flights on his D16 and I am close behind. Mine is back on the top of the list on my workbench and hope to get it flying next week.

I'll be using a geared Mega motor with BBR Saw prop.

Yes, the KSTX08 servos (V3 as you specified) fit well and just barely peak through the bottom wing skin.

Tim
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Jun 27, 2016, 08:59 PM
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Wow.. that is GORGEOUS! Always liked Sergey's airplanes.
Jun 30, 2016, 05:44 AM
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More progress on my D16.

Painted fuse added only 5g. Began in the morning with a white base coat on the nose, immediately followed by the fluorescent red, then after work same day light wet-sanding, masking, then the black. Wet-sanding that evening, then the clear the following morning. So that's about a 24-hour paint job with automotive paint!

In the wing, I'm using the Corona S.Bus decoder. That way I can use the tiny Futaba R6303 receiver:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCHXE&P=ML

Futaba S.Bus with the SBD-1 decoder (17 min 10 sec)


Tim
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